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Desserrez les deux vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée à votre iMac.
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Retirez la trappe d'accès.
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Retirez les vis suivantes le long du bord inférieur de votre iMac :
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Trois vis Torx T8 6 mm
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Une vis Torx T8 8 mm (côté droit de l'emplacement de la RAM sur le 2015)
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Insérez une carte plastique dans l'angle de la zone de ventilation, dans la partie supérieure du boîtier arrière.
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Poussez la carte vers le haut de l'iMac pour déverrouiller le loquet du cadre avant.
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Sortez le cadre avant du boîtier arrière.
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Répétez l'opération pour l'autre côté du cadre avant.
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Si vous ne parvenez pas à déverrouiller l'écran avant, essayez de soulever légèrement le bord inférieur du cadre avant hors du boîtier arrière (la procédure est décrite en détail dans les étapes suivantes) et répétez l'opération de déverrouillage des loquets.
I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...
the photo of latch is no longer there at Photobucket
Citation de ReneBruce :
I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...
Thanks, your picture helped me.
Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.
Good tip. I sort of did this out of desperation before reading this. Seem to work to get it apart. I'll have to see about getting it back together.
Wow, I really got stuck on the bezel. I tried a credit card, even a flexible metal scraper, nope nothing budged. I finally got going with help from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzuBW3mu7... which the guy has the machine lying on its back, then you can carefully bend the front bezel up until you see the latches, and I got the scraper in front of the screen and un-did the latches that way. Onto the next step!
Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.
Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.
Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.
Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!
This was perfect! I wish the original instructions mentioned the magnets.
I used magnets I pilfered from an old hard drive.
veganmo -
The iMacs I've taken apart open simply with a magnet. I made a video to show exactly how the latch works inside. You do need a strong magnet like the hard drive internal magnet suggestion however they can be found in many places, just look for 'rare earth' or 'neodymium' and you'll find one. probably .3" cube would be big enough.
there is the video that shows how the latch works. of course you may need TWO magnets to do both latches at the same time.
Save yourself some headache and get a magnet for this. I used these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PWMVSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sometimes just one will do the job, other times I've had to use all 4 together.
Much easier than trying to use a card.
sleestack is right on. The youtube vid is excellent for sliding the case right off without spudges and cards, etc. The vid's still there as of today, 9/30/2014. And the guy's foil removal is right on target, too. Very simple to replace the battery. I use this old 2006 computer with an old version of the PC program for Jobclock and only for that with Parallels 6 running the PC app. Don't want to upgrade or change anything at this point, going to milk it a couple more years. Got a nice big i5 for everything else. Oh, happy day.
Apple designed the latch to be released with a Magnet. That's it. That is the tool to be used.
Avoid frustration, hassles, wasted time: simply buy a "neodimio" Magnet.
Actually yes – IMHO It would have preferred iFixtit had mentioned a MAGNET to release the front Bezel, the credit card in an awkward and misleading (and not so smart) method.
I hope iFixit will change Step 3.
Be very careful here. One of the sides did not release using the plastic card. I tried to push it a bit but it would not give. It did work using 2 cards. What I did not realized until the very end, when I turned the imac back on, is that I broke the display. Thanks a lot ifixit. I get the hard drive back to work now but with a damaged display. And I can't even buy a replacement one from you.
Yes the screens in these machines are easy to break. I've opened these sorts of machines at least a 40 times. You do need to be very careful with the display. The won't take any pressure from a wayward thumb or finger etc. I have broken one once, trying to get a latch to give. You have to be very conscious not to out any fingers in the display at all.
BUT, how you think this is anyone's but your own fault is beyond me. iFixit has no blame to take here.
Please everyone, read through all instructions carefully and learn from others'.
And to this poster, go buy one of these machines from eBay or find in one in hard rubbish to repair yours. These white iMacs are almost 10 years old now. And are scrap in most people's minds.
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Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface plane.
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Pour soulever le cadre avant hors de l'iMac, effectuez les opérations suivantes simultanément :
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À l'aide de vos pouces, enfoncez les clips de fixation de la RAM et maintenez l'iMac vers le bas.
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À l'aide de vos index, soulevez le bord supérieur du cadre avant, situé au dessus des emplacements de la RAM.
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Soulevez le cadre avant avec vos deux index.
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Après avoir dégagé les clips de fixation de la RAM, soulevez le bord inférieur du cadre avant suffisamment pour libérer le bas du boîtier arrière.
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i posted a note on the next page about disconnecting the microphone and camera cable. may help. reed it before disconnect.
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Débranchez le câble du microphone.
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Débranchez le câble vidéo en retirant le connecteur de la prise sur le support vidéo.
there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.
Citation de sebalancea :
there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.
I didn't even use the wall, I just carefully pivoted the frame backwards and laid it on the table without disconnecting the wires
Be careful. My microphone and camera cables looked a little bit different from this. My camera cable connector did NOT plug directly into the camera board (and I almost tried pulling the cable out of the board), but rather there was a cable to cable connector that was stuffed behind the monitor. I had to skip this step until the monitor was out. I have an early 2006 20" iMac.
My Mac had a different camera board and it didn't appear that the cables could be detached. Leaving them in place and propping up the back of the case worked for me.
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Décollez le blindage EMI inférieur du boîtier arrière.
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Collez le blindage EMI sur la face avant de l'écran afin qu'il ne vous gêne pas.
Citation de Bob :
I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.
I agree, and tape doesn't stick to the screen (I tried and the tape came loose before I was done)
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Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 5 mm par lesquelles le câble de données de l'écran est fixé à la carte mère.
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Tirez sur la languette d'extraction noire du connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
on this step I just forgot (there always something to forget!!) to connect back display data cable connector to the logic board, after I replaced the hard drive. Don't worry nothing happens. Hwen I switched on the iMac and it was just functioning alright and normal but I wasn't able see anything other than a black screen :)
If you got a black screen but a normal white light on the right bottom corner, think abot the connector !
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Décollez le ruban adhésif EMI des deux bords verticaux de l'écran.
This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.
Citation de mindzeebeez :
This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.
I found that using the plastic card to remove the cover worked well in lifting the EM tape from the screen. Also step 10 & 11 appear to be reversed since you can't get to the screws until you have lifted up the display (this can only occur once you have dealt with the EM shield)
Peeling back the tape was very time consuming. I bet the pros just cut it and patch with new metallic tape. This step was the worst.
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Laissez le blindage EMI inférieur suspendu à l'écran.
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Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 7,5 mm par lesquelles l'écran est fixé au boîtier arrière.
Citation de Daniel :
This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.
My mistake, it's actually a T-10, but the T-9 was the only one I could get to work due to the limited angle.
I believe this is where the $4.95 looong T-10 screwdriver shown in the recommended tools would have come in handy. We managed to make the driver from the 54 bit set work by holding the bit driver with a vice grip, which made it possible to get down in there. The various holders that came with the set were just a hair too thick.
These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.
Citation de mindzeebeez :
These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.
Try sticking the screw onto the driver with a tiny piece of blu-tac. Worked for me.
If your Torx screwdriver isn't magnetized, rub the tip 8-10 times on the magnet inside the white plastic cover (the one that holds the remote to the side of the monitor). Prestro... your Torx screwdriver is now magnetized!
I used a strong wall magnet to magnetize my screwdriver. It worked perfectly! Your tip was very helpful and pointed me to an answer that worked for me.
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Soulevez le bas de l'écran et faites-le pivoter vers le dessus de l'iMac.
If you remove the inverter wires after dealing with the EM shield you can flip the display without detaching the LCD data cable. Use the foot of the iMac (with a towel to protect the display) to hold the display while you work inside.
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Débranchez les deux câbles inverter de la carte inverter.
Watch out when reconnecting the inverter cables - the little pins on the inverter board are very easily bent indeed when the plug isn’t put back totally straight. I happened to bend one on the lower edge, resulting in the display being only dimly lit in the lower half and requiring me to open the machine once more. Since I only flipped up the display unit (as in some of the comments on step 16) I could skip step 15 and never touched the inverter cables on the top edge of the inverter board.
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Débranchez les deux câbles inverter sur le dessus de l'inverter en utilisant la méthode décrite à l'étape précédente.
I would mark the top of the large inverter cable connectors somehow, with a marker or pencil. My connectors had writing on the bottom, not the top as pictured, and I bent the pins trying to reinsert it incorrectly since the top and bottom look similar. Nearly all the other connectors have an obvious top and bottom.
Take pictures with iPhone of all tricky connectors and refer to them on reassembly:-)
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Faites pivoter l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit presque perpendiculaire au boîtier arrière et soulevez-le pour retirer le blindage EMI collé sur le dessus.
You don't need to peel off the display from the top. Just lean it toward a wall etc. in a perpendicular angle. If you don't move the mac while you perform the following steps, it won't flip or fall down. You can also save step 15 this way, as the wires are long enough to stay connected.
Why peel it off? I just left it there in the perpendicular position leaning against the wall. Didn't annoy me at all when I changed the hard drive.
alex, Jul 02 2012
I've seen a few people comment having found their Airport dead after hard drive swap. It's really easy to rip off the wire from Airport antenna (up there nearby the mic and camera, to the left from them). The wire goes through the holes of upside EMI shielding and raising the display too high while trying to peel the shielding off can yank the wire so it gets loose from the soldering.
It looks like I'm late to the party but here goes anyway... I have Ubuntu Kylin installed on my iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and I want to use the iMac's display for my Linux install on that unit AND be able to switch the video going to the screen from my iMac to what's displayed on my Mac Mini. I think what I'm asking is how can I split the display so I can switch the video input to the video card from one machine to another.
You do not have to disassemble the logic board! At this point, you have to disassemble the hard disk, unscrew the 4 screws and the big power connector. The second small cable, without disassembling the motherboard, is enough to make it pass sideways, pulling away with a bit of force on plastic and the beat sink. The small sponge gasket must be removed and then rested. 3 minutes in total from this point!
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Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
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Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the rear case.
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Pull the left speaker out of the rear case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the AirPort Extreme card.
I only had one of these connectors on the Airport extreme card (in the lower position).
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Use a metal spudger to disconnect the SATA data cable up off the logic board.
Be really careful disconnecting the SATA cable. Don't tug too hard, or tug at all really. I broke mine clear off the board and according to multiple sources it's not easy/worth trying to fix. So now it can't read the internal hard drive anymore.
How you fix it? I had the same situation.
While pulling on the SATA cable, the entire plastic socket base came off in my hand, leaving a bunch of metal socket prongs sticking up in the air. Fortunately I was able to push the plastic socket base back onto the prongs. Next time I'm going to skip this step, as it isn't really necessary.
I had the same situation and it seems it is stick with glue or something. I was not able to put it back again. Any tip?
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Pull the IR board cable connector away from its socket on the IR board.
In fact it is easier to unscrew (T6) the metallic support and leave the card attached to the cables
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De-route the speaker cables from beneath the IR Board and heatsink assembly.
I had to loosen the IR board (two Torx T6 screws) to make space to get the speaker wire out.
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Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
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Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the right speaker to the logic board.
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Lift the right speaker out of the rear case and move it out of the way.
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Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
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Disconnect the speaker cable connector by lifting it straight up off its socket on the logic board.
Mine was assembled with the Bluetooth connector ran such that it precludes removing the speakers completely, meaning step 28 had to be done while I was over there.
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Disconnect the HDD fan and power button from the logic board by pulling their connectors straight up off the sockets on the logic board.
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If necessary, remove the pieces of tape holding the SATA data cable to the logic board.
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Move the SATA data cable away from the face of the logic board.
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Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
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Disconnect the DC-In cable by simultaneously depressing both locking arms and pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board toward the top of your iMac.
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Pull the ambient light sensor cable connector up off the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna cable connector up off the Bluetooth board.
Apologies for the ignorance, but would using a spudger on something like the Bluetooth antenna connector necessarily break it? Will some special glue be required to re-attatch? I will definitely take this challenge up (better than buying a new computer and very rewarding), but it's little things like that that give me pause.
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Carefully de-route the IR board cable out from under the IR board and move it out of the way of the logic board.
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Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:
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Camera/IR board cable.
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Optical drive fan.
The camera/IR connector was a real nightmare. The connector deformed and started disintegrating when I tried to remove it. Rather than destroy my computer, I just pushed the connect back as near as I could, and moved on. Luckily, it is possible to perform the procedure without taking off this cable.
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Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor cable from the logic board by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.
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Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive ribbon cable connector to the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.
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Bend the optical drive ribbon cable back away from the logic board.
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Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:
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Hard drive thermal sensor cable.
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CPU fan cable.
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Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the top of the heat sink framework to the chassis.
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Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
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Three coarse-thread T10 Torx.
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Three fine-thread T10 Torx.
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One long coarse-thread T10 Torx.
when I was removing the one long coarse-thread (yellow one), its support beneath it broke. I was very careful actually but I think these things unavoidable if you are threading an old computer (I am using it after 1 week its release)
so I put some glue (very very little quantity) in its remaining hole, just to keep the screw in that hole
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Carefully rotate the top edge of the logic board out of the rear case and lift the board up out of the iMac, minding the RAM arms and any cables that may get caught.
Turning the logic board to remove it, pay attention to the side rubber rails, and underlying adhesive that seals the doors behind the imac
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Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
38 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Un commentaire
Dear Walter Galan,After disassembling my Apple IMac,I happened to see your guide.Ofcourse very interesting.Now I want your expert tips to solve my problem.When I switched on the device,I got only vertical color lines on the display.No apple symbol or letters,but initial sound was there.Kindly let me know the exact problem and how to solve.If you mail me the circuit diagram of the motherboard,it would be very usefull to me.Also reference voltages at various stages. My mail id : saswra@gmail.com.
Thanking you
Ramachandran
Swapping in a new CPU and an SSD took me about 10 hours. I did take a dinner break and spent another hour rooting around in my garage to find my thermal paste. Still, this procedure can take a long time.
gordonhamachi - Réponse
Only a french translation proposal. We use to say “démontage” instead of “installation'“ in that specific case. ;-) (Dismantling)
francis barbier - Réponse