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Introduction
Retirez le dissipateur thermique pour appliquer [produit | IF179-010 | meilleure pâte thermique].
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Avec une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur du ventilateur pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:
Broke it as well the picture is very misleading.
Local mobile repair shop soldered it back for me.. but it cost me twice as much as fan I ordered from china. They told me to use two tools in the future.. one to keep the edge down and other to gauge gently from under the cables...
Bade -
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
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Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise.
On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du subwoofer et du haut-parleur droite pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.
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Tirez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra vers le lecteur optique pour le déconnecter de la carte mère.
As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.
Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.
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Avec votre ongle ou la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe clavier.
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Avec votre spatule, faites glisser la nappe du clavier hors de sa prise.
Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.
Toothpicks did the trick, thanks
As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.
Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!
Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.
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Décollez le petit morceau de bande adhésive noire sur la prise de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.
Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.
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Avec votre spatule, faites glisser la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier hors de sa prise.
Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.
I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in
A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du voyant de la batterie pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, décollez le microphone de la bande adhésive le fixant au boîtier supérieur.
on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.
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Saisissez la carte mère par le côté gauche et soulevez-la jusqu'à ce que les ports s'écartent du bord du boîtier supérieur.
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Éloignez la carte mère du bord du boîtier supérieur et retirez-la en évitant que la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) ne reste accrochée.
Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.
mid 2012: Careful of the left speaker (on your right because unit is upside down). Gently remove with spudger tool before removing logic board and when reinstalling press firmly back into place with spudger. Install speaker after putting logic board in place but before installing screws.
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Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 8,5 mm fixant le dissipateur thermique sur la carte mère.
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Soulevez doucement le dissipateur thermique de la carte mère.
As the pic in step 22 reveals, the Apple factories in Asia apply a huge amount of thermal heat sink paste goop to the top surface of the processors. The need for a special primer on this reapplication procedure (other than the removal and cleaning of the old paste from the processors' surfaces) is over-rated.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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5 commentaires
I enjoyed the process and the fixit guides are great. But I had one potentially fatal issue with the heat sink replacement guide (to apply thermal paste ). The guide says to "Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket" when it should say "gently pull it to the right in order to dislodge it from the socket, never pull upwards". I pulled it upwards because I did not realize that it was a "sideways" socket, and almost broke the socket and had a blank screen on startup (gently righting the bent socket with a tweezers fixed it).
Very glad you're able to fix the connector :)
Thank you for this write up. I was able to change out a bad logic board on my mid 2010 macbook pro that my ex wife had ruined with a spill of a soft drink. The heat sink on the new-used logic board was in worse shape than the original heat sink, so I had to swap them out. Wouldn’t have been able to do that without this guide. Once again, many thanks on helping to get new life into my 10 year old macbook pro :D
having difficulties after changing my thermal paste, unable to get the MacBook to boot up. Tinkered around a bit and it booted up for one go then a few keys were not working so I had to reconnect the cable again then the laptop went off again. Please help.
Last night, I did the thermal paste on an Early 2011, 17" and had no trouble. Now, I just did the thermal paste for this one, Mid 2010, 13", but the machine won't turn back on.
The battery indicator works on the outside of the machine works. I tried connecting the magsafe and its light did not turn on. I took the bottom case off, looked at the connectors, then tried the magsafe again. Now the magsafe seems to be working properly (green at first, then amber). I tried resetting SMC, got nothing.
I'm wondering if I damaged the hard drive cable. Would that cause the machine to be unresponsive? Is it safe to say the logic board is fine if the battery indicator is working?
Any other ideas? Thank you
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Réponse
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Réponse
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Réponse
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Réponse