iBook G4 12" 800 MHz-1.2 GHz Optical Drive Replacement

The "keyboard locking screw" is a transparent plastic screw located between F5 and F6 function keys.

To put back the AirPort card with the clasp (wire brace), make sure the card is pushed against by the wire, not clamped over. The latter situation indicates that the card is not seated deeply enough.

I had a hard time getting the Airport card seated properly when reconstructing. If the wire brace doesn't snap back in easily, then try reseating the card. Don't force it.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS TUTORIAL!

Honestly, this is a lot easier than it looks. The key is take your time and don't force anything. Use tweezers to disconnect cables from logic board. Also, use a mini-head screwdriver like for glasses to pry the case open and go slowly.

Very well explained. Thank you. I had some donated memory cards and had to try twice before success. I found that I did not have to remove the antenna from the airport express and I did not have to remove the keyboard plug from the processor. Enough room to remove and replace memory card with it in.

very gently magnetizing my small philips screwdriver was a HUGE help when putting all the tiny screws back into place... all said and done, there will be a lot of teeny screws to be taken out and put back. To magnetize the screwdriver, I just rubbed it several times in one direction (similar to sharpening a knife) across a strong refrigerator magnet... you only want it just strong enough to hold a screw, but not so magnetized that it corrupts your new hard drive!

When replacing the RAM shield, make sure to pull the antenna cable through the tiny slot in the upper right, or else you'll have to unscrew it all over again.

Be careful that the feet don't shoot up and hit you in the eye when you pry them out!

Each rubber foot has three large tabs occupying 3, 7, and 11 o'clock positions, while a small tab at 9 o'clock position. When you place those rubber feet back to the ring housings, make sure their small tabs aligning with the opening gaps around the rings.

Taking the feet off - I found a thin flathead screwdriver was much better than a pin to lever them off. Also doesn't mark the rubber. Not hard though

Align the ring so that it sits flush before trying to put the screws back in. A small tab in the case needs to align with the ring correctly.

Yes, the rings have to be put back and flushed with the lower case surface. Otherwise, the rubber feet will not stand evenly.

I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

Citation de jackshim :

I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

I, however, was not.

If I am not mistaken, these two screws have slightly heavier heads than all the others, in case this is helpful info for when you reassemble.

I need patience and I need it NOW!!!!

They aren't joking about these being trying times. Steps 15-20 are tough, especially if you don't have a spudger. A small flathead screwdriver works, but will scratch/nick your case.

I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.

I used a flathead screwdriver and an old credit card instead of a spudger. If using the screwdriver, be advised it may damage the case.

Wish I'd read the tip about the credit card! Made a few dents during this procedure as I didn't have a spudger. N.B. Plastic modeling tools are not suitable for this job!

"Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner." This is nearly impossible for me. Instead, I use a small flathead screw driver to gently open up the tab at the corner.

Press inwards between the case and the plastic around the drive. It'll flex the plastic around the drive in and away from the bottom case. The first is about an inch from the center of the slot, then centered on the slot and about one inch past the center.

Be careful here; I scratched up my case here pretty good with the flat head screwdriver I'd used.

Step 20.5: Have coffee and give yourself a pat on the back...

Take care that the monitor cable is tucked in when putting the bottom case back on.

I leave the bottom shield. It was not necessary for me to get it of to dismount the upper top.

on mine, there are six small extra screws to remove.

I left the DC board alone screws, cable and all for my hard drive swap.

No reason for this step or the next few when replacing the hard drive. Leave the DC board and its cable alone!

When re-assembling, make sure the right screw goes in the right-most hole.

I found that I could leave the cable attached if I was just careful with where I placed it when I turned the computer over.

Very helpful!

Probably a good idea to follow the advice about protecting the logic board with foam. I used bubble wrap on this step, but it probably didn't provide enough padding. When I reassembled everything and booted up (successfully!) the screen had a strong bluish tint. Can't seem to get rid of it now. Oops.

Otherwise, many thanks to ifixit and all y'alls for the helpful comments.

My journey of replacing the hard drive stops at step 29. The screw marked with the yellow circle ("One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner") is very tight. The torque I applied wore out the screw head and it becomes the death sentence announcement of the iBook. Sad.

I am happy to announce that my iBook gets its 2nd life with the newly implanted hard drive. The screw marked with the yellow circle was worn out. I ordered a set of "Screw Extracting Pliers" (small) from iFixit in the hope of remedying the problem. Initially, the pliers do not have enough space to work on it because the screw sits in a narrow plastic basin. I file some of the surrounding plastic away to make room. Finally, the pliers "bites" the screw out. Yes!

The screw is put back when the iBook is assembled.

When replacing the upper case, after you've installed your new hard drive, make sure you remember to RECONNECT the trackpad connector. I forgot to connect it when I put the computer back together, and had to take it apart a 2nd time in order to fix my mistake. Other than that I had no problems with this upgrade thanks to the detailed instructions offered here . Thanks iFixit.com!

You can see photos of my upgrade process here if you are interested: http://www.flickr.com/photos/judahs/sets...

Ty iFitit..I replaced the screen on my iBook g4...you guys rock..went without a hitch...hat sitting there for month with a hanging screen...feels good to be mobile again.... THANK YOU....

just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&

Citation de chickenbrothel :

just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&

It helps to use two small tools here: A dental pick (or similar) to hold down the socket (keeps it from separating from the logic board) and a small flathead screwdriver. With your off hand, use the pick to make sure the socket stays put; with your good hand, use the screwdriver. DON'T pry; instead, TWIST the head of the screwdriver to gently coax the connector out of the socket.

Tweezers were also helpful here.

I left the power button cable as it is VERY easy to break. I instead left it plugged in, and flipped the upper case and metal shield up against the screen. Worked well.

I've just done the same thing DRAT ! Is there any way to solder the tiny socket back on to the board ?

First I released the plastic top. Then I removed the touch pad connector. With that, I was able to shift the top case down a inch so the power connector was exposed. I pressed a small screw driver along the middle on the long side of the power connector and twisted back and forth so it would wedge the connector from the socket. I left the speaker(long wires) wires connected and just flipped the case off to the left.

You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

Wished I had read the comment BEFORE trying to pull that stupid connector out. Here is my take away: If you have an iBook 1.33 - DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE CONNECTOR! It's impossible not to break the socket off the logic board. The connector is so firmly in the socket that you can't pull it out.

If you broke it, there is the possibility to solder it, but it's very tricky. But maybe the only chance of saving your machine. Do some google search, there are people who've done it.

Citation de jackshim :

Tweezers were also helpful here.

I used forceps. Quick and easy.

I also pulled the power connector from the board and had to send the board to a repair shop to have the connector soldered back on. Working on tiny surface mount components is not for the faint of heart. Sierra Circuit Repair of Chico CA did a good job but it cost me $100.

Citation de QEII Student IT :

You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

Thank you very much!! Great tip, worked great,it cuts down the risk of logic board repair. I agree with the suggestion of tweezers, long thin tips help to maneuver in tight areas and are great for removing the tape holding the wires to the plastic upper case.

I cloned the original drive onto a larger one, and started following these instructions.

Alas, I just "bricked" my machine as well at this step... the jack broke off the board.

Well, it served admirably for the last few years....

Painful but not critical lesson...

Don't forget put off the mouse pad cable

I concur, you dont have to remove the power button connector.

Great guide...just installed a new ssd.

Make sure you follow the OS X Installation Guide on how to partition etc...

This is very confusing. Next time I'm going to mark the spots where the little screws go with red sharpie.

On my machine, the 5.5 mm Phillips in the upper left corner had a larger-diameter head than the other screws, in case this is helpful info for when you reassemble.

screws to my left in front of pc