Introduction

Le retrait de l'écran de l'iMac Intel 27 "Retina 5K Display nécessite de couper l'adhésif avec un outil d'ouverture spécialisé pour iMac. Une fois que vous avez terminé votre réparation, vous devrez suivre notre tutoriel de remplacement des bandes adhésives pour réinstaller la vitre d'écran.

Avant de commencer tout travail sur votre iMac: Débranchez l'ordinateur et maintenez le bouton d'alimentation enfoncé pendant dix secondes pour décharger les condensateurs de l'alimentation.

Soyez très prudent pour ne pas toucher les câbles du condensateur ou les joints de soudure exposés à l'arrière de l'alimentation.

En partant de la gauche de l'écran, près du bouton de mise sous tension, insérez l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le boîtier arrière.
  • En partant de la gauche de l'écran, près du bouton de mise sous tension, insérez l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le boîtier arrière.

  • Le moyeu de l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac vous empêchera d'engager la roulette trop loin. Si vous vous servez d'un autre outil, ne l'insérez pas de plus d'un centimètre dans l'écran. Sinon, vous risquez de sectionner les câbles de l'antenne et de provoquer de graves dégâts.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - Réponse

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan -

Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

Walter Hayden - Réponse

Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

Walter Hayden - Réponse

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Réponse

I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

Servez-vous de l'outil comme d'une roulette à pizza, en suivant le pourtour de l'iMac, de manière à effectuer une découpe au centre de la mousse adhésive.
  • Servez-vous de l'outil comme d'une roulette à pizza, en suivant le pourtour de l'iMac, de manière à effectuer une découpe au centre de la mousse adhésive.

  • Veillez à toujours pousser l'outil en plaçant la poignée derrière la roulette. Si vous tirez sur l'outil, la roulette risque de sortir de la poignée.

  • Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté gauche de l'écran.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - Réponse

  • Continuez à passer l'outil en suivant l'angle supérieur gauche de l'écran.

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  • Découpez la mousse adhésive le long du bord supérieur gauche de l'écran.

The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

  • Continuez tout au long du bord supérieur de l'écran.

  • Vous pouvez repasser l'outil plusieurs fois au même endroit pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.

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  • Passez l'outil dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'écran.

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  • Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté droit de l'écran.

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  • Pour finir, passez l'outil au bas de l'écran en partant de la droite.

  • À ce stade, vous pouvez repasser l'outil tout autour de l'écran pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.

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  • Bien que l'outil ait fait le plus gros du travail, il est probable que l'écran continue d'adhérer légèrement au boîtier. Vous aurez besoin d'une carte plastifiée pour découper le reste de la mousse adhésive.

  • Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une table.

  • En partant de l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac, insérez une carte plastifiée entre l'écran et le cadre.

    • Ne l'enfoncez pas de plus d'un centimètre, vous pourriez endommager les composants internes.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - Réponse

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - Réponse

i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

Eugene Kharkov - Réponse

  • Bien que l'outil ait fait le plus gros du travail, il est probable que l'écran continue d'adhérer légèrement au boîtier. Vous aurez besoin d'une carte plastifiée pour découper le reste de la mousse adhésive.

  • Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une table.

My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

  • Veillez à vous arrêter avant la caméra iSight afin de ne pas l'endommager.

  • Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran pour découper le reste de mousse adhésive.

was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

Julia S. - Réponse

  • Réintroduisez la carte dans l'angle et laissez-la en place pour éviter que la mousse adhésive ne recolle l'écran et le cadre.

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  • Insérez une seconde carte dans l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre dans l'angle supérieur gauche.

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  • Tournez doucement la carte pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre.

  • Procédez comme vous l'avez fait de l'autre côté : déplacez la carte lentement pour découper la mousse adhésive en veillant à ne pas exercer une pression excessive sur la vitre de l'écran.

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  • Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran et veillez à vous arrêter juste avant la caméra iSight.

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  • Réinsérez la carte dans l'angle supérieur gauche.

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  • Soulevez l'écran de quelques centimètres seulement, car il est encore relié à l'iMac par les câbles de données et d'alimentation.

  • Les deux cartes étant insérées près des angles de l'iMac, comme illustré, tournez-les doucement pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le boîtier.

  • Si l'écran et le boîtier restent collés à certains endroits, utilisez l'une des cartes pour découper la mousse adhésive et les séparer.

  • Commencez à soulever le haut de l'écran pour le séparer du cadre.

I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

Marco De Palma - Réponse

  • Tout en maintenant l'écran d'une main, débranchez son câble d'alimentation de l'autre main.

    • Soulevez l'écran suffisamment pour accéder sans difficulté aux connexions (environ 20 cm), mais pas trop, afin de ne pas soumettre les câbles et les connexions à des tensions excessives.

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Réponse

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Réponse

The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

Ed tabickman - Réponse

  • Basculez le support de fixation métallique du câble de données de l'écran vers le haut.

  • Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran.

    • Cette connexion est fragile et peut être facilement endommagée. Veillez à tirer le connecteur du câble de l'écran vers le haut de l'iMac, en le tenant droit, pour le débrancher de sa prise.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - Réponse

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan -

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - Réponse

Sorry damaged display

Dan -

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - Réponse

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz -

[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

Jim Kelly - Réponse

Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

Sam Lionheart -

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Réponse

  • Relevez l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit presque vertical.

  • À ce stade, il reste une bande de mousse adhésive en bas de l'écran, qui maintient ensemble l'écran et le cadre comme une charnière. Vous pouvez la décoller en abaissant et en relevant l'écran plusieurs fois de suite.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - Réponse

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - Réponse

Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

Peter Haigh - Réponse

There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

Todd Derek - Réponse

The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

Andrew Stephens - Réponse

  • Servez-vous, si nécessaire, d'une carte plastifiée pour découper la mousse adhésive aux endroits où le bas de l'écran continue d'adhérer au cadre.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Réponse

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - Réponse

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - Réponse

[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

John Warmann - Réponse

Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

Charlie Nancarrow - Réponse

  • Faites très attention lorsque vous manipulez l'écran : il est grand, lourd et en verre.

  • Soulevez l'écran pour le séparer du cadre et sortez-le de l'iMac.

  • Vous devrez peut-être soulever lentement l'écran d'un côté pour le décoller complètement.

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  • Si la charnière n'est pas bloquée, l'iMac sera mal équilibré et vous aurez du mal à le manipuler. Vous pouvez effectuer les réparations en suivant les instructions, mais elles seront plus rapides et plus faciles avec un .

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Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse et utilisez notre tutoriel de remplacement des bandes adhésives pour réinstaller la vitre d'écran.

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Sam Lionheart

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12 commentaires

If you cut around the display well and take your time to roll back and forth (using the iFixit roller opener tool), especially around the corners, you don't actually need to use any cards (Steps 9 - 17) to get the screen to come free of the body. On the top edge left and right, take each end of the screen gently and pry free with your fingers - GENTLY - and you will hear the remaining tape separating along the sides. Take care NOT to flex the screen as you do so.

If you are removing a cracked screen (as I was), be super careful to pry and swing the display EVENLY up from the body - this is an item of utmost importance, whether you use cards or not to get the last of the adhesive to release.

drmacnut - Réponse

Finally, with the power and data cables disconnected and the display held up at around 80º, you will find that the adhesive along the bottom edge of the display assembly will take quite some work to free. As the guide says, you can use a plastic card; but I found it necessary to use a metal spuger (carefully so as not to touch the power supply board of course!) in order to free the lower adhesive and remove the display.

Overall, take your time and focus on "being one with the iMac" as you work, and you will find it quite trivial to remove this 27" retina display.

drmacnut - Réponse

hello, I'm writing from Italy. I have a problem with the screen of the iMac 27 "5k retina late 2014, purchased the 12-22-2014, I do not know if the warranty covers this type of defect within two years. There are spots in the lower left, appear as sagging, I think it's the dust, but I assure you that the environment is clean with no smoke or whatever. Obviously the spots are inside, how can I fix it, other news of these spots? I have to completely change the display or can separate the glass from the monitor LED?

Many thanks

Enzo

Enzo - Réponse

this should be covered by warranty. call applecare.

vireshkj -

Hello,

Any Update? Mine has the same issue and it is out of warranty.

Would an air blower do the trick past point 17/18?

Homoud Al-Jalahma -

Do you know where I can order a new replacement screen from? Im based in the UK? Thank you

jujuhay - Réponse

I'm having some trouble finding compatible displays for this repair online. What is the correct part name? How can I be sure that the part is the Late 2015 version with the increased color gamut over the earlier models?

Tim Camber - Réponse

Cracked my screen trying to separate the corner. Great.

derek - Réponse

Very Fragile Glass. Cracked Top Left Hand Side, just trying to move it.

I am very competent IT & Repair, no problems, up till now, over 20 Years in the Business.

I must search out & get a Replacement. It's only a small FRACTURE, but its annoying.

Thanks for the info.

It's the same type of Replacement, for many Smart Phones.

Stephen Bailey - Réponse

Hi, I updated my brand new iMac and everything went perfectly well except that the adhesive strip kit on iFixit is no longer a good fit to the new iMacs… it can still do the trick but it’s it perfectly aligned so is there another kit available somewhere?

On the other I fell over my desk and broke part of the screen, it’s still working but I’d like to replace it, would you happen to know where I can purchase a 27” screen for the new iMacs? Thanks in advance,

fpeliss - Réponse

This is a crappy cheap design. Almost looks as if it is made to break easily. Cracked the display following these instructions line by line just to upgrade the hard drive on my brand new iMac.

Ana Tenorio - Réponse

Does anyone have a link to a reliable part replacement for this screen?

Jeremiah Choi - Réponse

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