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Introduction
Pré-requis interne.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du câble-ruban AirPort/Bluetooth pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
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Avec précaution, débranchez le câble vidéo de sa prise sur la carte mère.
I've replaced 4 dvd's with hdd's already, in different macbooks, so wasn't too fussed about #5. However; this time I broke the camera connector cable :(
The connector is stil in it's socket, and I can't get it out no matter what I try. My guess is that some of the glue that connects the socket to the logic board, got into the socket as well. Prying with a small screwdriver, pulling with a pair of tweezers... nothing works. And this mbp belongs to a friend who uses his camera a lot for skyping...
I hope we're still friends after I tell him.
The thing is; I think it might be possible to do the whole operation with that cable still in its sockets; if you pull the rest of the cable free of the fingers, you can probably fold it out of the way when you lift the dvd out.
This is Sooo Unnecessary!! don't do it!
I actually found it necessary to do this step. If not done you can rip chord, if you read the wording carefully and do as it says it should not break.
After having initially skipped this step, I finally followed it. I couldn't find a way to move the airport / bluetooth assembly away otherwise, and in the end it's a pain to put the small screws back in. Didn't have any trouble unplugging the camera cable, but it is indeed scary because it looks pretty fragile.
I only skipped step 8, as it didn't seem necessary.
I also broke my camera cable!!! And I just realized that removing that lovely cable was not necessary for the following steps!!! Thank you!
I dont know how to fix this problem and I asked it in this question: How can I fix broken camera cable
Please, help...
I have a blog post on my experience of performing the upgrade with a simple diagram showing how to skip step 6, 7, 8 and 11. (http://www.ocyedwin.com/?p=190)
Just did this. I elected to actually do this step and I’m glad I did. It was no big deal. Just pull straight back from the socket (not up or angled!) and although it was a little tight, it came out. I think it’s worth it not to possibly mess that cable up when you extract the drive. The drive itself does not lift up straight out- you have to work it out as there a few minor obstructions. At that point, it would be very easy to damage the camera cable. I took all the antenna cables off even those this guide only recommended taking off the long cable. This was due to an Apple repair video I had seen. This proved to be unnecessary and I should just have stuck with this guide’s recommendation. I did skip taking the woofer cable off towards the end of this guide as that seemed to be, and subsequently proved to be, utterly unnecessary. All in all, just moving slowly and carefully I managed this in 30 mins though next time will be faster, no doubt.
I did not perform step 6, 7, 8, 10 and 11. Once I performed step 9, I was able move the speaker housing to the right enough to get a long screwdriver to get to the ‘hidden’ screw underneath the housing and just removed the other two main screws holding in the drive in step 14. I did remove the HDD and holding backet prior to starting so I could slip the superdrive out and place the caddy back in the opposite direction. You just have to careful not to snag the wires when trying to remove the superdrive and and when slipping in the caddy. My Macbook is a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) and I only needed a Philips 00 screwdriver, and did not need to use a Torx screwdriver during any part of the upgrade.
Did not have to do steps 6, 7, or 11 and I was pretty clumsy (highly recommend a magnetic screwdriver or you'll struggle like me using a Dollar Tree kit). For reference was replacing a superdrive in a Late 2011 13 inch MacBook Pro after also upgrading my RAM. Used a third party replacement from Amazon and I'm listening to a CD with the replacement right now :)
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Dégagez avec précaution le câble-ruban AirPort/Bluetooth pour qu'il ne vous gêne pas lorsque vous décollez le câble vidéo de l'adhésif par lequel il est fixé au caisson de basses et au support AirPort/Bluetooth.
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Libérez le câble vidéo qui passe sous la dent de retenue moulée dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.
Confirmed for a second time: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.
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À l'aide de la pointe d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur d'antenne le plus proche de la carte mère pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.
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Libérez le câble de l'antenne qui passe sous la dent de retenue moulée dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.
Based on the advice above, I tried to skip this step. Unfortunately, the way the wire wraps around the plastic caused it to break underneath when I lifted the optical drive out, and now I have another broken part.
Yu can easily skip the step, just make sure you take care when removing/put away the AirPort/BT assembly in the next step, be gentle.
Ce connecteur est très fermement fixéà la carte. Lorsque j'ai procédé comme expliqué ici, il s'est brisé !!!!
J'ai tenté de le recoller. Pour l'instant il semblerait que j'ai toujours du wifi. Ouf.
Je pense donc qu'il faut éviter cette étape si possible.
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Retirez les cinq vis suivantes :
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Deux vis Phillips 10,3 mm.
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Deux vis Phillips 3,1 mm.
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Une vis Phillips 5 mm.
Note the position of the little grounding rings when removing the red (10mm) screws. You'll have to make sure to re-seat them when reassembling!
You are so right about making sure to put back the two metal rings when you screw back the two (red) 10.3mm screws. I missed putting back one of the rings and read your comment after I had installed the drive and closed the macbook. Everything was working fine, but I went back to open it an leave it just as it was, with both metal (one with a plastic/cloth material around it) plates/rings attached properly. So it is very important to make sure you put those two 10.3 mm screws back with the plates/rings that they hold, exactly as they were before you put it apart.
pachis2 -
I think you should remark when re-assembling the machine, you should pay attention to the metal clip in Step 9, the upper left screw position, it's easy to miss when assembling, because there are so many wires, and it may be very easy forgetting putting the metal clip back in place.
As far as the grounding ring goes, it slips back over the screw hole, be patient and gentle. You may have to finagle the airport board under it first and then lay the board flat and reattach the subwoofer. I will see if I can add a pic in the near future. But that the best way to describe it.
FYI: These are #00 Phillips screws!
I have removed the screws circled in red but when I try to remove the board, it seems there is something else that's holding down the piece. It seems to pivot around the spot in between the 2 screws circled in red. I'm hesitant to use too much force to pull it out and therefore stuck. Can anyone help me out?
Edit: For clarity, I have removed the screw circled in yellow, but not those circled in orange as I understand you can remove the the board in 1 whole piece.
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Tirez l'ensemble AirPort/Bluetooth et le caisson de basses vers le haut, près du centre du côté du lecteur optique, jusqu'à ce qu'ils s'écartent l'un de l'autre.
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Éloignez l'ensemble AirPort/Bluetooth et le caisson de basses du dessus du lecteur optique.
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Dégagez le câble du haut-parleur droit/caisson de basses coincé sous la dent de retenue près du côté du lecteur optique.
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Tirez le câble du haut-parleur droit/caisson de basses vers le haut pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
Agreed. I skipped this step. No need to risk breaking a cable or connector if you don't have to disconnect it to get the optical drive out.
Three things:
1. Thanks for this guide!
2. I don't understand the comments that this step (#11, disconnect the speaker cable from the logic board) can be skipped, given this guide is all about replacing a failed right speaker/subwoofer. Maybe this step was re-titled from its original post?
3. My (used) replacement part from iFixit (part IF163-029-1) for my mid-2012 Macbook Pro 13" was different than the OEM part in that the replacement part's cable exited the subwoofer enclosure from the "northeast" corner of the package, rather than the "southeast" corner of the package. This required a rerouting of the cable to a route *on top" of the subwoofer rather than below it, as a nearby boss prevented the original route. Also, I needed to completely remove the heat shrink that joined the subwoofer and right speaker cables together near the connector, as it prevented the radius necessary to route that portion of the wire. I have pics but I don't see how one can provide them in the comments.
I agree, I found the instructions to not be clear about the care necessary in removing the cable from the logic board, and I also pulled the receptacle off of the logic board. And now I do not have right/woofer speaker sound, and no way to correct it. I can see that there are two small thumbnail size photos above the main photo, and these give a bit more instructional information. These photos should be bigger so that you will notice them, and the extreme care needed to remove the cable should be prominently noted. At this point in time, my 2012 computer is eleven years old, so extreme care is needed in removing this cable.
Adding on to my previous comment, if you check the replacement guide for the logic board, you will see that it is recommended that you remove the cable by using the spudger to gently pry up the cable. Whereas here, in this guide, it tells you to just "pull up" the cable using your fingers. Using the spudger would help in not pulling the receptacle off of the logic board. See here - https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...
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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur du câble du disque dur pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
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Repliez le câble du lecteur optique pour le dégager du lecteur optique.
N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.
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Retirez les trois vis Phillips 2,7 mm par lesquelles le lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier supérieur.
can i reuse this optical drive again
Sure you can. Use it in anything. Stick it in a USB enclosure and carry it.
iFixit has a guide on How to Remove a Stripped Screw: Comment enlever une vis cassée
top left screw is a nightmare
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Tirez le disque dur vers le haut en le tenant par le côté le plus proche de l'écran et retirez-le du boîtier extérieur.
Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure, I found it easier to remove the enclosure by lift the side close to the battery and main HD and pulling it towards myself (towards main HD and battery).
Did the same, also because i skipped those steps. It worked, you just have to remove it gently.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.
Greg - Réponse