Desserrez l'unique vis Phillips au centre de la trappe d'accès.
  • Desserrez l'unique vis Phillips au centre de la trappe d'accès.

  • Cette vis est captive dans la trappe d'accès.

  • Retirez la trappe d'accès de votre iMac.

PH2 head necessary to remove screw.

airshack - Réponse

La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre.
  • La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre.

  • Collez une ventouse sur un angle de la vitre et une autre ventouse sur l'angle opposé.

  • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

  • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux tel que le Windex.

Save $15 dollars and use a plunger. Works perfectly.

Michael Ybarra - Réponse

Even better and more elegant: go to a household shop and buy two transparent plastic bathroom baskets with two suction cups each. I found them in Xenos in the Netherlands (maybe also in Germany).

freed - Réponse

Perhaps not so elegant but equally effective without any adverse effects to either... try a vacuum cleaner.

Andrew Dobson - Réponse

  • Soulevez délicatement la vitre de l'iMac.

  • Plusieurs broches de positionnement sont disposées sur le pourtour de la vitre. Pour éviter de les arracher, veillez à soulever la vitre bien droit lors de la dépose.

  • Nettoyez soigneusement l'écran LCD et la face intérieure de la vitre avant le remontage, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

The glass panel is somewhat thin and should come away quite easily without much force so be gentle.

adamngordon - Réponse

Just an FYI - my glass panel did not line up perfectly when reinstalled. Off by just 1mm. May take another attempt at it later, but does not interfere with the iSight camera. Only someone with an eagle-eye (like me) will notice it's not perfect.

ajpfl - Réponse

To reinstall the glass, I lined up the bottom edge first, then pivoted the top in. The magnets pulled it quickly into place.

Magnus Dalen - Réponse

I didn't want to use such small suction cups.. so I got suction bathroom handles from Home Depot. Very sturdy and to me, safer choice.

Gail - Réponse

  • Retirez les 12 vis suivantes par lesquelles le cadre avant est fixé au boîtier arrière :

  • Huit vis Torx T8 13 mm.

  • A la place, il peut y avoir six vis Torx T8 de 13 mm et deux de 25 mm.

  • Quatre vis Torx T8 25 mm.

  • A la place, il peut y avoir deux vis Torx T8 de 25 mm (à l'extérieur) et deux de 35 mm (à l'intérieur).

I only had two 25 mm T8 Torx on my model. (The two inner orange circles as shown in the diagram.)

stevejansen - Réponse

I don't know if this is different but i am in the process of disassembling a 24' imac emc: 2134. i have only: (2) 25 mm T8 screws the inner two on the bottom of the screen. I have (4) 13 mm t8 screws the outer most holes on the bottom and the 2 holes on the right side of the monitor above the drive entrance and the remaining holes are (6) 11 mm t8 screws

ccarter314 - Réponse

I have the same screws as ccarter on a 2211 except on the bottom row there are only 4 screws total, the longer ones go in the middle two.

maccentric -

The Torx set I bought from ifixIt is well worth the money. My screw heads in this step were T9 not T8. THe T8 bit was too sloppy in the screwhead and there was a risk of rounding the slots. Having the option to go a size-up was perfect.

Troy - Réponse

My 2211 has a different screw configuration.

2 - 32mm long screws towards the middle of the bottom edge

4 - 18mm long screws (2 at the corners of the bottom edge and 2 along the right edge)

6 - 13mm screws along top and left edges

christian - Réponse

Mine is the same — two very long, four medium, and six short. Also my T9 worked better than my T8 which was a bit loose.

johann beda -

I have the same screws as Christian. The key is to make sure all screws are flush to the surface, so that the glass can be held up by the magnets.

Kelvin Lau - Réponse

On mine, for the red circles, I had the six 13mm Torx plus two 25mm Torx. It's not indicated in the picture here, but the 25mm Torx went on either side of the optical drive.

JD Fox Micro - Réponse

I marked next to each hole with a pencil "S, M or L" to indicate which length screw goes where. No guess work on reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Réponse

  • Le cadre avant est toujours relié à l'iMac par le câble du microphone.

  • Soulevez avec précaution le bord supérieur du cadre avant hors du boîtier arrière. Vous pouvez, pour faciliter l'opération, appuyer très délicatement sur les angles de l'écran.

  • Après avoir libéré le bord supérieur du cadre avant, faites pivoter ce dernier vers le support et sortez-le du boîtier arrière.

  • Lors du remontage du cadre avant, commencez par placer le bord inférieur au niveau du boitier arrière, puis abaissez le bord supérieur dans l'iMac.

The microphone cable must be disconnected BEFORE rotating the bezel towards the stand.

Also, the bezel covers the sides of the case, not just the front. This isn't obvious from the pictures.

wallace - Réponse

Looking at the meaning of the LEDS

i've got 3 LEDS on but i don't get a chime or the screen.

i am going to check the inverter voltages but can only find info for the 20" macs iMac Intel 20" EMC 2210 Power Supply Output Voltage Test

does anyone know where i can get info for the 24"

samraby - Réponse

i have the same thing, 3 LEDs on but no chime and no screen.

what is the fix? and problem?

Bill -

I'm in the same position. 3 LED's, No chime, no life in the screen, Optical drive starts up but no other signs of life i.e.:fans also don't start up.....

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!

Dominik - Réponse

  • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du microphone, en retirant la bande adhésive si nécessaire.

  • Pour installer correctement le cadre avant, enfoncez le câble du microphone et le connecteur dans l'espace vide à côté du support vidéo.

I didn't disconect the cable. I was working on a large table that allowed me to carefully flip the bezel upside down and rest it that way with the cable connected through the entire process.

fulker - Réponse

I also skipped disconnecting the microphone cable. I have a large table and I stacked some books next to the iMac. There was plenty of cable for the bezel to fold nicely over the top of the iMac.

mikkorongas - Réponse

I needed to move the bezel away, so disconnected the cable. On reassembly found that the pins had pulled out of the plastic housing. Need to know orientation of the 3 wires in the housing.

prreitz - Réponse

I used the floor instead of a table and left the cable connected.

Frank Carrano - Réponse

  • Débranchez le connecteur du capteur de température LCD de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.

  • Si nécessaire, libérez le câble du capteur de température LCD qui passe derrière la carte mère.

The temp sensor on my EMC2134 is located underneath the LCD and the cable is not very long. I propped up the LCD to facilitate removal.

Pierre Scerri - Réponse

I got an error for the LCD thermal sensor(4sns/1/40000000: TLOP-130.000), and now the fan runs full tilt all the time! I guess I may have damaged the cable...

morgandan - Réponse

there are two connections together; picture does not make that clear or which one to remove.

jay - Réponse

You have to be extremely careful when pulling out the LCD Temp connection as it doesn't want to come easy. I almost pulled the entire connection off the logic board using too much force. I therefore, used a pair of hemostats to grab the male end (the very top of the connector) and used a small screwdriver to hold the base of the connection in-place (female end attached to the logic board) in order to pull the connector apart.

tpolak - Réponse

There apparently is a variant of the EMC2134, like Pierre Scerri said. It has its LCD temp sensor underneath the LCD; the thin wires are about 5 in / 13 cm long and taped to the back of the LCD, and only about 2 in free, so lift the LCD gently.

There is a connector on the place where the LCD temp connector is on the iFixit photo, but in this variant it is marked 'CPU FAN' and there is no reason to disconnect it.

The logic boards in my computer are black, not blue.

goosveen - Réponse

  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 5,3 mm par lesquelles le câble de données de l'écran est fixé à la carte mère.

When they assembled my imac, they forgot to put the two torx screws in. Saved me about 10 seconds. The cable was quite secure and easily popped on and off.

ljheppner - Réponse

I used surgical tweezers to put place these two tiny screws back in without dropping them into the computer.

Magnus Dalen - Réponse

In my situation, the T6 (fixit's version) got the screw stripped. I'm eyeing the screws with suspicions. It's way too tight than necessary that I have difficulty to unscrew it. Will add comment if I ever get successful to get it out somehow.

xa0s - Réponse

Okay. It was extremely difficult. I had to use precision screw (1.4 m/m). It worked on one of the screw. The other one... I was forced to use a hexagon bit at 1.5 size to a success with extreme precision and careful maneuver. I just hope nobody else experiences this as much as I have. Good luck.

xa0s - Réponse

  • Débranchez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en tirant la languette en plastique vers vous et vers l'extérieur de l'iMac.

For my 2134 iMac, I ended up just (carefully) putting my fingers on the edges of the little board and (gently) pulling up. Did the trick for me (I couldn't get anything to happen when I pulled up on the plastic tab, which I did also have trouble finding purchase on)

Emmett Framson - Réponse

Same for me :just pull upwards with your nails on both edges.

thierry28722 - Réponse

  • Couchez l'iMac sur une table avant de retirer l'écran LCD pour éviter de le faire tomber.

  • Retirez les huit vis Torx T8 12 mm par lesquelles l'ensemble écran est fixé au boîtier arrière.

  • Soulevez le côté gauche de l'écran et faites pivoter ce dernier vers la droite de l'iMac.

  • Ne soulevez pas l'intégralité de l'écran LCD, car il est toujours relié aux pièces internes par des connecteurs.

In the photo it appears you're lifting it from its right edge. Sue

(sue.w.clark@gmail.com)

suewclark - Réponse

When you fit the LCD back be aware that the microphone cable may be hidden between it and the case and make sure it's free. I had to back track a few stages when I couldn't find it.

suewclark - Réponse

My T9 bit fits better than my T8 bit.

johann beda - Réponse

  • Pendant que l'écran LCD est soulevé, débranchez le câble LCD en tirant vers le bas.

  • Le câble LCD est branché au-dessous de la carte d'alimentation. Faites attention lors des manipulations : si vous touchez un condensateur, vous pouvez recevoir une décharge électrique.

  • Le remplacement de ce câble est l'étape la plus difficile de la réparation. Commencez par connecter le câble puis vissez la carte mère. Notez que le filetage des deux vis qui maintiennent la carte près du disque dur est plus fin que celui des deux autres.

I was unable to disconnect the LCD cable, possibly due to fear of breaking the connector. I was able to swap drives with it connected. The iMac was placed on its rear cover on a large table, leaving plenty of workspace to rotate the LCD panel to the left side while still connected. The screen will lay at an angle on the case edge. I verified the LCD cable was clear of the case endue and not pinched.

This also avoids going near high power capacitors with your fingers.

stevejansen - Réponse

I found it easier to disconnect the LCD cable at the LCD end after lifting the black tape.

Pierre Scerri - Réponse

Fully agree. Easiest is to remove cable from LCD in stead of trying to pull it off the board

Rik Veldhuizen -

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR -

I could not get the LCD power cable disconnected from the board - it is on really hard and there is no way to leverage it off without breaking something. My solution was to leave the screen attached and rotate it away from the work area/computer (granted you need a work surface that is large enough and a soft surface to place the screen on). If you try this method, be careful that you keep clear of the screen during the remaining steps - should not be hard.

It seemed that if I ever got the connection unplugged, there would be no way to get it back under and re-attached properly.

This is probably the toughest step of the entire process that needs a workaround.

ljheppner - Réponse

On re-assembly, Have something ready to rig the display! reconnecting the lcd cable is the most difficult step in the whole procedure

bootsch - Réponse

I agree with the previous poster, this is indeed the most challenging part. I ended up removing the screws for the IC board that this connector connects to. This allowed me to pull the board up an extra inch and plug in properly. 4 screws, 120 seconds, done.

orders651 - Réponse

As said previously, reconnecting the data cable is really difficult and I managed to bend a pin. Thanks to good support from ifixit staff I managed to bend it back - not sure how as it's so small. Unscrewing the IC board is a good idea. If I ever had to do this again I would avoid disconnecting this cable and just move it out of the way, or disconnect it at the other end as previously suggested.

suewclark - Réponse

LIke others mentioned, this was the most difficult step because of the awkward angle. Working alone I managed to get it off but found it much harder to line it up properly for reattachment. What I ended up doing was getting someone to hold the the LCD (resting on the left side, perpendicular to the iMac which was laying down) and I removed the 4 screws that hold the power supply in place. Removing those screws allowed me to lift the power supply a couple inches which made it so much easier to reattach. I wish I had done that when I was trying to remove the cable during disassembly. Good luck!

alexflood - Réponse

This was near impossible to remove as there is no room to grip the connector and no easy way to wedge something in there to help remove it. I felt like giving up but the hard drive removal and swap was so easy you just need to get someone to hold the screen for 10 minutes. Don't try removing the cable ... you most likely will get frustrated unnecessarily.

Troy - Réponse

I did not disconnect the LCD power cable as others recommended. I simply rotated the LCD to the side, rested on table. This worked really well for me and did not have to be concerned about reattaching this complex connector.

ajpfl - Réponse

I agree with others. Just lift display and lean against a prop, perpendicular to table. No need to disconnect, which is error prone.

dkulp - Réponse

Les commentaires sont tous en anglais à cette étape, et j'aurai dû faire l'effort de les lire avant de perdre 1h à cause de ce connecteur. Effectivement, il n'est pas nécessaire de débrancher le connecteur de l'écran, car c'est une vrai galère à remettre sans risque de le casser. On peut donc laisser l'écran branché, à la verticale, soigneusement incliné sur un mur, l'imac toujours posé sur le bureau. J'espère que ce message sera utile, car j'aurai bien aimé qu'on me le dise avant !

Nicolecameleon - Réponse

+1 for removing the LCD cable from the screen side, not the mac side.

Not removing it, depending on the lenght of the cable which doesn't seem to be fixed, might not be an option for everybody.

Michael Sacchi - Réponse

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR - Réponse

This is really a good way to break the cable! Avoid the stress easily by removing the four screws (T-9) holding the video board down, then lift the edge near the cable before removing. Also, the cable is easily reattached to the board with these four screws removed. Reattaching without doing so is time consuming and quite difficult. This approach is easier than removing the cable from the LCD.

airshack - Réponse

Reconnecting the LCD Connector was the only challenging part of this procedure. I must have bent the pins on the LCD connector when taking it off so was unable to reattach. I ended up taking off a bracket that was adjacent to the LCD connector as well as the other end of the cable....O I disconnected these 2 pieces and was able to examine the other end of the LCD connector I was able to bend the pins back into place and the connector snapped back into place. The display works and the hard drive works as well. Thanks iFixIt!

csimmons20 - Réponse

I wish I had read your comments about not disconnecting the LCD. It was really hard disconnecting and connecting it back was !@#$. I managed to twist some of the pins so in the end I had to unscrew the board, twist the pins back and plug the cable. When I restarted, I really thought that it was never going to work. So a down point for not pointing to comments at step #11. Otherwise great tutorial.

Alain Bartolo - Réponse

Too difficult to re-connect afterwards. Accidentally, one pin was bended when re-plugged. I ended up unscrewed the power board, and fixed the pin. Re-connect and OK.

Nick Lam - Réponse

I found a far easier way. Just gently turn the screen 90° to one side and don't disconnect the cable! If all you are doing is replacing the HD, there's plenty of room without disconnecting the cable. At least on my machine the cable is flexible and I didn't have any problem making room. Way, way easier.

baslking - Réponse

Thanks for the suggestion to remove the IC board. This was indeed the easiest for me, after spending 15 minutes trying to reconnect the cable.

Sccoaire - Réponse

I didn't disconnect the LCD cable. I stacked some books on the side and put a blanket on them. I was then able to fold the screen next to the computer LCD still connected. Should some iMacs have a shorter cable this may not be an option to everyone. Thanks for good tips everyone.

mikkorongas - Réponse

I also did not remove LCD cable. Just rotated the LCD away and propped it by the edges with the plastic inserts from the box my new drive came in. Plenty of room to get to the HDD.

EBS - Réponse

No need to remove the LCD panel.

I agree this is the toughest step in the process — and the most unnecessary. I was able to rotate the panel out of the way without disconnecting it, placing a cloth between the chassis and the panel now leaning against it to prevent any inadvertent damage.

Tim Murtaugh - Réponse

As others have stated, disconnecting the inverter cable from the power supply first is NOT the way to go. I ended up damaging the cable trying to get it out before I went to disconnect it from the LCD panel end instead. Much easier to do and much less prone to damaging the cable or it's insertion socket.

The guide needs to be updated and the suggestion to pull the inverter cable downward from the power supply removed. It is not a good idea and will cost you at least a few days and $10 to replace the cable should something go wrong. Please update this guide.

multimediavt - Réponse

Get the male part out of the female fitting is a standard problem with boards. There are pulling/clamping devices you can get at electronics stores to pull the fitting out. They are like fuse pullers many car fuse boxes are equipped with. IFixit should sell them with the kit. I did it all without any problems, formatted the drive and then installed the operating system and defeated Apple who wouldn't even consider replacing the drive in my "obsolete" machine which my wife now uses instead of a crappy Dell PC.

peterhaggstrom - Réponse

If you are just changing the HDD, instead of removing the cable at the left, simply pivot the LCD 90 degrees counter-clockwise and gently set it back down. This allows one to access the HDD to swap.

Eriamjh 1138 - Réponse

I completely agree, it is way easier to remove the LCD cable from the LCD panel itself

Sve Jo - Réponse

  • Continuez de soulever l'écran LCD par le côté droit.

  • Retirez l'écran LCD.

Much simpler to remove the LCD cable at the LCD insertion site, rather than trying to remove it as suggested in the manual. Reinsertion is also less traumatic.

Eric Shaffmaster - Réponse

  • Si nécessaire, décollez les bouts de bande adhésive qui maintiennent les câbles du capteur thermique du lecteur optique/disque dur dans votre iMac.

  • Débranchez le connecteur du capteur thermique du lecteur optique de la carte mère en tirant son connecteur vers le haut de l'iMac.

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  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 7 mm à filetage fin par lesquelles le lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier arrière.

Mine were T8 Torx

Frank Carrano - Réponse

  • Soulevez l'extrémité libre du lecteur optique légèrement hors du boîtier arrière.

  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 3,5 mm par laquelle le connecteur du lecteur optique est fixé au lecteur.

My EMC 2134 had no torx screws on the ODD. The SATA connector plugs straight into the ODD.

Pierre Scerri - Réponse

  • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger entre le connecteur du lecteur optique et le boîtier du lecteur optique.

  • Faites tourner le spudger pour séparer le connecteur du lecteur optique.

  • Vous pouvez être amené à travailler alternativement de chaque côté du connecteur pour le débrancher.

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  • Soulevez le lecteur optique hors du boîtier arrière et écartez-le du côté du boîtier de manière à retirer la bande adhésive EMI collée sur sa surface.

  • Le capteur thermique du lecteur optique est toujours attaché au dessous du lecteur.

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  • Si nécessaire, retirez le morceau de ruban mousse qui recouvre le capteur thermique du lecteur optique.

  • Pour retirer le capteur thermique du lecteur optique, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever la partie centrale de la bride du capteur, tout en tirant délicatement sur le câble.

  • Si le capteur thermique est collé sur le disque dur, passez à l'étape suivante.

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  • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur la bride du capteur thermique pour la décoller du lecteur optique.

  • Si l'adhésif est encrassé ou n'adhère plus au nouveau lecteur optique, placez une bande adhésive double-face sous les deux pattes semi-circulaires de la bride du capteur thermique.

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  • À l'aide d'un spudger, retirez le petit morceau de mousse EMI du dessous du lecteur optique.

  • N'oubliez pas de la recoller sur le nouveau lecteur optique.

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  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 6,5 mm de chaque côté du lecteur optique (quatre vis au total).

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  • Décollez la bande adhésive EMI du lecteur optique.

  • N'oubliez pas de la recoller sur le nouveau lecteur optique.

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  • Faites pivoter légèrement le support par rapport au lecteur optique.

  • Tirez sur le support pour le séparer du lecteur en prenant soin de ne pas arracher les pattes de fixation.

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Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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