Introduction
Suivez les étapes de ce tutoriel pour mettre à jour ou changer votre disque dur iMac 21,5" Retina 4K fin 2015. Si vous boulez upgrader votre disque, vous aurez besoin de cloner votre disque dur sur le nouveau avant de réaliser cette amélioration, pour conserver vos fichiers et votre système d'exploitation.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Si vous utilisez la cale de maintien en carton iFixit, suivez ces instructions d'assemblage pour l'assembler.
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Avant de commencer votre réparation iMac : Débranchez l'ordinateur et appuyez sur le bouton de marche pendant dix secondes, afin de décharger les condensateurs de l'alimentation.
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En partant de la gauche de l'écran, près du bouton de marche, insérez l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le boîtier arrière.
Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.
As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): Changer les bandes adhésives de l'iMac Intel 21,5'' EMC 2544
This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.
You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).
Merci pour ce conseil
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Servez-vous de l'outil comme d'une roulette à pizza, en suivant le pourtour de l'iMac, de manière à effectuer une découpe au centre de la mousse adhésive.
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Poussez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté gauche de l'écran.
If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.
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Continuez tout au long du bord supérieur de l'écran.
In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?
Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!
P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.
P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.
And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.
If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:
Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.
Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.
Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.
omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...
now fan runs like crazy...
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Pour finir, poussez l'outil le long du côté droit de l'écran, vers le bas.
Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.
Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.
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En partant de l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac, insérez une carte en plastique entre l'écran et le châssis.
this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………
I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.
I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.
@ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.
Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics
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Tournez doucement la carte sur le côté pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le châssis.
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Déplacez la carte lentement en veillant à ne pas exercer une pression excessive sur la vitre de l'écran. Un espace d'environ 0,6 cm est suffisant.
This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.
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Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran, pour découper le reste de mousse adhésive dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac.
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Tenez l'écran d'une main tout en débranchant de l'autre la nappe d'alimentation de l'écran.
Can this cable be replaced? I am worried mine is damaged. I have no display after the screen fell and stressed the display flex cables following an SSD upgrade.
This step should be done with extreme caution and care, as this step 19 is not described in great detail (sorry, author).
The first (most outward) cable will slide out by gently pulling it by its tabs. The second (inner) cable is more tricky, as the locking lever must be moved backward first, before gently pulling backward on the cable connector. The angled tweezers are useful here, to help lift that locking lever, because fingers are too big for this.
I found the best way to unplug this display power cable was to use my right hand, and the fingernails of my index finger and thumb to grab the ends of the tabs on either side of the connector, squeeze, and pull the connector out gently.
i think the cable nearest the case edge is held in by friction and can be gently pulled, maybe with fingernails or a spudger. The next cable is held by a wire lever clip as described above it unlocks so the cable can be removed. These cables are also fiddly to re-insert, I didn't get one of them home and had no display after power-up, so at the end, don't re-seal the screen until tested.
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Tout en continuant à tenir l'écran d'une main, retournez le support métallique qui fixe la nappe de données de l'écran.
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Retirez avec précaution la nappe de données de l'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Cannot seem to find a replacement cable for this, as I suspect mine is damaged. Can’t even find a part number. Anyone know what it might be?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TTL...
That's the part I ordered for mine and it seems to work ok. I did make a point of contacting the seller and advising them of my requirement and they ensured I got the right part and it matches the description of the link. Bear in mind I bear no responsibility if yours does not work since I am just sharing what I did and what I ordered. Thanks.
I also need that cable.
It's a little difficult to tell... but looking at the connection to the logic board on the video data cable, are the pins faced up or down?
On the display, same question since it appears you have to "twist" the cable during the reconnection step.
For this particular cable, take a good look before pulling on anything. Plug is locked on its socket with a bracket. You can lift this bracket by holding the small, flat black plastic handle that is attached to it. If you're struggling to grab it, use the end of the pizza roller handle to lift it, or the tweezers. Cable then comes off by pulling parallel to the main board.
How can I tell if either of this cable is bad? My iMac display won't turn on after reconnecting it. I'm using an external display and everything is working except for the iMac display. If I go to settings - display the built-in display is recognize. But again nothing shows up in the screen - not even the apple logo when turning it on.
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Soulevez l'écran presque à la verticale.
The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.
Yes, use the tabs as Andrew indicates. Super easy.
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Soulevez l'écran hors du châssis et retirez-le de l'iMac.
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Il peut s'avérer nécessaire de l'élever lentement d'un côté pour le décoller de l'adhésif restant.
The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.
Andrew, FTW! This worked perfectly
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Retirez les vis Torx T10 suivantes, qui fixent les supports du disque dur à l'iMac :
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Deux vis de 21 mm
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Une vis de 9 mm
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Une vis de 27 mm
At step 26, when reassembling, it's super easy to over-tighten the 9mm screw and strip the brass ferrule out of its hole in the plastic bracket (%#*@).
Mine has 4 different length screws, the two red colored 21mm screws in this guide are actually two differ lengths
buongiorno, l'imac del 2019, non monta alcuna ssd, ma monta una m2 direttamente sulla scheda madre!
pertanto nella guida andrebbe aggiunto il cavo sata con sensore temperatura da aggiungere sulla scheda madre, per poter collegare un nuovo hd ssd altrimenti rimarrete come me bloccati con un imac aperto e non assemblato, in attesa di ricevere il cavo acquistato su internet da amazon o terze parti.
vi consiglio inoltre di aggiungere una foto reale del ò'imac 2019 nella guida in cui manca l'ssd, renderà subito la problematica che avranno in molti!
Hi, mine doesn’t HAVE an HD/SSD to remove, the bay is empty (yes it was fully working yesterday. So what do we do ? I see someone else with the sane issue above….
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Soulevez le disque dur depuis le bord le plus proche de sa carte mère et retirez-le délicatement de son emplacement.
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Utilisez une spatule pour déconnecter le câble SATA en l'éloignant délicatement du disque dur.
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Retirez le disque dur de votre iMac.
Not only is it useful to loosen up the speaker next to the SATA connector I found it helpful to use a pen to mark the exact location of the edges of the SATA connector on top of the new drive, so I could guide the connector in place. It also helps to put the bumpers in after you get this SATA connector in place.
Waiting to put the bumpers on until after the SATA cable is attached was a must! Also loosing the speaker and moving over a couple centimeters was a huge help. Thanks
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Retirez la protection en caoutchouc d'un côté du disque dur.
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Répétez l'opération de l'autre côté.
reconnecting the new drive can be a little tricky as the sata connector in the Mac is hard to align. I found that it helps to move the end of the bumpers out of the way, then push them back into position once the drive is connected.
Thank you for the tip!
Can I install a Samsung 850 EVO 500GB to replace my 1TB 5400rpm disk? and is a seperate thermal sensor/cable needed to prohibit the fan to run at 100% all the time?
Yes you can install ANY SATA SSD.
And no … there is no thermal sensor on the drive. You don’t need them on these models.
Can I install a Seagate FireCuda 2TB to replace my 1TB 5400rpm disk? and is a seperate thermal sensor/cable needed to prohibit the fan to run at 100% all the time?
Did you ever find out if you could replace your 500 GB with that Firecuda? I’m looking at doing that. I need more storage for my 500 GB photos library and don’t want to pay so a ton for the SSD that is big enough.
The SSD was a HUGE performance boost over the 5400rpm drive my iMac came with. If you’re pulling your hair out because Lightroom has become excruciatingly slow, upgrade your hard drive to SSD. You will not be disappointed.
The kit has everything you need. Follow these instructions carefully and you’ll be fine.
Huge improvement! It’s like a new machine. Highly recommended upgrade.
Take care with the adhesive strips, and don’t forget to set new SSD as the boot disk (System Preferences, Startup Disk) after you’ve tested its bootable.
I previously had a fusion drive and installed a SSD. Will there be any issues with the ssd portion of the fusion drive? I still see it there in disc utility. Also, I’m showing two SSDs, along with the 32 gig one. Is that correct or did I create something that shouldn’t be there?
I have this same question. I’m showing 2 drives but 1 is grayed out on the computer screen when I click on it nothing happens.
Frank -
A fusion drive combines two physical disks via software to act as one. It it something that has to be done manually and expressly. When you first got the computer, your fusion drive combined disks A (SSD) and B (HDD). If you replaced B, then you probably have an unused 32 GB blade SSD along with your new SSD. It possible to create another Fusion drive, but you’d have to start from zero, because creating a fusion drive erases the individual disks completely.
also, not 100%, but I tried for several hours the other day and I’ve come to the conclusion that my version of Big Sur (11.1) doesn’t support Fusion Drives. Correct me if I’m wrong. Or maybe it’s because I’m running Big Sur on an unsupported iMac.
David -
The hardest part was to plug the connector into the new SSD. I loose the two screws of the adjacent (left) speaker and move it just enough to have sufficient space to introduce my fingers to push the conector into the SSD. Left the replace of the rubber bumpers after reconnect the SSD, is easy to handle without it.
I bought Samsung QVO 1TB SSD and now the fan is blasting fast and loud. So if these don’t use the thermal cables then what seems to be triggering the high temp? Obviously it’s the hard drive but could it be that the drive was cloned? I’m kinda stumped, I know I can control with software but some of you are saying it should run normal after install. Thanks for the info.
Is there a PCIe slot for an SSD instead of the SATA 3.0 2.5”?
thank you,
Not unless your iMac shipped with a Fusion drive or SSD.
The step-by-step guide was awesome and easy to follow. As others have commented, getting the SATA connector onto the SSD is tricky but not impossible. Just pull back the rubber bumpers long enough to reach the connector, then flip them back into place before seating the drive. One comment for my machine (late 2015 21.5”): There is no mic hole for my model, so while I was a little confused at the instructions on reinstalling the adhesive, the drive replacement went like a dream. And I saved myself the $120 labor the local Mac shop wanted to charge me.
Hat alles prima funktioniert. Leider läuft der Lüfter jetzt auf 100% und kernel_task Prozess ist bei über 300%. Was habe ich falsch gemacht. Diagnose meldet jetzt einen SMC Fehler und CPU-Proximity liefert keinen Wert.
Kann jemand helfen?
schau doch mal hier https://apple.stackexchange.com/question...
This is the least accurately described step (sorry, author). While removal is easy, inserting the new drive in its place is a bit tricky. The key here, is to insert the new drive with its rubber bumpers back in its space, so that it is fully seated down in its place *before* the connector can be re-attached. Once it is seated in place, use the flat end of the spudger to gently manoeuver the connector back into place until it is firmly connected to the drive.
Reassembling the iMac is not simply following these instructions in reverse order (sorry, author).
Before embarking on the home stretch, it is very important to carefully study the guide about the Adhesive Strips Replacement (iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Adhesive Strips Replacement - iFixit Repair Guide), as this a tedious and time consuming process. Perfect alignment of those adhesive strips takes some concentration, because you will want to have your display panel back nice and tight and fully aligned with the case. Once all strips are in place, the 2 display connectors need to be gently reattached to the motherboard, before closing up the panel. I took my sweet time for that step, and thankfully have a perfectly aligned display panel back in place looking no different from the factory fit.
Here’s the rest of the information you need.
There needs to be more added to cover the first part of re-assembly. To connect up my SSD, I needed to remove screws that held in place the black plastic to the left of the drive bay. This was only way to get the added space needed to connect the SSD to the drive cable. I also connected the SSD first, then attached the rubber bumpers, simply to give me more room to maneuver the drive next to the connector. All in all, yes, a person well familiar with tearing down iMacs could do it in an hour or so. But frankly, the design of this iMac is a total horror show when it comes to repair or replacement of parts, especially given its reliance on glue and adhesives. Gee, just like other Apple products.
Ben, after you replaced the HDD with SSD, did you have any fan issues on the A1418 model iMac? Thinking of doing this but I’ve been reading for hours and seeing mixed reports about thermal sensors.
This iFixit tool (iFixit Opening Tool) will be your best friend when it's time to install your new 2.5" hard drive. Simply hook the tool to the back top corner of the iMac SATA adapter, connect your hard drive loosely to the SATA ports and use the tool to pull the SATA adapter forward into the hard drive.
After replacing the hard drive. All went well BUT -now my mic does not work. It's the single hole on the bottom. Any ideas anybody?
Did you notice step 14 in the guide to replacing the adhesive strips?
Please update the end of this guide, pointing the customer to the guide for replacing the display adhesive strips. You provide a single kit for this procedure, and the customer has to figure out that they must follow two independent guides, in order to successfully complete the installation.
Ich habe den unteren Klebestreifen gar nicht gelöst! --> Monitor (Glasscheibe) nach vorne auf ein dickes Kissen gelegt - so dass das Glas nur ca. 80° Winkel nach vorne zu liegen kommt und dann habe ich die Festplatte getauscht! So konnte ich die untere Klebeleiste wieder verwenden und hatte genügend Platz um die senkrechten und oberen Leisten zu verkleben! ⏎
Tip: Klebestreifen zuerst auf dem Alugehäuse befestigen...... -
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
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31 commentaires
Hi, Evan, thanks a lot for the guide, could you let us know where can we find the adhesive for the screen to put it back together?
The replacement adhesive is linked in the intro area at the top of this guide. ;)
What a GREAT set of instructions. I’m thinking about replacing the original hard drive on my iMac (late 2015) with an SSD drive.
This gives me a whole lot more confidence to do it myself.
Thanx!
Hi,
Thanks for that guide!
I have a question for you though… can we assume each motherboard from this 2015 Retina model will have a blade SSD connector or some may not?
I would like to upgrade my iMac with an SSD but I would prefer the blade SSD as having a better throughput than the hard drive style SSDs.
Thanks!
Hi,
Does anybody know, are there known issues with cooling/fans, or is there need for thermal inline sensor when putting a 2tb Seagate FireCuda Hybrid SSHD. I have ordered a 2TB FireCuda 2.5 for my iMac and all relevant replacing tools. Will I run into any problems or is it just a straight swap?
Thank you
iMac 4K 21.5 2015 >> Seagate FireCuda 2TB >>Thermal Sensor >> iMac 4K 21.5 2015 >> Seagate FireCuda 2TB >>Thermal Sensor
Does the screen still “snap” back into place on the iMac without any adhesive? I just bought an SSD and I’m about to clone my machine, but if I’m not able to put the screen back on all after upgrading the hard drive then I’ll have to hold off on this project until later.
Does the screen “snap” back into place at all without the adhesive, or is the adhesive necessary to keep the screen in place? Thanks
you need to apply new glue. dont use double sided sticky tape - even the strongest one isnt able to keep screen in place. But the problems I run into are as follow… fan is weirdly loud i guess its related to lack of the temperature sensor on a new SSD - this can be easily fixed with little app to control the speed of it… but the main issue is that computer got slower than before… I tried the trick with enabling TRIM in SATA settings.. still same… its i5, 8GB RAM and brand new SSD - and its slower than with old HDD… kind of running out of ideas here… anyone can help ?
If I replace the standard HD with SSD Do I need a new thermal sensor? It the HD size 2,5?
The iMac opening tool made all the difference for me. After going around the case a few times the screen came out very easily. Ignore people who say this model is too difficult to repair, it’s easy with the right tools.
I installed an SSD and the computer is like new. Massive performance improvement over the original slow HDD.
Don’t hesitate to do this upgrade.
Is this process exactly the same to replace a fusion drive instead of a standard hdd?
Rien de plus facile avec un tel détail et des photos aussi précises.
Quelques difficultés à ôter les nappes reliées à l’écran puis plus tard pour rebrancher le SSD à la place du HDD original (j’ai d’abord rebranché le SSD puis remis les protections en caoutchouc de chaque côté et non l’inverse comme indiqué).
bref, merci !!
Very good guide and people who submitted comments were helpful as well. Nice job.
The kit worked great. Replacing my HDD with a SSD made my 2015 iMac as fast as my 2019 model.
One tip that may help you: Getting the SSD connected is tricky. I took a business card and folded it several times, wedging it behind the SATA connector. I was able to easily push the drive in and make a solid connection. Then, using the tweezers from the kit, I pulled the business card out and finished assembly as instructed.
Thank for the guide. Quite an easy job. Note that the fan problem is not there for the iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display.
Installed a Samsung 860 QVO. Seems this is a problem for iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2805 only.
This upgrade is a must. Went from super slow machine to very fast.
Hi. Does the same procedure apply to iMac 21.5 2019 version?
Thank you.
that was a great guide got it done well. Only is missing some trick to reconnect theHD or SSD in my case. I had to struggle quite a bit to align the plug to the SSD. It needs some device that goes behind the plug to push it in. Otherwise, the SSD cannot go forward enough to engage the plug.
Thanks a lot for your help.
I bought my 2015 4K 21.5” iMac with the256 GB PCIe SSD, and now I’m hoping to add a SATA drive to the vacant bay. What parts do I need to make this happen? Are any already there in the SSD-only versions?
I used to own a PR business with ONLY Macs. I fixit has helped me keep mbps and iMacs in top condition with upgrades a that extend the life of expensive computers. Your tools and guides are so easy to follow and essential for taking on important upgrades.
Thanks to all and every person who works for and with iFixIt!
Am I right in thinking that this imac doesn’t have the same requirement for the sata thermal sensor?
that is correct
Chuck -
Hello all,
I have a small question on the conation of hard drive required in the introduction. It is required "clone of the HDD before switching the hard disk". Nevertheless, the associated guide (Comment cloner un disque existant sur un nouveau disque) recommend to create a bootable USB external drive. I understand that this bootable external drive should be the new drive I want to install. In this case, the recovery partition will be the bootable part? Thanks in advance for your clarification!
Have a nice day.
Julien
I just opened my late 2015 21.5” iMac as it crashed last week, but there is NO hard drive in the HD bay ! I can find absolutely no record of an iMac from this year with a soldered SSD, so what’s going on ?? How do I fix it ? The disk is unreadable and I don’t want to sell the computer for parts if it’s got my old data on it.
The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.
roberttrevellyan - Réponse
Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?
Dan - Réponse
Here are a couple tips from me:
1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.
2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.
jerrid_foiles - Réponse
Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!
Sam Fung - Réponse
“All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.
Chris Hughes - Réponse
There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.
Phil Tesone - Réponse
I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.
Ernst - Réponse
While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.
Ernst - Réponse
Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.
Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.
Where are the sensitive parts?
Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.
Froggy Manny - Réponse