Introduction
Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer ou mettre à jour votre disque dur.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Si vous utilisez la cale de maintien en carton iFixit, suivez ces instructions d'assemblage pour l'assembler.
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Avant de commencer votre réparation iMac : Débranchez l'ordinateur et appuyez sur le bouton de marche pendant dix secondes, afin de décharger les condensateurs de l'alimentation.
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En partant de la gauche de l'écran, près du bouton de marche, insérez l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le boîtier arrière.
Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.
As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): Changer les bandes adhésives de l'iMac Intel 21,5'' EMC 2544
This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.
You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).
Merci pour ce conseil
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Servez-vous de l'outil comme d'une roulette à pizza, en suivant le pourtour de l'iMac, de manière à effectuer une découpe au centre de la mousse adhésive.
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Poussez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté gauche de l'écran.
If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.
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Continuez tout au long du bord supérieur de l'écran.
In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?
Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!
P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.
P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.
And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.
If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:
Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.
Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.
Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.
omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...
now fan runs like crazy...
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Pour finir, poussez l'outil le long du côté droit de l'écran, vers le bas.
Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.
Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.
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En partant de l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac, insérez une carte en plastique entre l'écran et le châssis.
this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………
I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.
I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.
@ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.
Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics
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Tournez doucement la carte sur le côté pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le châssis.
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Déplacez la carte lentement en veillant à ne pas exercer une pression excessive sur la vitre de l'écran. Un espace d'environ 0,6 cm est suffisant.
This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.
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Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran, pour découper le reste de mousse adhésive dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac.
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Tout en maintenant l'écran d'une main, débranchez sa nappe d'alimentation de l'autre main.
I had a small flight light ready so I could see. Follow the directions - don’t blindly pull.
Head lamp gives you the best hands free view!
bstaud - The display power cable has two squeezable levers on each end of the cable’s width.
Squeeze the left lever with your thumb while you simultaneously squeeze the right lever with your
index finger, and gently pull the cable straight back and out, and the cable comes out very easily.
When reassembling, make sure you get a “click” confirmation that both the levers have locked AND the pins have seated on this connector. I was treated to a black screen upon startup, and had to re-cut my newly installed adhesive strips to get back in to firm up this connection. Better would be power up with the bottom adhesive in place, screen resting in place and held on top with blue painter tape to confirm connections, THEN pull off screen-side adhesive tape covers for final re-bonding.
Can someone post a link to actually purchase these cables?
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À l'aide de la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), basculez vers le haut le clapet de retenue métallique de la nappe de données de l'écran.
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Avec précaution, débranchez la nappe de données de l'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Sure could use a magnified picture of this connector and socket, especially the first time you go in. And it is the most critical step of the whole operation — bung it up and we’re toast.
Hi bstaud! If you hover over the image you can click on the magnifying glass and get a large image of any guide photo. Hope that helps!
To clarify, the connector pulls out in the plane of the logic card, not perpendicular.
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Relevez l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit presque vertical.
Where can I find a replacement display for my iMac?
iFixit has listings for replacements. Go to the Parts section
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Saisissez la petite languette située à l'extrémité de l'une des bandes adhésives en bas de l'écran et tirez-la vers le haut de l'iMac pour la décoller.
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Répétez cette étape pour décoller l'autre bande adhésive.
cutting through the adhesive is unnecessary if it's not been opened before (outside of an apple store) there will be a tab at the end of each VHB strip that you can use to simply pull the vhb strips off.
YES, exactly the same here. more but more simple.
To save a few steps and a bit of time, if you have a helper, they can hold the display at a 90° angle while you unscrew the brackets and remove/replace the hard drive rather than remove the display entirely. Also reduces the likelihood of damaging the display as you remove and handle it.
The proper way to remove the display according to the Macintosh tech manual and videos is as Rory McKenna and Lucio Alves have learned is to pull the tab at the end of each VHB strip until it is off.
This worked great! look for small left over adhesive on either edge of the bottom of the screen and pull each one towards the center. Screen assembly removes after that with no fuss.
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Retirez les vis suivantes par lesquelles le support du disque dur est fixé au boîtier arrière :
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Deux vis Torx T10 21 mm du support gauche du disque dur.
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Une vis Torx T10 9 mm.
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Une vis Torx T10 27 mm.
Pay attention to this photo and where the fan is. It is 180° from where the previous step shows it is oriented to you.
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Soulevez le disque dur par le bord le plus proche de la carte mère et sortez-le doucement de son emplacement.
The newer drives have rubber ends and an adhesive side, be careful removing them if replacing the drive and be sure they are securely pushed back into the holder
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Déconnectez le câble d'alimentation et de données SATA en écartant délicatement son grand connecteur en plastique du disque dur avec une spatule.
When reconnecting the SATA cable, there is nothing to make the connector hold still, and it is hard to reach, so it took several tries. I ended up taking off the rubber baby buggy bumpers to get more room, and then jamming them back on after getting the SATA connector snugged up.
If by rubber baby buggy bumper, you mean left speaker, then yes, I agree. Reinstall the hard drive before the left speaker.
Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!
We solved this by removing the hard drive tray screw, then inserting the cable into the SATA hard drive. Then hold the hard drive a bit out of the way to insert the 7.3mm hard drive tray screw.
Agree with this method, found it an impossible task to reconnect the SATA connector until removed the tray screw, then it was relatively easy to reconnect and then replace the tray screw.
Also agree with this method!
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Retirez l'ensemble disque dur de l'iMac.
When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.
Thanks! I, too, had a hard time reconnecting the SATA cable.
I found this helpful too!
Anwar -
I did loosen the speaker so I could get a tool behind the SATA cable to push it on to the SSD drive. Otherwise hard to align cable.
I found the easiest way to connect the SATA cable was to not screw the plastic hard drive tray down until you plug the drive in. That way you can easily push the connector in and due to the cable you’ve got some wiggle room. You can position the tray then just lift one end of the drive up and secure the screw. Then just push the drive down.
This was the step that I had the most trouble with. I’m used to replacing a hard drive in a MacBook Pro, where the “plug” that you plug the drive into is a rigid thing that you can firmly press the hard drive into.
With the iMac, the plug is situated on the end of a non-rigid cord, so the plug moves back when you try to snap a drive into it. Also, those two rubber gasket things that you adhere to the side of the drive really make it difficult to maneuver the now-overly-chubby drive towards the plug.
After must frustration/concern, what I ended up doing was temporarily removing the rubber gasket things, using the “spudger” as kind of a lever behind the “plug on a cord” so that it didn’t move as much, and then pushed the gasket-less SSD into the plug.
Once I got it connected, I put the rubber gaskets back on the sides of the SSD and kind of coaxed it down into place, using the pointy end of the spudger to get the chubby corner pieces to “sit” correctly in the rigid plastic tray that the SSD kind of rests in.
From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!
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Retirez les protections caoutchouc du disque dur, des deux cotés du disque dur (haut et bas).
Hi, is it important to use a HDD as replacement/upgrade from the same manufacturer like it is on older iMacs with 3,5" HDD? I'm thinking of the thermal sensor (which isn't there in this case) and the hispeed fans issue. Any hints appreciated :)
there is a cable adapter you can buy with an inline thermal sensor on it to attach to the outside of the drive
Dan -
I was under the impressoin that this model, with it’s 2.5” drive, had no extra thermal issues like other older iMacs. Meaning you could just pop any other SATA 2.5” drive in there and the fans would operate normally.
Other comments seem to imply this is not the case? I’ve never seen sensors or adapters for this model of Mac?
You are correct, John. Per OWC Tech support, no thermal sensor cable needed for the 2.5” HDD, SDD on this 21.5” iMac.
So. i do not need to install a temp sensor when upgrading to a SSD drive? The guy at a service repair stated that I did need to. SO. im confused. I ordered one from ifixit
Rdatlnt1 -
It’s worth noting you may loosen q the left air Ram (plastic part) by removing the torx screws to gain extra access to the SATA cables if required.
Does any formatting need to be done with the drive before installing? Or it’s a plug and go and MacOS will prompt the install?
any recommendations for the adhesive to use when re attaching the screen?
there are “adhesive-strips” that you can buy from the ifixit-store
+1 any recommendations for the adhesive to reattach the screen?
My iMac 2013 21inch is a factory upgraded SSD, can I have if they still have SATA cable and the rubber surrounding the HDD/SSD ? I want a bigger SSD but don’t want to touch the PCIe. Thanks
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
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40 commentaires
Super awesome instructions, As always easy to follow, swapped out he drive pretty quick. makes me miss the magnets for sure.
Great instructions, I chose to purchase the adhesive strips from Ifixit and they worked great, much easier than trying to shape your own plus they stick really well.
Great instructions. Is it possible to replace HD with a SSD Samsung EVO ?
thanks
I believe the EVO is what I used in my iMac at home, but it was a while ago and I honestly do not remember for certain. In my experience though you can replace an HDD with pretty much any SSD that meets your capacity requirements. Some have better specs than others, but ~any~ SSD is going to have alarmingly better performance than an HDD. I have totally revitalized three computers that would otherwise have been put out to pasture, by the simple act of replacing the hard drive with an SSD. Working on an iMac is a bit more daunting than many others, but following these instructions, and being very "Zen" about it, taking your time, having the tools and materials laid out and ready at hand, being focused and not rushed, should result in a great upgrade, and a computer better than new.
So on this model we don't need to worry about a thermal sensor or the fan going into overdrive after swapping the drive?
That's is correct :)
Great guide. One thing I did on the reassembly was to loosen the speaker next to the drive bay so that I could get my fat fingers in to push the SATA connector onto the new drive.
Good job!
Step 21 is a little nerve wracking … however, if you look closely, each corner had a small section of tape that looked like a starter strip. If you pull that up and then, once loosened, pull toward you - the entire strip of tape will come off making the display removal very simple.
Very apprehensive at first when taking on upgrading my iMac 21.5” Late 2013 Hard Drive with a Samsung Evo 860 SSD. Followed this hard drive replacement/ upgrade guide, plus the ‘clone and existing drive’ and ‘how to re-apply your iMac display’ and had it done with 2 hours. Fantastic guides, easy to follow and carry out. Thank you.
Upgraded my 2014 iMac to an SSD and Its so much easier than I thought it would be. From start to finish the teardown was complete in about 30 min. The wheel and cards worked perfectly and the adhesive was easy to use. I like tearing this one down better than the older iMac. No screws or magnets to deal with.
Hi, dont you need to replace / substitute the thermal sensor? thanks
No, there's no need on this model!
Awesome.. was about to upgrade my ram but used SSD as external and seems fast.. going to follow the instruction and replace with Samsung Evo 860
Would you mind linking me to the specific Samsung Evo 860 you used? I think I’m going to attempt this switch, and a RAM upgrade too, but I don’t want to get the wrong model!
Thanks
unscrewing the speaker to shift out of the way makes plugging in the new hard drive much easier.
Very good guide. Just what i needed
2013 iMac. What if you replaced it with an SSD? Anything extra needed?
The hardest part was replacing the adhesive. I wish there was a link for those instructions. Also, I would like to see links for instructions on the software side- how to get the computer working again. Thanks
I am upgrading my Imac 27inch 2013 to a ssd drive. Do I need to buy the sensor lead. Been reading somewhere and I dont need to buy the sensor lead as its only for older Imac’s.
Are the screen suctions cups no longer an option for repairing iMacs? I’ve done older ones that had the outer glass held in with magnets. They were easy to remove. I can’t believe there were 18 steps on this iMac with using the wheel and the cars before you could lift the screen. Getting intimidated.
Tutoriel avec descriptions vraiment minutieuses. Pour ma part, j’ai utilisé une roulette ordinaire du commerce (Rotary Cutter Ø45 mm) dont la lame ne dépasse que de 5-6 mm la butée et des écarteurs découpés dans un plat de couverture GBC (épaisseur 0.8 mm) en leur donnant une forme plus longue que le côté d’une carte de crédit. En plus, avec un “hot air gun” j’ai chauffé avec précaution le bord de l’écran pour ramollir le joint. Tout a bien fonctionné.
bonjour,
La colle (autocollant double face) est répartie uniformément tout autour de l’écran.
Le pouvoir collant est lié à la surface de colle (le périmètre autour de l’écran).
L’intérêt et objet de la coupe latérale (avec un objet) est qu’il vient séparer la “colle” physiquement, presque sans aucun effort (et correspond à la perpendiculaire du pouvoir collant (force et intérêt recherché par la pose de la colle)).
L’opération consiste donc à couper et lever (désolidariser) légèrement l’écran de la structure aluminium afin que la colle ne reprenne pas.
L’usage de la chaleur va faire perdre le pouvoir collant du scotch.
Problème : la chauffe des éléments comporte des risques, aussi je ne recommande pas tellement l’air chaud ici (difficile à maitriser si pas d’outils adapté = mesure température).
A vous de voir le bénéfice risque.
Le pb est que souvent la manipulation est exécutée par une personne pour la première fois, et plus jamais ensuite.
Donc le processus d’apprentissage manuelle est limitée (coup de main).
Doing this and not using an actual Apple hard drive will not turn out well in the end. A thermal sensor is needed to control the fan speed which I believe the fan is regulated if you have an actual apple HD. OWC sales the thermal sensors but they have none for the late 2012 - 21.5, the 27inch they do have it.
Hello I have Time Capsule backup and iMac is running Catalina. How can I re install the operating system in the new SSD after this disk replacement? Thanks a lot.
Very easy process, just takes a little patience. I can highly recommend the bundle set they do with Hard drive etc as this helped no end and also gives you new adhesive tape for re sealing the device which you will need. Very happy and glad to get rid of that awful 5400RPM hard drive. This iMac is now 7 years old and now out performs my 2019 i5 Surface Book 2 for boot up speed.
A little intimidating at first, but turned out well, was simple to follow with no issues along the way. Very satisfied with the outcome and the mac is useable again. Performance uplift is huge and most of all I can get many more years out of the device.
I didnt see a temperature sensor needed in the instructions when replacing the HD with an SSD in the 21.5” imac as it shows in the 27” imacs. Is it not needed in the 21.5” ?
After getting an estimate over $1000 from the local Apple store, I purchased the 1Tb Crucial SSD kit. The instructions were very good, the tools and parts supplied perfect. While I had the drive out I removed the fan and blew 7 years of dust out of the heatsink and fan. Used online recovery and Time Machine to transfer the OS and data to the new drive. Speed difference is like night and day - approx 15 seconds from power on to logon prompt. The case and cable for the old drive is icing on the cake.
My iFixIt "iMac Intel 21.5# SSD Upgrade Bundle / Crucial 500GB / USB 3.0 Metal Drive Enclosure..." Items #173042-13 kit came with some extra parts not described in any parts list or instructions for either the Fixit kit or Crucial SSD drive:
1) A black plastic frame, the same size as the ssd drive
2) A round foam disc, approx 1"x 1/8 inch, with peel-able adhesive
3) 4 tiny black phillips head screws
And going the other way, the included bit driver with three bits only contained two bits.
Any ideas?
The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.
roberttrevellyan - Réponse
Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?
Dan - Réponse
Here are a couple tips from me:
1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.
2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.
jerrid_foiles - Réponse
Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!
Sam Fung - Réponse
“All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.
Chris Hughes - Réponse
There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.
Phil Tesone - Réponse
I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.
Ernst - Réponse
While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.
Ernst - Réponse
Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.
Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.
Where are the sensitive parts?
Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.
Froggy Manny - Réponse