Ce tutoriel a des changements plus récents. Passer à la dernière version non vérifiée.
Introduction
Voici un contrôleur DualShock 4 qui dérivait vers les deux joysticks analogiques. Le remplacement assez simple des joysticks a résolu le problème.
Les joysticks sont soudés à la carte mère. Vous aurez besoin d'un poste de soudure pour compléter cette réparation.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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À l'aide d'un tournevis Phillips #00, retirez les quatre vis de 6,0 mm qui maintiennent en place le capot arrière de la manette.
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Commencez par la poignée gauche :
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Serrez la poignée gauche de la manette pour créer une ouverture.
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Insérez un outil en plastique dans l'ouverture et faites-le glisser jusqu'au joystick.
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Appuyez sur l'outil en plastique afin d'ouvrir la coque.
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Répétez ces étapes pour la poignée droite.
Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.
Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).
I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)
Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!
couldn't have posted pics for me? :D
Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.
Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.
You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2
When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.
If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.
Simon -
if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.
So what I seem to see a lot of sources fail to mention with this model (and promptly break without noticing) are the two plastic tabs attached to the front shell on either side of the headphone jack ; in order to properly pry that section open, all you need to do is lightly push those plastic tabs in, and the section should open up easily. That seems to be one of the main things that prevent people from prying the shell open.
The updated models have the tabs as well, but aren’t as stubborn considering the bars between the shoulder buttons on those are inside as opposed to being a part of the shell.
Hope this helps, and feel free to discuss, especially if you’re more familiar with the issue than me.
Thank you so much for mentioning exactly where the internal tabs are located, I couldn't for the life of me get into the controller otherwise.
I found using two thin plastic guitar picks, the kind that bend more freely, worked very well to shimmy into place on either side of the headphone jack and pop the tabs to get the device to open.
I did break a small piece from one of the teeth on the back half of the shell that inserts into the tabs, but I believe this was accidentally done before I came across your comment and was prying with a spudger willy-nilly.
Gently wiggling the front half of the shell containing the main portion of the electronics allowed me to release the triggers and open the controller the rest of the way.Very helpful, Rifter. Thank you.
I found this shell assembly surprisingly difficult to separate if you don’t want to break the hook/tabs (and I’m a mechanic, fwiw). There are two pairs of hooks, and none of them are near the “share” and “options” buttons as Step 3 suggests. Like Rifter mentioned, one pair is on either side of the headphone interface. The other is along the sides, right up near the L and R paddles.
With whatever tool you’re using (bike-tire levers work for me), pry it under the outside base of one of the handles (not inside), lever the tool downward a bit (controller is right-side-up), and slide it forward toward the L/R paddle. That downward rotation should help ease the tab off the hook. For the headphone tabs, pushing inward on the two top-half joystick mounds will help ease those off of the hooks, but you have to push pretty hard.
If you get them apart, you’ll then be able to gently wriggle the circuit ribbon connector off of the top-half pc board (don’t use a tool - you’ll break it).
Why is this guide about unlatching the plastic clips before forcing the halves apart, completely separate and just linked here? I missed it and now 3/4 of my plastic clips are broken. It should not be a separate guide, it should be in the main guide, it's only a couple pictures!
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Pour ouvrir la manette, insérez un outil en plastique et appuyez dessus au niveau des boutons suivants :
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Le bouton Share
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Le bouton Options
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Séparez les deux parties de la coque de la manette. N'oubliez pas que ces deux ensembles sont encore maintenus par les nappes de connexion des cartes électroniques!
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2 ressorts de gâchette
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1 extension en plastique du bouton Reset
You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.
SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?
I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?
Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.
tcbrekke -
I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)
My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.
The5HD -
When reassembling: If, like me, your R2/L2 buttons stayed with the bottom of the controller when you took it apart, it will be impossible to reassemble and get the tiny springs back in place.
To remedy, remove the buttons, and attach them, with the springs correctly placed, to the top of the controller. There are two tiny grooves, one on the button, and one on the controller top, into which the spring fits.
Jeff, we owe you a six pack for this comment.
Thank You!! The spring came out and I looked for a way to reinsert it. So I led a thread through its opening (so it couldn´t jump away), and compressed it with pliers. So it was easy to put it in.
VauWeh -
Jeff, you've been a wonderfully helpful Human. Thanks for the ingenious tip.
Kris W -
Thanks man i was struggling there
Something is stopping me from opening it cause it cut both by splitting tools
Mine was also really really resistant to being pried open. In the end, i did my best to loosen the entire gap at least once, then inserted along the middle bottom and used more force than i would have been comfortable with. The plastic on the edges is slightly shot now and it’s not as smooth a grip-feeling anymore, but it came apart fine and I didn’t break anything important. There is just a lot of surface for a friction fit like this and the joysticks keep pulling it back down, which in combination makes it really resilliant. In my case it also was exuberated by a minor soda spill along the right handle which ‘glued’ it together, and i imagine that can also happen just with use and ‘hand cheese’, especially on the outer edges. There is a lot of surface area to stick together there.
The ribbon cable can be removed without having to pull too much https://youtu.be/y40RUDSPeiA?si=9Y3gNB1w...
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Détachez la nappe de la carte mère, qui relie les deux côtés de la manette, en la tirant vers le haut avec vos doigts.
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Une fois les deux moitiés séparées, mettez la partie supérieure de la manette de côté.
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Retirez la vis cruciforme #00 6 mm qui se trouve derrière le boîtier de la batterie.
Hello. I got a new graffiti controller (without hardware) and i wanted to switch my parts in the graffiti one. I have a PS4 Controller. Not a slim. But it seems like my motherboard screw is on the other side.. its on the right side of the motherboard and my graffiti is on the left.. what controller do i need to fix this?
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Détachez délicatement la nappe du pavé tactile connectée à la carte mère à l'aide d'une pincette émoussée. Cette nappe est maintenue par un clapet qui s'ouvre pour déconnecter ou raccorder la nappe. Pour reconnecter la nappe durant le remontage, vous devez retirer délicatement le support plastique de la carte mère et ouvrir le clapet.
Be very careful when you detach the touchpad ribbon. You could disconnect the other end that is inside the touchpad. In fact I would recommend you use a plastic spudger to release the clips on the sides of the battery holder, and then lift the latch to the ZIF socket of the touchpad. If your touchpad is not working upon reassembly, then the other end of the ribbon cable my have came loose in the touchpad. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the back of the touchpad, and lift the brown latch of the ZIF socket and reinsert.
thanks for the advice
TMC -
currently doing this and have found the desoldering part the most difficult. i purchased a 40w solder on sale and attempted to remove with flux and wick to no avail. a buddy of mine tried with his station and no dice. at this point im thinking the contacts are lead? any advice?
So the springs are annoying couldn't see were you talk about these as it's very fiddly to do the last step of putting it back together. Not just a reverse of taking it apart!
I concur. The springs are the worst part of this job. It would be nice if someone edited this to add some tricks for reassembly.
You just have to put the r2/l2 buttons on the top side. There's a space around that white rubber thing where you can just snap them in. So that you have all the shoulder buttons together before putting the 2 parts back together.
Tilt your controller and trigger so the triggers are pointing to the ground it stops the spring popping out so much place spring inside the trigger and clip on thats how i do it anyway :) the touchpad is my problem area replaced my stick covers and now it just doesnt work at all :(
Thank you for this recommendation. Made disassembly SO much smoother.
What I did for the Springs was place the spring on the button. Turned the button to where the spring is up on top then attached the button to the controller this helps keep the spring in place as you reattach it that is really the only trick that I found to it.
“The touchpad ribbon is connected to the motherboard by a connector that flips to tighten and loosen” —> Just fixed a controller I bought in 2017. There was definitely no flip connector there, the ribbon simply went in. I guesss the internals changed. So beware: don’t mess with the female connector on the motherboard if there’s no obvious flip switch.
Thank you. I just broke a piece of the plastic because it will not flip. I could not figure it out and was wondering if the version in these demonstrations was different than mine. Thank you for addressing this.
never had spring problem
Just want to say big thanks to ifixit for mentioning the flap. It worked like a charm. I searched high and low on all the usual forums, Reddit, Youtube, you name it. Who knew it was as simple as flipping the flap and no one even thought of mentioning it until I found this website.
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Retirez soigneusement l'ensemble de la carte mère de la coque avant.
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Les vibreurs sont attachés de façon lâche à l'ensemble carte mère. Prenez-les en main aux extrémités pour les séparer facilement.
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Le démontage réussi de la manette résulte en les trois parties suivantes, respectivement :
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L'ensemble carte mère
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La coque avant
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La coque arrière
One day my R2 trigger refused to work all in a sudden. The second day it spread to my square button. I dissembled the controller to this step and found some liquid between the green motherboard and the black plastic holding it. I should not have bought a second-hand especially for a launch version. Anyways I cleaned it up and it still didn't work. I then went to ebay and bought a new motherboard. Basically it is a piece of delicate plastic like PCB. It is held in place by 3 plastic columns and 3 gaps for sliding underneath both triggers and the touch pad. Sorry for no pictures but a careful removal of the old one would give you the best illustration of how to put the new one back. First remove the rubber pads of the triggers, which allows you to slide in the PCB. Then there are another 2 small plastic columns at the back of the gap near the touch pad. There is no need to detach the rotors. A pair of tweezers would help greatly. My controller now works perfectly like new and thanks to the author.
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Ce sont les connexions à souder qui devront être dessoudées. Puisque la planche est à l'envers, la gauche deviendra la droite.
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Utilisez une mèche et un flux à dessouder pour faire fondre et retirer la soudure
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Cela peut prendre un peu de pratique car toute la soudure devra être retirée. Cela aide à tirer un peu sur le joystick tout en faisant fondre la soudure et en utilisant la mèche.
I'm new to solder/desoldering but i've been unable to get the solder to really melt or come loose enough to remove during this step. i have a solder remover/sucker but alas no luck.
any recommendations?
You need heat, solder wick (skip the solder sucker, those never work for me;-) and lots of flux. Place flux on your wick and tin the tip of your soldering iron with solder as well.
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Une fois tous les contacts dessoudés, l'ancien joystick peut être retiré.
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Vérifiez que tous les trous sont débarrassés de l'ancienne soudure. Des aiguilles hypodermiques ainsi que de très petits forets peuvent être utilisés pour nettoyer les trous.
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Insérez le nouveau joystick dans le circuit imprimé. Assurez-vous qu'il est correctement installé et que tous les contacts sont alignés avec les trous de la carte de circuit imprimé.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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14 commentaires
I just tried to remove both joystick and replaced them but unfortunately only one joystick works and that one that works it's stuck on and only moves in one direction.
I've not been able to actually get the solder out, would love any suggestions or tips.
send me a couple of pictures on what your repair looks like thus far. Send them to my email. Click on my username and my email address is on my profile. Let's see what you got so far.
This is a very difficult repair, what this guy didn't mention is you need a very expensive solder station with an electric solder sucker. The solder needs removing and it's nearly impossible without damaging the tracking.
You definitely need some soldering experience but the repairability is not that difficult. The soldering points are big enough for any cheap ($40) soldering iron can get too. As for removing them, it helps to use flux and also a soldering wick to absorb all the old solder. It is not easy but not the most difficult repair. P.S you do not need the expensive soldering stating with hot air etcetera. This works perfectly as it get hot beyond the required point to melt the solder
I've been repairing ps4 controllers along time and this isn't an easy fix. You need an electric solder sucker, to get all the solder out the holes with danagimv the tracking is near on impossible with a good solder
@dave2003 “what this guy didn't mention is you need a very expensive solder station with an electric solder sucker “, nope! All I used what a run-of-the-mill soldering iron and some soldering wick and flux. This is a straight forward repair that does not require any special tools!
Can someone suggest a good soldering gun and soldering metal ?
mine is for very thin wires.
What is the best soldering gun yet affordable that I can use to solder this in place ?
mine only works for thin wires.
Pro tip: If the button works properly and you only need to fix 1 axis, you only need to remove the 3 pins that holds the potentiometer. You can snap off the potmeter from the metal casing of the stick and replace that part only if you have a compatible one but you need to be carefull, as there are multiple size of analog sticks with different potmeters on the sides and sometimes the shaft doesn’t match. But if you have multiple spares analog stick you can try to find a matching one.
I took the ps4 controller apart, and the video I was watching said to pop off the green things that are around the analog stick with white things inside them, they have tiny pieces on top and bottom, i’m missing that little peice, does that matter
Link to purchase part takes you to N64 joystick part. Doesn't appear to be correct?
thank you🙏🏽
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Yo usé un Phillips #000, ya que el #00 quedaba grande y podía dañar el tornillo.
Adolfo Gomez Toledo - Réponse
A plain #0 works way better for me
Jennica Tapia - Réponse
I agree with Jennica, it's a #0 screw
Peeter - Réponse
to re-torque these PH00 screw... i found 19Ncm to be about the max. (since 27Ncm was too much)
Dreamcat 4 - Réponse