Introduction
Faites des économies et remplacez seulement l'écran LCD à la place de l'ensemble écran complet.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Boîtier fermé, placez l'Unibody à l'envers sur une surface plane.
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Appuyez sur le côté rainuré du loquet de déverrouillage de la trappe d'accès de manière à saisir l'extrémité libre du loquet. Soulevez le loquet de déverrouillage à la verticale.
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Tirez sur la languette en plastique blanc et retirez la batterie de votre MacBook Unibody.
Great tutorial ! great step !
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Retirez les huit vis suivantes par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au châssis :
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Une vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Quatre vis Phillips 3,5 mm.
Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.
I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.
When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:
1, Top left
2. Top right
3. Top center-left
4. Top center-right
5. Bottom center-right
6. Bottom center-left
7. Bottom right
8. Bottom left
I hope this information is helpful.
I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.
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En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur et retirez-le du boîtier supérieur.
Thanks for the guide!
It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.
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Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra en tirant l'extrémité mâle tout droit hors de la prise.
Be EXTREMELY careful when removing and re-inserting the 'camera' cable. The contacts can be easily bent beyond repair if you try to force it back in. Damaging this cable at this connection or near the display may disable your ability to use your iSight camera, AND both your Bluetooth and WiFi. I had to pay apple $300 to replace the entire display assembly because one prong was faulty, causing my WiFi card to not be recognized.
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Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran du canal dans le lecteur optique.
Although I ordered the screen for an A1278 MacBook Unibody Aluminum, the screen glass was marked as a MacBook Pro. The iSight/WiFi /BT cable was about an inch longer than the Macbook one and took a bit of creative re-routing, but everything works fine.
has it got the airport and bluetooth modules built in separately in the display assembly as in the macbook late 2008 and mbp mid 2009?
fericcio -
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Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le câble de données de l'écran et le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :
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Une vis cruciforme de 9,9 mm partiellement filetée
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Une vis cruciforme filetée de 9,6 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 4 mm
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Faites glissez la fixation de la nappe de la caméra hors de son emplacement sous le caisson de basse et ôtez-la de l'ordinateur.
My model has different bracket, you need to remove the subwoofer first
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
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Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise.
i can't understand what I need to do in this step, I'm afraid with this step, i think i can "hurt" my mac and i don't want to do that, anyone knows what i need to do?
Thanks
There is a steel 'latch' that flips over from the left side of the connector, to the right side. After you flip this latch over, the cable will easily slide out.
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Dévissez les deux vis suivantes, attachant la fixation du câble de données de l'écran :
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Une vis cruciforme de 7 mm.
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Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm.
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Soulevez la fixation du câble de données de l'écran hors du boîtier supérieur.
Note for Step 10 during reassembly: Be careful when replacing the screw for the display cable bracket closest to the magnetic power cord receptacle. The interior magnet might attract the screw causing the screw to get pulled under the DC power circuit board which might then require that you disassemble things again to retrieve the screw.
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Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx de 6 mm fixant les deux côtés de l'écran au boîtier supérieur (4 vis au total).
Hey guys, with these older models Do Not interchange different colored LVDS cables. Note the connector here is gold, do not use a silver connector on a gold one or vice versa. I fried a logic board this way on an A1278. Note that the core i7 lvds connector is different than the core i5.
I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!
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Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.
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Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.
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Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, dévissez la vis Torx de 6 mm de la fixation inférieure de l'écran.
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Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.
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Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
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Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que aucune fixation ni aucune nappe ne reste accrochée.
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Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.
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Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.
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Soulevez et éloignez doucement et délicatement le coin de la vitre de l'ensemble écran.
I'm having trouble getting the display glass off. I was able to put a card into a gap, but it wasn't the display case, but the entire lcd panel. Any ideas?
My display glass had multiple, long cracks, which is why I set out to replace it.
Lifting the screen didn't work as the suction cup was always over a crack and didn't take. I ended up lifting a piece of screen from the middle, existing cracks making it easy, and then had to go around the edge with a metal scrape to lift and remove the glued edge of the glass.
Took about two hours but it worked. Small splinters flying everywhere (goggles!). Made three inspection passes with a magnifying glass to clean up every little shard of glass and leftover glue. Everything else went fine!
If you have cracks on the screen, use packing tape on the screen to get better grip with suction cup.
Really need to amend this step... I think it is easier to break the double sided stick by SLOWLY rocking it side to side motion w/ the suction cup (macbok logo to camera) from either side of the Macbook logo.
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Soulevez précautionneusement le coin de la vitre suffisamment pour insérer une spatule (spudger) entre elle et l'ensemble écran.
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Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive fixant la vitre à l'écran.
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Soulevez la vitre de quelques centimètres au-dessus du coin supérieur droit, tout au long du bord supérieur et du bord droit de l'écran.
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Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du côté droit de la vitre avant.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté droit de la vitre avant.
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Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit séparée de l'écran.
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Avec votre pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord supérieur de la vitre.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier sur le bord supérieur de la vitre avant et tirez-la pour séparer la vitre de l'écran.
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Progressez le long du bord supérieur de la vitre en enlevant précautionneusement la colle avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule si nécessaire.
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Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.
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Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Avec le pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant.
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Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté gauche de la vitre avant.
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Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Progressez le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.
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Maintenant que les bords supérieur, gauche et droit de la vitre sont séparés de l'écran, soulevez doucement le bord supérieur de la vitre et faites-le délicatement pivoter pour le retirer de l'écran.
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Si nécessaire, séparez le bord inférieur de la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
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Pour reconnecter le câble, enlevez d'abord le morceau de mousse autocollante sur la prise ZIF du câble de données AirPort/iSight avec la pointe d'une spatule.
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Toujours avec la pointe de la spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue ZIF de la prise du câble de données AirPort/iSight.
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Insérez la nappe de la caméra dans sa prise sur la carte caméra et refermez le clapet de retenue ZIF avec la pointe de la spatule pour maintenir la nappe en place.
I used this guide to successfully replace the glass on a 2012 unibody 13” Macbook Pro.
If you are replacing the glass due to cracking/breaking, you’ll want to cover the entire surface with clear packing tape to keep shards from going everywhere. You can’t use the suction cups, since the glass will continue to crack as you pull on it, breaking the suction. I used an iSesamo and heat gun to pry the edge up, and then scrape off remaining shards around the edges.
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En commençant tout à droite, faites jouer le cache charnière tout le long de son axe pendant que vous l'ôtez de la charnière.
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En progressant de droite à gauche, soulevez et dégagez soigneusement le cache charnière du bord inférieur de l'ensemble écran.
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Ôtez le cache charnière du cache inférieur et mettez-le de côté.
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Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran de son support de fixation à côté du coin inférieur gauche de l'écran.
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Maintenez l'écran à la verticale et inclinez-le suffisamment pour saisir le bord supérieur de l'écran LCD et faites-le pivoter en l'éloignant légèrement de l'ensemble écran. Faites bien attention à ne pas détacher le système de circuits du bord inférieur.
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Tirez le LCD vers le bord supérieur de l'écran pour faire passer le système de circuits le long de son bord inférieur pour l'enlever du renfoncement dans l'écran en aluminium.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le fin clapet de retenue en acier fixant le câble de données de l'écran à sa prise sur l'écran LCD.
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Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur l'écran.
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Ôtez l'écran LCD de l'ensemble écran et mettez-le de côté.
This is awesome and It helping me a lot In replacing my MacBook Pro 20 11 i7 screen and the problem I was have. I was always a window guy but you made it easy for me to change out my LCD screen on my MacBook
Thank you
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions en sens inverse.
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15 commentaires
I followed the steps regarding removing the display glass, since my old one needed replacing. Unfortunately it did not come off, even with a good amount of heat from a heat gun. I felt any more heat would start to melt things. Eventually I tried prying a corner, which caused a crack, and ultimately I ended up chipping out tiny shards of glass everywhere. Eventually I got it done, but it was a royal pain. BE CAREFUL AND WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
There are other guides for replacing the LCD on the 13" Macbook unibody without removing the whole display assembly. I tried this and had some problems when it came to reconnecting the new LCD to the LVDS. The main problem with this is that the LVDS connector cable is very short and therefore there is not a lot of room for plugging it into the LCD. After a while I decided to follow the ifixit guide and remove the display assembly. This made things very easy since I could push the LVDS cable back a little which gave me enough room for reconnecting the LVDS easily.
Removing the glass front was difficult at first. I used a cheap suction cup (not from ifixit) but the glass didn't come off at all. At some point the suction cup broke, the rubber just came off. So I used a hair dryer and a credit card to get into the lower right corner. I started by placing the credit card in the small opening between the edge of the glass and the rubber lip (at right angle). Then I carefully and patiently dug into the corner, and as soon I was in I could carefully detach the glass from its adhesive (frequently using the hairdryer). Maybe I was just lucky, but for me this worked fine.
The rest was pretty easy (except reconnecting the LVDS which was a pain at first; see my other comment). I used permanent double sided tape to put the glass back on, which seems to work just fine.
Ok I tried to remove the front glass with a hair dryer with no success. The back case became so hot I can't even hold it to pull this the suction cup...
So I borrowed a heat gun and it was very easy to remove. I was surprised. I heated until I saw steam inside the panel through the glass. I then pulled hard on one corner ands it came. After that the all glass came easily without reheating.
After the LCD panel exchange I manage to have no dust or finger tips inside and put the glass back on its old tape glu. And shazam !
The MacBook now work great again.
Thank you ifixit.
Thank you all was ok.
Shards of glass everywhere! Do not attempt this repair unless you have a backup display glass on hand (or are prepared to shell out for it). This is not for the faint of heart: even with what seemed like excessive heat-gunning, the adhesive was too fused to everything to be able to remove it without cracking (my suction cup popped it out, and the spudger was useless for getting under the corner).
Does anyone know if that inverter can be purchased somewhere. I've tried ebay but no such luck.
Problems - heated glass too much and think I melted the display glass as a clear droplet formed on the inside.
- was unable to get any glass up at all despite extensive use of the heat gun, ending up cracking the glass trying to insert a knife under an edge as the glass was not budging at all. Was able to use knife to run under the glass after that.
- some plug popped out whilst trying to reinstall the clutch cover which was difficult to reinsert, and there is little space for the cables within this cover
-the new LVDS cable was too short and had to reinstall the old one
However, after all that, the operation appears to have been a success and everything works again, including wifi, eyesight camera and the new screen.
All in all, it was touch and go, Good luck with this procedure.
Thanks for the advice ifixit.
Thank you for the guide. The cover glass gave me a real hard time, but I managed to get it out in one piece. The key is patience (lots of it!!) and heat. Careful with the heat gun, though. Too much heat and the inner face of the glass panel will deform permanently (some kind of laminate, I guess), with small ripples ruining the job. Anyhow, two thumbs up for iFixit and the author. My laptop is running strong again.
I did this procedure in 2012 and it was a total disaster, even though I'm exceedingly patient and love tinkering with difficult repairs.
My heat gun overheated the display, so all the edges (about 1.5in in from each outer edge) were much much darker than the rest of the screen forever after that.
The glass cracked while removing it - I couldn't get any edge/corner to come up without shattering. I ended up spending hours chipping away hot shards of broken glass - total nightmare.
I started out with just a bad cable, and ended up having to buy replacement LCD, glass, and of course the cable.
Since then I always simply buy new/used top clamshell assembly with everything included, it's much easier and safer and ultimately cheaper - especially if doing this for a client or business-use machine.
The only way I'd attempt this again is if I was unemployed and broke and it was my only computer and somehow just didn't have any other options whatsoever - I can't imagine a scenario that would get me to try this again.
I just love it ! Works so well ! P E R F E C T
My original display was going bad with wide vertical lines of mis-mash showing up on the right side of screen. The display glass also had a small 3 inch wide crack near screen bottom. So I ordered new glass, and an lcd panel from ifixit.
Great directions and illustrations! The main problem I had was getting the display data connector re-attached to the new lcd screen fully (reverse, step 32).
The weird angle of the receiving receptacle, the way the cable is twisted and how bloody minute the connection is, all combine to make this a painstaking and tricky match-up. I hooked up tother end of the cable to logic board and powered up MacBook to test before re-assembly. Screen was blank. I played around with the connection further to make sure it stayed fully seated when lcd screen was positioned in display assembly and cable stretched out. After a couple of tries the display illuminated. Miracle!
Re-assembled all the parts back together and everything works correctly (except Bluetooth - I never use).
The illustrations look exactly like my 13" Macbook A1278 {late 2008}. What is different with the screenshots and your 13" A1278 {2012}?
From reading the comments here and looking at some of the Wiki's about the MacBook's, there may have been some overlaps and small cosmetic changes with the A1278 line during its three to four year manufacture life. For example. the original glass on my 13" said just "Macbook" at bottom center; when I ordered the replacement part here, the glass says "MacBook Pro". It morphed from an amateur to a Pro! :)
Hahahaha! Yes, that is correct. My MBP's glass has the "MacBook Pro" label at the bottom center.
My MBP 13" A1278 doesn't have the Access Door part (Step 1). To open its casing, I have to loosen all 10 screws. But in the end, you may be right. Hopefully, they are just cosmetic changes and replacing my laptop's screen won't be that hard if I follow the guides here. I'll have to do some thorough digging before I make my purchase.
Thanks a lot for the heads up!
Elmer -
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - Réponse
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - Réponse