Utilisez ce tutoriel pour réparer l'écran de votre iPad Mini 2. Ce tutoriel vous montrera comment remplacer le panneau frontal, y compris la vitre tactile, le bouton home et la vitre de l'écran de votre iPad Mini 2 LTE.

Ce tutoriel vous montrera également comment enlever et transférer les aimants de la smart cover de votre nouvelle vitre tactile. Sans ces aimants, votre smart cover ne fermera plus.

Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.
  • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

  • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

    • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener se coince, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Réponse

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Réponse

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Réponse

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Réponse

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Réponse

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Réponse

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - Réponse

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - Réponse

Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



Cedric VINCENT - Réponse

Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.
  • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

  • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

  • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser.

  • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

  • Si l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au milieu pour le toucher, continuez de l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il ait assez refroidi pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé doit rester chaud pendant 10 minutes environ.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Réponse

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Réponse

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Réponse

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Réponse

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Réponse

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Réponse

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Réponse

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Réponse

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Réponse

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Réponse

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Réponse

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - Réponse

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - Réponse

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - Réponse

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


Karl Marble - Réponse

  • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates pour éviter le milieu qui est très chaud.

  • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez un gant de cuisine si nécessaire.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Réponse

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - Réponse

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - Réponse

  • Si la vitre de votre appareil est fêlée, pour éviter toute autre casse et de vous blesser, il est préférable de recouvrir la vitre de bandes adhésives.

  • Placez des bandes adhésives transparentes se chevauchant sur l'écran de l'iPad jusqu'à ce que tout la face soit couverte.

    • Cela permettra de ne pas faire tomber les éclats de verre contenus et de garder une certaine stabilité lorsque vous ferez levier et enlèverez l'écran.

  • Faites de votre mieux pour suivre le reste du tutoriel tel que décrit. Cependant, une fois que le verre est cassé, il continuera sûrement à craqueler et vous devrez peut-être utiliser un outil en métal pour dégager les éclats de verre.

  • Il est recommandé de porter des lunettes de sécurité pour protéger vos yeux. Attention à ne pas non plus abîmer l'écran LCD.

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  • En le manipulant par le attaches de chaque côté, placez l'iOpener chauffé sur le côté de l'iPad à gauche du bouton home.

  • Laissez l'iOpener agir pendant environ cinq minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le verre.

Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

Matthieu Nasri - Réponse

The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

Sam Attwood -

what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

SkipR - Réponse

That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

Sam Lionheart -

  • Posez soigneusment une ventouse au milieu de la partie chauffée.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse adhère à l'écran sur toute sa surface pour obtenir un joint étanche.

  • Tout en maintenant l'iPad enfoncé d'une main, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement la vitre du panneau frontal de la coque arrière.

  • Veillez à soulever le vitre de juste ce qu'il faut pour insérer un médiator, car vous risqueriez de la briser en soulevant trop.

I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

William - Réponse

After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

Brian Tate - Réponse

I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

Pontus Sennerstam -

  • Tout en tenant la vitre avec la ventouse, insérez la pointe d'un médiator dans l'espace entre la vitre et le reste de l'iPad.

    • N'insérez pas le médiator plus profondément que le cache noir sur le côté de l'écran. L'insérer trop loin peut endommager l'écran LCD.

  • Tirez la ventouse en plastique pour ouvrir le joint d'étanchéité sous vide et retirez la ventouse de l'écran.

Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

SkipR - Réponse

I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

Sam Lionheart -

  • Refaites chauffer et remettez l'iOpener.

    • Veillez à ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la procédure de réparation. Attendez toujours au moins dix minutes avant de réchauffer l'iOpener.

  • Laissez-le agir pendant quelques minutes pour réchauffer le bord gauche de l'iPad.

Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

Chris Grayden - Réponse

  • Placez un deuxième médiator juste à côté du premier et faites-le glisser le long de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif au fur et à mesure.

  • Tout au long du reste de la procédure, si vous rencontrez une grande résistance en faisant glisser les médiators sous la vitre, arrêtez et réchauffez la section sur laquelle vous travaillez. Forcer les médiators risque de briser la vitre.

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  • Continuez à déplacer le médiator vers le bas de l'écran pour décoller l'adhésif.

  • Si le médiator reste coincé dans l'adhésif, faites-le tourner sur le côté de l'iPad, en continuant à décoller l'adhésif.

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  • Prenez le premier médiator que vous avez inséré et glissez-le vers le coin supérieur de l'iPad.

  • Si vous pouvez voir la pointe du médiator à travers la vitre, ne paniquez pas, tirez-le juste un peu. Tout se passera certainement bien, mais évitez, car vous pouvez mettre ainsi de l'adhésif sur l'avant de l'écran LCD et c'est difficile à nettoyer.

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  • Refaites chauffer l'iOpener et placez-le sur le bord supérieur de l'iPad, sur la caméra frontale.

    • Veillez à ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la procédure de réparation. Attendez au moins dix minutes avant de le refaire chauffer.

  • Si vous avez un iOpener flexible, vous pouvez le plier pour chauffer le coin supérieur gauche et le bord supérieur en même temps.

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  • Faites glisser le médiator le long du coin supérieur gauche de l'iPad pour décoller l'adhésif.

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  • Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord supérieur de l'iPad, en vous arrêtant juste avant d'atteindre la caméra.

  • La troisième image montre où la caméra frontale et son boîtier se trouvent dans l'iPad.

    • Évitez de faire glisser le médiator sur la caméra frontale, car vous risquez de mettre de l'adhésif sur la lentille ou d'endommager la caméra. Les étapes suivantes détaillent comment éviter d'endommager la caméra frontale.

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  • Tirez légèrement sur le médiator et faites-en glisser tout doucement la pointe le long de la section de la caméra frontale.

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  • Laissez le médiator dans l'iPad un peu plus loin que la caméra frontale.

  • Prenez un deuxième médiator et insérez-le à gauche de la caméra, là où le premier médiator était. Faites-le glisser vers le haut pour décoller complètement tout adhésif restant.

  • Laissez le deuxième médiator en place pour éviter que l'adhésif dans l'angle recolle lorsqu'il refroidit.

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  • Insérez le médiator de l'étape précédente plus profondément dans l'iPad et faites-le glisser de la caméra vers le coin.

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  • Laissez les trois médiators dans les coins de l'iPad afin d'empêcher que l'adhésif recolle à nouveau au panneau frontal.

  • Réchauffez l'iOpener et placez-le sur le côté long restant de l'iPad – le long des boutons de volume et de verrouillage.

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  • Faites glisser le médiator supérieur droit autour du coin pour décoller complètement le bord supérieur du verre.

  • Laissez ce médiator en place pour empêcher l'adhésif de recoller et prenez un nouveau médiator pour l'étape suivante.

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  • Insérez un nouveau médiator et faites-le glisser jusqu'au milieu du bord droit de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif au fur et à mesure.

This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

lordofmordor - Réponse

  • Continuez à glisser vers le bas de l'iPad jusqu'au prochain angle, en décollant l'adhésif.

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  • Laissez les médiators en place et refaites chauffer l'iOpener.

    • N'oubliez pas de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener, pas plus d'une fois toutes les dix minutes

  • Disposez l'iOpener réchauffé du côté bouton home de l'iPad et laissez agir pendant quelques minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le verre.

For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

Jeff G - Réponse

  • Faites glisser le médiator inférieur gauche vers le coin inférieur gauche pour décoller l'adhésif dans ce coin.

  • Laissez le médiator dans le coin. Ne le poussez pas plus loin et ne le retirez pas de l'iPad.

  • Il y a un certain nombre de choses à éviter sous le cache inférieur, alors étudiez attentivement la troisième image :

    • Antennes

    • Emplacement du bouton home

    • Nappe de la vitre tactile

  • Les étapes suivantes vous diront où faire levier pour éviter d'endommager ces composants. Chauffez et faites levier seulement là où c'est indiqué.

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  • Laissez le médiator de la dernière étape en place pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle.

  • Faites glisser le nouveau médiator légèrement au-dessus de l'antenne de gauche, avant de vous arrêter avant le bouton home.

    • Faites délicatement glisser le médiator depuis bord extérieur vers le centre de l'iPad. Ne le déplacez pas vers le bord extérieur, car cela pourrait endommager l'antenne.

    • Si vous devez passer plus d'une fois le médiator dans la partie inférieure, retirez-le et réinsérez-le sur le bord extérieur et faites-le glisser vers l'intérieur.

  • Laissez le médiator en place avant de continuer.

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  • Insérez la pointe d'un dernier médiator à côté de celui de l'étape précédente et faites-le glisser sous le bouton home.

  • Arrêtez à environ 2,5 cm du côté droit pour éviter de couper la nappe du LCD.

  • Insérez le médiator légèrement plus profondément et retournez vers le bouton home.

  • Encore une fois, assurez-vous de seulement faire glisser le médiator vers le centre de l'iPad lorsqu'il est complètement inséré. Sinon, vous risquez d'endommager l'antenne sous le verre.

Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

kimhoover - Réponse

  • Refaites chauffer et reposez l'iOpener sur la partie supérieure de l'iPad.

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  • Faites très attention pendant cette étape. Prenez votre temps et assurez-vous que l'adhésif est chaud et mou, et que vous avez coupé tout l'adhésif avec un médiator. N'ayez pas peur d'arrêter et de refaire chauffer.

  • En haut de l'iPad en face du bouton home, vous devriez avoir un médiator dans chaque coin. Faites pivoter les médiators pour soulever légèrement la vitre et décoller le dernier adhésif le long des quatre bords.

  • Si vous rencontrez une grande résistance, arrêtez de pivoter. Laissez les médiators en place, refaites chauffer et reposez l'iOpener sur les zones problématiques avant d'y faire passer un médiator une fois de plus.

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  • Soulevez lentement et délicatement pour continuer à détacher l'adhésif le long du bord inférieur.

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  • Une fois que tout l'adhésif a été décollé, ouvrez le verre avant comme une page de livre et posez-le sur votre table de travail.

This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

Tim Osborn - Réponse

Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

  • Le boîtier de la caméra frontale peut rester accroché au panneau frontal. Décollez-le et placez-le sur la caméra pour la protéger.

  • Faites pivoter le boîtier de la caméra sur un bord pour le décoller de l'adhésif et retirez-le du panneau frontal.

  • Remettez le boîtier de la caméra à sa place dans la coque arrière.

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  • Retirez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes qui fixent l'écran LCD :

    • Tris vis de 3,3 mm

    • Une vis de 4,5 mm

  • Si un ruban adhésif recouvre les vis du LCD, décollez-le avec une pincette.

This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

Chris Grayden - Réponse

stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?!

paramedic064 - Réponse

We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

Sam Lionheart -

I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

William - Réponse

This is a tip:

I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

mamashannon4u - Réponse

  • N'essayez pas d'enlever complètement l'écran LCD. Il est toujours connecté à l'iPad par plusieurs nappes du côté du bouton home. Soulevez uniquement du côté de la caméra frontale.

  • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger sous l'écran LCD entre celui-ci et la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD et soulevez délicatement.

Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

Tim Osborn - Réponse

This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

James - Réponse

This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

James - Réponse

I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

bababooey - Réponse

Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

rgstout -

awesome tip thanks

Pa Du -

The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

lorenzocangiano - Réponse

  • L'écran LCD est fixé par un adhésif doux qui doit être décollé avant de séparer l'écran LCD de sa plaque de protection.

  • Insérez le spudger entre l'écran LCD et la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD et faites-le glisser vers le haut de l'iPad.

Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

Kevin Rodriguez - Réponse

This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

Cool_Breeze - Réponse

I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

bababooey - Réponse

Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Réponse

  • Deux bandes larges adhésives relient l'écran LCD aux haut-parleurs.

  • Tenez l'écran LCD d'une seule main et la partie arrière de l'iPad de l'autre.

  • N'essayez pas d'enlever complètement l'écran LCD de l'iPad.

  • Retirez doucement l'écran LCD des haut-parleurs pour décoller les bandes adhésives, en prenant soin de ne pas tirer sur la nappe du tactile.

this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

Chris Grayden - Réponse

The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

Cool_Breeze - Réponse

This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

brentschwartz - Réponse

I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

bababooey - Réponse

As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

lorenzocangiano - Réponse

This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

Mike - Réponse

Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

William Dailey - Réponse

  • N'essayez pas d'enlever complètement l'écran LCD. Il est toujours connecté à l'iPad par plusieurs nappes du côté du bouton home. Soulevez du côté de la caméra frontale.

  • Retournez l'écran LCD de l'iPad comme la page d'un livre, en le saisaissant près de la caméra et le tournant vers le côté bouton home de la coque arrière.

    • Soyez soigneux et gardez un œil sur les nappes du LCD lorsque vous déplacez l'écran.

  • Posez l'écran LCD sur la vitre avant pour accéder aux nappes de l'écran.

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  • Faites glisser la pointe d'un spudger entre l'écran LCD et les languettes adhésives pour ouvrir l'écran.

  • Poussez doucement entre chacune des deux languettes adhésives. Veillez à ne pas endommager les nappes voisines.

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  • Retirez les sept vis cruciformes #00 de 1,8 mm de la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD.

My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

David Rowthorn - Réponse

  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour sortir la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD de l'iPad.

  • Retirez la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD.

You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

Will - Réponse

  • Retirez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes du cache de la nappe de l'écran :

    • Une vis de 2,7 mm

    • Deux vis de 1,4 mm

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  • Retirez le support du câble d'affichage de l'iPad.

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  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de la batterie hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Veillez à faire levier seulement sur le connecteur de la batterie et non sur la prise même. Si vous faites levier sur la prise de la carte mère, vous risquez de briser complètement le connecteur.

BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! If you don’t, when you put it back together the backlight will not light.

Owen Stevens - Réponse

And be sure to use something to block the connector from falling back and touching the battery connector again - a little tape or foam, or a piece of plastic will hold it safely.

info - Réponse

  • Utilisez un spudger pour soulever le connecteur LCD hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Ne faites pas levier pas contre le grand IC à côté du connecteur, vous pourriez le casser. Faites délicatement levier du côté du connecteur comme sur la photo.

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  • Soulevez et retirez l'écran LCD de l'iPad Mini.

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  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le connecteur de la nappe de la vitre tactile tout droit hors de sa prise.

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  • Faites glisser le spudger sous la carte de la vitre tactile du côté de la batterie pour commencer à le séparer de la coque arrière.

  • Soulevez la carte de la vitre tactile pour décoller le dernier adhésif.

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  • Soulevez et retirez le panneau avant de l'iPad.

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  • Si vous installez un nouveau panneau frontal complet, il peut être nécessaire de procéder comme suit :

    • Décollez les bandes plastiques recouvrant l'adhésif autour du panneau frontal.

    • Retirez le petit morceau de ruban adhésif sur la nappe de la vitre tactile.

  • Assurez-vous que tout le cuivre est recouvert sur l'écran de remplacement. Autrement, l'écran se déplacerait au hasard, une fois installé.

The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

paulmcneely - Réponse

The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

Kelly Spongberg - Réponse

Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

Any ideas anyone?

Pilar A - Réponse

What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

gentry - Réponse

What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

Yes, this is a pretty important instruction, it would seem. I can infer a meaning but would feel better if it was more specific. Thanks!

bstolzer - Réponse

stolzer  gentry  notice the photo above… there is exposed copper parts next to the home button, these must be covered in electrical tape.

David - Réponse

I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

Ken Bauer - Réponse

  • Repliez la nappe de la vitre tactile sur elle-même et appuyez fermement pour fixer l'adhésif.

The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

luc - Réponse

Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

Barry Tresadern -

@Barry Tresadern

I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

Patrick -

Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

Francisco O - Réponse

iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

Koby Springer -

With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

James - Réponse

James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

Katie -

I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

[deleted] - Réponse

Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

Michael Vovaris -

I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

James Johnson - Réponse

the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

ZARAGOZA - Réponse not remove this tape!

Banu -

Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

Ken Bauer -

THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

iKimmy - Réponse

Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

shanhaidong -

It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

philippschuller - Réponse

  • Avant d'installer votre nouveau panneau frontal, vous devrez transférer les aimants Smart Cover de votre ancien panneau frontal sur le nouveau.

  • Placez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture en plastique de chaque côté de l'aimant près du coin supérieur gauche du panneau frontal.

  • Calez soigneusement le bord de l'outil d'ouverture en plastique de droite sous l'aimant.

  • Maintenez-le fermement en place.

  • Calez l'outil d'ouverture en plastique gauche sous l'aimant et faites levier en le poussant vers l'outil d'ouverture en plastique droit.

  • Cela nécessitera une certaine force, car l'aimant Smart Cover est collé avec de l'adhésif solide.

On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

Ken Bauer - Réponse

  • Si nécessaire, utilisez une pincette pour retirer partiellement le morceau de ruban adhésif recouvrant l'aimant près du coin inférieur gauche du panneau frontal.

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  • Utilisez la procédure décrite précédemment pour retirer l'aimant Smart Cover près du coin inférieur gauche du panneau frontal.

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  • Dans cette étape, vous transférez les aimants Smart Cover sur le NOUVEAU panneau frontal.

  • Utilisez une pincette pour placer soigneusement l'aimant supérieur gauche à sa place.

  • Répétez la procédure avec l'aimant inférieur gauche.

  • Si nécessaire, utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour aplatir le morceau de ruban adhésif sur l'aimant inférieur gauche.

Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

David D - Réponse

BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

Chris Grayden - Réponse

Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

Phil Fite - Réponse

No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

Jim Dutton - Réponse

Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

Jim Dutton - Réponse

Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

Jim Dutton - Réponse

All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

Gary - Réponse

I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

Rory Filer - Réponse

Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

Yousef Ghalib - Réponse


Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Sam Lionheart

Membre depuis le 18/10/2012

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Does the screen they offer on this site come with the home button IC connector?

courtney m - Réponse

Does the Ipad min 2 with the wifi and the one without, both have the magnet's in the corner?

mona amin - Réponse

when removing the LCD panel be very careful the screw hole tabs break really easy i broke the one next to the cable, but i was able to repair it with epoxy that i had .

Ronald Rowland - Réponse

Just wanted to say that this guide was great! It took me around three hours since the screen was extremely broken with tiny pieces of glass that had to get removed. Other than that, I had no issues thanks to the help from this guide. Thanks!

Daniel Boyer - Réponse

I followed the instructions exactly but now my iPad won't turn on. Any suggestions?

Eddy R - Réponse

I followed the instructions exactly , And my ipad return new . Thanks

husam faraj - Réponse

This guide is supposed to be for the LTE version, not the wifi version. There are two cell antenna up top that fill the 2 holes that will be cut if you are not careful.

Adonijah Imgrund - Réponse

Connect the digitizer, LCD and battery and turn it on before you put it back together. It is sad to dismantle everything again just because you forgot to connect pin or because it wasn’t properly connected.

arnel01 - Réponse

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