Aller au contenu principal

Il est possible que cette traduction ne reflète pas les dernières mises à jour du tutoriel source. Aidez à mettre à jour la traduction ou bien consultez le tutoriel source.

Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi

Ce dont vous avez besoin

  1. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Chauffer un iOpener: étape 1, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Chauffer un iOpener: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

    • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

    • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener reste coincé, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Réponse

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Réponse

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Réponse

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Réponse

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Réponse

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Réponse

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Réponse

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Réponse

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Réponse

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Réponse

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Réponse

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Réponse

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Réponse

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Réponse

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Réponse

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Réponse

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Réponse

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Réponse

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Réponse

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Réponse

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Réponse

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Réponse

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Réponse

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Réponse

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Réponse

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Réponse

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Réponse

  2. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

    • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

    • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser. Ne le chauffez pas au-dessus de 100°C (212°F).

    • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

    • Si le milieu de l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au toucher, continuez à l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il soit assez froid pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé devrait rester chaud pendant environ 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Réponse

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Réponse

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Réponse

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Réponse

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Réponse

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Réponse

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Réponse

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Réponse

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Réponse

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Réponse

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Réponse

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Réponse

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Réponse

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Réponse

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Réponse

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Réponse

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Réponse

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Réponse

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Réponse

  3. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates, car le centre de l'outil risque d'être brûlant.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez une manique si nécessaire.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Réponse

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Réponse

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Réponse

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Réponse

  4. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Méthode alternative pour chauffer un iOpener: étape 4, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Méthode alternative pour chauffer un iOpener: étape 4, image 2 de 2
    • Si vous n'avez pas de micro-ondes, suivez cette étape pour chauffer votre iOpener dans de l'eau bouillante.

    • Remplissez une casserole ou une poêle avec suffisamment d'eau pour immerger complètement un iOpener.

    • Faites chauffer l'eau jusqu'à ébullition. Puis éteignez le feu.

    • Placez un iOpener dans l'eau chaude pendant 2 à 3 minutes. Assurez-vous que l'iOpener est complètement immergé dans l'eau.

    • Utilisez des pinces pour extraire l'iOpener chauffé de l'eau chaude.

    • Séchez soigneusement l'iOpener avec une serviette.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, veillez donc à ne le tenir que par les languettes aux extrémités.

    • Votre iOpener est prêt à être utilisé ! Si vous devez réchauffer l'iOpener, portez l'eau à ébullition, éteignez le feu et placez l'iOpener dans l'eau pendant 2 à 3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Réponse

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Réponse

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Réponse

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Réponse

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Réponse

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Réponse

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Panneau frontal: étape 5, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Panneau frontal: étape 5, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Panneau frontal: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • Si la vitre de votre appareil est fêlée, pour éviter toute autre casse et de vous blesser, il est préférable de scotcher la vitre.

    • Utilisez du ruban adhésif transparent et appliquez-le sur la surface totale de l'écran de votre iPad.

    • Le ruban adhésif va maintenir les éclats de verre et apporter une certaine intégrité à la vitre lorsqu'il sera nécessaire de faire levier et de la soulever.

    • Faites votre nécessaire pour suivre au mieux la suite du guide de démontage. Cependant, si la vitre est cassée, cela va s'empirer avec le démontage et il sera peut-être nécessaire d'utiliser un outil en métal pour faire levier et retirer complètement la vitre de l'iPad.

    • Il est recommandé de porter des lunettes de sécurité pour protéger vos yeux. Attention à ne pas non plus abîmer l'écran LCD.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - Réponse

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - Réponse

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - Réponse

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - Réponse

    Thank you! Yes things like this matter so much. I successfully replaced an iPhone 6LCD&Screen from the guide. Next was my iPad 2 and the guide said nothing about the power flex cable. They were only stressing about not severing the wifi cable. I followed instructions carefully. Got the screen off and bam. Power flex severed because it was left out of the guide. I saw it in the comments after. I’ll never follow a guide here again without reading the comments. I did receive a discount code for my next purchase but it still caused a lot of inconvience.

    Haley Hodges -

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - Réponse

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - Réponse

    I thought this shouldn’t be too hard - I only had some cracks in the glass, but then at every spot I worked on, the glass turned into nothing but tons of tiny shards. I had to use the points of the tweezers plowing along only the outer edge all the way around, sometimes with a razor blade and often using a hair dryer up close (briefly, over and over). After I got every bit of glass out, I used ordinary rubbing alcohol and Q-tips but I had to rub hard and quickly 100 times on each area to slowly dissolve the glue. I only scratched the LCD once slightly with a tweezer slip. The large chucks of display held together by the packing tape needs something under it to protect the LCD while you are working.

    Robin - Réponse

    Using Goo Gone to get rid of the adhesive residue is 20 times faster than using rubbing alcohol, even if it is 91% isopropyl alcohol.

    Skipping the iOpener and using a hair blowdryer, and using Goo Gone in place of the rubbing alcohol are 2 simple changes that will make this job much much easier than the default instructions if the screen is shattered.

    Scott Walker -

    I found the hair dryer is far more effective and less dangerous than using the iopener. If you overheat the iopener you end up pulling a hot plastic bag spewing hot glycerine out of your microwave! Not fun!

    Clifford Sullivan - Réponse

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Réponse

    Packing tape won’t do anything. You need to use duct tape to prevent glass shards from spraying everywhere. If your screen is only partially cracked (mine was the top only), modify the directions and focus on the areas that aren’t cracked first. I was able to get the lower 90% of the screen off, and then worked the cracked pieces with a heat gun and metal razor spudger. The entire repair took around 3 hours, and prob 2 hours and 30 min of that was getting the shards out and pieces off. And lots of cursing. I also told my kids if they crack another screen they are out of luck. I am not doing this again.

    Janie Hughes - Réponse

  6. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 6, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    • Disposez l'iOpener, une fois chauffé, sur le bord de l'iPad, à gauche du bouton home.

    • Laissez l'iOpener agir pendant au moins une minute pour ramollir la colle qui maintient le verre.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - Réponse

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - Réponse

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - Réponse

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - Réponse

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - Réponse

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - Réponse

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - Réponse

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - Réponse

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - Réponse

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - Réponse

    I used a 2-level heat gun, too. Supposedly 707 degrees/923 degrees.

    I kept the heat gun about 1” away from the glass and used only the low setting. Even so, I did alter the digitizer pretty quickly in a few locations around the edge. It still functions fine, and you only see it under certain circumstances, so not a huge deal. But irritating. Be cautious about too much heat. It just looks like sort of a faint, polarized grid.

    Don’t be afraid to put tension on the glue and just hold it. If it is warm enough, the glue will relax under sustained tension. This isn’t a speed event. Don’t try to rush it, or you’ll break something.

    Now that those infrared surface thermometers have become so inexpensive, it would be great if someone posted a target temperature for softening the glue without damage. That would take some of the guesswork out of this process.

    Tim - Réponse

    If you heat the iOpener somewhat longer than they recommend, and get it about as hot as your hand can stand, then place it on the iPad and cover with a towel for at least 3 minutes. Then really be patient. I got a bit impatient, and took a chance and slipped a really fine “exacto-type” of blade vertically beside the suction cup as I lifted, and thankfully that worked. That made enough room to get one of the “guitar pick” wedges in. The rest went fine.

    Pete - Réponse

    I used the iOpener to soften the adhesive. I was extra careful and it took me about 90 minutes to get to Step 30. With my acquired experience I would say, it may be done in about 30 minutes. Most important: Be patient! You may have to reheat the iOpener a few times until you will be able to do Step 9. Once I had this part done, it was a lot easier. So I would say the first 60 minutes I spent on steps 1 through 9.

    marcelflueeler - Réponse

    I’ve been using a heat and isopropyl alcohol combo on iPhone screens with no problem. This specifically says “only” heat. I feel like she’s trying to tell me to keep a lid on my IA. Because I don’t know what other methods some rogue might be trying in their efforts to compromise adhesive.

    Audi Archer - Réponse

  7. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Même si rien ne se distingue de l'extérieur de l'iPad, il y a de nombreux composants fragiles situés sous la vitre avant. Pour éviter tout dommage, veuillez chauffer et faire levier uniquement dans les zones décrites à chaque étape.

    • En suivant les instructions, évitez absolument de faire levier dans les zones suivantes :

    • Caméra avant

    • Antennes

    • Nappes de l'écran

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - Réponse

    A note about the multiple image thumbnails - roll your mouse over them to get an animated effect, rather than clicking on them individually

    Rusty - Réponse

    I’ve been using a heat and isopropyl alcohol combo on iPhone screens with no problem. This specifically says “only” heat. I feel like she’s trying to tell me to keep a lid on my IA. Because I don’t know what other methods some rogue might be trying in their efforts to compromise adhesive.

    Audi Archer - Réponse

  8. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 8, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 8, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Instructions Anti-Clamp: étape 8, image 3 de 3
    • Les trois étapes suivantes expliquent le fonctionnement de l'Anti-Clamp, un outil que nous avons conçu pour faciliter la procédure d'ouverture. Si vous n'utilisez pas l'Anti-Clamp, sautez les trois étapes suivantes pour suivre une autre méthode.

    • Pour des instructions complètes sur l'utilisation de l'Anti-Clamp, consultez ce tutoriel.

    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.

    • Posez votre iPad sur un objet, afin qu'il soit au même niveau que les ventouses.

    • Positionnez les ventouses au milieu du côté gauche de l'iPad – une dessus, une dessous.

    • Tenez fermement le bas de l'Anti-Clamp et appuyez sur la ventouse supérieure pour que les deux adhèrent.

    • Si vous constatez que la surface de votre iPad est trop lisse et que l'Anti-Clamp ne peut pas s'y accrocher, vous pouvez utiliser du ruban adhésif pour créer une surface plus adhérente.

  9. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 9, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 9, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 9, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'avant pour bloquer les bras.

    • Tournez la poignée dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.

    • Vérifiez que les ventouses restent bien alignées entre elles. Si elles commencent à se décaler, détachez-les pour les réaligner.

  10. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 10, image 2 de 2
    • Attendez une minute pour que l'adhésif ait le temps de se détendre et d'ouvrir un espace.

    • Si votre écran iPad n'est plus assez chaud, vous pouvez réchauffer le bord gauche avec un sèche-cheveux.

    • Pour des instructions complètes sur l'utilisation d'un sèche-cheveux, consultez ce tutoriel.

    • Insérez un médiator sous l'écran lorsque l'Anti-Clamp a créé un espace suffisamment grand.

    • Si l'Anti-Clamp ne crée pas un espace suffisant, chauffez davantage la zone et tournez la poignée d'un demi-tour dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.

    • Ne faites pas plus d'un demi-tour de manivelle à la fois et attendez une minute entre chaque tour. Laissez l'Anti-Clamp et le temps faire le travail à votre place.

    • Sautez les deux étapes suivantes.

  11. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 11, image 3 de 3
    • Placez soigneusement une ventouse au milieu de la partie chauffée.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse est bien à plat pour avoir la meilleure prise.

    • Tout en maintenant fermement l'iPad contre votre surface de travail, tirez progressivement sur la ventouse pour séparer le panneau frontal de la coque arrière.

    • Si l'écran de votre iPad est méchamment fissuré, le recouvrir d'une couche lisse de ruban adhésif d'emballage transparent peut aider la ventouse à adhérer correctement. Ou bien pliez un morceau de ruban adhésif épais (isolant par exemple) pour former une poignée.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - Réponse

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - Réponse

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - Réponse

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - Réponse

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - Réponse

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - Réponse

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - Réponse

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - Réponse

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - Réponse

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - Réponse

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - Réponse

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - Réponse

    You really need a lot of patience here (30-45min). But then it works. The best way was with this plastic "crowbar" to get the beginning. You really have to press hard to get in between.

    Arne Meier - Réponse

    The suction cup provided in the toolkit didn't work on anything. Tape helped, but I eventually went in through a small cracked shard to create an entry point at the bezel

    Tom Weber - Réponse

    I've passed on the iOpener as suggested in these comments and have tried to use a hairdryer. heating on high at medium speed for 1 minute then trying the suction cup. heating for another minute then using the suction cup. Been doing this for 1/2 an hour but it isn't working. Need to take a break because I'm afraid I'm going to hurt in internal components of the iPad 6 (just trying to replace a dead battery) Any suggestions ???

    Just a guy - Réponse

    LOL...i tried the pastic clear tape to hold the cracked glass then apply the hairdryer. It melted the plastic tape glue and thus making the handle with the duct tape useless and the duct tape just pulled the melted glue from the plastic packing tape up like butter. But the screen still not budging. I've tried the hair dryer for 5 mins and nothing. I've tried the iOpener and that's useless. I'm heating it up 30 secs a time. I tried 1 min. The screen is welded shut.

    brian -

  12. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Glissez le médiator dans la fente obtenue en tirant avec la ventouse.

    • Attention de ne pas introduire le médiator plus loin que le joint noir sur le bord de l'écran de l'iPad, sous peine d'endommager l'écran LCD.

    • Tirez sur l'ergot en plastique de la ventouse afin de libérer l'air et la décrocher de l'écran.

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - Réponse

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - Réponse

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - Réponse

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - Réponse

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - Réponse

    The iOpener works well, be patient and keep reheating until you can see the screen start to give a little. I kept putting mine in the microwave and it worked faster when the iOpener was hotter. 40 second intervals did the trick for me eventually

    Jackson Taylor - Réponse

    I spent an hour trying to lift the screen of an iPad Air first gen. The trick I found was that its a combination of lifting the screen a millimetre and then wiggling a razor blade vertically in the slot between the screen and the metal frame (yes its a microscopic slot). I used a hair drier on a section of the edge of the middle of the screen as above. The middle area allows for a bit of flexibility in the rail - we’re talking 0.5mm which is just enough for the razor.

    So hit a section of the screen edge with the drier till its hot to touch, do the suction cap thing as above, insert the blade vertically and wiggle it *ever so slightly* in the slot as you don’t want to break anything. Keep repeating this until you see even the slightest rise in the screen under the cap. At this point, remove the razor and insert the blue pick. It should easily dig in and under the screen, but no further than the black border.

    Remember, small wiggly steps will avoid breaking anything. Better a number of small heat and wiggles than a lift and snap.

    Rusty - Réponse

    for those who need to open more than one iPad, the iflex is safer and more effective than a razor blade. i use it to get started then switch to a pick

    iFlex Opening Tool

    Stow - Réponse

    Yea, this suction cup cracked my glass. This made it near impossible to slide the picks around. I may try again another day, but I suspect it’s toast at this point.

    Jason Prothero - Réponse

    I should have noted the difficulty rating before thinking I could replace the battery myself. I could have saved myself the cost of replacing a cracked screen, which happened when I attempted this step. I did not want to overheat the iOpener but consequently, I could not get a pick inserted underneath the screen. (I think the glue must take a lot more heat than expected to melt.) So just a warning to more novice tinkerers—this repair wasn't the same as fiddling with screwdrivers and a million small parts.

    mlliu - Réponse

  13. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Réchauffez et reposez l'iOpener (toujours du même côté).

    • Attention de ne pas trop chauffer le iOpener pendant le démontage. Attendez toujours au moins 2 minutes avant de le chauffer à nouveau.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - Réponse

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It still says 2 Minutes up there in the warning

    Sandro Krumbein - Réponse

  14. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    • Placez un second médiator à côté du premier, puis glissez-le vers le bas de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif au fur et à mesure.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - Réponse

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - Réponse

    With my shattered screen, I was able to remove it using the suction cup slightly and a metal pry, had to break the edge glass some for removal also but it didn’t do damage. More layers of shipping tape helped to make the screen stay together better and come off more intact.

    Jackson Taylor - Réponse

  15. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 15, image 3 de 3
    • Continuez à déplacer votre médiator vers le bas, le long de votre appareil, afin de décoller l'adhésif.

    • Si le médiator reste collé dans l'adhésif, tournez-le d'un quart de tour le long du bord de votre iPad, tout en continuant à décoller l'adhésif.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - Réponse

  16. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 16, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 16, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 16, image 3 de 3
    • Reprenez le premier médiator que vous aviez précédemment inséré et glissez-le vers le coin en haut de votre iPad.

    • Si vous pouvez voir le bout de votre médiator à travers le verre, pas de panique !! Tirez-le légèrement vers l'arrière. Normalement cela ne devrait pas avoir de conséquences, mais évitez autant que possible, car cela peut déposer de la colle sur l'écran LCD, qui sera difficile à enlever par la suite.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - Réponse

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - Réponse

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

    If you dare to use alcohol on your device, at least use isopropyl alcohol, not ethanol!!!

    Pierre-Aurélien - Réponse

  17. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 17, image 1 de 1
    • Réchauffez l'iOpener et placez-le en haut de votre iPad, sur la caméra avant.

    • Attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener durant la procédure de réparation iPad. Attendez au moins deux minutes avant de réchauffer à nouveau votre iOpener.

    • Si vous avez un iOpener souple, vous pouvez le plier pour chauffer en même temps le coin gauche en haut et le haut de votre iPad.

  18. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 18, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 18, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 18, image 3 de 3
    • Glissez le médiator le long du coin en haut à gauche de l'iPad pour décoller l'adhésif.

    I broke the screen glass of my ipad just right when I moved the guitar pick towards the upperleft corner of the screen as depicted in your instructions. (Whereas my ipad screen was in perfect condition : no scratches, not broken at all...). There must be something wrong here. Be advised: move the pick towards the corner with caution !!!

    Pierre-Aurélien - Réponse

  19. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 19, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 19, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 19, image 3 de 3
    • Déplacez le médiator le long du coin supérieur de l'iPad et continuez jusqu'à atteindre la caméra.

    • La troisième photo indique l'emplacement de la caméra frontale et son logement.

    • Évitez de déplacer le médiator sur la caméra. Vous pourriez malencontreusement déposer de la colle sur la lentille, voire l'endommager irrémédiablement. Les étapes suivantes détailleront comment éviter ces désagréments au mieux.

  20. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 20, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez le médiator afin de n'utiliser que son extrémité. Déplacez-le précautionneusement le long de la caméra avant.

    At this point I’d use paper tape on the margins of the screen to mask off areas where you should use caution with the pick. Its just a visual reminder not to run the picker too deep in these areas. They are: the camera lens, lower right hand side and where the two antenna are along the base. Step 6 third image highlights these areas.

    Rusty - Réponse

  21. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 21, image 3 de 3
    • Laissez le médiator dans l'iPad juste après avoir passé la caméra.

    • Prenez un second médiator et insérez-le à gauche de la caméra. Ensuite, déplacez-le vers le coin gauche afin de retirer le restant d'adhésif.

  22. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 22, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 22, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 22, image 3 de 3
    • Enfoncez le médiator précédent plus profondément dans l'iPad et déplacez-le vers le coin droit pour continuer de détacher la vitre.

  23. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 23, image 1 de 1
    • Laissez le médiator au coin de l'iPad afin d'éviter que la vitre recolle.

    • Chauffez à nouveau l'iOpener et placez-le sur le côté de l'iPad, le long des boutons de volume et de verrouillage.

  24. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 24, image 2 de 2
    • Déplacez le médiator le long du coin supérieur droit afin de retirer l’adhésif.

    • Laissez le médiator en place pour éviter que l'adhésif réadhère à la vitre. Prenez-en un nouveau pour la prochaine étape.

  25. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 25, image 3 de 3
    • Insérez un nouveau médiator et déplacez-le vers le milieu du côté droit de l'iPad, afin de retirer l'adhésif.

    • Les nappes de l'écran sont approximativement situées dans la moitié inférieure de l'iPad. Arrêtez de déplacer le médiator quand vous arrivez à environ 10 cm du bas de l'iPad.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - Réponse

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - Réponse

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - Réponse

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - Réponse

    I also damaaged the digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. Use just the tip of the opening pick.

    Dean Gross - Réponse

    People need to realize iFixit routinely duplicates instructions for more than one type of repair/replacement. However, all of the comments are combined, which leads to confusion.

    laura moon - Réponse

  26. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 26, image 1 de 1
    • Laissez le médiator en place et placez l'iOpener, chaud, sur le bouton home et le bas de l'écran.

  27. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 27, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 27, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 27, image 3 de 3
    • Déplacez le médiator situé en bas, à gauche, vers le coin de l'iPad, pour détacher l'adhésif.

    • Laissez le médiator en place, sur le coin. N'allez pas plus loin et ne le retirez pas.

    • Vous pouvez voir, sur la troisième photo, la cavité du bouton home et les deux antennes, situées dans la partie inférieure de l'iPad.

    • Les prochaines étapes donneront les directives précises afin d'éviter d'endommager les composants. Ne chauffez et faites levier qu'aux endroits expressément indiqués.

  28. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 28, image 3 de 3
    • Laissez le médiator utilisé dans la dernière étape en place pour éviter que l'adhésif réadhère.

    • Avec un nouveau médiator, faites le glisser en douceur du côté gauche de l'antenne vers le bouton home.

    • Faites glisser le médiator uniquement de l'extérieur vers le centre de l'iPad. Ne revenez pas en arrière, vous pourriez endommager l'antenne.

    • Si vous devez faire glisser le médiator une nouvelle fois, réinsérez-le à partir du côté gauche et faites-le glisser vers la droite.

    • Laissez le médiator en place avant d'aller plus loin.

  29. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 29, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 29, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 29, image 3 de 3
    • Prenez un nouveau médiator et insérez-le juste à droite du précédent.

    • Faites-le glisser à partir du bouton home, en allant vers la droite et en utilisant seulement l'extrémité du médiator, pour retirer l'adhésif.

  30. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 30, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 30, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 30, image 3 de 3
    • Comme l'adhésion a été diminuée, vous pouvez maintenant insérer le médiator dans le coin en bas à droite. Faites-le glisser vers la gauche et arrêtez-vous juste avant le bouton home.

    • Comme pour l'antenne du côté gauche, faites glisser le médiator seulement de l'extérieur vers l'intérieur. Faute de quoi vous abîmerez l'antenne.

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - Réponse

    Sadly only after damaging my home button flex cable, I read your comment. There should be a big warning here as it is very easy to tear this cable.

    Bouke - Réponse

    I also damaged the home button cable. Check the placement of the cables in steps 37-44.

    Paul Klein - Réponse

  31. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 31, image 1 de 1
    • Faites chauffer à nouveau l'iOpener et appliquez-le du côté des boutons de volume de l'iPad.

  32. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 32, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 32, image 2 de 2
    • Faites très attention avec cette étape. Prenez votre temps et assurez-vous que l'adhésif reste chaud, mou et que vous avez décollé tout l'adhésif avec un médiator tout autour de l'iPad. N'hésitez pas à faire une pause et de réchauffer l'adhésif.

    • Du côté opposé aux boutons de volume, vous devez avoir deux médiators insérés dans chaque coin. Faites tourner délicatement les médiators de manière à soulever doucement la vitre, séparant le reste d'adhésif le long du bord de la nappe de l'écran.

    • Si vous sentez de la résistance, laissez les médiators en place, réchauffez l'iOpener et appliquez-le de nouveau sur les zones problématiques.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    That won't happen if you use gloves and protective glasses!

    tanner85 - Réponse

  33. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 33, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 33, image 2 de 2
    • Soulevez lentement et doucement pour continuer à détacher l'adhésif le long du bord de l'écran.

    This is very tricky if the screen is cracked (which I would assume most people are replacing the screen because of a crack). Use duct tape to try and secure the shards as much as possible, but be prepared for shards flying everywhere. Search for videos on cracked screen removal, there’s a good ifixit one. Maybe they can link it here? I finally was able to get it all by using a heat gun and metal spudger/razor like the guy in the video.

    Janie Hughes - Réponse

  34. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 34, image 3 de 3
    • En tenant l'écran d'une main, utilisez un médiator pour couper l'adhésif restant.

    • Faites attention de ne pas couper ni endommager les nappes de l'écran.

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - Réponse

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - Réponse

    The front camera has a black bezel cover but it is attached to the broken glass digitizer. Peel it off and save it. I plan to tack glue it to the camera instead of gluing it back to the new digitizer glass. It has two alignment bumps so maybe it doesn’t need gluing to either side but I found it on the ground when it came off of the the broken digitizer. I almost tossed it as part of the broken glass.

    Robin - Réponse

  35. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 35, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 35, image 2 de 2
    • Une fois que tout l'adhésif a été séparé, ouvrez le panneau frontal comme une page dans un livre et reposez-le sur votre plan de travail.

    • Lors du remontage, nettoyez les restes de l'adhésif de la coque (et du panneau frontal si vous le réutilisez) avec de l'alcool isopropylique et remplacez l'adhésif par des bandes adhésives pré-découpées en suivant les instructions de notre tutoriel pour la pose des bandes adhésives de l'écran.

    • Une nappe est vite coincée entre le panneau frontal et le châssis de l'iPad lors du remontage. Faites attention aux nappes et veillez à les replier et insérer délicatement sous le châssis. Si vous appuyez trop et que vous aplatissez complètement les plis d'une nappe, vous risquez de l'endommager de façon irréversible.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - Réponse

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - Réponse

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - Réponse

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - Réponse

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - Réponse

    My screen from ifixit had the rigid flaps with adhesive also. I removed adhesive and adhered it to the new glass, it worked fine and solved the problem with the flaps not pushing down.

    Jackson Taylor - Réponse

    if there is adhesive glue on the inside of the digitizer and the top of the LCD what do you recommend to clean it.

    scprillwitz - Réponse

    Isopropyl alcohol (and certainly not ethanol!!!)

    Pierre-Aurélien -

    Don’t throw away your old screen until you take the home button off of it! My screen was shattered and I kind of have a phobia of broken glass, so I bundled it all up and threw it into the trash can immediately. Next day when I went to continue the job I was sad that my roommate had finally taken out the trash for once and my home button was halfway to the dump by then.

    Sparky - Réponse

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol is not really working well. I am using it with a qtip. Is there a certain way you recommend in order to actually the adhesive off?

    Brooke Parkhouse - Réponse

    Yes, the flap seemed to want to be attached to the glass, not go down the slot. All went together well, except that my home button doesn’t work. I suspect the connections wasn’t right, although I did my best to (gently but firmly) push it in. Too late to do anything about it now.

    Mussollini - Réponse

    I got my repair kit yesterday, had a go at it today on my iPad Air 1 (A1474). I’ve opened up phones before (the kind that open up easily), but first time dealing with a glued-together device. Anyway I got there, and now I’m putting things back together. I have a question regarding the pre-cut adhesive to hold the glass back on. Is it meant to be applied to the glass, or the frame?

    SHL - Réponse

    Ok never mind - I just looked at the digitizer for this iPad and saw that the adhesive is preapplied to the glass, which confirms my suspicions. Now I can proceed and bring this repair to a conclusion.

    SHL -

    And it’s done! Doing the battery calibration now, but I’m relieved that the battery is working. I did turn on the iPad prior to removing the blue strips on the adhesive to make sure it was working before committing to fix the glass in place.

    To reiterate the point, the adhesive strips go on the glass. The way they are packaged with the clear plastic makes it go very smoothly.

    There are 2 oversize pieces of plastic sandwiching the adhesive sections. These keep the strips in their original shape free of dust off until you are ready to use them. Once you remove these, there is another clear plastic strip which has an inside edge that matches the adhesive section’s inside edge. This plastic allows you to position the adhesive accurately on the glass while keeping your fingers away from it. This is especially important on the right side where the digitizer cables are. Once you remove this clear plastic, there is still the blue film with pull tabs. You can leave these on to do a power up test, then remove them. …cont

    SHL -

    … After doing the power on check, you can also check that all the buttons work, home button, camera, speakers etc. Then I turned it off (probably wasn’t necessary), removed the blue strips and pressed the glass in. For this last step I suggest lining up the left edge of the glass with its corresponding edge in the aluminum shell, and then gently pressing down on the right side. ALSO: while doing this last step, look carefully at the right side for the ribbon cables there. In my case (reusing original digitizer), they were protruding just a smidge, so I used the spudger to just nudge it a bit and they got into place, and then I pressed the right side down. I then pressed down all around the edges of the glass.

    SHL -

    quick question... if this is a replacement, why are we worrying about the digitizer cables? My glass is shattered pretty bad on the to the left of the home button where he says to work. So I can't apply suction cup there. I don't understand the need to be concerned about the cables if the digitizer is going to be trashed...

    Michael M - Réponse

    I'd like to add when at this stage and you notice some of the old black adhesive may be hanging off the digitizer DO NOT remove any of it. Wait until you have to thing fully removed. It's way too easy to tear one of the cables if you try removing it now.

    Lindsey W - Réponse

  36. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, LCD: étape 36, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, LCD: étape 36, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, LCD: étape 36, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez tout morceau de bande adhésive recouvrant les vis de l'écran LCD.

  37. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 37, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes fixant l'écran LCD.

    • Trois vis de 4,0 mm

    • Une vis de 4,8 mm

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - Réponse

    **I believe you mean the “top Right corner” Is where the longer screw goes.. not left.

    Amanda Felske -

    ! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box

    John Smith - Réponse

    Where can I buy these screws please ?

    Anthony Roberts - Réponse

  38. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 38, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 38, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 38, image 3 de 3
    • N'essayez pas d'enlever complètement l'écran LCD. Il est toujours connecté à l'iPad par plusieurs câbles du côté du bouton home. Soulevez-le uniquement du côté de la caméra avant.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour faire levier sur l'écran LCD et le retirer juste assez de son emplacement pour le saisir avec vos doigts.

    • Retournez l'écran LCD de l'iPad comme la page d'un livre, en le soulevant près de la caméra et le tournant sur l'extrémité du bouton home de la coque arrière.

    • Opérez délicatement et gardez un œil sur les nappes LCD lorsque vous retournez l'écran.

    • Posez l'écran LCD sur sa face avant pour accéder aux nappes d'écran.

    • Mettez l'écran LCD sur une surface douce, propre et non pelucheuse.

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    Thank you, very much, for this tip.

    rcrandall85 -

    At this step, possibly depending on date of manufacture, there may be black silicone present on/around the four screws that mount the display. It needs to be carefully scraped away and the two screw mount holes at the top of the screen pried up and away from the chassis. Between the chassis and the plastic portion of the mounting frame, there is a slim sheet of metal. Be sure to pry this off WITH the mounting frame. It is part of it. DO NOT try to separate it.

    rcrandall85 - Réponse

  39. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 39, image 3 de 3
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Battery Blocker
    $3.99
    J'achète
    • Retirez la seule vis cruciforme de 2,3 mm fixant le connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère.

    • Pour réduire le risque d'un court-circuit, vous pouvez utiliser un médiator pour isoler la batterie ou un médiator découpé afin de débrancher la batterie.

    • Soyez très prudent lorsque vous isolez la batterie à l'aide du médiator. Les contacts de la batterie sont facilement endommagés, ce qui entraîne des dommages irréversibles.

    • Faites glisser le médiator en dessous de la zone de connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère et laissez-le en place pendant votre travail.

    • S'il vous est difficile de faire loger le médiator sous la carte mère, vous pouvez essayer d'utiliser une carte à jouer pour déconnecter la batterie.

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - Réponse

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - Réponse

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - Réponse

    Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise

    John Marx -

    I don’t know if it applies to the iPad Air, but I saw elsewhere in my researches in reference to a iPad mini (or was it an iPod mini?) that disconnecting the LCD and/or digitizer with the battery still connected will blow a “fuse” for the backlight. Might yours still be working, just with no screen illumination whatsoever? Dunno. Just a thought.

    It apparently can be repaired, but is no longer a DIY job.

    Tim -

    try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.

    Bryan Cruse - Réponse

    A replacement of the battery connector is required if pins are bent should you get power on or charge issue after battery disconnection. This can be replaced with the right tools and low melt solder to remove the connector and replace.

    Best method to disconnect battery is to carefully lift the logic board near the battery connector enough to slip a piece of thin plastic or paper between the batter connector and the logic board battery connector and pins.

    Failing to isolate battery so can result in blown back light or touch filters or diodes in backlight circuit.

    At the very least run down the battery flat prior to repair but you are really best to isolate battery.

    markduff - Réponse

    From a repair point of view. This connector is a royal pain. For assembly it's great, well, nearly great.

    This connector is SOLDERED to the motherboard side. Never lever this on the motherboard side, I will call it the right hand side. It will break leaving it's soldered pins behind. Yes I did it.

    The pins, on the battery side of this connector, just rest on the batteries plated pads. They are kept under tension by the screw. It should be noted though that removal of the screw will not disconnect the connector pins from the battery pads. Natural tension is still present.

    I suggest strongly that you take a look at the battery connector online to see the nature of the pins and you will see that some are quite delicate.

    The tools purpose is to raise the battery side of the connector ; the left side, so there is some clearance between the pins and the batteries pads. If you have seen a picture of this connector then you will realise the potential of damage to this connector and will have a better idea of what to do.

    Biskwit2 - Réponse

    Contd.

    Lifting the connector and simultaneously sliding a thin piece of card or plastic under the pins should be done carefully. In fact, to minimise damage I just slid it under ONE of the main battery pins, plus or minus, which are in the middle and quite robust compared with the tiddlers on the side of the connector.

    The second point, the battery and the motherboard have protection circuitry. When I broke my connector the battery dropped to 0.5V at the terminals. Connecting the charger, when all the connections were sound and not shorted raised it from the dead back to over 3.2V

    Biskwit2 - Réponse

    I replaced the battery, and got things hooked backup. For the test, the screen came on, digitizer seemed to be functioning fine. But I couldn’t get it to charge. I used the i-fixit battery blocker by using my spooger to put a little up pressure on the board, and then sliding the blocker in. I don’t think I damaged the pins, but its possible. This is a friends ipad, and its obviously been dropped a few times. I started eye balling the charging port, it LOOKS ok, but looks can be deceiving. When plugged in, even trying different cables, the ipad is not showing the charging symbol. Some of the comments here seem to imply, if I damaged the battery connection pins, I would still get a charging symbol. My question is, if I damaged those battery connector pins, would the ipad show the charging icon or not? Should I be looking at replacing the charging port?

    Mike Lindsay - Réponse

    If you gently use the plastic opening tool as shown in step 94 to lift the board slightly it makes it MUCH easier to slide the battery blocker in.

    Kevin - Réponse

  40. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 40, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 1,4 mm du cache de la nappe d'écran.

    Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.

    Brian Anderson - Réponse

  41. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 41, image 2 de 2
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites délicatement levier sur le cache de la nappe d'écran pour le soulever de la carte mère.

    • Le connecteur de la nappe d'écran est collé sur la face inférieure du cache, donc ne poussez pas le spudger trop loin sous le support, ou vous risquez d'endommager le connecteur.

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - Réponse

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: Comment enlever une vis cassée

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - Réponse

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - Réponse

  42. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 42, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez l'écran LCD.

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.

    B. A. Computer Services - Réponse

    If the battery blocking method is outdated and dangerous, why not show us the new, safer method? Just a thought.

    hdrjunkie - Réponse

    There is a separate guide for replacing the outer glass ;)

    Gerald Bowen - Réponse

  43. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Panneau frontal complet: étape 43, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Panneau frontal complet: étape 43, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez la bande adhésive qui recouvre le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home.

    I totally skipped steps 39-98 I didn’t see any need to remove all these components and the logic board just to get the battery out. I gently pried up the board where the battery connector goes in, slipped it out, and slipped in the new one.

    Seth Childers - Réponse

    That is a great tip. There is plenty of space inside the case to lever out the battery without taking out all of the components. I laid the iPad on top of a large bean bag, heated for 3 minutes in the microwave. After 4-5 minutes, I was able to lever out the battery with the spudger and the credit cards. It came out after a few minutes of careful levering and cramming the credit cards under the battery. I unscrewed the earphone connector and carefully taped it back to the iPad housing with paint tape to have more room to maneuver.

    Jonathan Koehler -

    I second this.

    Just be careful to make sure you don’t squish or tear any wires or anything else surrounding when you’re fighting with the batteries, and it’s still way easier than removing everything else in there first.

    I’ll add one bit, though. The hole in the battery connector that accepts the screw through the logic board also apparently slips over a pin in which the screw seats. I couldn’t see that. So when I got the last bit of battery adhesive to let go, the pin tore out the battery connector hole. Since I was replacing the battery, it wasn’t a problem, but did produce a little conductive piece that I had to fish out before putting anything back together. Wouldn’t want that little torn out piece running around in there to short something out later.

    Also, that pin will locate the battery correctly, so that in one of the last steps of reassembly, the battery connection screws together properly. Make sure you find it before the battery adhesive grabs on to the back of the case.

    Tim -

    Careful removing the tape. The home button has a zif connector and if you aren’t careful the tape can rip the zif flap right off. You might have to hold it down while you pull it off or pull the tape from a different direction to make sure you dont tear the zif tab off.

    Sarah Ybarra - Réponse

  44. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 44, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire pivoter le clapet de retenue du connecteur ZIF de la nappe du bouton home.

    • Doucement, tirez la nappe du bouton home à l'horizontale, hors du connecteur ZIF.

    I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

    Moses Roman - Réponse

    Moses Roman

    Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

    I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

    Bilal Kinali - Réponse

    I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

    The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

    daviddesignbristol - Réponse

    I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

    Please give us some feedback.

    Elektromic - Réponse

    Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

    RayM - Réponse

    To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

    Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

    Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

    Have fun!

    Josh - Réponse

    Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

    Luis Tamborrell -

    Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

    Neil Davis -

    Just fitted the screen, the digitizer works, display all good but I had a message saying I could not use touch ID and the home button doesn’t work at all…is this expected?

    Paul Kelly - Réponse

    I break the ZIF connector. Is tat touch connecter.?

    aiyathurai Aathee - Réponse

    How do you take the ribbon cable off from the home button site???

    BP Thompson - Réponse

    Pull the ribbon horizontally out, not up

    Rusty - Réponse

  45. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 45, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 45, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 45, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle pour ouvrir avec précaution les deux connecteurs des câbles du tactile directement de leur prise.

    • Pour éviter d'endommager votre iPad, ne faites levier que sur les connecteurs eux-mêmes, et non sur leur prise sur la carte mère.

    What are those connectors for because i kinda half broke the left one on the screen on the glass frame and now the lcd wont turn on

    SuperCow_man - Réponse

  46. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 46, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 46, image 2 de 2
    • Décollez soigneusement la nappe du bouton home de l'adhésif la fixant au boîtier arrière.

    THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

    scottgogos - Réponse

    On the replacement screen I received from you, the home screen ribbon cable does not fully seat inside the Zif connector like the original and will not lock in place as a result. It seems too fat. Any tips to make it work?

    Greg DeCelle - Réponse

    I can’t think of any reason for that other than it’s the wrong display for your model, or it’s defective. Double-check the model very carefully and make sure you ordered/received a compatible part. If you ordered from iFixit, contact customer support directly for returns or exchanges. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I didn’t receive any of the two sided tape…I assume it needed to be ordered separately??

    So, when I removed the glass, the bottom cable tore and I have to replace it. The video is not as clear regarding replacement. The old button had a round rubber gasket but the new one does not. No inst. how to re-use it. I can’t attach and keep in place the new button.

    Michael Goss - Réponse

    In a previous repair, i broke the zif, what you want to do is hold it down while removing the tape, otherwise it will pull the parts up with it.

    Since it was broke i put a piece of electrical tape on top for the pressure the zif would push down, then another piece from the screw hole to the bend in the cable, so it does not come loose when putting back together.

    Neil Rogers - Réponse

  47. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 47, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 47, image 2 de 2
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Polyimide Tape
    $9.99
    J'achète
    • Retirez l'ensemble du panneau frontal.

    • Lors du remontage, assurez-vous de bien essuyez toute poussière ou empreinte de doigts sur la face intérieure de la vitre frontale pour avoir un écran bien propre.

    • Si votre nouvel écran a des problèmes d'entrée tactile «fantôme», vous pouvez y parer en ajoutant une couche de ruban isolant très mince, comme la bande adhésive polyimide (Kapton). sur les zones entourées en rouge au dos du panneau. Les panneaux iFixit sont isolés correctement et ne devraient pas nécessiter la pose de bande adhésive.

    • An cas d'isolation incorrecte, ces zones de la vitre tactile peuvent provoquer la mise à terre vers d'autres composants et donc causer des problèmes d'entrée tactile.

    • L'isolation n'est pas visible à l'œil nu et ne correspond pas aux bandes en mousse anti-poussières qu'on trouve dans beaucoup d'iPad.

    In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

    Joe Kazura - Réponse

    the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

    TJ Hellmuth - Réponse

    The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

    I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

    This was a very good ifix ii

    Rowell - Réponse

    Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

    xsubguy - Réponse

    This is what I need too!

    Sarah Ybarra -

    It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

    Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

    Randall Hooper - Réponse

    I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

    tsolorio - Réponse

    Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

    Micah Sledge - Réponse

    Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

    Ronny Barlow - Réponse

    @baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My digitizer kit from ifixit also looks like it is missing the polyimide tape on the digitizer. Can someone confirm that i do not need to get the tape with the original ifixit kit and just slap the digitizer on there?

    Alex -

    what is the difference between the right and left antenna?. My right antenna is damage and cant find a replacement. Can I use only the left one?

    Daniel C - Réponse

    I did not realize that aftermarket screens (besides the one ifixit sells) do not come with adhesive strips. Well worth the time to figure out what kind of adhesive you’re going to use to re-adhere the glass before you begin. Stopping while you’re so close to the end of the repair (or having to open the ipad up again after the screen doesn’t stick back down) is slightly frustrating.

    Robert - Réponse

    I used a b-7000. 48 h cure time.

    Jean masaoka -

    Thank you for your guide, it helped me fix my son’s iPad!

    Bill - Réponse

    Just wanna say thank you. I replaced my LCD and digitizer today…. took a LOT longer to get that adhesive off than I expected. And the IOpener busted in my microwave despite following all directions (eg only 30 sec at a time, out for at least 10 min before reheating. So that sucked. Turns out the rice in a sock worked pretty well too.

    GC Mitts - Réponse

    Regarding assembly: even with carefully tucking the ribbon cables down the side while reassembling, it’s still hard to get that area to stick down.

    Gary Wolfe - Réponse

    Some advice when reassembling that I have learned in the hard way.

    One good hint is to those who buy replacement parts that are not exactly the original ones. Some of the parts come with a 3M adhesive tape on the tab of the flex cables (I guess original parts are already folded and glued). I would strongly recommend to be very careful when you try to glue it on the front panel and maybe watch a video on how to fold it properly, so as not to fold or pinch the flex cable on an unrepairable way. Also, some of the low cost parts come with a very strong protection sticker on the front glass. It is advisable that you peel off the sticker before reassembling the ipad in order to not end up ruining the glue that was supposed to hold the front panel .

    Jean masaoka - Réponse

  48. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Ensemble bouton home: étape 48, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Ensemble bouton home: étape 48, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi, Ensemble bouton home: étape 48, image 3 de 3
    • Commencez à décoller délicatement la nappe du bouton home à l'arrière du panneau frontal.

    • Continuez à décoller jusqu'à ce que vous atteigniez la protection métallique sur la nappe.

    START using extreme caution at this point. This ribbon IS VERY FRAGILE, especially after the silver rectangle/shield. That gold piece is attached to the cable.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Réponse

  49. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 49, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 49, image 2 de 2
    • Insérez un médiator entre la protection métallique et le panneau frontal et retirez-la délicatement de la vitre tactile.

    I lifted the metal shield from the outside edge so not to tear the ribbon cable. I think I even used the razor blade (the tool of last resort).

    Robin - Réponse

  50. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 50, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 50, image 2 de 2
    • Décollez délicatement le contact métallique du support du bouton home.

    I ripped the ribbon cable out of the button at this step… be extremely gentle!

    James - Réponse

    So what exactly does this metal contact do? Can the HB work without that single gold contact?

    Perrin Aybara - Réponse

    Can anyone answer this question? The gold metal rectangle contact ripped off even horizontally with the rest of the home button cable. Do I need to order a whole new home button with cable? Or will I at least get functionality from the home button, only missing that little gold rectangle ?

    PC Ops -

    I ripped mine. Reattached the metal contact to the cable with some tape as best as I could. The button and touch ID work, so not sure if the metal contact is absolutely needed…? If it’s just for grounding?

    Joshua Schoemmell -

    Thank you for showing the bracket up close!

    Dvi - Réponse

    EXTREME CAUTION!!! The little metal contact is very fragile. I ripped mine off. Well, when I say ripped I mean I breathed on it.

    I would suggest maybe warming that part up before pulling and don’t just pull up from the main ribbon. Work it slowly.

    David Raines - Réponse

    CAUTION!!! that little gold contact got me too!! Please update the instructions to include this.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Réponse

    Did you find out if the home button still works without the rectangular gold contact?

    PC Ops -

    I wish I didn’t peel this last piece off, I don’t think you need to. It seems to be what keeps the bracket lined up over the button. Now I have to try to glue it back on perfectly so the bracket is centered over the home button.

    Robin - Réponse

  51. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 51, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 51, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 51, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour retirer le support du bouton home à l'arrière du panneau frontal.

    • Lorsque vous refixez le support du bouton home, utilisez un morceau de ruban adhésif ou double face pour fixer le support en place.

    • Une fois que vous avez séparé un côté du support du bouton home, saisissez fermement le support et enlevez-le du panneau frontal.

    I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.

    Micah Sledge - Réponse

    I had this problem too. Very frustrating. Not sure what I’d do to fix this. If you are repairing this for someone else, then super glue would not be the best option.

    MYMS! - Réponse

    I don’t see why iFixit does not simply sell an optional iPad screen with a new home button pre-installed - other competing companies do it, and with iFixit’s pro reputation, having a pre-installed option would certainly be an excellent sales option. My 2¢ worth.

    dlcatftwin - Réponse

    The home button that came with your iPad is the only one that will allow touchID to function. This is why this must be migrated from the old to the new screen. Of course, if your iPad does not have touchID, this is not a concern.

    Robert -

    TIP FOR HOME BUTTON REMOVAL

    I found it to be simpler by using the same pry tool shown in the image and pry the tab furthest from the flex cable. Its an easy start knowing that if you damage the cable you can loose Touch ID permanently.

    My steps were basically as follows in this specific order:

    1. Using a guitar pick, release the cable from the adhesive and SLOWLY lift up the cable and the components with it

    2. Once you reach the tabs that hold the home button in place, pry the tab furthest from the flex cable (this requires a little more force)

    3. Once the tab furthest from the home button is lifted away, you can hold on to the metal piece (The whole tab) and lift it away safely.

    4. Using your finger, press in the home button to release it from the glass and your done.

    Narayan Ramcharitar - Réponse

    After replacement m home button works fine, but it’s very loose in the housing. I can tip it around by moving my fingers to the edges. Any ideas what I did wrong?

    Mike van Grunsven - Réponse

    I had to use far more pressure to remove the bracket than I was comfortable with and when it came loose it went flying. Re-attaching is easy, but I used some hobby glue to secure it in place, so if the screen breaks again, that part is NOT coming off again. I’m guessing because I did this I don’t have the “depressed” issues that others have described, it seems to be like new at this point.

    David Yutzy - Réponse

    I agree, the bracket needs glueing when refitting. Replaced the glass on my iPad and after a couple of days the home button came loose and stopped working. Now i just broke the glass when opening the iPad to fix the home button bracket. I love my life! :-)

    Mats Fredholm - Réponse

    I used a piece of the rectangular section of an adhesive strip cut to the exact size of the home button bracket feet to reattach it to the digitizer for reassembly. It is very strong and worked better than double sided tape or glue.

    Clifford Sullivan - Réponse

    agree. I did same. Also do not forget to remove protective film from the inner side of the new digitizer. Do it before you start reassembly.

    Igor Kapitanker -

  52. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 52, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 52, image 2 de 2
    • Appuyez sur le bouton home depuis le côté extérieur de la vitre tactile pour faire céder l'adhésif le tenant en place.

    • Appuyez lentement. L'adhésif est attaché à un joint délicat qui se déchire facilement.

    Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only

    Joe Hall - Réponse

    Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Buy an extra home button adhesive gasket. The adhesive from the original will not be reusable

    John Marx - Réponse

    I second this advice. I skipped it the first time, and the home button was too wiggly (although it worked). Now that I’ve replaced the screen a 2nd time (ugh), this time adding a new gasket, it’s a bit more firm, but still more wiggly than originally. If you don’t mind the button being lose, you probably can reuse the gasket, but if I have to do this again, I’ll probably get another gasket.

    Gary Wolfe -

    Yep, tore mine even as delicate as could be. I would highly recommend hitting the home button with a heat gun prior to attempting to remove. On the plus side, the replacement gaskets are cheap and easy enough to replace.

    Kevin Chatterton II - Réponse

    Notice the sharp crease in the ribbon cable near the home button? I thought I bent it at some point but it was already there.

    Robin - Réponse

    My screen was damaged in such a way that removing the old gasket didn't tell me how to install the new one.

    Sandy Kilday - Réponse

  53. Remplacement du panneau frontal complet de l'iPad 5 Wi-Fi: étape 53, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez l'ensemble bouton home.

    Be very careful !!!!

    Easy Repair - Réponse

    I did a screen replacement and it’s impossible to place the home button bracket in the correct position, now the home button doesn’t click anymore. Works, but you have to press harder.

    fjaroski - Réponse

    Given the delicacy of this stage, I believe it behooves iFixit to offer a panel replacement option with a new Home button pre-installed.

    Others do; with iFixit’s reputation, such a purchase option would be a welcome, stellar addition to its inventory. Yes, you would have to cancel your Touch-ID setting prior to repair, but that’s a small inconvenience to having to negotiate such a procedure. My 2¢ worth.

    Thanks, iFixit, for the excellent instructions

    dlcatftwin - Réponse

    I second this - tore the home button cable during disassembly and ordered another home button assembly just to figure out that I need the gasket and holder as well as it was not included. -

    Michael Berneis -

    Yes - the metal contact on the home button tore… now I have to figure out how to do another repair. Also, my replacement screen comes with plastic on both sides and multiple tabs in different colors. Now I’m too scared to remove those for fear of ripping something.. you should have glass replace directions here too.

    Anu Anand - Réponse

    Hi sir

    Iam try replace ditigizer on iPad 6th gen

    Will my home button and finger print if I replace the home to another the home button will if I buy it from you guys

    John Clark - Réponse

    replaced the display with new home button assembly, new gasket, and holder - button works but fingerprint sensor not anymore - It would be great to have detailed instructions for the complete the home button assembly with all the different parts, not only the teardown for reference. - i.e. it seems you need to push the button through the gasket before assembly so the cable leaves inside and the order is glass-button-gasket-holder.

    Michael Berneis - Réponse

    The article explicitly states that the Home Button and the Motherboard are a BONDED PAIR. If you replace one without the other, Touch ID will stop working. This is why the instruction say you have to retain the button.

    Matt Spriggs - Réponse

    While I’m a fairly tech savvy person, telling people to reverse the steps is ridiculous—you need to show people what to expect. Second, include the home button on the new screen sale. I’m in the middle of the repair at this point, I’ve given you $100 and this seriously frustrating, especially when the home button you sell (which I had to buy after the screen, because I inadvertently tore off a bit) DOESN”T include the proper adhesive. PS—trying to get the adhesive on the new button is a practice in torture.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Réponse

    Now the adhesive ring in on the old glass and rips apart if you pull it off. I think you don’t need the adhesive ring but it keeps the button splash proof. I am going to use tiny amounts of glue but all the more reason to buy a new assy just for that ring.

    Robin - Réponse

    I had to notch out the glass adhesive just slightly where bottom right corner of the home button bracket sits against it. It is curved and needed to be squared off to match the bracket. I held the ribbon cable, button and bracket in place with tape before I glued the bracket. I also used a flashlight behind the bracket and button gap to see that the bump on the bracket was lined up with the button’s switch.

    Robin - Réponse

    I'm quite disappointed the fact that this is a replacement guide but does not include re-assembly steps.

    We ordered a new home button and gasket for an iPad 5, which works with the iPad 6 home button as well.

    Neither guide has re-assembly instructions for the home button.

    My customer service is important and I would like to see better guides that include disassembly and reassembly steps.

    I need to know how to properly apply a home button gasket to the home button.

    If I am missing something, please let me know.

    PS. It's not good practice to use metal tools so close to the main board. An insolated pair would be more ideal.

    Will Helbing - Réponse

    The small black dot on the home button microswitch comes off no matter how careful you are. Home button will not work properly if you loose the black dot. I have done 5-6 repairs and on 4 of them the black dot just fell off. I have been successful using a small piece of Kapton tape and reinstalling the black dot in the center of the home button microswitch.

    tomgeorge - Réponse

    I also removed a metal ring that sits between the gasket and the glass. It has the same shape of the gasket, and it’s glued to the glass after removing the home button assembly. Used a thin double-sided tape with strong glue when reassembling; maybe B7000 glue would be easier.

    Andre Saito - Réponse

    It's so frustrating seeing these guides that just say “follow these steps in the reverse order" when I'm really searching for a technique and guidance on replacing the rubber gasket and and proper placement of the bracket so it clicks as it should and doesn't sink in.

    Calan Belvin - Réponse

    Agree with previous comments. Would be helpful to go over replacing the button gasket, and the actual reassembly instead of just ‘reverse order’.

    Janie Hughes - Réponse

    it would be nice to see how to re assemble when to pull backing off glue, how to add grommet, how to bend new wires in place to seat correctly

    Thomas Frank - Réponse

    Would I be able to use the new replacement home button as to go back to home page? Or is it just going to he for the decoration?

    shanparshan - Réponse

    I needed 6 hours for

    1) removing the cracked display glass with a scalpell,

    2) to remove the glue with glue remover,

    3) to install a new home button (because I cutted the homebutten flex-cable) and

    4) to glue the touchdisplay (digitizer) with T7000 diplay glue!!!. The delivered glueband on the digitizer shouldn't be used, because it is to weak.

    There is a HowTo missing to install a new home button. I also didn't found a new homebutton from iFixit. So I had to buy it somewere else.

    MAISY MOUSE - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

194 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

en fr

75%

Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›

Evan Noronha

Membre depuis le 02/05/15

223 223 Réputation

168 tutoriels rédigés

31 commentaires

Why is the 1st Gen iPad being shown in a 5th Gen tear down? Is it exactly the same minus the Touch ID home button?

Tim - Réponse

The 1st Gen iPad Air and iPad 5th Gen are virtually the same minus the touch ID

Trevor Brodie - Réponse

Will the fifth generation of iPad liquid crystal cover the sixth generation?

cscs6938 - Réponse

The 6th gen ipad has support for the Apple Pencil, whereas the 5th ipad doesn’t, so I don’t think that the 5th gen screen will work on a 6th gen ipad. iFixit sells a 6th gen screen for only a few bucks more than the 5th gen, so I would use that one.

Sarah Tomich -

Excellent tutorial! Precise, well written, and great pictures.

Eric Fassnacht - Réponse

OK so this might be nitpicking, repair was successful. Doing the process in reverse order, not quite accurate. The reverse order does not take into account the various shield plastic covers applied to keep everything clean. After you’ve re-installed the connectors and the various cables and installed the LCD. be sure to clean that puppy thoroughly under a bright light. I missed a tiny smudge at the bottom edge and it’s driving me nuts. The new digitizer cables are quite stiff and it takes some effort to get them in position without getting your fingers stuck to the adhesive while you’re working. The adhesive cover strip on the side of the cables is a bit tricky to remove as it is hindered by the conncted cables. Removing it first makes manipulating the digitizer assembly digfficult without messing up the adhesive. If you dont get the cables tucked away well the screen wont keep that edge down. Great teardown guide but the reassembly could use a few steps or just a note about tricks to get it done smoothly.

Michael King - Réponse

I’ll second this. Some additional detail on this part of the reassembly would help immensely.

cskellum4 -

Agreed. This should be mentioned, I had the same issue.

Robert -

Agree that there needs to be a reassembly manual.

- On my digitizer, the dust film conflicted with the positioning of the digitizer cable. I had to temporarily peel the film up in order to have a clear area to stick the cable down

- I stuck my home button cable to the dust film as well, in error, so finally, I peeled up that bottom quarter of the film and held it out of the way with tape, while I repositioned the digitizer and home button cables

- The digitizer adhesive interfered with the home button bracket, forcing it to be a little too far up. In hindsight, I should have peeled the adhesive backing from the home button bracket area and positioned the bracket a bit lower, instead of chickening, bock bock bock

- Peeling the left adhesive backing, then inserting the digitizer top left and then bottom left, then peeling the right adhesive backing and gently pushing the digitizer and home button cables in with a spudger before adhering top right and bottom right is absolutely necessary

Terrence Greenaway -

Some important things to do before and during re-assembly with a new digitizer:

1. Clean out ALL remaining glue/duct tape from the frame (I use a cotton swab and some gasoline)!

2. Check for sufficient duct tape on your new digitizer

3. Check to sufficiently insulate the conductor tracks (the bronze lining) on your new digitizer or you’ll most likely have ghost movements after re-assembly. E.g. insulation tape

4. Keep some super glue gel (NOT the liquid - use the GEL) ready and apply some shortly before re-assambly on the right side of the frame where the cables connect the digitizer to the Logicboard => The tape area is most likely too small on this edge to create an efficient enough bonding. The stiff cables often push the digitizer from the inside. To be safe so your new glas wont lift up, apply the superglue gel in this area.

5. After re-assembly heat the frame along the edges with a heatgun and use clips to hold the glas down with some pressure. Let it cool out with the clips on so the glue/tape bonds nicely.

Tristan Falkner - Réponse

Anybody using super glue on their repairs needs to have their hands slapped… If the mounting surfaces are properly cleaned, prepped and primed, the original style adhesive will bond the screen to the housing adequately. When super glue is used, it contaminates the mounting surface, preventing the adhesive to bond properly on any future repairs where the tech wants to do the repair properly. To prevent lifting near the flex cable, manipulate the thick part of flex so that it is curled in a bit - this will allow the flex to slide into its given area and prevent it from pushing up on the glass and breaking the adhesive bond.

Kevin - Réponse

Can we confirm that if we must replace the home button assembly we will lose some functionality on this device?

Kyle - Réponse

Excellent tutoriel. Tout est expliqué TRÈS précisément, étape par étape. Mon chien avait explosé l’écran en milliers de paillettes . Le démontage m’a pris 3 heures en prenant mon temps et en étant extrêmement minutieux. Une lampe grossissante du type qu’utilise les pêcheurs à la mouche en montage est un vrai plus. L’avantage de ce tutoriel, c’est qu’il explique par très petites étapes et plein de photos précises et riches en renseignements, le mode opératoire sans rien oublier. Les mêmes peuvent donc servir pour le montage et le démontage. Un conseil, tester l'écran avant de le coller car emporter dans l’action, je l’ai fait. Il a fallu que je le décolle à nouveau pour vérifier d’ou venait le souci. En conclusion, de tous les tutoriels que j’ai pu utilisés jusqu’à aujourd’hui, c’est le mieux détaillé et le plus précis. Félicitations à son Créateur avec un grand C.

Nathalie Battut - Réponse

“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order” is the kind of cop-out you’d find in a Chilton’s or Haynes auto repair manual, and not the exact methods and procedures, including tips for tucking tricky ribbon cables, that you’d find in a service or technical manual.

Scott S - Réponse

I have white lines at the top of my screen following reassembly. I think these come from the LCD. Is there a fix?

fiona_hodkinson - Réponse

Hello

Huh…. this is a headache….

Because I didn’t know that I need the original Home button somehow I damaged it.

So… somebody could tell me, what is my solution in my case, please?

As I see, I can’t buy a home button from 3rd parties with the Touch ID?

Is that correct?

Option 1 To buy it somewhere.

If not somebody could share where I can buy it, please.

Option 2 To get it maybe from an iPad that not working or as we knew it iPad for parts.

If yes, from which iPad i can take it? For sure 5th which other iPad have the same part as in the iPad 5 gen?

Vinnie - Réponse

-Great tutorial - took about 2.5 hours and works great.

-For those of you with a very cracked digitizer or one on which the suction cup otherwise won’t work (like mine), these are my suggestions:

1) cover the glass with clear packing tape so shards don’t get everywhere 2) heat up as directed, 3) use an xacto knife or razor blade to get under the edge of the glass in the spots directed for the pick, pry up with the knife, and put the pick in. Proceed as directed from there. In the “safe areas” you can use the knife to cut the adhesive as well, as an #11 xacto blade isn’t long enough to penetrate beyond the bezel.

-Getting the connectors reseated was the most nerve wracking part - they are hard to line up without any reference.

-The iFixit screen replacement has clear plastic tabs to remove. The order these should be removed in was not clear.

-The digitizer cables tend to get bunched under the right side of the digitizer, try to get these folded down and flattened before the final assembly.

richardeburgess - Réponse

Worked well for me.

zachary stertz - Réponse

Great tutorial. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I used a hairdryer as heat. I should have coughed up a few more bucks for the iopener. I had no luck with using tape to get suction on a cracked screen like I have done successfully on an iPhone. After a ton of heat I used a razor blade to peel up the digitizer edge and go from there with picks. You should also wear safety glasses as chips flew everywhere.

The worst part was cleaning the old glue and cleaning the screen before installing the new digitizer. Also those antennas at the bottom of the iPad are a bit fragile. I did not touch them with picks but I did damage one during cleaning of old adhesive. Seems to work fine though.

EDIT - I agree the guide could have used some tips for reassembly. The ribbon cables are a bit tricky to get folded in there and the adhesive complicated things. Also there is a clear protector on the inside of the digitizer.

ejmutnan - Réponse

What a waste of time and money. Had to break so much of it just to get the shattered glass out. Made everything worse. Had to do a separate order to get a new home button. Should have just got it repaired by someone. I Probably made it worse.

David Nerenberg - Réponse

I just finished this repair, and the biggest issue I had was removing the screen because it was so cracked. I could not follow any of the instructions for the removal of the screen as I could not get a suction cup to grip along the side, and when I tried applying clear packing tape or duct tape, the tape just pulled off the screen instead.

One part I do not like about the “To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.” line is there are a few points that could use some info when putting it back together. There is no comment about the adhesive strip across the flex cables and how it is supposed to bend over.

Trevor Bugera - Réponse

I recommend the use of this device, it is really very good and saves time

sunshine S-918E LCD Screen separator

Flavio - Réponse

Great guide, I’ve done 6 or 8 of these now, each one gets a little better. The trickiest part for me is getting the bracket and digitizer cables just right. My one question is what type of adhesive are people using for the home button bracket? After you remove it from the old panel, it’s definitely not sticky enough, and I don’t feel double sided tape is strong enough either. I’m looking for something like Apple uses on the newer iPads for the bracket where they put the adhesive around the outside of it.

David Arbaugh - Réponse

the ribbon cable on side is too thick , it is preventing the front panel from fitting properly , has anyone encountered this issue and able to fix it ?

Poro Gaming - Réponse

You can get it into side takes a bit of fiddling but it's porssible had some trouble with that as well but be careful and at some point you can fell that it falls a bit deeper in and you can then press it down slowly and carefully. if the stribs are not blocked from the cover or lcd panel.

P H -

Thanks a lot followed the steps and was careful with everything and fixed it without any problems at all very satisficed with this job and the parts are really top notch and the guides are awesome and does not leave anything out. Thanks a lot IFIXIT!

P H - Réponse

Hi there, I was wondering if you could actually make the reverse instruction steps a thing, so it's easier to reassemble. Thanks!

Gavin Stair (FireUpTheChems!) - Réponse

(Please everyone use safety glasses during disassembly. Prevented glass shatters in my one remaining good eye!)

Hi all,

I need some advice. I’m at step 28 where the guide says “Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws”. Instead of just peeling back a small part, I wrongly removed the entire tape, all around the display 😬 I don’t know what got into me, but after spending several hours on removing the broken digitizer I got a little enthusiastic by the ease of this removal.

So my question is: Should I replace the tape? And if so with what? And why was it there anyway?

Another question: there’s a thick layer of the residue from the old digitizer tape. How to best remove it? Using IPA and a cotton swab takes ages and forces some glue down in the frame.

Third question: how to best clean the display? There’s some sticky debris on it.

(Why it took me so long: the glass was broken a lot and to small pieces. Also repairing in 2D instead of 3D takes ages. Also I did not heat enough. I learnt not to stress and it helps!)

Jannn - Réponse

How does the home button go back on?

Mine does not fit and I have an extra ring with adhesive on it.

Kevin Greening - Réponse

Ajouter un commentaire

Nombre de vues :

Dernières 24 heures : 18

7 derniers jours : 147

30 derniers jours : 640

Total : 124,621