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iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement

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  1. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Battery: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  2. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

  3. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Keyboard: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

    • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again. The locking screw is in between the F5 and F6 keys and is a clear piece of plastic.

    • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

  4. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • If the computer has an AirPort card installed, follow the next three steps to remove it.

    • Push the wire clasp away from the AirPort card and toward the display, then rotate up to free it from the RAM shield.

  5. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the AirPort card and pull toward the display.

  6. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

  7. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

  8. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 8, image 1 de 1
    • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

  9. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

    • Make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

  10. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Lower Case: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

    1.3 flathead screwdriver works better than a pin.

    Carlos Ferrari - Réponse

  11. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

  12. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

  13. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver (or Allen screws using an Allen key if these are used).

    • The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

    Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

    dalekaty - Réponse

    Citation de dalekaty :

    Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

    Had the same issue with a T8, although I blamed that on my T8 being quite stripped. Finding an appropriate bit was quite a challenge... but I'm pretty certain a T8 isn't correct. The screws have a hex head, not a Torx... maybe T8 is the closest thing that tends to fit...

    Matt Falcon - Réponse

    The screw on the left wasnt able to get tight for some reason

    Helena - Réponse

    Not Torx, but allen key (British wrench), 2mm

    alicelittle - Réponse

    I attempted this last night following all the steps correctly, when I was done my ibook would not turn on. Now sure where I went wrong? Any ideas. Thank you

    stefanienikole - Réponse

  14. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

  15. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

    • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

    I printed these instructions out, and this one was at the top of page 2. I found the first paragraph amusing enough that I had to show my boss.

    Kristoffer Bisher - Réponse

  16. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 16, image 1 de 1
    • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

    • Be careful not to break this clip!

  17. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 17, image 1 de 1
    • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

  18. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

    For me, this was really the toughest part! Trying to find/get a good grip on the iBook and really *forcing* that spudger around. All without scratching the display.

    bccreative - Réponse

    Once you loosen the the front the seam is very tight. I was able to slide the spudger in the middle of the port side instead of starting at the corner.

    Robert Oliver - Réponse

  19. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 19, image 1 de 1
    • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

  20. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 20, image 1 de 1
    • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

    This was the scariest part for me. I had to wiggle it a lot as it seemed to be stuck. But it did come loose.

    Robert Oliver - Réponse

    There are 4 tabs in the back. It'll come off easier if you use an spudger to release those.

    Carlos Ferrari - Réponse

  21. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 21, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

  22. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Bottom Shield: étape 22, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:

    • Six 3 mm Phillips

    • Three 7.5 mm Phillips

    • One 14 mm Phillips

    My 1 GHz iBook G4 only had the two 7.5 mm Phillips on the right and the two 3 mm Phillips above the battery compartment.

    geekspeak - Réponse

  23. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 23, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the bottom shield off.

    The front of the foil cover has a lip divided into four separate tabs. Use a blade to loosen each as they can be easily bent.

    geekspeak - Réponse

    My dc board had 2 screws. for some reason when i tried to screw them both back in only one got tight. the other one just kept twirling so i left it out. i didnt want to have a loose screw rattling around in my computer.

    also had trouble laying down the wire to the dc board. it wouldnt lay flat but i was able to get it flat enough. overall it worked and the computer is now up and running!

    thank you! it was pretty easy

    Helena - Réponse

  24. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, DC-In Board: étape 24, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.

    This is the first screw of the many on this part of the tear down that really needs the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    turtlejp - Réponse

    At this point alternate hard drive can be connected to logic board for testing. Alternate hard drive and drive cable req'd. Remove hard drive cable from logic board. Plug in alternate cable and drive.

    A81Sturmer - Réponse

    My 1 GHz DC board had two Phillips, one on the far left and one next to the Z10B label.

    geekspeak - Réponse

  25. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 25, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

    My entire black woven cable cover was stuck down pretty well w/ 2x stick tape.

    bccreative - Réponse

  26. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 26, image 1 de 1
    • Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

    On this iBook, the DC board had a small Phillips screw on it.

    adamprall - Réponse

    Woops - never mind - neglected the screw from previous step.

    adamprall - Réponse

    Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

    drscole - Réponse

    Citation de drscole :

    Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

    I agree - having the right tools is the key to this going smoothly. It would have useful to have more detail around where the long and short screws go on the heat shield. This is minor niggle and overall good instructions.

    jlwatts1 - Réponse

    Oops! I hit the wrong button. I did not mean to "Flag as inappropriate".

    geekspeak - Réponse

    Citation de drscole :

    Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

    The egg crate is a good idea. I use a piece of cardboard and I label each step and layout the screws visually as I pulled them out.

    geekspeak - Réponse

  27. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Upper Case: étape 27, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:

    • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment. (Some models may only have two screws.)

    • Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)

    • One 11 mm Phillips in the lower right corner. (if present)

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

    The middle screw along the optical drive got sucked sideways into an opening by something magnetic and proved impossible to get out with a bit of blutack on the end of a screwdriver. In the end turning it over and giving it a smart tap worked.

    tatterjack - Réponse

    - the 3 red screws located around the battery compartment are absent. (I never opened my

    G4 before).

    - the 3 orange screws along the optical drive bezel are deep located and I can't see where to

    place the screwdriver. By trying I run the risk to damage the screw head.

    su40 - Réponse

    I realized that there are no screws 3 red and3 orange, the are only 4 green ones and a yellow one.

    su40 - Réponse

  28. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 28, image 1 de 1
    • We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

    • Turn over the computer and open it.

    • Remove the 2 Phillips screws (3mm) from the edges of the keyboard area.

    • Remove the 4 mm Phillips screw from the lower left corner.

    bottom right philips head screw removed just fine. Upper and lower left don't seem to fit any of my philips screwdrivers. What size are those screws?

    jimryan - Réponse

    The "two 3mm" screws are actually 4mm and the 4mm (orange) is the 3mm

    tjod - Réponse

  29. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 29, image 1 de 1
    • Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps. Be especially careful with these cables; never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly.

    • Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different than the one pictured.

  30. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 30, image 1 de 1
    • Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.

  31. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 31, image 1 de 1
    • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    I have pulled it off, now what?????

    Ester - Réponse

    I have fixed it!! Whooohooo!!

    Bought a soldering bolt and wire, and fixed it in 10 minutes myself, I'm so proud of me..... ;)

    But I hope I won't have to open it again! And the 3 screws which are left.... hmmmm never mind. :D

    Ester - Réponse

    Yup. Take off that shield first. I'm lucky my father in law is good at soldering, because I'm not, and that power switch connector fell off the moment I touched it....

    Jaddle - Réponse

    I skipped this and the next step altogether. Instead of taking the risk of breaking the power and/or speaker sockets, I left them connected. I put a stack of big books just to the left of the iBook. I swiveled the top case off and let it lean against the books. I removed the top shield and carefully swiveled it off and to the left, so it is now leaning on the top case. I had to move the power cable out of the way, and re-orient the top case so it's resting on it's back edge while the shield was resting on it's left edge. Then I slid the iBook towards the edge of the table and disconnected the HD ribbon from below! I then proceeded with removing the HD and putting in the new one.

    Hilal Malawi - Réponse

    When putting the rings back you will need to figure out their correct orientation. Just rotate each ring until you find the position that will make it flush with the case. There are three possible positions but only one of them is the right fit.

    Hilal Malawi - Réponse

    As the other comments make plain, you can't overemphasize that the power connector is in tight, and it is much easier to pull the connector off the board. That's what happened to me -- I'm really bad at soldering, so I will be looking for a replacement board. Oh well.

    Don Solomon - Réponse

  32. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 32, image 1 de 1
    • Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    these connectors can be very loose and break from the logic board. I have left this one connected until after the next step, at which point I can pull it out more carefully and easily.

    -Dan "The Berkeley Mac Guy"

    Dan Fries - Réponse

    I second Dan's method. The top shield makes it impossible to pry between the connector and its socket. The socket is so poorly affixed to the logic board that you must be very careful to apply leverage between the connect and socket.

    Kent - Réponse

    now you tell me!! So then what if you have pulled it off? How very depressing.

    anakowi - Réponse

    If you pull it off, find a place that does micro-soldering. What a pain!

    Check your local Chinatown, you might find someone who worked in an electronics factory, like I did. Or scrap the thing and check on craigslist.org for a replacement.

    Dan Fries - Réponse

    haha - doubt I will ever open up this baby again. That was gruelling. Lucky it was only the built-in speaker cable - I use headphones or a portable speaker if I need sound now.

    anakowi - Réponse

  33. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Top Shield: étape 33, image 1 de 1
    • The screw circled in orange may not be present in some models.

    • Remove the following 16 screws:

    • Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.

    • One 3 mm Phillips. (actual screw not present in image)

    • Two 4 mm Phillips.

    • Be sure to fit the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable, securing the cable to the upper case.

    • Missing in this photo is the Bluetooth antenna present in some iBooks. It is located at the upper right corner of the battery compartment, just above the 4mm screw. You can see the bracket for the antenna in the photo. It is the two I-shaped holes just above the 4mm screw that must be removed in this step. To remove the antenna, slide it toward the LCD, and tilt it vertically back towards yourself.

    Missing in this photo is the Bluetooth antenna present in some iBooks. It is located at the upper right corner of the battery compartment, just above the 4mm screw. You can see the bracket for the antenna in the photo. It is the two I-shaped holes just above the 4mm screw that must be removed in this step. To remove the antenna, slide it toward the LCD, and tilt it vertically back towards yourself. In the next step, where the shield is removed, you will need to slide the antenna through the lower I-shaped hole.

    Sean Brannon - Réponse

  34. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 34, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

    • If your iBook has Bluetooth, as discussed in the previous step, you will need to slide the antenna through the lower I-shaped hole in the shield before completely removing the shield.

    The shield on this iBook had a small sensor threaded through the opening directly above the battery compartment opening, on the right near the edge of it. I just carefully threaded the sensor through that hole in order to remove the shield.

    adamprall - Réponse

  35. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Modem: étape 35, image 1 de 1
    • Due to variations between iBook G4 models, your modem may look slightly different from the picture. All of the following steps apply to either model.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.

  36. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 36, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the modem and modem shield from the bottom.

  37. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 37, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.

    • When replacing the modem, first make sure that both the microphone and display data cables are routed beneath where the modem lies.

  38. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Heat Sink: étape 38, image 1 de 1
    • Turn the computer over and disconnect the fan cable from the logic board.

    • If present, remove the 4 Phillips screws securing the fan to the metal framework (one screw is hidden by the hand in the image) and lift the fan out of the computer. If no screws are present, continue on.

  39. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 39, image 1 de 1
    • Turn the computer over and remove the two Phillips screws from the white plastic fingers of the hinge grill.

    • The longer screw goes on the left (Laptop's right) side.

    Longer screw was on the left on mine

    tatterjack - Réponse

  40. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 40, image 1 de 1
    • Due to variations between iBook G4 models, your heatsink may have either 5 or 6 screws. We've noted all possible positions for screws in the step below. If there's no screw to remove, then skip to the next screw. Be sure that you remove all necessary screws before attempting to remove the heat sink.

    • Remove the following 6 screws and 3 nuts from the heat sink:

    • One 2 mm Phillips extending from a finger on the left edge of the heatsink and adjacent the firewire port (not present on some models)

    • Three 3 mm Phillips from around the fan (some models may only have 2 screws).

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips on the left side of the heat sink (not present on some models).

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips at the top right corner of the heat sink.

    • One 6 mm Phillips at the lower left corner of the heat sink.

    • One 4 mm nut from the right side of the heat sink.

    • Two 4 mm screw nuts with attached springs from either side of the heat sink.

    Mine did not had the screw marked in black and it did had 2 extra 3mm screws holding some sort of bracket where we see the lower pipe on the heatsink in this picture. Also it only had one pipe instead of two and only one heatsink that covers the whole thing instead of two.

    Oh and the nuts seem to be imperial not metric - 3.5mm is too small and 4mm is a bit too big (4mm does do the job though).

    Carlos Ferrari - Réponse

  41. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 41, image 1 de 1
    • It may be necessary to soften the thermal paste between the logic board and heat sink. You can soften the thermal compound using a hairdryer. Move the hairdryer back and forth over the ribbed metal section of the heat sink for one minute. At this point, the heat sink should come free easily.

    • Use a spudger to pry the heat sink up on the left side, near the hard drive.

  42. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 42, image 1 de 1
    • Grasp the heat sink in one hand and lift up the hinge grill in the other hand so that you can remove the heat sink from the computer.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

  43. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: étape 43, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the white plastic fingers of the I/O bezel to the metal framework.

    • The longer screw goes into the longer finger, closer to the display.

  44. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 44, image 1 de 1
    • Lift up the left side of the computer and slide the I/O bezel away.

  45. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 45, image 1 de 1
    • Wedge a spudger between the RJ-11 board and the metal framework and slide the board to the left, off of the logic board.

    The RJ-11 socket looks glued in and I didn't see the need to remove it.

    tatterjack - Réponse

    Sorry for my broken english, I'm italian.

    Anyway following ifixit guide through I got successfully to the end and my ibook is working ok now.

    The only problem I still have is with the keyboard.

    There are some of the keys which don't correspond to the keys I select. I tried by selecting different keyboard flags: USA, italian, italian pro. The one working better is the USA one.

    Can the the problem be generated because the new logic board comes from USA and the old Ibook and its keyboard were bought in Italy ??

    Any suggestion is well accepted.

    Special thanks to Ifixit

    Sergio

    su40 - Réponse

  46. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 46, image 1 de 1
    • The cable you're about to remove is very fragile - do not pull directly on the wires. Instead, try to pry up the connector directly, using a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver if necessary.

    • Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework.

  47. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 47, image 1 de 1
    • Use the black plastic loop to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

  48. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 48, image 1 de 1
    • There are two different styles of optical drive ribbon. If the cable extending from the optical drive is white, skip this step. If the cable is orange, then complete this step and skip the next two steps.

    • Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon from the logic board.

  49. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 49, image 1 de 1
    • This is a diagram of the ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.

    • 1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

    • 2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

  50. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 50, image 1 de 1
    • Release the optical drive ribbon clamp as described above. Slide the optical drive ribbon out of its connector.

  51. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 51, image 1 de 1
    • Tilt the computer up and disconnect the orange hard drive ribbon cable from the logic board.

  52. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 52, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the hard drive to the metal framework.

  53. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 53, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the hard drive up, carefully guiding the cable through the slot in the lower case.

  54. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 54, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the logic board to the metal framework.

  55. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 55, image 1 de 1
    • Close the display and flip the computer over.

    • The 3.5 mm Phillips screw indicated below with an orange circle may be absent in some models.

    • Remove the following 8 screws:

    • Four 4 mm Phillips.

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips near the sleep light connector (may not be in your specific model).

    • One 3 mm Phillips with a large head in the lower left corner.

    • One wide 4 mm Phillips.

    • One 3 mm Phillips.

  56. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 56, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the inverter and sleep light cables from the logic board.

    • When replacing the logic board, make sure that the inverter cable is not pinned under the logic board.

  57. iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Logic Board Replacement: étape 57, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the logic board far enough to access and disconnect the battery connector.

    • Be sure to connect the battery connector before seating the logic board in the metal framework.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

18 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

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iRobot

Membre depuis le 09/24/09

1 Réputation

636 tutoriels rédigés

2 commentaires

First of all, outstanding! I couldn't have done it otherwise. I especially liked the photography. I am a pro in that field and I know the good stuff when I see it.

I just have a few small suggestions.

1) You might want to warn about grounding for rank amateurs like me.

2) The screw sheets were fantastic but it might help to add the step/s involved. Also I found double sided foam tape was great for keeping the screws in place.

3) When removing the back cover I used kitchen matches camphored at one end as shims as I went along so I would not lose ground as I continued around the bottom cover. I also found a fifth of Jack Daniel's helped to steady my hands and give me patience.

4) The whole thermal compound thing was confusing. I looked up the suggested procedure and didn't know what to do about "the blue pads". I posted a question and got conflicting answers. It would be great if this could get resolved once and for all.

5) You might want to talk about installing the RAM when replacing the logic board

Thanks!

Mark Wright - Réponse

step 27: I am not able to recognize which tool shell I use to take off red and yellow screws.

I have your toolkit 54 Bit Driver.

su40 - Réponse

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