Introduction
Ce guide vous montrera les étapes nécessaires pour retirer le ventilateur de la PlayStation 4 Pro. De nombreuses étapes sont nécessaires pour effectuer cette opération, ainsi qu'un démontage annulant la garantie. Une majorité de la PS4 Pro doit être démontée pour retirer le ventilateur.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retournez la console à l'envers.
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Tirez et retirez le couvercle en plastique du disque dur à l'aide de votre doigt.
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Utilisez un tournevis cruciforme Philips #1 pour retirer la vis unique fixant le support du disque dur.
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Tirez le support du disque dur vers l'extérieur.
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Retournez la console côté droit vers le haut.
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Saisissez les deux coins situés à l'avant de l'appareil.
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Tirez vers le haut jusqu'à ce qu'un clic fort soit entendu.
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Une fois les deux coins détachés, faites glisser le couvercle vers l'arrière et soulevez-le.
%#*@. I thought I was gonna break the thing. You really do have to give it some elbow grease.
there were also some screws that needed to come out before popping it off. Might have been a different version im working on. there were three screws attached to the console that I had to remove before popping off the top.
The 7215B has one TR8 security Torx behind the center “void” sticker.
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Utilisez un tournevis de sécurité Torx T8 pour retirer cinq vis à l'arrière de l'appareil.
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Deux vis de 31 mm.
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Trois vis de 10 mm pour les modèles 7000. Si la PS4 est un modèle de la série 7100, ce sont deux vis de 10 mm (en haut et en bas sur l'illustration).
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Retirez la plaque métallique en la tirant vers le haut.
I copy the comment written by Jason at the end of this guide, because it’s better to have it here:
This guide is for the initial release CUH-7000 models. Of note is the changes to the CUH-7100 series that do make this guide an issue. Steps 4 and 5 have a different items to note. You can damage it following this guide if you don’t adjust. There no longer 3 security screws for the case, but just one. This single screw is still covered by a warranty sticker, but the second one is a blank sticker and no screw behind it. There is also no 10mm screw in the center power supply in Step 4, it’s a support post. You still remove the 4 other screws, but you must then flip the console over and remove a T8 screw to the right on the HDD cage and another closer to the right side. You can then flip the console over again to remove the battery and plug it. Just remove all the metal plate screws to be sure, but make sure you hold the board when you flip it again or you will bend the battery prongs like I found out the hard way.
Oh! That explains why I stripped the middle screw. What’s a support post?
Had to use TR8 instead of 10mm here.
After I popped the top off, I got 4 out of 5 screws out. The 5 th screw for some reason, was a little bit bigger, therefore, I could not take out that screw so I could clean the heatsink and fan.
Me too it’s not like another screw it’s have black and I can’t remove if you know pls tell me how i do bro ???
I stripped the %#*@ screw in the middle. (orange highlighting) It’s a black head and the T8 Torx Security head doesn’t work! I have a CUH-7115B. I think it’s a regular T8 or some kind of Hex head. ? I don’t know what to do now!! :(
As mentioned above, this guide is for the old models. 7215B: There 4 TR8 screws (2 long, 2 short) holding the plate. The middle is a support post.
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Retournez la console de sorte que le bas soit orienté vers le haut.
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Utilisez un tournevis de sécurité Torx T8 pour retirer les trois vis noires de 7 mm du panneau arrière (modèles 7000 uniquement) ; ou une vis de 7 mm (celle du milieu) avec les modèles de la série 7100 et le sticker de garantie à gauche.
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Retirez le capot inférieur de la même manière que le capot supérieur. Saisissez le couvercle des deux côtés et tirez vers le haut jusqu'à ce qu'il s'enclenche. Faites ensuite glisser le couvercle. Avec les modèles de la série 7100, notez les deux clips qui remplacent les vis correspondantes.
Adding to this, the screws are not visible unless you remove the warranty stickers!
Also, the plastic on the back of the cover is prone to cracking. Be careful and undo snaps across the whole back of the panel gently!
Vielen vielen Dank. Endlich ist der jumbojet gelandet #fan
7215B has 1 TR8 screw beneath a sticker between the optical and USB ports, and two clips (1 next to the HDD slot and 1 beneath a sticker near the power port.)
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Utilisez un tournevis de sécurité Torx T8 pour retirer les onze vis argentées de 10 mm de la plaque métallique.
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Utilisez un tournevis cruciforme n ° 1 pour retirer les onze vis noires de 4 mm de la plaque métallique.
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Utilisez une spatule pour déconnecter les trois câbles d'antenne (deux noirs et un blanc) en les soulevant directement de leurs prises.
Noted during my replacement that the PS4 Pro appears to have additional #0 Phillips Head screws in Step 6 required to remove the metal plate from the motherboard and that the metal “X” plate in Step 11 appears to be included now in this overall metal cover for the motherboard, no longer separate, which accounts for the additional screws.
Original pro here. Had 12 torx
(PS4 Pro) Bei mir ebenfalls 11 T8 Torx, von denen 3 Sicherheitstorx waren.
What are the 3 different antennas identifications or functionality ?
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Retirez les cinq petits câbles bleus à profil bas connectés à la plaque métallique.
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Soulevez le volet de retenue du connecteur ZIF du grand câble plat.
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Tirez le gros câble plat de sa prise.
What the cable in the up left corner is for? I broke it and i’d like to know at what is it connected?
Thanks
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Retournez la console pour continuer à travailler sur le dessus.
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Tirez sur le bloc d'alimentation et placez-le sur la console.
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Saisissez le connecteur derrière le bloc d'alimentation et tirez-le tout droit.
Why do I have to remove the PSU here? I do not see the necessity judging by the following steps.
This comes in handy when removing the entire motherboard which is necessary when cleaning the heat sink.
Bonjour, Que se soit le connecteur du bloc comme celui sur la partie ps4 , il est difficile à retirer ce câblage… peut-on tirer sans risque réellement ?
IMPORTANT: The connector on the motherboard is very sensitive. I’d recommend using pliers to put pressure down on the connector while slowly jerking the cable out of the socket to avoid serious damage to the connector and/or motherboard that could render the PSU connection useless and require advanced soldering / rewiring.
This!
Connector was quite tight in PSU side and I ended pulling connector from motherboard resulting me getting PS5 for Christmas.
tero -
Der Stecker am Netzteil (letzter Schritt) erscheint mir ungewöhnlich fest, und lässt sich ohne weiteres nicht entfernen. Besteht die Möglichkeit, dass dieser neuerdings verklebt ist oder dergleichen? :-/
Das würde mich auch interessieren. Ich habe den Stecker weder vom Mainboartd noch von der PSU abbekommen. Leider habe ich den Stecker dann abgerissen - aber er hat sich auf keiner Seite abziehen lassen.
Bei dieser Stecker-Buchse Verbindung handelt es sich um einen Molex-Stecker, der verriegelt ist. An der Seite befindet sie ein kleiner Hebel, den man nach innen drücken muss, damit sich der Stecker löst.
Danke für die Info!
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Retournez soigneusement la console de sorte que le bas soit orienté vers le haut.
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Utilisez un tournevis cruciforme n ° 1 pour retirer les huit vis de 4 mm sur la plaque métallique portant le symbole en forme de X.
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Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour retirer la plaque métallique en forme de X.
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Utilisez un tournevis cruciforme n ° 1 pour retirer les quatre vis de 13 mm sur la plaque métallique en forme de X en dessous.
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Saisissez le support de retenue en forme de X et soulevez-le vers le haut.
Mine had an S shape with two screws.
Depending on the series it will have either a S or X shape bracket
I have heatsink issue 7016 (x-shaped). However I am only able to find S shaped heatsink plate (71xx model) in my country. Does anyone know how the heatpipes travel within the heatsink? I basically need to drill 2 more holes and thread it to put the x clamp. Also the hole and thread size would be helpful.
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Saisissez le bord de la carte mère et soulevez lentement vers le haut pour la retirer de l'appareil.
Does anybody know the name of the white detail from the first screenshot step #13? (Plastic with square metal inside). I broke it by accident during dissembling and want to find replacement for it, but can’t find it anywhere.
I can read F2-4 >POM< on the plastic piece but i guess thisis a radiator/thermal dissipator support. HTH
Won't you also need a paired optical drive to replace the motherboard? My ps4 got broken some weeks ago and I've found out that I need to replace the motherboard for it to work again, but I keep seeing that you also need a paired optical drive. Is this true? My ps4 pro is a CUH-7216B if that helps
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Utilisez un tournevis cruciforme n ° 0 pour retirer les deux vis de 6 mm du ventilateur.
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Saisissez le ventilateur et soulevez-le pour le retirer.
Screw position indicated is slightly wrong. Both screws are on the right side of the fan. The one on the right is in the correct place. The other is below it rather than to the left as indicated.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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Équipe
Cal Poly, Team S21-G5, Livingston Spring 2017 Membre de l'équipe Cal Poly, Team S21-G5, Livingston Spring 2017
CPSU-LIVINGSTON-S17S21G5
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13 commentaires
Danke für die Anleitung. hat alles super geklappt. Bloß beim letzten Schritt ist die Schraube vom Lüfter nicht oben links sondern unten rechts. Mfg
Thanks for the guide. Very comprehensive.
I’m clueless with electronics but my PS4 was on its death throes with overheating. I read this guide and watched the video (coffee break included) and got to work. The only trouble I had was that my husband (he’s a good guy normally) decided to help and used too big pliers and broke the connector between the power supply and PS4. Ok, so 5 days wait for replacement. I replaced the fan, thermal paste, and pads and put it back together (shaking like a leaf in a hurricane). It’s quiet and works thanks to ifixit.com. Thank you so much!
This was super helpful! For the power supply, I was trying to pull at the socket the cable was plugged into (same color plastic). I think it would have worked better just wiggling the cable.
Also, T8 worked fine, but putting it back together, I noticed T9 was better fit, so if you have a T9, use that instead. After cleaning and repasting, it’s so much quieter. Thanks!
This is perfect, I love pictures instead of video.
For the PS cable to the MB, I used a small flathead screwdriver on the top of the plug, there is a bit of a lip there allowing me to make small twists to pry the plugout.
Once the plug started to move it came right out.
If there was a picture of the plug out of the port, it would have made it easier for me, at first I was unsure what I was trying to unplug.
tak, jeg brugte guiden til at rense min blæser, som næsten var helt blokeret med støv, og derfor larmet som et jetfly.
Nu køre min PS4 uden larm igen:)
men jeg forstår ikke at sony, har bygget PS4 så man skal skille den helt af for at rense blæser, virkeligt dårligt bygget.
så derfor rart med denne guide.
ps. mit PSU stik sad også meget fast, så jeg tog stikket i boardet, da det er nemmere at få godt fat i.
Awesome guide. I'm not very familiar with electronics but I was able to do this pretty easy. Just be easy with the power supply connector, it's alittle tight but just keep at it by hand. DON'T do what I did and grab some pliers!!! I was able to repair the cable I damaged but I was very lucky, as it only broke the casing and not the wire inside.
my PS4 pro model 7100 had one of the clips (the right one) behind another sticker. took me a bit to find and remove it. additionally, when trying to remove the power supply, at the top there was an additional screw. it looks like it needs one of those tools that you use to build IKEA furniture (yk the L-shaped kind. I could not find a fitting one and had to give up. this was pretty frustrating
7200 model, sorry
Elfi -
Very useful for full disassembly, deep clean, and repaste. Thermal paste should be included in supplies list though.
DON’T FORGET TO HAVE THERMAL PASTE HANDY! It should be added to the “Tools Required” Section. You will NEED it!
Jaquell Chandler - Réponse
What if thermal paste is not applied again when remounting ? Will the playstation start and work anyway or not ?
Vincent Bee - Réponse
It will start and run normally until you put it under load. Then it will heat up and thermal throttle or it can overheat and destroy itself.
Jeremy Ivey -
I posted this down in another step too, but: if you have a very early North American PS4 Pro, with the exact optical drive shown here - the key way to tell is the very long data cable that’s folded a couple of times, see pictures in later steps - then the replacement drive iFixit offers WILL NOT WORK IN YOUR MACHINE. It has to be a very early model, apparently, but the model number isn’t enough to tell you.
Even if you swap the too-short cables in their replacement with the longer cables on your drive, it still will not work. At all. It’ll just sit there like the drive isn’t even getting power.
So if you do have this drive, what you probably need to do is get a replacement KES-496A Optical Pickup Assembly and replace that within your existing drive. That’s what I had to do after two different replacement drives sent by iFixit failed to work in my system. It worked immediately and I’m back online.
The optical pickup replacement is awfully fiddly, and adds a solid 20 minutes to the repair easily. But it does work.
Dara Korra'ti - Réponse
I had originally been told by several people that to properly repair the optical drive within the PS4 Pro (so that the PS4 actually works), you have to replace the Optical Pickup Assembly like you mentioned because the drive is paired with the motherboard. I was surprised to find that iFixit is pushing this repair tutorial when it has a low probability of success for many PS4 Pro models.
Instead, iFixit should be documenting replacement of the KES-496A Optical Pickup Assembly... when that repair has a near 100% chance of success, even though it's a fair bit more fiddly to complete and requires two different teardowns (one for the PS4 Pro and one for the optical drive... needed to install the replacement optical pickup assembly).
commorancy -
Follow-on note. I could be mixing up the original PS4's pairing with the PS4 Pro (which might or might not have device + motherboard pairing). Because I can't find a definitive source confirming if the drive is paired on the PS4 Pro, using a drive replacement might or might not work.
There are a number of commenters below who followed these instructions and found that the replacement drive didn't work after completing the repair. I think I'd still go with replacing the KES-496A Optical Pickup Assembly. That repair is more fiddly, but the optical assembly replacement part is a whole lot cheaper, costing less than $10 in some stores, than buying a full replacement drive at $70.
commorancy -