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Introduction
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer une vitre fissuré ou brisée d'un iPhone 6s Plus. Ceci inclut le retrait de l'ensemble caméra frontale et capteur, du blindage électromagnétique (EMI), et du bouton home avec nappe. Tous ces composant doivent être transférés à votre nouveau panneau frontal. Pour remplacer l'écran complet suivez ce tutoriel bien plus court.
Remarque : Il est important de transférer le bouton home d'origine au nouvel écran afin de garder la fonction Touch ID.
Vous pouvez également vous référez à ce tutoriel pour remplacer les pièces suivantes :
- La grille du haut-parleur interne
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plaque de protection de l'écran LCD
*L'autocollant de la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.
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Enlevez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,4 mm de chaque côté du connecteur Lightning.
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Vous pouvez également chauffer le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute à l'aide d'un iOpener ou d'un sèche-cheveux.
This is important. I’ve serviced a lot of iphones/ipads for my family as a hobby in the past.
The adhesive was so tight, I cracked the screen trying to pull it/pry it off.
I highly suggest heating at least the bottom edge enough to soften the adhesive
I would suggest that you are not shy with the hairdryer. A high heat on the bottom of the phone for at least a minute, if not more, if required.
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Fixez une ventouse en bas à gauche sur la vitre.
take out screws first!!
Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.
My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.
I broke my iphone screen in the first step!
Ok - just got my battery replacement kit and even got the opening kit for added insurance just in case. Settled down to startwork after carefully cleaning my (immaculate) screen - no scratches or anything, with rubbing alcohol, removing screws and warming with a hair dryer, only to find the suction cup provided in the kit is worse than useless! It won’t stick to the screen well at all. When it does - it pops off at the lightest pull :-( Now what do I do to get this started?!
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Soulevez la ventouse de façon ferme et constante pour créer un petit interstice entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.
I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.
A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.
djwooten -
This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.
Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.
I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.
I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.
If you try to use the spunger near the home button and try to pry it can crack your screen. This happened to me.
Same thing happened to me. This should be a big warning in these steps. If you have a small to moderate crack in you screen, but you weren’t planning on replacing the screen at the same time as another repair inside, there’s a risk of damaging the screen further and making it inoperable.
DW7ACCT -
I found it easiest to use two suction cups. One on the front as directed, and a second one on the back. Give the spudger to your assistant, and have them slip it in place while you pull the display from the case.
I gave up with the suction cup as it wasn't working for me with a cracked screen. Having heated the bottom of the phone with a hair dryer with a high heat for a good minute or so, I used a safety scraper (essentially a razor blade in a holder) along the bottom of the phone to separate the screen from the body of the phone. I used the scraper vertically between the bottom of the screen and the phone body and levered it sufficiently so that I could fit the spudger between the screen and the phone body. My experience when I first used the spudger around the frame was that the cracks in the screen caused the screen glass to separate from the frame, so I had to re-do it and ensure that the screen frame was separated from the phone body.
Safety scraper:
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Le meilleur endroit pour faire levier est l'encoche dans l'écran située au-dessus de la prise casque.
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Tout en tenant la ventouse, insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans l'encoche directement au-dessus de la prise casque.
This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.
For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.
After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.
Thanks for reading.
- Mr Gamma
I also struggled with this step. Lots of heat, 3 different suction cups, I finally could see a small gap... much too thin to fit even a piece of paper into. A video on another site said it was the easy way. I used a sharp craft knife barely into the seam between metal and glass and pried slightly. And it started up. Still a pain freeing the rest of the adhesive. Perhaps the adhesive really sets up over the course of 5 years? I have it hinged open now, so onto the next steps.
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Agrandissez l'interstice entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière en tournant la spatule.
just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated
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Tirez sur le petit bouton en plastique sur la ventouse et enlevez-la de l'écran.
Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.
There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.
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Saisissez délicatement l'écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en vous servant des clips en haut du panneau frontal comme charnière.
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Pendant les étapes suivantes, adossez l'écran à un objet afin de maintenir un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier.
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Utilisez un élastique pour garder l'écran fermement en place pendant la réparation. Cela va empêcher une pression excessive sur les câbles de l'écran.
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À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une cannette de boisson fermée pour tenir l'écran.
if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?
In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.
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Enlevez les deux vis cruciformes qui attachent le cache du connecteur de batterie à la carte mère :
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Une vis de 2,9 mm
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Une vis de 2,3 mm
FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!
I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)
Use the bit labeled “PH000”.
PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.
For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you
Do not lose track of which hole these screws go into. They MUST be put back into the correct hole that they came out of. If not, you will get the dreaded “long screw damage” on the mainboard, and that will be the end of the show.
Just remember where these screws go, and it will be fine.
Ended up employing a Philips #0 from a regular jeweler/precision kit on the 2.3mm screw. Bits seem a bit off for this step.
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Retirez le cache de connecteur de batterie.
Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!
Auch die Abdeckung ist angeklebt. Also mit etwas Vorsicht und Geduld rangehen.
If you have forgotten your High School German -
The cover is also glued. So take some care and patience.
My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.
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Repliez le connecteur pour éviter un contact qui pourrait rallumer votre iPhone pendant que vous travaillez dessus.
When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.
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Enlevez les vis Phillips suivantes :
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Trois vis de 1,3 mm
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Une vis de 1,6 mm
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Une vis de 3,0 mm
I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.
I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.
Thor -
I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.
To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.
Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.
Tom -
Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?
I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?
P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.
It is a 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.
I didn’t think this was necessary, bit I see it relieves stress on the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector; I did not disconnect the display connector nor remove the display screen.
I second this finding. I too did not remove the screws nor the bracket. The cables look a bit stretched, but certainly not strained.
-Gamma
This step of separating the two parts of the phone deserves careful consideration. In my case, I had propped up the display assembly with a box and rubber bands. However, only 2 of the battery adhesive strips came off easily. The effort to remove the battery with the display assembly attached was not a good move on my part. I jarred the ear speaker cable and after reassembly I had no camera or working ear speaker. Taking off these 5 screws and removing the three cables is not difficult. My suggestion: is you have ANY trouble removing the 3 battery adhesive strips, STOP, separate the two components, and then continue with the battery removal. Don’t struggle removing the battery with the display assembly attached. (I replaced the ear speaker cable, and all is working now)
Thanks for this tip! I am having a really hard time removing this plate because one of the screw heads are stripped. So I’ll try removing the battery adhesive strips first to see if I can get the battery out without removing the screen.
Use dixie cups and label them for each part you take out. You can stack the dixie cups to keep them in order.
OMG…. SO excited! It works! Seems that missing screw wasn’t an issue. The reason I’m so excited is, I’m a senior and have bever attempted anything like this before and was worried I’d mess it up, or it just wouuldn’t work for whatever reason. I know I never would have tried if it weren’t for finding this site, the great service, parts to do it and the videos/guides. Thank you so much ifixit. :-)
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Utilisez un outil en plastic pour déconnecter le connecteur de la caméra avant et de la nappe de capteur.
FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.
I don’t recommend using the spudger for this as you can do more damage that way. I scratched the black square thing underneath.
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Utilisez un outil en plastique pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de la vitre tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère.
“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “
The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.
Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.
This part was a very frustrating experience for me. I thought that my replacement screen was just poor quality, as it worked when it wanted to work. Pressing home/power repeatedly sometimes brought it back, charging to 100% also brought it back. The actual problem was that it is very easy to get some of the gasket material caught in the connector, which I couldn’t see until I used my jeweler's loupe. I used 91% alcohol to carefully clean all of this off until all pins were shiny, and it took about 6 tries to get it right. However, the screen’s been running well for 2 days now. I already bought another screen replacement which I have for a spare as it was 100% not the problem.
I followed all the steps, so the sound is missed. What could be happened? thanks a lot. Fabio Balbino
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Déconnectez la nappe du bouton home/lecteur d'empreintes en le soulevant tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
How much is this to replace?
And where could I buy from?
You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD
After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.
Thanks for the tip. Same thing happened to me, some leftover adhesive was in the way!
Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.
What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.
Mine came loose somehow?
I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?
i pressed on the center of the digitizer connection. and the bottom half of my screen didnt work. i then took that same front panel assembly and tried to install it on another old iphone 6s+ and i had the same issue.
can i still fix it?
what exactly is broken now?
@mynameisoli Honestly this just sounds like a defective screen to me, but it’s hard to say for sure. Look closely at the connector at the end of the ribbon cable and check it for damage. If it’s slightly bent/curved, all the pins won’t make good contact in the socket. You can try bending it back so it lays flat, but you have to be very careful not to damage the connector or contaminate the pins with skin oils, so it’s tricky—and it may be harder to return as “defective” if you mess up the connector. So try this at your own risk. Apart from that, I would just return it and try a different display. Good luck!
The 6s plus screen repair kit i bought has the wrong size cable here on the replacement part. SOL.
I changed the battery on my iPhone and put all together again and charged it. When I pressed the home button the lock screen with my picture appeared and when I pressed it again the screen with the digits from 0 to 9 appeared. I was asked to enter my passcode, but when I did that nothing happened, the phone did not open.
What could be wrong? Is the home screen cable not fully connected or what could be the reason for this?
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Enlevez l'écran.
For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here
Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?
@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.
If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.
These instructions worked great for me. Thank you!
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Enlevez les deux vis Phillips de 1,9 mm qui maintiennent le cache de bouton home.
The new display came with a 1.9mm screw installed (the top left one above). This must be removed before putting back the home button bracket. It took me way too long to realize why I couldn’t thread the old screw back into the hole.
If you bought a screen assembly with a home button but have not ever set up touch ID can you set up touch ID on the new screen’s home button?
The home button and logic board are usually married. So if it’s a new home button paired with the original logic board, the Touch ID won’t work.
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Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter la nappe du bouton home de son connecteur sur l'écran.
Buongiorno,ho cambiato display però adesso non mi funziona touch sul tasto home…cosa potrebbe essere???grazie
ciao, hai risolto? ho sto valutando se cambiare lo schermo appunto per questo motivo, ho letto online che gli schermi non originali danno questo problema
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Une fois le bouton home chauffé, l'adhésif du joint sera plus mou, et vous pourrez l'enlever plus facilement et sans faire de dégâts. Servez-vous d'un sèche-cheveux, d'un iOpener ou d'un outil équivalent.
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Préparez un iOpener et posez-le sur le bord inférieur du panneau frontal pour ramollir l'adhésif sur le joint.
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En utilisant votre doigt, poussez le bouton home délicatement vers le haut pour continuer à le séparer de l'écran.
“The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate. “
The note above was very helpful. It really is thin and for one second I thought I punctured a whole through it, so be careful.
I did this on 2 separate phones. The first time, I did it according to directions, and it worked well. However, the adhesive pulled off in the process. On the 2nd phone I used a handwarmer to slightly warm the home button area. (I think an iOpener would work best, but I didn’t have one on hand). With the constant pressure after being heated, the home button assembly came off easily, and the adhesive stayed in place. I’ll definitely use slight heat in the future for this step as it seems to lessen the possibility of damaging the assembly.
I would have liked to see the heating instructions on this page. I only saw it once I re-watched the video as I was having trouble getting the button out. iFixit would have made another sale had it been obvious that the heating pad would come in handy. I ended up using a microwave heating pad instead. Worked fine.
If anyone else is totally caught off guard by the need for heat at this point, the previous mention of a heating pad gave me the idea of heating a wet paper towel in the microwave and sticking it in a plastic bag. Obviously make sure no moisture escapes into the device. Worked fine, and is absolutely necessary: that gasket is VERY delicate.
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Retirez le bouton home avec nappe.
Make sure you remove any broken glass from around the button edges. Took me a few times to realize it had some glass on it.
I could not believe how EASY this was to repair my phone! Granted, it took me awhile (2 hrs) to replace a camera and a screen, but I was probably overly meticulous about each step, especially making sure the old adhesive was fully removed and the frame was clean. I can imagine, with tolerances being as tight as they are — I could barely see some of the screws! — the slightest lump of glue might have made a smooth placement difficult. But, in the end, it was worth it! Screen looks and works awesome, and so does my camera!
Huge props to you for this detailed guide! Very easy to follow and flawless result! Thank you!
does the home button work after you put it on the new repaired phone?
what about the camera? i don’t see the step moving the old camera over to the new screen
Gasket guys!! How do you properly replace the gasket?? Not shown!!
Friends, take a very, very close look at how the connector on the replacement screen is situated. It rests BEHIND a small L shaped ledge that holds it in place. Once connected to the home button ribbon, you will need to seat it behind the little ledge. Otherwise it will be sitting on top of the ledge, and the metal cover won't fit properly before it is screwed back in place.
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Enlevez les trois vis Phillips suivantes:
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Deux vis de 2,7 mm
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Une vis de 1,4 mm
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Utiliser la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever le capteur le luminosité ambiante de son emplacement dans l'écran.
Getting this assembly back in place was the most frustrating part of the entire reassembly. The preformed cables kept moving the sensors out of their sockets and making reassembly impossible. A little patient work using the spudger to hold things in place with one hand while placing the speaker and camera lens with the other got things reinstalled.
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Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) entre la nappe du microphone et le panneau frontal pour défaire l'adhésif qui le maintient en place.
I’m pretty sure I made a mistake at this point by applying a heat gun to soften the tacky adhesive. I suspect that the molded plastic lens on the camera became hot and the antireflective coating on it cracked all over. Under a microscope it looks messed up. The result is that the camera is now blurry. So be careful with applying heat.
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Retirez l'ensemble caméra FaceTime et nappe de capteur.
Attention, au remontage trier les deux nappes horizontales pour que la nappe la plus large soit dessous.
Brancher d’abord la nappe verticale latérale puis la nappe horizontale haute et enfin la nappe horizontale basse.
The replacement sensor comes with one of the sensor connectors covered with another plug. So if the connector doesn't want to fit, you can remove the outer connector adapter and then connect using the inner connector. Also, I installed this along with a new battery to fix the proximity sensor not working when making a call. Well, this didn't fix it either. So I suspect it's an OS issue, but I'm not about to upgrade a 7-year old phone. It is what it is!
After removing the camera and sensor assembly, note the white colored dot in the recess for the ambient light sensor. It is actually a filter which must be transferred to the new unit. It is held in with mild adhesive and does not require any heat to remove it. Simply use the pointed end of a spudger or pointed tweezers to gently remove it.
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Enlevez les 7 vis Phillips de 1,5 mm qui maintiennent la protection EMI en place.
On the iphone 6s (not plus)the recessed screw is different to the other 6. The screw head is smaller.
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Retirez la protection EMI du panneau avant.
So, this guide is garbage right here. There is no mentioning the home button connector, wich holds the bottom of the EMI shield in place. You can not remove the shield if this is not loosened. You also need to heat it or the cable will break. I now have to buy a new heat shield since my cable broke thanks to this guide
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Il ne reste que le panneau frontal.
Step 39 shows front panel display with connector for Touch-ID female receiver for Home-button attached to the metal plate. How do you remove and transfer that component to new donor screen?
@rrutty06 You don’t—that flex cable is integrated into the display assembly. If you try to access it, you run a high risk of destroying the display completely. If your new display doesn’t have that part already, it’s likely not a 6s Plus display.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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11 commentaires
with the new update, how do I avoid bricking my phone. i read an article that said if a non authorized apple person attempts to fix my phone the phone will be bricked. iphone 6 plus firmware 4.52.00 update 9.2.1.
I believe you are referring to the Error 53 bug which has since been fixed. Initially, it was caused by people attempting to update their iPhones with a Home Button other than the original factory-installed unit—the update would pause halfway through and the iPhone would be bricked.
This guide involves transferring your original Home Button to the new display, so that's not an issue in this situation, but if you were to use a new Home Button, you would still be safe since Apple's issued a fix for Error 53.
My iphone 6s plus was water damaged and I've been told that I only need to replace the screen as the parts are still in good condition. My question is in this case do I have to replace only the front panel or the full display assembly?
Did you ever get a answer ? Same problem I have
They come fused at one unit, removing one removes the other.
Tugging -
I've performed this without using the ‘iOpener’ by carefully peeling with a spudger (step 26) as directed. It worked fine.
In response to comment Sept 17 from Albert, I did not have an issue during steps 36-37. Not sure what that comment is about. Unless it was confused with steps 26-27 having to do with the removal of the touch ID/home button. Again, I did not use heat to loosen the adheshive. I did have a warm rice bag (poor man’s iOpener, just a cloth bag with dry rice in it, warmed in the microwave at half power…) on hand in case it felt like not releasing easily. From what I found disassembling an iPhone6S Plus that’s over a year old is all the cable adhesives (top and bottom of phone) were ready to release with very little effort.
Side/screen adhesive lifting from the case proved to be the most challenging. This is due to the original damage, left side bracket that connects to EMI shields was broken on the phone. Be careful when separating if damage is extensive!
Thank you for another thorough repair guide! With each repair, I am gaining confidence and competency that makes each repair that much faster. I just finished a bare display replacement in just over an hour on an i-Phone 6S Plus!
Hi Evan and thanks for your guide!
I’ve broken only the glass but if I’ve understood correctly, the glass is not separable from the retina screen right? So I’ve to buy a new glass/screen and follow this guide to replace every pieces except the retina screen cause is already installed in the glass (like this).
Many thanks
Giuseppe
One of the best explained step by step instructions I have read. My iphone 6 plus screen is cracked and before ordering the part I wanted to make sure I could do it myself. Definitely bookmarking this and using it when I do the replacement. I do have one question though. I also need to replace the back facing camera. At what point in the process should I do this? Thank you,
Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.
Miguel Perez - Réponse
If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?
I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.
Ganqian Zhu - Réponse
iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.
Jeff Suovanen -
Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.
Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?
grazie
Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.
Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?
thank you
Daniele - Réponse
You’ve probably received your answer by now but for future enquirers, it does help the process of taking the screen off if heat is applied to the screen. If you have a hair Dryer use that on a low setting to heat the edges of the screen until it’s almost too hot to touch then slip very thin metal spudger around the edge to cut the adhesive. The carefully lift the screen with the help of the spudger and continue with your repair
Cheers Wayne
Wayne Lyell -
How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?
integritybuilders - Réponse
When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.
Jeff Suovanen -
So I need to empty the battery to zero percent?
johnpatrickanat - Réponse
Below 25%, exactly as stated in the instructions. There’s no benefit to draining it further than that, and in fact you’ll slightly shorten the service life of the battery by draining it all the way to zero. Follow the instructions exactly as written—if you go off-script, you’re a lot more likely to break something.
Jeff Suovanen -
So my screen shattered completely and the screen first had colored lines on tge while right side then it went out completely. If i get an lcd and digitizer replacement I'd that oing to fix it
shellietheleo - Réponse
I would initially recommend a well-lit, comfortable area and placing the screws on a white piece of paper with the screw sizes written down (apparently there are magnetic mats, also). Also, I found placing the phone on a paper towel is good so that if a screw is dropped, it will lessen the likelihood of bouncing away.
Lou Fazio - Réponse
I recommend that, before you even lift a screwdriver or plug in the hair dryer, get a piece of paper and a pencil. As you unscrew and remove the parts, write the size and/or number for that step and put them by their label. I also used a microscope to identify the screw heads (I'm 75 and my vision is not what it used to be). Laying them out in order, I just went backwards when putting them all back in. I used an anti-static cleaning cloth instead of paper, but I should think they both will work.
N.B.: my kit had a nice pretty blue plastic sheet with a black outline on it. It was only when I put the whole phone back together and was packing up the supplies and tools that I realized it was a replacement gummi seal. A LABEL WOULD BE VERY USEFUL HERE!
I am a retired engineer, and aside from the size of the bits and bobs, it was a piece of cake! Thanks...you saved me $75!
P. Roberts - Réponse