Introduction
iPhone batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. After that, your iPhone may need to be charged far more frequently, and iOS may warn you that performance is affected (in other words, your phone will run slower). Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone to like-new performance.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the volume button edge of the iPhone.
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Press firmly to eject the tray.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.75 mm long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Please explain how to power off the phone when the broken screen is not responding to touch.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
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Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the plastic screen bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
If you have the small single suction cup. You have to get glass up enough to get under glass and touch sensor. I inserted pick too soon and separated glass from screen. $200 mistake. ;) Worth buying suction vise tool to get screen high enough. I would try it again after this mistake. with that vise tool.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
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Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
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Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
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Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Remove two 1.1 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery and display connector cover.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display cable connector.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove four screws securing the front sensor connector cover.
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Three 1.1 mm-long screws
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One 1.4 mm-long screw
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Swing the cover up from the left until the small clip on the right unhooks.
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Remove the cover.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 1.6 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the two 1.4 mm long screws securing the SIM card reader connector cover.
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Remove the SIM card reader cable connector cover.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the SIM card reader cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the SIM card reader.
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Two 1.4 mm screws
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One 1.1 mm screw
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Remove the Taptic Engine cable connector bracket.
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Use a standoff or a small flathead driver to remove the 2.82 mm long standoff screw securing the SIM card reader.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the Taptic Engine cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine.
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Two 2.8 mm long standoff screws
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One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the edge of the battery.
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Peel down the first battery adhesive pull-tab to un-stick it from the bottom edge of the battery.
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Grab the first pull-tab with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull hard enough to maintain tension on the strip, but don't force it. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strip flat and unwrinkled. Try to pull evenly on the whole strip, rather than pulling mainly in the middle or on one side.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag on the edge of the battery.
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If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
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Grab the second pull-tab with your fingers and pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Follow the same procedure as with the previous strip: don't press down on the battery, keep the strip flat and unwrinkled, and pull at a low angle.
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If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
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Using the same procedure as before, pull the remaining two tabs, one at a time, to stretch and remove the remaining adhesive strip holding the battery in place. Try not to snag the adhesive on anything.
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If you removed all the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
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Otherwise, continue with the next step below.
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If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
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Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
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Use an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
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Remove the battery.
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If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 12 Pro Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 12 Pro Answers community for help.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
31 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
10 commentaires
Thanks this is incredibly detailed.
Hello! Do you really need to take away the Taptic Engine and so many parts just to replace the battery?
nope, steps 31-40 are not necessary
AEV -
Everything went fine with the iFixit battery but now I have to deal with an "Important Battery Message" which I can't delete, and the badge number over the settings icon.
That is why we need to force apple to remove serial pairing
That is why we need to force apple to remove serial pairing to logic board
Step 3 references "waterproof seals" around the display which need to be replaced. But there is no description of this procedure, or depiction of what the seals look like. Nor are there any "waterproof seals" available for purchase.
The battery replacement kit includes an adhesive ring for the screen--is this the same thing? Even so there is no procedure shown for how to replace it. I imagine this requires very careful alignment so it would be helpful to have some guidance to make sure it is done correctly.
Please update the instructions to include how to replace the waterproof seals, to make it clear that it is, or is not, the same thing as the screen adhesive, and how to install the adhesive.
Having completed the repair, everything seems to work great other than my phone's battery is constantly showing 1% as the battery level. Has anyone else had this problem?
Caution regarding the waterproof seals, as they could potentially harm the plastic inserts surrounding the display, leaving the screen vulnerable without its protective plastic casing. To mitigate this risk, it's advisable to apply heat to the left portion of the iPhone where the flex cables are located to soften the seals.
What is below the Taptic Engine with the two prongs?
Kgraves - Réponse