Introduction
Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le dissipateur thermique d'une console de jeux Nintendo Switch.
La Switch utilise des vis JIS, mais vous pouvez utiliser un tournevis cruciforme en cas de besoin. Faites très attention à ne pas abîmer les vis. Les embouts cruciformes d'iFixit sont conçus pour être compatibles avec les vis de type JIS.
Remarque : lorsque vous retirez la plaque de protection, vous devrez remplacer la pâte thermique entre la plaque et le dissipateur thermique. Comme de la pâte thermique normale n’est pas conçue pour combler de grands espaces, la pâte thermique de remplacement la plus proche est la pâte thermique visqueuse K5 Pro. Vous aurez cependant besoin d'une pâte thermique de remplacement normale pour le processeur.
Remarque : ce tuto et la pièce que nous vendons sont compatibles avec le modèle Nintendo Switch original sorti en 2017, ainsi qu’avec le nouveau modèle sorti en 2019 (numéros de modèle respectifs HAC-001 et HAC -001(-01)).
-
-
Appuyez sur le petit bouton rond à l'arrière du Joy-Con et maintenez-le enfoncé.
-
Pendant que vous maintenez le bouton enfoncé, faites glisser le Joy-Con vers le haut.
-
-
-
Continuez à faire glisser le Joy-Con vers le haut jusqu'à ce qu'il soit complètement retiré de la console.
-
-
-
Utilisez un tournevis Y00 pour dévisser les quatre vis de 6,3 mm qui fixent la coque arrière.
-
-
-
Utilisez un tournevis JIS #000, ou un tournevis iFixit officiel PH 000, pour retirer les vis suivantes qui fixent la coque arrière :
-
Une vis de 2,5 mm sur le bord supérieur de l'appareil
-
Deux vis de 2,5 mm sur le bord inférieur de l'appareil
Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?
Thanks
The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.
I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…
We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked
Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…
this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it
PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.
One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension
-
-
-
Utilisez un tournevis JIS #000, ou un tournevis officiel iFixit PH 0000, pour retirer les deux vis centrales de 3,8 mm sur les côtés de l'appareil (une de chaque côté).
I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?
Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!
Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.
What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000
-
-
-
-
Ouvrez le rabat du lecteur de carte de jeu.
-
Soulevez la coque arrière depuis le bas de l'appareil et retirez-la.
How to remove micro SD port?
Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.
-
-
-
Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis iFixit PH 000 pour retirer la vis de 3,1 mm qui fixe le lecteur de carte micro SD.
-
-
-
Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour soulever le lecteur de carte microSD de l'appareil afin de le déconnecter et de le retirer.
Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.
if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.
Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!
Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.
I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks
Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!
The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.
The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.
I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!
My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!
Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.
I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!
I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!
Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit
Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow
Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!
This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.
For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…
I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.
-
-
-
Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les six vis de 3 mm qui fixent la plaque de protection.
Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.
Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…
nin10doh -
-
-
-
Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour décoller le morceau de mousse sur le bord supérieur de l'appareil, près de la sortie d'air du ventilateur.
My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?
It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.
My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.
-
-
-
Insérez une spatule (spudger) sous la plaque de protection, le long du bord de l'appareil.
-
Soulevez la plaque de protection et ôtez-la de la console.
How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?
Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..
MacTek -
When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?
I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound
No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.
MacTek -
Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.
Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.
-
-
-
Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut et le sortir de sa prise sur la carte mère.
-
-
-
Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les 3 vis de 3 mm qui fixent le dissipateur thermique à la carte mère.
-
-
-
Utiliser le bout plat d'une spatule ou vos doigts pour retirer délicatement la mousse qui adhère légèrement au ventilateur.
-
Insérez la pointe d’une spatule sous la partie de la mousse qui n’est pas collée contre quoi que ce soit.
-
Appuyez sur le dessus de la mousse avec votre doigt pour la maintenir en place.
-
Roulez la pointe de la spatule sous la mousse jusqu’à l’autre extrémité de la mousse, pour la décoller. Appuyez sur le dessus de la mousse avec votre doigt pour la maintenir en place.
Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?
-
-
-
Utilisez un outil en plastique ou vos doigts pour soulever le dissipateur thermique et le séparer de la carte mère.
where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?
They may sell it in the ifixit store.
(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?
(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!
UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:
1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.
2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.
Good luck!
Travis -
you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put
just clean it afterwards
K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.
Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.
Cerus98 -
i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine
-
Comparez votre pièce de remplacement avec la pièce d'origine, vous pourriez avoir besoin de transférer certaines pièces comme des bandes adhésives sur la pièce neuve avant le remontage.
Pour remonter votre console, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou la section Nintendo sur notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.
Comparez votre pièce de remplacement avec la pièce d'origine, vous pourriez avoir besoin de transférer certaines pièces comme des bandes adhésives sur la pièce neuve avant le remontage.
Pour remonter votre console, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou la section Nintendo sur notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
31 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
100%
Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›
4 commentaires
I couldn’t even get past the first step because my screws were in so tight I made them threadbare trying to get them out. I did use the iFixit toolkit so I was using the right head but taking the screws out is not as easy as demonstrated lol
same mines are stripped
You just need a good thermal paste
