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Droit à la réparation

Boutique

Introduction

La Nintendo Switch est livrée avec deux manettes Joy-Con. Ce tutoriel vous montre comment remplacer le joystick de la Joy-Con droite. La procédure pour réparer la Joy-Con gauche est différente, veillez donc à suivre les bonnes instructions pour votre manette.

  1. Retirez les quatre vis  Tri-Point Y00 du panneau arrière de la Joy-Con.
    • Retirez les quatre vis Tri-Point Y00 du panneau arrière de la Joy-Con.

    • Ces vis mesurent chacune 6,2 mm de long, mais il est toujours judicieux de les trier et de les revisser dans les trous appropriés !

    I found it easier to remove the rubber cover over the joystick before changing it, and to remove it on the replacement before installing it. So that would be step 1 for me next time.

    kmcrawford111 - Réponse

    Si tienes cuidado no hay que desconectar nada. Sólo el cable del joystick, evidentemente, todos los demás se pueden dejar conectados, sobre todo el de la batería para que te ayude a probar si todo funciona antes de cerrar y atornillar todo de nuevo.

    Te ahorras 15 minutos y muchas posibilidades de romper cosas.

    Víctor SLB - Réponse

  2. Insérez un médiator sous la partie inférieure du panneau arrière (en face des boutons R et ZR). Faites glisser un côté plat du médiator le long du côté de la Joy-Con. Veillez à ne pas introduire le médiator trop profondément dans la Joy-Con. Cela pourrait endommager les composants internes. Le panneau arrière comporte des attaches peu profondes sur la partie opposée au rail de chargement. Elles cèdent assez facilement, vous n'avez donc pas besoin d'appuyer beaucoup.
    • Insérez un médiator sous la partie inférieure du panneau arrière (en face des boutons R et ZR).

    • Faites glisser un côté plat du médiator le long du côté de la Joy-Con.

    • Veillez à ne pas introduire le médiator trop profondément dans la Joy-Con. Cela pourrait endommager les composants internes. Le panneau arrière comporte des attaches peu profondes sur la partie opposée au rail de chargement. Elles cèdent assez facilement, vous n'avez donc pas besoin d'appuyer beaucoup.

  3. Ouvrez la Joy-Con comme un livre, le rail de charge faisant face à vous. Ne tentez pas encore de retirer complètement le panneau arrière. Deux nappes relient encore le rail de charge à la carte mère.
    • Ouvrez la Joy-Con comme un livre, le rail de charge faisant face à vous.

    • Ne tentez pas encore de retirer complètement le panneau arrière. Deux nappes relient encore le rail de charge à la carte mère.

  4. Utilisez une spatule pour débrancher délicatement le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère. Cela empêchera la Joy-Con de s'allumer pendant la réparation. Soyez extrêmement prudent lorsque vous soulevez le connecteur de la batterie. S'il ne se débranche pas, essayez de tirer délicatement sur les câbles.
    • Utilisez une spatule pour débrancher délicatement le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère. Cela empêchera la Joy-Con de s'allumer pendant la réparation.

    • Soyez extrêmement prudent lorsque vous soulevez le connecteur de la batterie. S'il ne se débranche pas, essayez de tirer délicatement sur les câbles.

    Could've done with a narrower spudger for this and on the way back

    James - Réponse

    The plug is difficult to get a spudger under and leads to a lot of failed attempts where something could be damaged. I found it comes apart easier if you gently pull the wires with tweezers.

    Robert L - Réponse

    Agree. The spudger is too wide for this task. This guide needs to get update with his better approach.

    Nick Cope -

    I damaged this connector while trying to remove by pulling on the wires as suggested. The plastic over the wires broke out. I was able to “repair” it by carefully placing the pins in place without shorting, covering the top (only) of the connector with a little super glue. After curing I placed it over the receptacle as closely as possible with tweezers, and gently pressed in with a pencil eraser tip.

    I like the narrower spudger idea, but have never seen one.

    kmcrawford111 - Réponse

    Hey, I was wondering if you damaged the part that attaches to the motherboard because I’ve done that and I’m not sure how to fix it?

    Milli3 -

    Hey so when I did this step it turns out I pulled the entire battery connector out not like the wires or the plug in but the entire connector that connects to the motherboard. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible for me to fix this or if I’d have to buy yet another set of joycons :(

    Milli3 - Réponse

    Milli, unfortunately repairing that connector is a tough fix unless you’ve got some microsoldering equipment. :( That said! You shouldn’t need to buy a whole other set of Joy-Cons. What you can do is find a replacement motherboard online, or even a cheap used Joy-Con from ebay and replace your motherboard with that one! I’m sorry about your bad luck, I hope this helps!

    Taylor Dixon -

    I have fcuked my entire connector and ruined it. Never pull the battery connector and just make your mods with the battery attached!! Mind the wires, finish your job quickly, and forget about powering off your joycon during teardown..

    Kelvin Susanto - Réponse

    Not at all clear from the photo what it is I am pulling off. Need a larger, zoomed-in image.

    danbalzer - Réponse

    Maybe add a third photo, showing what the socket looks like once the connector is removed.

    danbalzer -

    Click any photo in this guide to zoom in. Here’s the connector photo.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Es ist ein Steckkontakt. Sprich: Wenn du es wieder zusammenbaust, musst du das Kabel von oben reindrücken.

    anonymous 5632 - Réponse

    Skip this step. It is far too easy to pull off the connector from the motherboard. Ruined the joy of fixing it. There is enough length on the wires to just skip steps 4 (this step), 5, and 6 and jump to 7. It is what it is. I’m mad at myself.

    Fernando Pruneda - Réponse

    I struggled with this step too and thanks to your tip, skipped out steps 4, 5, 6, 7 and rejoining at 8. It was tricky with the wires and being delicate not to damage any connections, but saved me so much stress in reconnections or permanent damage.

    I also skipped out removing the ZR cable too. I guess the less I do, the less that could go wrong.

    Keen Hui -

  5. Les deux étapes suivantes montrent comment retirer la batterie et de câble d'antenne coaxial du châssis interne. Ces deux étapes simplifient la réparation, mais ne sont pas indispensables. Si vous le souhaitez, vous pouvez laisser la batterie et le câble coaxial gris en place et passer à l’étape 7. Insérez un médiator entre la batterie et le boîtier de la Joy-Con. Soulevez doucement la batterie, qui est légèrement collée en place. Veillez à ni déformer ni perforer la batterie, elle risque de s'enflammer ou d'exploser si elle est endommagée.
    • Les deux étapes suivantes montrent comment retirer la batterie et de câble d'antenne coaxial du châssis interne. Ces deux étapes simplifient la réparation, mais ne sont pas indispensables. Si vous le souhaitez, vous pouvez laisser la batterie et le câble coaxial gris en place et passer à l’étape 7.

    • Insérez un médiator entre la batterie et le boîtier de la Joy-Con. Soulevez doucement la batterie, qui est légèrement collée en place.

    • Veillez à ni déformer ni perforer la batterie, elle risque de s'enflammer ou d'exploser si elle est endommagée.

    I don’t have a pick, just spudgers and blue plastic pry tools. There are gaps on the rail side of the battery where you can very easily get a spudger in and get the battery out.

    Robert L - Réponse

  6. Avant de procéder à cette étape, notez la manière dont le câble d’antenne et son circuit imprimé sont insérés pour les remonter correctement plus tard. Détachez délicatement la moitié supérieure du câble d'antenne gris pour le retirer du compartiment de la batterie.
    • Avant de procéder à cette étape, notez la manière dont le câble d’antenne et son circuit imprimé sont insérés pour les remonter correctement plus tard.

    • Détachez délicatement la moitié supérieure du câble d'antenne gris pour le retirer du compartiment de la batterie.

  7. Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule pour débrancher le connecteur coaxial du câble d'antenne de la carte mère. Retirez le câble d'antenne gris.
    • Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule pour débrancher le connecteur coaxial du câble d'antenne de la carte mère.

    • Retirez le câble d'antenne gris.

    • Lors du remontage, reconnectez le câble d'antenne, puis assurez-vous qu'il s'achemine correctement dans le compartiment de la batterie à l'intérieur du châssis interne, comme avant le démontage.

    The antenna cable is very difficult to reconnect so if possible leave the coaxial connector connected

    Ethan Puente - Réponse

  8. Retirez les trois vis cruciformes #00 de 3,5 mm du châssis interne.
    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes #00 de 3,5 mm du châssis interne.

    • Ne tentez pas encore de retirer le châssis interne. Une nappe connecte toujours le bouton ZR du châssis interne à la carte mère en dessous.

    PH000, not PH00

    darian.prochnow - Réponse

  9. Retournez délicatement le châssis interne et éloignez-le de la carte mère. Faites de votre mieux pour ne pas forcer sur la nappe reliée au bouton ZR pendant  cette étape.
    • Retournez délicatement le châssis interne et éloignez-le de la carte mère.

    • Faites de votre mieux pour ne pas forcer sur la nappe reliée au bouton ZR pendant cette étape.

    At this stage, the R button pops off very easily. Almost inevitable. And when it does, you’ll probably lose the spring. Better to carefully take it off yourself and make sure the spring stays with it.

    Athul Acharya - Réponse

  10. La nappe  du bouton ZR est fixée par un petit connecteur ZIF à la carte mère. Utilisez une pincette ou une spatule pour relever le clapet du connecteur ZIF. Utilisez une pincette pour tirer délicatement la nappe du bouton ZR hors de la prise du connecteur ZIF. La nappe est maintenant déconnectée et vous pouvez enlever le châssis interne. La nappe du bouton ZR de cette Joy-Con est courte et peut être difficile à reconnecter. Si vous craignez de ne pas pouvoir la reconnecter, vous pouvez sauter cette étape et la laisser branchée.
    • La nappe du bouton ZR est fixée par un petit connecteur ZIF à la carte mère. Utilisez une pincette ou une spatule pour relever le clapet du connecteur ZIF.

    • Utilisez une pincette pour tirer délicatement la nappe du bouton ZR hors de la prise du connecteur ZIF. La nappe est maintenant déconnectée et vous pouvez enlever le châssis interne.

    • La nappe du bouton ZR de cette Joy-Con est courte et peut être difficile à reconnecter. Si vous craignez de ne pas pouvoir la reconnecter, vous pouvez sauter cette étape et la laisser branchée.

    • Si vous décidez de laisser la nappe branchée, faites attention. Tout au long des étapes suivantes, progressez lentement et faites de votre mieux pour empêcher le châssis de se déplacer et d'endommager la nappe.

    Putting this back together was the hardest step

    James - Réponse

    Who knows an easy way to put this back in?

    Mr Krabs - Réponse

    My children learned to drive, went to college, got married and had children, by the time I got this to reconnect!

    I used the tweezers to carefully grab the end and slide it in. Make sure the lock is up because without the ribbon it falls down really easy.

    The left joy con is easy peasy compared to this one.

    Bethany Shillet - Réponse

    This is the worst step

    Devan Miller - Réponse

    I think this step should warrant upgrading this from Moderate… I can’t understand why Nintendo decided to put SOO much slack on the left controller and then absolutely no slack on the right…

    errolsayre - Réponse

    I wasn’t remotely prepared for how much more difficult this was compared to the left Joy-Con. I ended up ruining the entire unit trying to reinsert the ZR cable into the zif connector.

    Andrew Ellis - Réponse

    I found this to be easier than the left joycon, maybe because I did the right joycon first. The cable is very rigid, so I just held the two parts of the joycon together so that the cable was already lined up with the connector. From there, you can make the final adjustment with tweezers, and the cable won’t fight you as much in the process.

    Charlie Lewis - Réponse

    Following your instructions, I finished it in less than a minute. I had been struggling with this step for a while. Thank you!

    Anup Upasani -

    maybe I’m being an idiot, but why does this have to be removed? I can get to the stick’s screws etc, and remove it and nothing seems to be in the way, thus making this step seem unnecessary. It was a little tricky to unscrew the joystick once the screws started to loosen, but I just propped the joycon up on my finger. There’s a risk to doing it this way, but then there’s a risk doing it either way, and judging from comments above about how awkward this is, maybe leaving it is best.

    N Carter - Réponse

    You’re definitely not being an idiot! It doesn’t technically need to be removed. :) That cable is so fragile though that the risk of leaving it connected with the midframe dangling awkwardly (as we leave it in step 9) seemed greater than the annoyance of disconnecting and reconnecting it. Definitely tricky and risky either way you slice it, though! Either way is a viable option. I’ll add a note to the step!

    Taylor Dixon -

    I think having a clamper that can hold the motherboard and the rest of the body really would help. I didn’t have anything that I could use but I propped it up with two jar lids so that the joystick would not make the whole thing wobble. I grabbed the midframe with one hand and used tweezers in the other hand to guide it in and close it.

    Here’s a picture: https://i.imgur.com/fSEIBqE.jpg

    My R button came off but I put it in before I screwed the midframe in place.

    I hope it helps.

    Kshitij Parajuli - Réponse

    This step should say in CAPITALS at the start that this is not strictly necessary, because the connector between the 2 boards is practically impossible to reconnect

    mcsmith1981 - Réponse

    Wouldn’t agree with people here - getting the ribbon back in is pretty finicky (much easier if you do it flipped over along the side, not like they have it in the photo), but I don’t see how you could get the joystick out and a new one in without moving it so much that you break it (then you’ve wasted the money on the kit and have to buy a whole new unit).

    I however would agree that you don’t need to disconnect the battery or antenna. I pulled the antenna patch out of the midframe and let it dangle, but left the battery in and connected, and it was fine. Much better than removing them but leaving this fragile thing connected.

    Isaac Woods - Réponse

    The grey plastic zif lock came off and I lost it. I replaced pretty much the entire contents of an iPhone 6, but couldn’t do this step. Don’t detach it if you don’t need to!

    Anyone know if I can get another one?!

    Nathan Trevivian - Réponse

  11. La nappe du joystick est également fixée par un connecteur ZIF. Utilisez une pincette ou une spatule pour retourner le clapet ZIF et déconnecter la nappe avec précaution. La nappe du joystick est également fixée par un connecteur ZIF. Utilisez une pincette ou une spatule pour retourner le clapet ZIF et déconnecter la nappe avec précaution. La nappe du joystick est également fixée par un connecteur ZIF. Utilisez une pincette ou une spatule pour retourner le clapet ZIF et déconnecter la nappe avec précaution.
    • La nappe du joystick est également fixée par un connecteur ZIF. Utilisez une pincette ou une spatule pour retourner le clapet ZIF et déconnecter la nappe avec précaution.

    Recommend putting a small amount of electrical tape or masking tape on the tweezers to protect the ribbon cable during reinstallation.

    smichaeldavis - Réponse

  12. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 3,5 mm du joystick.
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 3,5 mm du joystick.

    Also do your best not to bump the “R” button as it my fall out and you might break off the solid state device it activates. My device broke off as I was unaware of my hand placement while holding the controller. I recommend others learn from my mistake and hold the controller by the long edge only.

    Edmund Cooper - Réponse

  13. Retirez délicatement le joystick de son logement. Il y a un fin  joint noir autour du trou où le joystick passe à travers la manette. Faites de votre mieux pour ne pas bouger ce joint lorsque vous retirez le joystick ! Une fois que votre Joy-Con est complètement réassemblée, connectez-la à votre Nintendo Switch et calibrez le nouveau joystick. Vous devrez peut-être redémarrer votre Switch en maintenant le bouton d'alimentation enfoncé pendant 10 à 15 secondes jusqu'à ce qu'elle s'éteigne, puis la rallumer.
    • Retirez délicatement le joystick de son logement.

    • Il y a un fin joint noir autour du trou où le joystick passe à travers la manette. Faites de votre mieux pour ne pas bouger ce joint lorsque vous retirez le joystick !

    • Une fois que votre Joy-Con est complètement réassemblée, connectez-la à votre Nintendo Switch et calibrez le nouveau joystick. Vous devrez peut-être redémarrer votre Switch en maintenant le bouton d'alimentation enfoncé pendant 10 à 15 secondes jusqu'à ce qu'elle s'éteigne, puis la rallumer.

    The first time I tried to re-seat the new joystick, I had very slightly disturbed the black gasket (it ended up laying “on top” of the nearby wires, rather than underneath). This caused my joystick to register very slightly off-center after re-assembly. Once I took it apart again, gently slipped the gasket back into the right place, then the joystick registered perfectly centered. FYI!

    Geoffrey Potvin - Réponse

    I had the same experience as Geoffrey. My joystick was not able to be fully deflected downwards until I opened it back up and re-seated the gasket with the spudger. After reseating I’m also perfectly centered. Thanks for the tip!

    Truman DeYoung - Réponse

    Thanks! I had literally the same issue and reading your comments saved me doing this twice!!

    Luis Fernando Mata - Réponse

    This is literally my first ever repair and it went really well. Thanks guys. Although I would recommend not removing the zr cable, be gentle and save yourself the hassle of a tricky reconnect.

    Adsta Congrejo - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.

Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.

La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide en cas de problème.

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36 commentaires

A good guide though for the antenna instead of disconnecting the cable it would be easier to simply slide out the plate and wire from the side of the battery tray

Tyler Karabin - Réponse

Agree with Tyler - no need to disconnect the antenna.

Thanks for the guide!

David K - Réponse

The antenna and battery don’t need to be disconnected, you can easily move them out of the way.

When reassembling, reconnecting the ribbon cable for the RL button is fiddly, easier if you can avoid disconnecting it as well. Just rotate the plastic battery plate a quarter turn counterclockwise to get it out of the way and access the analog stick.

You can test the controller immediately after seating the joystick to make sure the ribbon cable is properly connected.

Peter Amstutz - Réponse

In agreement with the others, antenna definitely doesn’t need to be removed. Also noticed that the Y000 bit worked a lot better than the Y00 for the outside screws.

Steve Cazier - Réponse

Hello I have followed the guide succesfully for the most part, however the joy con doesn’t seem to power up after reconnecting the battery and the anthenna. I even tried swapping the batteries between joy- cons and battery from the right one does work in the left one. The right joy con doesn’t turn on even with the other battery inserted. Any ideas?

kajterman - Réponse

If you are able to isolate that the battery from being the source of the issue, it unfortunately may be that the battery connector socket has some damage or was shorted. I recommend inspecting that part closely to see if there is any issue and use compressed air in the relevant area.

Cooper -

I think the issue is elsewhere, since I can’t even connect the joy con physically. The other one does work even when I take out the battery and insert it into the console. This one doesn’t.

kajterman -

I agree, it sounds like it’s not a battery issue. If the right one doesn’t work even when attached to the console there’s probably a shorted or broken connection in the power circuitry of the motherboard.

Andrew Ellis -

Caution: it appears the new joycon have a revised analog stick and the older replacement sticks will Not work. This is from an evening of research and taking apart 5 controllers. Nothing official.

New joycon have an analog stick with an “H" pattern pressed into the metal back of the stick. Older replacement sticks have an “X" imprinted and older joycon look like they have an “#".

It looks like the “#" and the “X" are interchangeable but the cable on the “H" are thinner. So the motherboard won't accept the older thicker style.

I've spent a few hours on this and have broken two replacement sticks finding this out. I haven't found anything official about Nintendo changing the sticks but I guess they eventually would to prevent the drift issue.

Scott Nieman - Réponse

sorry, but this doesn’t seem to be the case in my experience. I have just removed a stick from a UK switch that I got on launch day, and this had the H shape on the back. I replaced it with a stick bought the other day off amazon that claims to be ‘new’ design and has a # shape on the back. This is my 1st time doing this but the connectors seem to fit and everything seems to be working. So I don’t know how you can conclusively say H is new and H and # don’t interchange, because in my case that’s not true.

N Carter -

just replaced original joy-cons marked H with replacement joysticks with # and working as they should.

Jacob Croxford -

Just chiming in with a differing experience. I have three left Joy Cons I bought at the end of 2017, one is the original from the Switch, two were bought separately. All three had the H stamped in the back, and all three were compatible with the #-stamped replacement parts I bought from the store here. I should have whipped out my calipers, but the ribbons didn’t feel any thicker.

I’m sure Scott is right: there are probably some early controllers that have a different style of connector, but I don’t believe the stamp shape is a reliable way to determine compatibility.

Scott: I hope you were able to repair your controllers!

Ben Etherington -

a good guide but instead of guiding you through the process of rescrewing and reconnecting everything you just say “yea follow the guide back”. I mean it worked for me but its still better to atleast give some tipps on how for example reconnect the battery, because i personally had the most trouble with it.

Daniel Aldushyn - Réponse

Daniel, that is definitely one of the drawbacks of our guides! What specifically did you struggle with while reconnecting the battery? I can add a reminder bullet to that step to help people in the future.

Taylor Dixon -

I agree, pulling out the cables is a lot easier than trying to slide them back in.

N Carter -

Nicely done. Thank you for sharing.

kmcrawford111 - Réponse

Fixed my joycon thanks iFixit!!!

Devan Miller - Réponse

good guide overall, but I messed up the battery connector socket and now it appears it needs to be soldered back on the board. It would have been great to have a better close up of that since it was unclear to me. Any suggestions on this more in-depth repair?

Nathaniel Wilson - Réponse

No problems completing this what so ever. I did opt to not disconnect the battery and antenna. Mostly because I was having issues getting the spudger near the battery connection. Thanks so much for the fantastic guide!

Cameron Sorbie - Réponse

hi! i’ve replaced the analog stick on my right joy-con, however, now the stick wont recognize a “click”/R3 input. i don’t know if i screwed it up or how the click is registered electronically. now i cannot calibrate the new stick, or use any R3 function. any ideas? :/

Joseph Leib - Réponse

just as a suggestion is there any corrosion where the ribbon cable goes into the board?

Coker Lisonbee -

Thanks for the guide! my only issue which doesn’t pertain to the guide itself but my new stick won’t fully center but I’m also not getting any drift either. Anyway thanks again for the guide, it was really straight forward and easy to understand. (edit: I did also calibrate the stick a few times to center but it still won’t.)

Coker Lisonbee - Réponse

I’m glad everything went smoothly for you! If you bought the joystick from us you can contact our customer service team and they’ll send you a replacement.

Taylor Dixon -

Worked great! Had a joystick that was drifting and the new part and guide fixed it perfectly. The one extra note I would make is to watch out for the top spring-loaded button popping out. It came out at step 9 and I was lucky I was able to find the spring. Just something to look out for. Thanks so much for the guide!

Kyle Hatlestad - Réponse

A good guide : changed the left and right joy-con with no problems. Just the left button’s spring that decided to pop out. But not a problem (I did not saw it at first).

Fabrice - Réponse

Missing from the recommended tools list — jeweler’s glasses! These components are TINY and it was nearly impossible to see what I was poking and pulling at.

danbalzer - Réponse

Think I messed the battery part up when reconnecting. Works when attached but shows battery indicator as red and doesn’t work detached ?

M J - Réponse

Brilliant. This is literally the first thing I've repaired myself and it went really well. Thank you from a new right to repair fan.

Adsta Congrejo - Réponse

Hallo ,

Ich hatte ein fixkit bestellt worin erst ein kaputtes Ersatzteil drinn war, habe aber direkt ein neues bekommen und konnte mein Nintendo jetzt erfolgreich reparieren

LG

Benny - Réponse

Hallo Benny,

super, dass alles geklappt hat! Viel Spaß mit deiner Switch.

Viele Grüße!

Fabian Neidhardt -

I bought 2 sticks from ifixit and both looked used and nether fixed the drift in the right joycon and ideas what it could be or do you thing i bought bad sticks

Kristopher Miller - Réponse

Took mine apart hoping to find a possible loose connection causing severe battery drain on my Joy-con. Nothing seemed out of place when I put it back together, but now the only button that works on it is the R3!!! Have no idea what I could have messed up, as I did not take the circuit board out at all. It lights up and pairs, but R3 only works, and when I check the calibration, the Joycon is pegged to the bottom right, will not move.

Joshua Bell - Réponse

-Update- took back apart, checked ribbon cables, and the arm on the Joystick ribbon cable was not locked, so that is fixed and the buttons work, but now they randomly activate without pressing them, and the SR and SL buttons do not work. I did not try taking out the main circuit board yet, but that is my next idea to reseat the buttons and check for possible broken ribbon cables. It will connect to the Switch, but only if I dock it to it.

Joshua Bell -

Great guide. I was able to get the joystick swapped and the controller buttoned back up. But upon testing it didn’t calibrate, and in a game it just spun in circles. Took it apart again to see I failed to plug the joystick into the board. Plugged it in, reassembled and all is good. Thanks for this service.

Alexander Hughes - Réponse

thx for the guide

Elisabeth Heine - Réponse

Thank you so much for this guide! My joy-con is working perfectly now. It was clear and concise but I agree with others and maybe state at the start which steps are optional. Still a novice when it comes to electronics, so any shortcuts would be most appreciated.

Keen Hui - Réponse

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