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iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement

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  1. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Access Door: étape 1, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Access Door: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Unplug your iMac's AC cord along with any peripheral devices.

    • Lay your iMac face-down on a soft, clean surface as shown.

    • Be sure there isn't any dirt or debris on your work surface, as it may scratch the glass panel on the front of your iMac. We recommend placing a towel between the iMac and the work surface.

    • Loosen the three Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom edge of your iMac.

    • All three screws will remain captive in the access door.

    • Remove the access door.

    Before beginning unplug your iMac.

    Henry Barnett - Réponse

    The screws are not phillips #1 as implied above. My phillips#2 bit fit.

    John McWilliams - Réponse

    Yes phillips #2 is the correct Bit

    Heath - Réponse

    Whenever I go this “deep” into any computer that has a motherboard battery, like the CR2032 for this iMac, I’ll add a new battery to my workflow. I’m in the “neighborhood” anyway.

    The battery is in a spring-loaded compartment, which requires patience and persistence.

    I make sure to test the new battery before installation. (The “3-2-1 Rule” applies: 3 of something means 2, 2 means 1, and 1 means none - I keep spare batteries on hand.)

    When I took part in my dual-drive adventure, I also added a thorough dusting (outside/outdoors) - phew!

    Carrick - Réponse

  2. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, RAM: étape 2, image 1 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, RAM: étape 2, image 2 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, RAM: étape 2, image 3 de 3
    • Gently slide the black plastic RAM pull tab out from the RAM slot.

    • Pull the black plastic tab away from the bottom edge of the iMac to eject the module(s) on that side of the RAM bay.

    • This may require a bit of force.

    It is far harder than I thought you have to pull REALLY hard and then there will be a little click and than you can gently pull out the RAM.

    Alison Newton - Réponse

    Press really hard, to the point you think you’ll cut your thumb, you’ll hear a slight ‘click’. If it’s not properly installed, the iMac will ‘beep, beep, beep’ In protest upon booting…

    Brian -

    I found it best to make use of the factory ‘pull tabs’. Much much easier than trying to pull the ram out by hand. It may seem like a good idea but, don’t be tempted to use pliers.

    Brian -

    Just FYI you can install 32GB’s of RAM in this machine. I have been using it this way for over 2 years now.

    Heath - Réponse

    Thanks for your Useful guide …. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2428 RAM Replacement was performed step by step on my Imac and every thing is perfect right now.

    Jaime Salazar - Réponse

    I was able to remove one side of the ram, but the other side would not budge. I was afraid that I was going to rip the plastic tab out of the computer. Any suggestions?

    Paula McCaulla - Réponse

    Do you know if 3 ram modules installed would work ? or if it should only be 1, 2 or 4 ?

    I currently have 2x2gb installed, but I only want to add 1x4gb to have 8gb in total.

    Thanks!

    Nikokow - Réponse

    Only install 1, 2, or 4. And preferably with the same gb for each module.

    Snuf Box -

    is it completely manditory to take out the ram? why not just keep it in? for some guides for replacing other components you dont have to, but in some you do. why is this the case? does it have to do with not getting shocked because there is power stored in there or some other reason? i was just wondering tho...

    Collin Bradac - Réponse

  3. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Slide the old RAM module(s) out of their slots in the RAM bay and set them aside.

    would this be a good time to increase the size of the RAM too? Would it be as simple as slipping the new RAM in when redoing the steps? Thanks

    timreespt - Réponse

  4. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 4, image 1 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 4, image 2 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 4, image 3 de 3
    • Repeat the process in the previous steps to remove the RAM module(s) from the other side of the RAM bay.

  5. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 5, image 1 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 5, image 2 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • When installing new RAM modules, it is important to orient them correctly.

    • Be sure the small notch cut into each RAM module (shown in the first picture) mates with the protrusion in each RAM slot (shown in the second picture).

    • Your iMac has four RAM slots. Be sure to slide each RAM module into its slot horizontally. This will prevent getting the modules stuck between two of the adjacent slots.

    • Once you have oriented the new RAM modules correctly, gently slide them completely into the iMac and use your thumbs to firmly seat them in their sockets.

    When reinstalling RAM in this machine or any iMac with upgradable RAM slots push hard to get them to go in (Apple really did make this one harder than it needed to be). If you don't push hard it won't go in and your computer won't work. (trust me on this learned the hard way)

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    I am having trouble with bottom 2 slots. As I get beeping sounds when using them. When removed it boots properly. I tried & tried to push the 2 , 2GB ram modules into the bottom slots BUT all get is beeping. Guess I have to settle for 4GB Rather than 8 unless someone has a suggestion.

    Doug - Réponse

    Try swapping the to the other slots & don’t forget to press really hard until you hear the ‘click’.

    Brian -

    Is there an expirience to settle 1600 MgH Ram instead 1333 MgH manual required?

    Mikhail B. Bryanskiy - Réponse

    The Memory Maxxer RAM upgrade kit for the iMac 12,1 EMC 2428 suggests the machine can run 32 gb but Apple’s website says it can run a maximum of 16 gb.

    Are we sure 32 gb can run on this machine?

    Paul

    steedz - Réponse

    Added 16GB for a total of 20GB, runs great, do make sure of the “click”, the beep is disturbing

    Butt Muffins - Réponse

    2x2 GB 1333 MHz RAM were installed as delivered. I couldn’t manage to get those two out of their slots. I don’t want to damage anything. So, I put 2x8 GB RAM 1333 MHz RAM bars in the other two empty spare slots to have 20 GB RAM in total. The iMac runs fine with it. As described above, make sure to push RAM until they ‘click’ in completely.

    Matthias Brandl - Réponse

    Why are we taking out the RAM modules just to put them back in on the next step ?

    Jesse Fenton - Réponse

    Why do we need the spudger?

    Ross - Réponse

  6. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Glass Panel: étape 6, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Glass Panel: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)
    $14.95
    J'achète
    • Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown.

    • Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

    • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

    • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Réponse

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Réponse

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Réponse

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Réponse

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Réponse

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Réponse

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Réponse

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Réponse

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai - Réponse

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers - Réponse

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio - Réponse

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell - Réponse

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam - Réponse

  7. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 7, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 7, image 2 de 2
    • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

    • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

    • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Réponse

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 - Réponse

    I use a Swiffer duster from above at the last moment before I let the magnets grab the glass cover. This has worked so well the last dozen or so times I’ve replaced a glass cover since I never have access to a “clean room” and don’t wear a “bunny suit”.

    Also, more dust will shed from your skin if you’ve just taken a shower, so I like to finish these repairs in the morning before a shower.

    gatortpk - Réponse

  8. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Display: étape 8, image 1 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Display: étape 8, image 2 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Display: étape 8, image 3 de 3
    • Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case.

    • The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display.

    Replacing the screws , especially the two uppermost ones , is awkward due to the magnets attracting the screws off the Torx driver

    Anoop Sahal - Réponse

    I’ve done an HDD replacement on an A1174 (and I’m about to do this model), which is nightmarish, but by far the best solution I found was to use a bit of Blu Tack or the equivalent on the driver.

    Boris - Réponse

    I’ve just replaced the screws by making a little tube from paper and wrapping it round each screw to keep it contained. A cut-down straw would be perfect for job.

    Guy Whittaker - Réponse

    I second this but use a tube of cardboard instead, then its quite easy.

    jeank75 -

  9. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.

    • Do not lift it too much. There are several cables attaching the display to the logic board.

    After sliding the display slightly towards the top edge, enough for the bottom edge to clear the retainers, an alternative is to raise the bottom edge out. Then unplug the LED backlight power cable (this step + 2), unplug the LCD thermal sensor cable (this step + 4), unplug the display data cable (this step + 3), and the display may be rotated over the top edge while leaving the vertical sync cable attached (this step + 1).

    Jerry - Réponse

  10. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 10, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 10, image 2 de 2
    • Pull the vertical sync cable connector out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.

    Do not try to pull the plug off the circuit board as it's soldered. Pull the cable sideways out of the socket.

    Alex Campbell - Réponse

    Skipped step 5-10. I used two 5-6" chopsticks to prop up the display, this gave me more than enough room to complete the rest of the steps. I only had to disconnect the 3 cables are directly connected to the hard drive. Replacing the Seagate hard drive with another Seagate hard drive eliminated any cable issues. Now I have 2TB SSDH

    jaime martinez - Réponse

    I was also able to skip steps 5 thru 10, which meant no messing with any cables except for the two for the HD (steps 13+14). Used a credit card to start the removal of glass panel (step 2) - much easier than I imagined. After removing display screws (step 3) I simply had a friend hold up the display's bottom edge as far as the cables would allow (careful not to stress at connection to logic board) and this provided enough room to remove the HD bracket screws (step 11), detach the HD cables, and remove the HD. Was replacing a failed 1TB Seagate with a 3TB Seagate so no problems with compatibility when reattaching the HD cables and everything worked fine when I restored the OS and data to the new HD. No fan issues. I did take great care to not get fingerprints on the inside of the glass panel and to blow off any dust specks before reinstalling it. It was a bit tricky to get the new HD back in without letting the magnets get a hold of it, so thanks for the warning posted here about that!

    Chuckles McBunny - Réponse

    On my mid 2010 Imac I found it was not necessary to disconnect any cables (except of course those attached to the drive). Simply angle the monitor away from the case to a safe distance without stressing any cables and secure with tape. With a stubby screw driver it was easy to access and remove the drive.

    Michael Husselbee - Réponse

    Skipped steps 6-10; did step 5 so could lift top of display higher, then propped up. A photo of whole interior here would help (hard disk is top center). Used pliers holding T10 bit at right angle to unscrew hard disk holder. SSD installed loose (macOS and fan control app already loaded).

    David Menges - Réponse

  11. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 11, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 11, image 2 de 2
    • Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.

    • Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac).

    This is real tricky it is fragile and you have to pull it along the logic board.

    John - Réponse

    First push down on the edge of the connector closest to bottom edge of the iMac. This unlatches the locking mechanism at the top edge of the connector. Then gently wiggle the connector away from its socket.

    Oshoma Momoh - Réponse

  12. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 12, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 12, image 2 de 2
    • The display data cable plug has a wire lock. Disengage the plug's lock by rotating the plastic tab so that it points upward. (It is not a pull tab.)

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    This cable is very short, I would remove it before any of the others. First time I did this, I didn't realize this and this cable just popped out of it's socket. Luckily, the board wasn't damaged.

    maccentric - Réponse

    i damaged my (step7) cable, and my iMac screen won't work, how to fix this?

    Ersan Rasubala - Réponse

    I did the same thing. The pins are VERY easy to bend. I replaced it with a new cable from this company.

    http://www.macpalace.com/922-9497-cable-...

    Waiting for it to arrive.

    Michael -

    I wish this step was listed as a warning before lifting the monitor and as the first cable to undo. I broke it as it popped up and out, had to trash my Mac and I am stuck with a new hard drive.

    Frank1701a - Réponse

    I followed the directions to a T and everything worked going back together. That cable in step 7 is delicate so one must be very careful.

    dustynnelson -

    Same problem for me. I damaged this cable and am ordering one now.

    This is a tough step so I would also suggest removing this cable first.

    lyleberman - Réponse

    Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.

    asle -

    Ok finally got the cable and was able to successfully finish the project.

    That video cable is ROUGH to install.

    lyleberman - Réponse

    The same thing happened for me. That cable was by far the shortest and a slight pull of the display up caused the connector to come free. Luckily it wasn't damaged by this. It was pretty unclear to me how that connector fit in as well. It slides in and out parallel to the surface of the mother board, up towards the top of the iMac to unplug and down towards the bottom to plug in. I agree, if I were to do this repair again that is the first interior cable I would disconnect. Maybe a closeup of the cable plugged in and unplugged to show exactly how it engages and disengages would be good as well.

    danieljseta - Réponse

    It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.

    asle - Réponse

    This is by far the best way round to do this as trying to refit the cable to the logic board is a complete nightmare.

    Russ -

    I agree with asle, manipulating the display end of the cable would be easier - at least it cannot be any harder then manipulating the motherboard end.

    Jerry -

    well I did all t these steps and now the iMac won't turn on at all. I guess the big cable is not connected to the board as it used to... Mac is out of warranty so it's going out the door. RIP

    Gilbert Palau - Réponse

    this thing is super fragile. i had to order a new one. i'd recommend removing the other end at the top of the display.

    m Burm - Réponse

    this part is not complicated if you understand at first how the lock works.. remove the lock is easy, reassemble the cable and connect it is very problematic because the space to work is very tiny, but if you are carefully, it should be not a problem . try to see some videos from youtube first!

    Cristian Pizarro - Réponse

    This totally blows.. If you want to do this correctly and not destroy your computer over this step, - OWC’s video will show you EXACTLy what to do with the display cable ..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation...

    Luis Garcia - Réponse

    Don’t raise the display more than 3-4 inches. Pull the tape off the back of the display and unhook the cable from the display, instead of trying to remove it from the motherboard. As soon as I raised the display, the cable snapped loose. Ordered a new cable from Amazon. Am waiting to see if works ok.

    john - Réponse

    The worst thing about the whole tear-down procedure, was the display data ribbon cable in this step. As others have noted, It popped out of its socket on the mother board while disconnecting the lcd. I didn’t get a chance to see exactly how it connected on to the moboard . I damaged the dainty and minute ribbon end while trying to re-connect it to the wrong side of the receptacle. Duh! I feel so stupid. :(

    I had to order a new ribbon cable ($14) . Luckily, i was able to plug new ribbon into the fragile moboard connector adequately, and then the lcd end, during re-assembly. This re-assembly step is made for a very small person with extremely small hands and big eyes (like someone out of Gulliver’s travels).

    Dan Packard - Réponse

    2010 iMac SSD kit from OWC. Their video does not adequately explain the difficulty of re-installing the display port ribbon cable into the logic board. The best procedure would be to follow asle (see prior comment 8/11/15). The problem is exasperated by the fact that the plug into the LCD is covered in tape.

    Devere - Réponse

    Why is this not step 5? By the time I lifted display, the cable had already come out. I think it damaged it.

    Greg Cox - Réponse

    Got VERY lucky with my SSD replacement. Just leaning the display back popped the cable off the logic board, and I had a very difficult time reinstalling the screen. It might be that the wire bail wasn’t secured in the first place, or the machine has been opened up prior to my obtaining it. I eventually used a parts box to rest the LCD high enough to reinstall the cable. Agree that this should be the first cable to be disconnected and last to be reconnected. Perhaps disconnecting it from the LCD should be considered as a first step?

    phantom - Réponse

  13. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 13, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 13, image 2 de 2
    • Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • If your fan is spinning full speed after completion, check this connection or the hard drive's thermal sensor cable.

    Be very careful - this connector very difficult to disconnect, and you have a high risk of pulling the cable pins out of the connect. If you have disconnected the 3 other cables, you can have a helper rotate the screen out of the way while you remove the hard drive.

    Brian Tsai - Réponse

    I found this connector impossible to remove

    Anoop Sahal - Réponse

    I also found this extremely difficult to remove. Tiny cable with a death grip. I tried using two spudgers, my fingernails, and walking it out. In the end, I used two spudgers and pried it up, using leverage from the clip to the right.

    Also, i recommend setting the iMac upright for this. I rested the screen on my chest while I dual wielded my spudgers.

    Alex Grayson - Réponse

    eer ist zerbrochen! hoffe krieg ihn dann trotzdem wieder rein

    Peter Pawlowicz - Réponse

    This was connector was impossible to remove. Like a previous commenter, I did this with the machine upright and with the LCD Panel resting on my upper chest. Ultimately, the pins pulled out of the socket! Once they were out, it was relatively easy to remove the socket. I completed the drive replacement, (installed a 1 TB SSD) and then replaced the pins in the socket and reassembled the machine. One mental error I made was I couldn’t remember the correct orientation for the Black and White wires in the socket. In looking at the photos here on iFixIt, it looks like I reversed their orientation. However, the machine seems to be running fine. I installed macos High Sierra and migrated my data from my old HD and the machine has been running for two days now. I would hate to have to go back in and remove the socket and reverse the wire orientation. Anyone have advise on this?

    jmaher - Réponse

    In followup to my previous post, I launched TechTool Pro 9.6.1 and ran the Sensors Test. All Sensors tests were passed. These included:

    LCD Proximity, LCD Thermal Compensation 2, LCD Proximity, Thermal Compensation. Machine seems to be running fine.

    jmaher -

  14. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.

  15. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Optical Drive: étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following four screws:

    • One 9.3 mm T10 Torx screw with a large head

    • Three 9.3 mm T10 Torx screws with a normal sized head

    The 4 srews are equal

    hybanibienen - Réponse

  16. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 16, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 16, image 2 de 2
    • Pull the optical drive thermal sensor connector toward the top edge of the iMac to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    No need to do this! Just gently pull up the felt-pad sticky on top of the thermal sensor (looks like a tiny circuit board), then (again gently) peel the thermal sensor off the ODD. Leave it hanging while you remove the ODD and replace it with the SSD, then just put the thermal sensor covered by the protective felt-pad back onto the SSD enclosure.

    cdansmith1 - Réponse

    I agree with cdansmith1, above.

    I had removed the sensor completely. Booted up and the fan was like a jet engine - 4200rpm! I opened up the mac again to check the LCD thermal sensor cable was connected properly (as warned in Step 8). It was.

    So, I simply used the spudger to peel off the felt sticky pad from and then the optical drive sensor too from the drive I'd taken out. Stuck the sensor onto the SSD using the same sticky pad, plugged it back into the original socket. Bingo. Booted up and everything was back to normal.

    Monkeyrebirth - Réponse

  17. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 17, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 17, image 2 de 2
    • Lift the inner edge of the optical drive and maneuver its connector past the GPU frame attached to the logic board.

    • Carefully pull the optical drive off its mounting pins on the right side of the outer case to gain clearance for disconnecting the optical drive cable.

    • Allow the optical drive to hang down as you de-route the optical drive thermal sensor connector from behind the GPU heat sink.

    this part is complicated because the wire is very delicate. when you try to extract it passing through the others elements this wire trap it very easily on the other elements of the logic board

    Cristian Pizarro - Réponse

  18. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the optical drive cable by pulling its connector away from the optical drive.

    • Remove the optical drive from the iMac.

    • Do not forget to also move the thermal sensor from the optical drive to the enclosure when you install the second hard drive.

  19. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Optical Drive Fan: étape 19, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the single 13 mm T10 Torx screw securing the optical drive fan to the outer case.

    This is the one with a large head.

    hybanibienen - Réponse

  20. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 20, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the optical drive fan off the pins attached to the outer case.

  21. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 21, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the optical drive fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the optical drive fan from the iMac.

    If you need to clean it watch here how to easily open it: '''https://youtu.be/MWHcPpSL4O0'''

    jeank75 - Réponse

  22. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Logic Board: étape 22, image 1 de 1
    • In the proceeding steps, you will disconnect the following cables:

    • SD Board and microphone

    • Left/Right Speaker

    • Wi-Fi Antenna

    • Bluetooth/Ambient Light Sensor/Camera/Left Temperature Sensor, Hard Drive Temperature Sensor and Hard Drive Fan

    • CPU Fan/Ambient Temperature and Power Button

    • IR Sensor

    Be careful, reinstalling the logic board, some of these cables stand under the card and you have to remove the card again to get them… :((

    pascal ESNAULT - Réponse

  23. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 23, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the microphone cable connector toward the top edge of the iMac to disconnect it from the logic board.

  24. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 24, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the SD board cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    When replacing it, copper points down.

    agigante - Réponse

  25. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 25, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 25, image 2 de 2
    • Disconnect the left speaker and right speaker cables by pulling their connectors toward the right side of the iMac.

  26. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 26, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 26, image 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both AirPort antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The gray antenna attaches to the socket on the left and the black antenna attaches to the socket on the right.

    Be super careful here. I spudged the sockets completely off the airport card when I was pulling apart mine.

    Cary B - Réponse

    I as well. These are delicate connectors...

    Brett Williams - Réponse

  27. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 27, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the hard drive fan by pulling its connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

  28. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 28, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the hard drive thermal sensor cable out of its socket and toward the top edge of the iMac to disconnect it from the logic board.

  29. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 29, image 1 de 1
    • Use your thumbnails on both sides of the Bluetooth/ambient light sensor/camera/left temperature connector to push it toward the top edge of the iMac and out of its socket on the logic board.

  30. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 30, image 1 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 30, image 2 de 3 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 30, image 3 de 3
    • Pull the CPU fan/ambient temperature sensor connector toward the bottom left edge of the iMac and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the power button connector toward the bottom left corner of the iMac to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

  31. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 31, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the piece of tape covering the IR sensor cable.

  32. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 32, image 1 de 1
    • Use your thumbs to push the IR sensor connector out of its socket and toward the top edge of the iMac.

  33. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 33, image 1 de 1
    • Pull the IR sensor board up from behind the front face of the outer case.

    • Remove the IR sensor and set it aside.

  34. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 34, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following seven screws:

    • Two 7 mm T10 torx screws

    • One 30 mm T10 Torx screw

    • Two 25 mm T10 Torx screws

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws

    Don't forget the red one in the top corner!

    Rob Dale - Réponse

  35. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 35, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 35, image 2 de 2
    • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

    • Remove the following four screws:

    • One 9.3 mm T10 coarse-threaded screw

    • One 25 mm T10 coarse-threaded screw

    • Two 22 mm fine-threaded screws

    • Pull the upper right and lower left corners of the power supply away from the rear case to dislodge the mounting posts attached to the power supply's corners.

    Make sure the system has been powered off for a while. The capacitors on the power supply can still hold a charge for roughly 15 mins and will electrocute you if not handled properly

    Dennis M - Réponse

    No need to do this if you’re just going to pull out the logic board for GPU replacement.

    František Žiačik - Réponse

    it's possible to change the HDD fan without completely removing either the main board or the power supply. After removing the 4 screws on the PS board, I only had to pull it outward a few mm to remove the plastic wall on the HDD side, which is the part which holds the heat sink (attached to the main board) in place, Once the wires were unplugged from the main board's edges, and the IR board detached from the case front, I was able (with some delicate wiggling) to tilt the board out at the top enough (without unplugging anything from the back side of the board!) to remove the fan. The only tricky bit was getting that one fan screw out, which I managed with a T10 bit fastened to a 1/4" open-end wrench with some masking tape. A little awkward, but it saved a whole lot of disassembly. Somebody probably makes a skinny little ratchet that takes 1/4 hex bits directly, which would have made it easy.

    Dan Gellert - Réponse

  36. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 36, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 36, image 2 de 2
    • Carefully lift the power supply out of the outer case and rotate it to expose the cable lock as shown, minding the DC-out and AC-in cables still attaching it to the iMac.

    • Disconnect the DC-out cable by depressing the locking mechanism on the connector while you pull the connector away from its socket on the power supply.

    • Once the locking mechanism has cleared the socket, pull the DC-in connector away from the power supply.

  37. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 37, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the AC-In cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket.

    • Remove the power supply from the outer case.

  38. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 38, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the plastic wall that is installed directly to the right of the LED driver board.

  39. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 39, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the plastic pressure wall installed next to the hard drive.

    Last step needed. Once board is free and you can see the battery hidden in the back, very easy to remove. Great guide!

    chris - Réponse

  40. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 40, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 40, image 2 de 2
    • Slightly pull the logic board away from the back of the outer case, then lift it upward to clear the lower front face of the outer case.

    Stopped here, once the logic board was free, I could just simply get to the battery

    chris - Réponse

    I noticed here that I had forgotten the top screw of step 34

    Rob Dale - Réponse

  41. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 41, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the audio port cable by pulling its connector away from the front face of the logic board.

  42. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 42, image 1 de 1
    • If present, peel off the tape securing the hard drive SATA cable to the logic board.

  43. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 43, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 43, image 2 de 2
    • Depress the locking mechanism and carefully pull the DC-In cable out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

    didn't need to do this

    chris - Réponse

    Step 44 Instruction is confusing. Why?

    Because you suddenly mention a "mini display port cable" and "a USB cable" that up until now have never been mentioned. I'm not trying to be horsey, truly I'm not, but if you mean "plug in THE mini display port cable and THE USB cable" then I can assume both of these have previously been removed, although in scrolling back over all steps before step 44, I see no mention of either. So I remain confused about this instruction. All the rest of the steps are wonderfully clear and amazing. Apple itself cannot have provided a more perfect instruction (nor would they!). Well I'll leave this comment, although in re-reading Instruction 44, I now understand that these two cables are to be plugged in on the FRAME of the iMAC, OUTSIDE, so as to make sure the logic board INSIDE ends up properly aligned when reinstalled. My initial bad. Thank you.

    James Lacey - Réponse

  44. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement: étape 44, image 1 de 1
    • Being careful not to damage the socket on the logic board, gently pull the hard drive SATA data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the logic board, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • When reinstalling the logic board, plug in a mini display port cable and a USB cable into the outer USB port before tightening the logic board screws to ensure proper alignment.

  45. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Remove HD Fan: étape 45, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the one T10 screw holding the HD Fan (circled in Red)

    • Carefully lift the HD Fan vertically from the plastic mounting pegs (circled in Green)

    • Ensure the HD Fan is lifted straight off the plastic mounting pegs to ensure they do not break

  46. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Enclosure removal: étape 46, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the two screws circled red and place them aside.

    • Remove the two screws circled blue and set them aside

    • Keep these two screws seperate because they are different sizes.

    • Remove the metal enclosure covering the hinge.

    • It may take a little wiggling and force, but try not to use excessive force.

  47. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Stand Removal: étape 47, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Stand Removal: étape 47, image 2 de 2
    • It will be VERY helpful if you have an iMac servicing wedge here. If not, have someone hold the iMac in place while you unscrew these particular screws.

    • Remove all 7 T10 Torx screws. Put them in a safe place for re-assembly.

    • The stand should come right out now. Congratulations!

    Recommend using Blue (medium strength) Loctite on these Torx screws during reinstallation. The screws originally coated.

    Brian Anderson - Réponse

  48. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Stand Hinge Removal: étape 48, image 1 de 2 iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Stand Replacement, Stand Hinge Removal: étape 48, image 2 de 2
    • If removing/replacing the stand's hinge:

    • Remove the remaining T10 screws (circled in Red)

    • Lift the hinge assembly from the case

    • The hinge assembly sets under part of the plastic divider. (As shown marked with the Red Square) Ensure the hinge is installed under the divider during installation

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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