Introduction
Tutoriel pré-requis pour retirer la carte mère.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, poussez doucement chaque côté du connecteur du câble du haut-parleur gauche pour débrancher le connecteur de sa prise.
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Si nécessaire, utilisez une pincette pour décoller délicatement la bande adhésive qui fixe le câble du haut-parleur gauche au câble d'alimentation/données SATA.
Actually i didn't get why should i unstick the tape which gum up left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. It's gonna be hard to bond the tape again cause it looses the clue ability. I can definetely claim that there is no need to touch the tape.
I too can say that there was no reason to remove the tape.
Agreed. I completed the repair without removing the tape.
phil -
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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez les quatre connecteurs d'antenne de la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.
i found it helpful to use the flat end of the spudger under the cable near the connector and gently wiggle the spudger until the cable was disconnected.
Agreed, I broke one connector. The airport seems to work anyway. But what to do to fix it? Change the airport card or try to weld it again?
I mark each cable tip with a different colored sharpie and then take a Pic. This gives me the order and the angle of orientation in order to reconnect these pesky connectors.
OK, so when did you remove the RIGHT speaker? Suddenly it is not in the photos. I s there anything besides it's plug to remove?
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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur du câble de la prise jack pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
The photo in Step 51 shows the right speaker missing, however there is no step prior for removing the right speaker.
Hence, refer to this other guide to remove the right speaker *before* Step 51.
Remplacement du haut-parleur droit de l'iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638
Its there! Step 28 & 29 is the removal, the left one doesn’t need to be removed.
Dan -
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Retirez les vis suivantes par lesquelles l'orifice d'échappement est fixé au boîtier arrière :
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Deux vis T8 6,3 mm
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Deux vis T8 4,7 mm
A T9 bit fits and grips the screws tight enough to make it easier to work with the deep 4.7mm screw.
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Retirez les quatre vis T10 7,2 mm par lesquelles la carte mère est fixée au boîtier arrière.
So a major problem for me here — my iMac (purchased 2018 ) has a solid circular fastener where the lower left T10 screw should be. So I think I’m dead in the water as far as getting the logic board off to put the new RAM in. I can’t see how people can insert the ram from behind without seeing it or being able to get two fingers to the tabs. I’m so frustrated with the design of this computer.
That’s a new one on us! We’d love to see a photo. Any chance it’s a tamper-proof sticker hiding the head? You may also be able to turn it with a set of pliers if you can get a decent grip, just be careful not to bump any board components!
It’s a tamper proof sticker. I started to peel it up, but it was just easier to press the screwdriver bit in.
as an update, these are now T8 screws
cwaldrip -
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Inclinez le haut de la carte mère en l'écartant du boîtier arrière.
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Soulevez la carte mère en la tenant bien droit et sortez-la de l'iMac.
This is the trickiest part of the whole operation. It took me a solid half hour to get the logic board out. I’m sure it would be easier a second time, because there’s not many delicate components around the USB/Internet sockets, so you can be a little more assertive with it than I felt comfortable doing.
i found the logic board kept snagging on the USB connectors poking through the exterior case. Wiggle the logic gently to extract..
Take out the two screws that hold down the right speaker, and push it up a little, before removing the logic board. It makes things a lot easier.
Also: there’s a cable on the right side of the logic board that isn’t called out. Nor are the two HDD cables that plug into the underside of the logic board.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez à nouveau les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez à nouveau les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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A step is entirely missing here – removing the right speaker cable connection from the logic board and also removing the right speaker casing (all the pictures below show it already having been removed). You actually don't need to entirely remove the right speaker to get the logic board out but you will need to remove its screws and lift it slightly. And you will need to remove its plug from the motherboard but that's not hard and it looks identical to the left speaker plug/socket.
biscuit - Réponse
This does need adding to the guide if anyone from ifixit sees this!
Alan Digby -