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Introduction

The USB-C port on your Retina MacBook 2016 is the only port besides the headphone jack, and may suffer wear or damage over time. Use this guide to replace it.

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

    Chris Leeds - Réponse

    The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

    abscate - Réponse

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges. Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case. Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  2. While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  3. Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle. It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button. If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds. If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

    Laurent Pierre - Réponse

    on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

    aaron_vandyke2003 - Réponse

    Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

    mmcsorley - Réponse

    After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

    Richard Lovatt - Réponse

    It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

    Luk Chl - Réponse

    mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

    cristian.campuzano - Réponse

    Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

    Brandon Elliott - Réponse

    May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

    Xiubo Zhang - Réponse

    There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

    I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

    Kinda stuck….

    Carlos Perez - Réponse

  5. Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  6. Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

  7. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    Where can I find a replacement cable?

    John Comix - Réponse

  8. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

    abscate - Réponse

  9. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  10. Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up. Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it. Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.
    • Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up.

    • Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

  11. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

    * I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

    Chris Leeds - Réponse

    What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

    Does the new one just stick back right on top?

    (In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

    Elizabeth Erkelens - Réponse

    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

    What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

    DSANTIAGOSOY - Réponse

    If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

    Adam O'Camb -

  12. Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

    Y'vonne Feeney - Réponse

    You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

    bfg737 - Réponse

    With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

    Paul Nishikawa - Réponse

    This was #000 for me as well

    Adam Hupp - Réponse

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board. To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

    Aki Mochi - Réponse

  14. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  15. Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    • At this point it is possible to open the macbook all the way and to lay it flat on a table without causing any damage to the flex cables.

    Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

    Timothy Dinkelman - Réponse

  16. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.

    I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

    John Conklin - Réponse

    Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

    abscate - Réponse

  17. It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape. If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.
    • It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape.

    • If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.

  18. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.

    • Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.

    • Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.

    • Take care not to damage the cable. If the adhesive is very strong, heat the case directly beneath the cable with an iOpener to soften the adhesive, and then try again.

    Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

    maccentric - Réponse

  19. Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
    • Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    • Immediately close the retaining flap.

    • The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the closed connector. Take care not to crimp or damage the cable. When fully inserted, the indentations on the sides should not be visible.

    I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

    “After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

    I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

    Thank you for your guidance!

    John Torquido - Réponse

    For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

    John Torquido - Réponse

    I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

    Sulmo Kim - Réponse

  20. Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.
    • Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.

  21. Remove two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the USB-C port.
    • Remove two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the USB-C port.

    I didn’t notice this when removing the USB-C port, but it seems to be a little loose under the screws. I have another MacBook of the same vintage and found that its USB-C port also has a little movement when a cable is plugged in. Not much movement, just a little.

    woikelaw - Réponse

    I missed this comment when I did this job but observed the same

    No apparent effect on function

    abscate - Réponse

    It would have been a help to have pointed out that actually folding the end of this ribbon cable at the USB C end, as shown in your pictures, before attaching it will help to prevent the cable breaking at one of its inner corners while being installed.

    bfg737 - Réponse

    As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.

    Paul Nishikawa - Réponse

  22. Use tweezers to lift the USB-C port just over the hinge screws. Slide the port out and up over the display hinge to remove it. There's very little clearance when removing and installing the USB-C port. If there's not enough room, don't force it. Try removing the display hinge screws and moving the hinges for additional clearance, if necessary.
    • Use tweezers to lift the USB-C port just over the hinge screws.

    • Slide the port out and up over the display hinge to remove it.

    • There's very little clearance when removing and installing the USB-C port. If there's not enough room, don't force it. Try removing the display hinge screws and moving the hinges for additional clearance, if necessary.

    Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes

    1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install

    2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.

    i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons

    abscate - Réponse

    I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.

    Gabriele Nicotra - Réponse

    Step 25 only has one pic

    John M -

    He means 3rd pic of step 26.

    dmjenks -

    If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.

    maccentric - Réponse

    No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?

    The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.

    John M - Réponse

    remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out

    Seth Ferguson -

    totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude

    Seth Ferguson - Réponse

    I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone

    Steve Harris - Réponse

    I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.

    It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.

    I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.

    Mark Schira - Réponse

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

11 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Adam O'Camb

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After replacing the USB-C port and plugged the computer into the charger, I did not hear the usual tone that lets me know that it is charging. I decided to leave it plugged in to see what happens. I also did SMC clear (Shift + Control + Option + Power) for good measure, but that did not appear to make a difference. After several minutes of charging, it made a tone, flashed a battery symbol on the screen, then booted.

woikelaw - Réponse

An update from my USB-C replacement: it turns out that the USB-C replacement did not fix my MacBook. I found that if I powered it down then plugged it into the charger, it will charge.

woikelaw - Réponse

Hi guys! I have a question about this. I have one usb c on my macbook pro 2016 TB that is not working properly. Sometimes I'm able to charge my macbook and sometimes not. In additional I cant use it to transfer data (backup my iPhone and so on). Also, i noticed that my battery is draining a lot with my mac turned off. It might be the case to change the IO board, or it could be worse than that?

Is there any correlation between this usb issue and the battery?

Appreciate your help

Andre.

André Bezerra - Réponse

This repair worked great. The replacement USB-C port fits a little loose with the screws down tight, but maybe it’s designed that way. I had to hold the power down for what felt like a very long minute until it booted back up. Everything works and it’s charging! The fixit tool kit was a life safer.

Greg Zimmerman - Réponse

It is very easy to break the USB -C ribbon cable while installing it. Does anyone have any particular advice for doing this without breaking the cable?

bfg737 - Réponse

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