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Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6

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  1. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Vis Pentalobe: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Avant de désassembler votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer la réparation.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 3,6 mm de long, situées de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

    When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

    Blair Tryba - Réponse

    what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

    kristian686 -

    Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

    Howard Bales - Réponse

    Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

    For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

    On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

    Maarten Vergauwen -

    Thanks for the suggestion! I heated up a hot/cold pack, and it worked great.

    Linda Chandler -

    I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

    Bailey Wilson - Réponse

    Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

    Sam Goldheart -

    See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

    Kenneth Hilstan -

    I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

    socratesmens - Réponse

    The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

    1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

    2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

    I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

    Gary Long - Réponse

    I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

    Matt D - Réponse

    Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

    “We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

    What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

    Brice - Réponse

    Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

    William Miller - Réponse

    I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

    I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

    If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

    Megan Telliano - Réponse

    I agree. The Magnetic Project Mat makes your project incredibly easier and keeps your screws/parts organized. Here is the link for anyone interested:

    Magnetic Project Mat

    Cooper -

    or some masking tape with sticky side up and the ends folded underneath on a piece of paper, then you can write notes like

    “1.4mm for FOO bracket →”

    “7x2.3mm for EMI cover, different one by camera →”

    The arrows point as appropriate.

    If you drop something, put a flashlight on the floor & shine it across the floor — Turn off ceiling & other lights off to maximize the shadow from the flashlight.

    Bass Clef -

    These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.

    Jennifer Porter - Réponse

    Which torx is this T?

    klemenecanze - Réponse

    The screws are no torx screws they are Apple Pentalobe screws. You need to buy a Pentalobe screwdriver seen above.

    Claes -

    I have to use the P2 right?

    Aman Singh - Réponse

    The best advice I can give is not to perform this operation over carpet.

    Bruce codding - Réponse

    I'm an amateur, but I was able to replace the parts almost perfectly while looking at this explanation, thank you very much.

    irichin.3.26 - Réponse

    was fairly easy more nerves than anything, one thing one should have on hand is alcohol just in case its needed. also if one doesn’t get the entire tape strips out, use the alcohol like suggested and lift the battery up. Then can grab the remaining tape strips with tweezers and pull it out. Easy to put back together just make sure the connectors are in. The screws are tiny so take your time. I plugged it in and it started charging and it worked. Great to have my 6 back for a trip as I wanted to use it for the camera, also my game phone so nice to have a battery that lasts. Yes having a flat place to put the parts and put them in separate area so they don’t get mixed up. It took about a hour with hunting for a spare bottle of alcohol.

    Greg Wischmeyer - Réponse

    The first step should always to be to backup your phone as there is always a slim chance that even a simple battery replacement may render the phone inoperable and data on it lost.

    Jim - Réponse

    Please do not forget to remove the SIM-Card tray!!

    Steffen Albrecht - Réponse

    I didn’t need to remove my sim card tray when I did my iPhone 6 battery replacement. Why do you suggest to remove it?

    Jim -

    You dont need to remove sim card while battery replacement

    bertan - Réponse

    Did mine today, with iFixit battery and iFixit tool kit. Did not need suction cup, to open case, as it had partially sprung open on left, as a result of a badly swollen battery. Supported base and screen with a bookend and rubber bands. This kept these parts at a 90 degree angle, so that screen did not need to be removed. IFixit screwdriver tips were perfect fit. Somewhat difficult to remove battery adhesive strips, but slow and steady got it done, after mild heating with hair dryer. Took about 3 minutes to reposition battery connector…just a wee bit tricky, to position correctly. Was careful to place top of screen in place first, and remainder snapped into place with light pressure, and replaced the 2 pentalobe screws.

    Will highly recommend iFixit for such a repair. Repair kit and battery, are first rate. I give this an 11, out of 10.?

    Len Drasin - Réponse

  2. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Instructions pour Anti-Clamp: étape 2, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Instructions pour Anti-Clamp: étape 2, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Instructions pour Anti-Clamp: étape 2, image 3 de 3
    • Les deux étapes suivantes montrent comment utiliser l'Anti-Clamp, un outil conçu pour faciliter la procédure d'ouverture. Si vous n'utilisez pas l'Anti-Clamp, sautez ces deux étapes pour une autre méthode.

    • Pour des instructions complètes sur l'utilisation de l'Anti-Clamp, suivez ce tutoriel.

    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.

    • Insérez le côté droit ou gauche de votre iPhone entre les bras.

    • Positionnez les ventouses en bas de l'iPhone : une sur le dessus juste au-dessus du bouton home, l'autre sur le dessous.

    • Appuyez sur les ventouses pour écarter à l'endroit désiré.

    • Si vous trouvez que la surface de votre appareil est trop glissante pour que l'Anti-Clamp y adhère, vous pouvez utiliser du ruban adhésif pour obtenir une surface mieux adhérente.

    I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

    fiftysomething - Réponse

    WORKED PERFECTLY… easy, no harm at all…. thanks a lot

    carlos restrepo -

  3. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 3, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 3, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 3, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'avant (loin de la charnière) pour verrouiller les bras.

    • Tournez la poignée de 360 degrés dans le sens horaire ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.

    • Assurez-vous que les ventouses restent alignées entre elles. Si elles commencent à se désaligner en glissant, relâchez un peu la tension sur les ventouses et réalignez les bras.

    • Insérez un médiator en dessous de l'écran lorsque l'Anti-Clamp a créé un espace suffisamment grand.

    • Si l'Anti-Clamp ne crée pas d'espace suffisant, tournez la poignée d'un quart de tout supplémentaire dans le sens horaire.

    • Ne tournez pas la poignée plus d'un quart de tour à la fois et attendez quelques secondes entre chaque quart de tour. Laissez l'Anti-Clamp et le temps faire le travail pour vous.

    • Sautez les trois prochaines étapes.

  4. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Procédure d'ouverture manuelle: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Si vous ne disposez pas d'iSclack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever la vitre :

    • Appliquez la ventouse sur l'écran, juste au-dessus du bouton home.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse adhère bien.

    • Si votre écran est très fissuré, le recouvrir d'une couche de ruban adhésif transparent peut aider la ventouse à adhérer. Il est également possible d'utiliser un ruban adhésif très résistant à la place de la ventouse. Si tout le reste échoue, vous pouvez coller la ventouse sur l'écran cassé.

    This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

    Erik Madsen - Réponse

    You can put clear tape over it. it works.

    Owen -

    Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

    Joanna - Réponse

    Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

    -Tom

    tombuy - Réponse

    How do you know Tom>

    Shawn - Réponse

  5. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et tirez de façon ferme et continue. L'écran tient beaucoup mieux que la plupart des composants.

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique, commencez à pousser le boîtier délicatement vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.

    • Il y a plusieurs clips qui attachent l'écran au boîtier, il vous faudra probablement utiliser et la ventouse et l'outil en plastique pour libérer l'écran.

    Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

    lauren carroll - Réponse

    Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

    Tobias - Réponse

    Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

    Dion Sosa - Réponse

    That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

    Megan Telliano -

    I did this too and left it throughout the repair. Super easy, and prevented phone from slipping and damaging the display cables.

    Felicia Johnson -

    Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

    youmingc - Réponse

    Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

    Adam - Réponse

    The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

    Chet Seidel - Réponse

    Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - Réponse

    Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

    Luke Man - Réponse

    I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

    Alan Derrick - Réponse

    Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

    scottrell - Réponse

    dont have a panel so idk know cant buy one help please !!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Kemonie Elliott - Réponse

    Suction cup with blue handle is so stiff it would not hold a suction. I ended up putting it in very hot water for about 5 minutes before I was ready to use it, that did the trick.

    lgjerry - Réponse

    The MORE iFixit plastic tools you have available for this step the merrier. It was effortless with two.

    Michael Russo - Réponse

  6. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 6, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse.

    • Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.

  7. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Ouverture du téléphone: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Ouverture du téléphone: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Ouverture du téléphone: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Ouvrez l'iPhone en soulevant la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière.

    • Le long du bord supérieur de l'écran, plusieurs clips créent une charnière partielle.

    • Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.

    It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

    ethanlust - Réponse

    Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

    Albert -

    Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

    Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

    SAS - Réponse

    This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

    Bruce Fournier - Réponse

    My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

    Tony Chicoine - Réponse

    same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

    Andrea Andreoli - Réponse

    Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

    Adam Carl - Réponse

    Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

    The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

    Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

    Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

    Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

    Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

    nigel - Réponse

    Yes - important to get those two rectangular brackets in place first but not all the way as you say.

    JustinO'Brien -

    Hola soy de Guatemala Me pueden ayudar a saber si puedo cambiar las partes de un A1589 a un A1549 iPhone 6

    alvarezgarcialuizfernando - Réponse

    Good thing am reading this prior to beginning any disassembly or re assembly. Thanks guys for the great tips

    Anthony Arenas - Réponse

  8. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 8, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 8, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 8, image 3 de 3
    • Ouvrez l'écran à un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier et calez-le contre un support pendant que vous travaillez.

    • A la rigueur, une canette fermée peut vous dépanner.

    • Rajoutez un élastique pour bien maintenir l'écran lorsque vous travaillez. Ceci évite de forcer inutilement sur les nappes.

    A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

    Ryan - Réponse

    I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

    dcommins - Réponse

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - Réponse

    This procedure does not require the removal of the battery, so your comment is not applicable unless the batter is being replaced.

    Douglas Fichtner -

    I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

    bobcloninger - Réponse

    If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

    Larry House - Réponse

    Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

    Sherman Homan - Réponse

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

    todd adelman - Réponse

    Exactly!!!!!

    Bunny -

    I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

    brian - Réponse

    Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

    smahar - Réponse

    Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

    Sam Goldheart -

    I feel like I just pulled off a minor miracle, successfully detaching and reattaching those four connectors. In the past I have also used the lean-against-a-box variant. Now I carefully apply several short pieces of painter’s tape to create a temporary “hinge,” in combo with the lean-against-a-box variant. If the bottom piece could be SUCCESSFULLY SECURED [painter’s tape loops?] to my work surface this should avoid needing to deal with the four connectors. IMPORTANT NOTE: At the end of the day this repair will ALWAYS be about pulling the white stretchy adhesive tape out from under the battery. And again the painter’s tape comes into play. This last battery replacement when I started to pull out the two adhesive strips I also, several times, applied enough tape to combine the strips and form a single grab point. Also, removing the “vibration” block allowed the the pull angle to be insanely shallow. Slowly-but-surely, both strips successfully emerged and battery was totally released.

    Michael Russo - Réponse

  9. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Retrait des vis du cache du connecteur de la batterie: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    J'achète
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes du cache de connecteur de la batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    • Une vis de 3,2 mm

    • Lors de la réparation, notez bien l'emplacement de chaque vis et assurez-vous qu'elles soient remises exactement au même emplacement pour éviter d'endommager votre téléphone.

    #000 needed here

    Dave - Réponse

    ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

    Cory Berends -

    Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

    kupies2011 - Réponse

    With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

    Wilson Styres - Réponse

    Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

    smcgreg - Réponse

    My phone was missing this screw also!

    Gail Starr -

    Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

    smcgreg - Réponse

    When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

    Juan Monge - Réponse

    I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

    Cavell Blood -

    Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

    Dan Solovay - Réponse

    None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

    Elaine Eason - Réponse

    I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

    Jameison Martin - Réponse

    what did you do, i have the same problem i don’t know what to do. I should have read the comments at first now I am left with an open phone

    Francky Maemble -

    I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

    Brian Adams - Réponse

    Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

    Matthijs Rog - Réponse

    Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

    Priscilla Cheng - Réponse

    When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

    dhcohen67 - Réponse

    why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

    i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

    Michael Amara - Réponse

    I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

    Tung-wei Lin - Réponse

    My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

    Alastair Lack - Réponse

    So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

    My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

    What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

    John Palaganas - Réponse

    The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

    Eric Craumer - Réponse

    Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

    Jimmy Doi - Réponse

    The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

    Michael Pesenti - Réponse

    So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

    Michael Pesenti - Réponse

    @michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu

    Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

    Michael Pesenti - Réponse

    I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

    Matt - Réponse

    Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

    Trish - Réponse

    You’ll want to secure each screw as you remove it - if you sneeze they will fly away and you’ll never find them. I recommend having a small bowl or container for each screw you remove and label them for reassembly.

    Jennifer Porter - Réponse

    I was worried about getting the screws mixed up, so I used Sharpies to color-code each screw before I removed it (red, orange, or yellow - corresponding to the iFixit illustrations) When I marked the screw, the bracket got some color on it too, so when I was replacing the screw, I was confident that I was putting the right screw into the right position.

    I also made a template-board by tracing an outline of the phone in the center of a piece of cardboard, and then gluing pieces of masking tape onto the cardboard, sticky-side up, one piece of tape for each bracket I removed. I drew an outline of the part on the tape, and made a red or orange or yellow dot for each screw that came from the bracket. It made it super-easy to keep track of the disassembly and reassembly. Took a little longer, but I didn't damage the logic board by using the wrong screw, and I was relaxed throughout the repair.

    GPS and WiFi now work perfectly!!!

    Thank you iFixit and commentators

    Paul Austin - Réponse

    Funny my one screwdriver fit all the screws with no problem!

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

    @Paul Austin: colouring the screws is a galaxy-brain tier idea, I will definitely be doing this!

    povman - Réponse

    Are you just out of luck if you start to strip a screw? The first, 3.2 mm came out easily but the 2.2 mm is a little worse for wear. I’d be grateful for any tips you might have.

    Andrea Nixon - Réponse

    Turns out the included PH000 head does work with both screws. They are both the same size gauge; only difference is the length. I had the same kind of trouble as most others trying to unscrew them. But if you carefully apply consistent direct downward pressure as you turn, the screw does disengage and unscrew. It helps to stand up over the work for more leverage. And it aids in keeping the screw driver head in full contact with screw head, so it doesn’t slip and strip the head.

    ARNOLD SCHWARTZ - Réponse

    I am surprised by all of the comments about the screwdriver bits being the wrong size - I have done several iPhone repairs now with the tools provided by iFixit, and the screwdrivers work perfectly for me every time.

    Joe - Réponse

    I bought the Ifixit tool kit on amazon for $70 and i don't see any 3.2 mm or 2.2 mm in the black box. does anyone know what screw i am supposed to use because i have no idea what i'm doing wrong. I opened the bottom screws on the Iphone 6 just fine but for the inside screws i dont see 3.2 or 2.2. can anyone help me? i hope I didnt waste $70 on the wrong thing.

    YuhBoiiJay - Réponse

  10. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le cache métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

    Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

    mjcoughlin70 - Réponse

    The YouTube video could use an update, but unfortunately YouTube does not allow that. Always disconnect the battery before disassembling anything else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

    Bobby Slone - Réponse

  11. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Déconnexion du connecteur de la batterie: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur de batterie pour le soulever de son emplacement sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à ne faire levier que sur le connecteur de batterie et non pas sur sa prise sur la carte mère. Si vous faites levier sur la prise, vous risquez de casser le connecteur entier.

    I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

    Tonima Chaudhury - Réponse

    I wish I had done that.

    Gail Starr -

    Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

    Andy Milne -

    Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

    Tom Long -

    In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

    Perrin Haley -

    I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

    youmingc - Réponse

    I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

    jaksbackpack - Réponse

    Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

    mitch Toler - Réponse

    You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

    Reza I. Permana -

    Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

    As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

    Russ Levey - Réponse

    It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

    Udo Schuehle - Réponse

    I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

    Garret Gray - Réponse

    I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

    Garret Gray - Réponse

    The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

    Gabriel Zachmann - Réponse

    When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

    Chet Seidel - Réponse

    Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

    Tom Rohrer -

    I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

    Kevin Harvey -

    I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

    thomasjmaclean - Réponse

    I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

    Sare - Réponse

    It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

    Alex Kosmider - Réponse

    Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

    Alex Kosmider -

    For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

    lowestseries - Réponse

    Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

    cambo.robertson - Réponse

    Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

    What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

    Juan - Réponse

    I can’t seem to get the battery connector to connect to the logic board. Is there some reason it doesn’t click or do something to hold it in place before the battery connector bracket?

    Leif Rambjor - Réponse

    @lrambjor No special technique; just line it up and press down, and it should snap into place. Make sure there’s no dirt/debris in the socket; give it a blast with some compressed air if needed. And make sure you’re not trying to jam an iPhone 6s battery into an iPhone 6 (or vice versa)—they aren’t compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So her guys I skipped 13 but when attaching the ribbons( which is the LCD,camera etc ) I got a little smoke while trying to attach the ribbons and now i am not seeing anything but the phone is vibrating and coming on but i cant see anything

    What is the reason

    juniour Bowens - Réponse

    Who are you kidding? Plastic tool” is cute, but totally useless for lifting that battery connector off the logic board. But the smaller of the four long-handles Metal tools iFixit sells as a set worked perfectly well.

    Michael Russo - Réponse

    Reattaching the battery connector was one of the more difficult parts of this repair. Once you place the battery on the rear cover and the adhesive sticks you cannot make any adjustments to position (even though I tried to just place it as lightly as possible at first). I did a dry run attaching the connector and placing the battery before removing the adhesive cover but I did not get it to sit the quite the same after removing the cover. I had to fiddle with the battery connector quite a bit to get it in place.

    Raymond Rinaldi - Réponse

  12. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Retrait des vis du cache de la nappe d'écran: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes qui maintiennent le cache de la nappe d'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 1,7 mm

    • Une vis de 3,1 mm

    • Si ces vis sont placées au mauvais endroit lorsque vous remontez votre appareil, vous risquez de causer des dommages irréversibles à la carte mère de votre iPhone.

    Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

    damianodessgillett - Réponse

    I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

    griffn - Réponse

    I seriously draw a picture of the part, and mark where the screws belong, then place the screw on its location on the drawing! I so don’t want to screw it up(no pun intended)

    lisa OBrien -

    Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

    kev - Réponse

    I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

    adlerpe - Réponse

    i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

    girlsrock742 - Réponse

    @girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

    # Be more specific about what your issue is.

    # Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

    Good luck!

    Bass Clef - Réponse

    Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

    Carol N -

    Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

    Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

    Bass Clef - Réponse

    It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

    cruz.giovanni - Réponse

    I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

    Patric - Réponse

    Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

    Michael Aguilera - Réponse

    It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

    Adam - Réponse

    I agree that it is not necessary to perform steps 13-19. I just successfully replaced my battery and skipped steps 13-19. I kept the screen assembly out of the way be securing it with a rubber band to a heavy candle jar. Note that even Gwendolyn, in the video for this batter replacement, does not mention disconnecting the screen.

    Robert Blackburn -

    Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

    nzf - Réponse

    Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

    Sare -

    I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

    I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

    Matt Whiteley - Réponse

    There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

    arunhn - Réponse

    100% agree. Step 13-19 are totally unnecessary and just adds the risk of breaking the display connector. “Don’t disassemble stuff that doesn’t need disassembling.” Just ensure there’s no strain on the display cable when removing the battery, i.e. by placing the phone on a non-slippery rubbery surface and fix the display to something sturdy with rubber bands.

    Dormouse -

    I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

    Joel Horie - Réponse

    I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

    kevin hekman - Réponse

    I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

    Billy Bob Baler - Réponse

    Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

    Tanya Lyn Willard - Réponse

    You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

    June Beltran -

    Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

    smahar -

    I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

    Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

    June Beltran - Réponse

    I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

    Walter White - Réponse

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

    J Marr - Réponse

    Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

    Mc Floyd -

    It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

    jacobdanderson -

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - Réponse

    How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

    predylindsay - Réponse

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery and there is no Step 33. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

    BW Lee - Réponse

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

    MClare - Réponse

    I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

    Heather Best - Réponse

    Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

    Peter - Réponse

    I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

    Patrick Reed - Réponse

    You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

    When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

    Gabriel Zachmann - Réponse

    You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

    ACMT - 4 years.

    jonbessom - Réponse

    I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

    Michael Kirkpatrick - Réponse

    There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

    Naresh Annepu - Réponse

    If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - Réponse

    If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

    Eric Craumer - Réponse

    Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

    L He - Réponse

    Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

    Sherman Homan - Réponse

    I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

    Sare - Réponse

    @sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

    That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

    Sare - Réponse

    well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

    philbjh - Réponse

    For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

    lowestseries - Réponse

    Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

    The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

    Indiana Jones - Réponse

    Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

    d.rando90 - Réponse

    i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

    Regan Murray - Réponse

    I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

    AndyKao - Réponse

    Bottom left 1.2 screw assembly broke off from the mother board and now my phone will not power up . Can there be another reason for the phone not switching on . How important to the function of the phone is the broken screw assembly ?

    Gary Brinkworth - Réponse

    The phone will power on and work just fine without any of the screws in this particular step—the screws are for securing the bracket and keeping the connectors from popping out. I’m not sure what your issue could be, but a missing screw isn’t it! I’d probably start by reseating all the connections and giving it another try. Check the board carefully for damage. Try posting your question in our Answers forum with all the details and you may be able to get some troubleshooting help there. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for your reply

    even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

    Gary Brinkworth - Réponse

    Initially thought I would skip these steps, as many people said to skip steps 13-19, but I tried proceeding without removing the front panel, and my adhesive strips simply would not remove, even with heating….so off the front panel came. Putting it back (connecting the cables back) was definitely a little panic-inducing, but managed to do it without damage - definitely watch some youtube videos!

    Hannah Hyun - Réponse

    Most companies standardize the screws on their products, but since Apple does not want you to fix your phone on its own, it has set a trap for you to damage it. I think that this criminal action may be entailing a lawsuit.

    br_flavio - Réponse

    I have to use PH000 right?

    Aman Singh - Réponse

    Xmas day here 2020 and i decided to skip separation of the screen from the base. got the battery out no problem. did remove the vibrator plate and felt that really helped to remove the adhesive strips. just keep the screen nicely propped up and you should have no problems. not seeing any reason at all to remove the cables and screen.

    keith florine - Réponse

    Are there any other alternative i can use to unscrew the 1.7 mm screw?

    mormi mormi - Réponse

  13. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.

    I can’t get the top left screw back in if the cable bracket. Any reason why. My phone has power and back light is coming on. But screen is blank

    Joan Fitzgerald - Réponse

    In my case the top left screw - the orange screw - stayed in the front panel assembly cable bracket and would not come out. Later on I realized that the standoff screw which is underneath stayed fixed in the 1.7 mm screw. In fact this was no problem and I didn’t need to figure out how to remove the standoff screw at step 36. I just put it back in altogether and it worked fine. I actually removed both screws at once.

    Anja S - Réponse

  14. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 14, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 14, image 2 de 2
    • Lors des quatre étapes suivantes, veillez à ne faire levier que sur les nappes des connecteurs, et non pas sur leurs prises sur la carte mère.

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) ou d'un ongle, déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra frontale et le connecteur de la nappe du capteur.

    I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

    douglas hughes - Réponse

    Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

    mahoffman - Réponse

    I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

    alyssaavaldezz - Réponse

    Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

    Veronica del Rio -

    regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

    David Panak - Réponse

    This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

    gybeho -

    omg…. thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Stephanie Mille -

    Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

    lee moran - Réponse

    my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

    andrew midgett - Réponse

    Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

    gybeho - Réponse

    "gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

    cruz.giovanni - Réponse

    it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

    Dakota Navarrete - Réponse

    I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

    Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

    PG McLaughlin - Réponse

    Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

    PG McLaughlin - Réponse

    Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

    William Breen - Réponse

    +1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

    drpotter -

    For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

    Chet Seidel - Réponse

    I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

    Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

    Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

    Pitt Monqui - Réponse

    Please how much is the battery if converted into Ghana cedis?

    Pappy Joe - Réponse

    1 Ghanaian Cedi equals $0.19 United States Dollar. Therefore, the $30 USD iPhone battery kit equals 161.04 Ghanaian Cedi.

    Don Lawton -

    Got it all connected properly but front facing camera won’t work. I heard that connector snap into place but it just doesn’t work anymore. I even took it all apart again and redid that connection but nothing. Bummer, but I’m not a selfie person, I only used it when I was holding my dog on my lap. Everything else works fine after the battery re-install so…whatever.

    C Trigger - Réponse

  15. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 15, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 15, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule ou un ongle pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home.

    Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

    Gracias.

    Berta fernandez - Réponse

    I have the same problem. The phone turns on when I disconnect the home button cable, but turns off some seconds after I reconnect it. Does anybody have a solution?

    Tim Wende -

    If you look in the prior steps , it clearly says to disconnect the battery when disassembling and reassembling.

    Anthony Arenas -

  16. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 16, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 16, image 2 de 2
    • À cette étape, assurez-vous que la batterie est déconnectée avant de déconnecter ou de reconnecter la nappe.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule ou un ongle pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe des données de l'écran.

    • Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe des donnés de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.

    you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

    copykatt - Réponse

    My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

    Gabriel Hirata - Réponse

    Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

    William Mullan - Réponse

    When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

    Christopher - Réponse

    NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

    taylor sparks - Réponse

    Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

    Dave - Réponse

    If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

    grjos - Réponse

    If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

    Andrew Hill - Réponse

    what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

    Daniel Murcia - Réponse

    what if the batery was not disconnected?

    Sergio Midence - Réponse

    Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

    Trish - Réponse

    Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

    Cyndi - Réponse

    I finally got the cables to reconnect. I actually was being to gentle pushing them down. Line them up gently then firmly press them in place.

    halac6 - Réponse

    i went through all the steps, except i forgot to disconnect my battery, now my phone has lines and i can see horizontal pixels (as in the images are not smooth anymore). when i performed power cycle, the screen is still the same. What can i Do

    kingsley Jide - Réponse

    During the reassembly, the ordering of the ribbons on the iFixit part at the top of the phone were mis-layered. The display data cable connector and the digitizer cable connector (steps 18 and 19 in the guide) were swapped in there ordering. This was fixed by my disassembly of the camera bracket following the guide 'iPhone 6 Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement'. This allowed me to fix the layered ordering of the connectors.

    Ryan - Réponse

  17. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 17, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 17, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate de la spatule pour déconnecter la nappe de la vitre tactile.

    • Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe de l'écran, n'appuyez pas au milieu du connecteur. Appuyez d'abord sur un des côtés du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Si vous appuyez au milieu, vous risquez de plier le connecteur et d'endommager l'écran.

    Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

    griffn - Réponse

    i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

    awr - Réponse

    How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

    falken1337 - Réponse

    Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

    Bailey Duncan - Réponse

    This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

    Keith Mullins - Réponse

    So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

    After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

    Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

    Jonathan Rivera - Réponse

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

    grjos - Réponse

    I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

    Charlotte - Réponse

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

    Simon Tengstrand -

    Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

    Ume Nishikino - Réponse

    My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

    Sissy -

    I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

    Heywoz - Réponse

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

    Will - Réponse

    I Had two repairs on separate phones, and got sloppy on the second one and pressed the middle of this connector with my finger. It bent the right side ever so slightly. I thought I’d read the comments before ordering a new screen and I’m glad I did. I then took a closer look and saw on the right side the two rows of points at the end weren’t running parallel anymore. Using the tweezers from the kit I squeezed the misaligned rows back true and tried one more time to install, focusing on the right (previously damaged) side first to ensure it snapped into place. Voila! All is well.

    Excellent instructions, great products, and REALLY HELPFUL COMMENTS! Thanks!

    Clint Casanova - Réponse

    This was the hardest step for me. The iHold helped a lot. Used my fingers for all the connectors. Just make sure the cable that goes to the lowest connector is placed above all before trying to insert any.

    Pau - Réponse

    I’ll strongly agree that this is the most difficult and time consuming step of reassembly. As Pau has stated it is vital that the cables are layered in the correct order before you begin attempting the connections.

    Check back to Step 21. It’s not clear from the photos, but the ribbons can be run under each other. The display connection and the home button connection can become transposed at Step 21.

    If in doubt, check the size of the connections and re-order accordingly.

    Dom Gernon - Réponse

    After reassembling I have 3 letters on the virtual keyboard that don’t do anything anymore. It is the B, H and U. Could this be related to this (another) connector. (the screen is also broken but this time I only replaced the battery an it worked before this

    Erik Wegman - Réponse

    Bonsoir je voudrais savoir si c'est possible que l'a ou l'on coche la nape de l'écran tactile peut se de fixé

    Et comment faire si c'est le cad

    francoislevi akolia - Réponse

    My first attempt resulted in loss of touch response to a vertical column of app icons on the screen. From the Safari app at the bottom to the top of the screen, every app icon in that column was unresponsive to touch. Couldn’t open them. And this was true for every screen, including a corresponding bundle of letters and numbers in the same screen location when trying to use the keyboard. I did a hard reset any number of times without success until I finally realized the pattern: the vertical column of unresponsiveness.

    I remembered the caveat about connecting the digitizer cable — don’t press the center, do each side — and figured I must have made a bad connection. So I opened up the case again and went all the way down to the digitizer connection and did it more carefully, as advised. Sure enough, problem solved. Take the precaution.

    William Damkoehler - Réponse

    Replacing the digitizer cable was accomplished by moving the base to line up with the flexible connection then using a finger to press into place feeling that the connection was correct worked, then pressing into place with a click of confirmation. the rest of the cables fell into place afterword.

    Teri Wright - Réponse

  18. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Séparation de l'écran et du boîtier arrière: étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Détachez l'écran du boitier arrière.

    Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

    Joeri Boersen - Réponse

    Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - Réponse

    Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

    Neos Kosmos - Réponse

    It would be worth noticing, either at this step or below, the order of the stripes. Reassembling the fron panel requires them in the correct order, and “follow the instructions in reverse order” is not enough if there is not a detail on how the cables are ordered.

    Roger - Réponse

    I successfully left the screen assembly attached while replacing my battery. I even had my adhesive strips break off and had to spray isopropyl underneath the battery and then grab the strips with tweezers, but I was still ok. I can see why it’s recommended to detach the screen assembly, but if you rubberband it to a stable support and are careful not to jerk the lower case, it’s possible to accomplish the repair while skipping several steps.

    eswecker - Réponse

  19. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Haut-parleur: étape 19, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Haut-parleur: étape 19, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter le câble du connecteur de charge Lightning et dépliez-le pour l'écarter du haut-parleur.

    My new part with the lightning connector did not have a foam backer. I carefully removed the one from the old part and used a small dab of glue with a toothpick to place it. I wasn't very careful and ended up tearing the foam, but I glued the pieces on, essentially reassembling them again.

    xtophr - Réponse

    I bought a replacement part from iFixit due to the lightning port was not working properly and followed this guide. Up until replacing the antenna cable. I admit one part is my fault, i was looking properly and i was trying to push it in to the screw hole next to the original antenna connector and i think i may have damaged it. I put it in the correct connector and it found my carrier but with only a low signal, one or two bars sometimes no service. I tried to make a call but it instantly said call failed after a few minutes i was able to make a call. I asked them to call me back which it did call on their phone but no activity on mine so it just went straight to voicemail. I replaced the old part and the phone worked good as new other than the doggy lightning port. So i put it down to me damaging the antenna connector. So i brought a new one from amazon as the part was now out of stock on iFixit. i followed the same steps and put the antenna in the correct place with no force and still having a problem.

    brandonf08 - Réponse

    When I had to replace my Lightning Connector, the single most difficult part was reseating the antenna connector and re-installing the microphone! They are TINY, and poor alignment of either is bad!

    Kurt - Réponse

  20. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 20, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 20, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever le câble connecteur de l'antenne de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    it is a pain to disconnect and reconnect, it is one of the longest parts for me

    James - Réponse

    You may find it easier to leave the bracket on the speaker housing and just slip the wire out of the bracket. Then as you put things back together, attach the connector before slipping the wire back in to the bracket as you will have more slack this way for connecting it up

    phonesurgeon -

    It is easier to disconnect it later, when the speaker is removed.

    Reconnect takes a little time and patience ;-)

    Tom Long -

    My new part with the antenna wire did not have a foam backer. I carefully removed the one from the old part and used a small dab of glue with a toothpick to place it.

    xtophr - Réponse

    It took me quite some time both to disconnect and reconnect. I actually don't know how I got it to finally reconnect. Maybe I was overly worried about bending it, took me about a half hour.

    Ian Deshotels - Réponse

    Same thing here. Reconnecting the antennae was the hardest part of the job, but i finally got her.

    JOHN MANO -

    Did I bork my connector? http://imgur.com/a/iqX5I - after reading these comments on reconnecting, I think I'm just eye fatigued, but I can't get that %#*@ connector back on there again....

    keimel - Réponse

    This step was the longest for me, too. Getting it off wasn't so bad, but reconnecting took me about 20 or 30 minutes. I was using the curved tweezers to hold the wire and the flat end of the spudger to press the connector down. Be patient, it will take a while unless you get lucky lining it up just so. Make sure it goes down flat and square. It doesn't take a lot of pressure, but I didn't feel any noticeable "click". But I did feel it going on correctly when I finally got all the planets to align.

    Todd - Réponse

    The antenna reconnection is the most difficult step. I spent 2 hours last night just trying to reconnect it. In fact I gave up and moved the iPhone to a safe area to attempt again in the morning. But then I tried one last time and success, somehow. My success: started by putting the wire side of the connector down (lower left) and then rocked up and right with the flat end of the spudger. It kind of rocked into place with an audible click.

    Big picture: You've got to read all the comments before beginning the repair. There's gold in here!

    James Logsdon - Réponse

    I've been trying for over an hour to get the antenna connector back without success. Have the speaker out and may try it with the speaker in... very frustrating.

    After getting ready to give up making the antenna connection, I tried the old antenna connection and it popped onto place on the first try. Then tried the new connection and it popped into place on first try. Maybe something misaligned, old connector maybe helped realign so new connector now worked. Everything back together and working perfectly.

    Gary Menszyk - Réponse

    Repair went well. However, when I reconnected, i had no service and it did the "1x" that was very frustrating. Brand new parts but they didnt work quite right???

    Charles NElson - Réponse

    Could not get the new connector on. Then it snapped off the cable. I cut the old cable at about 1/4” from the end and stripped a bit. It went right on. Just soldered the wire to the broken end. Fingers crossed!

    Ron Gustavson - Réponse

    Hey Ron did this work for you? I pulled my wire out from the connector

    Daren Stahl -

    Reconnection proved to be very hard for me as well. I found it easier to see the two parts lining up if I positioned the phone so I could look from low down on the SIM side (I had to use a magnifier). I also found that lining up and pushing them in was easier with tweezers rather than a spudger, which seemed to move around too much.

    Matt Smith - Réponse

    Same issue as @cnelly111 — No service and 1x everywhere I go after replacing the lightning connector assembly (has an antenna on it). Very disappointing. Going to disassemble and try reattaching it…

    Gabriel Medina-Kim - Réponse

    Did you ever get it to work? Just did mine and having the same problem, worried that I’ll have to take it all apart again.

    Ian Donnelly -

    Reconnection was a challenging part of this guide. To help, I left the antenna cable free from the cable clip until I had reconnected it. In one hand I used the tweezers to hold the antenna connector in roughly the right place above the socket on the board and used the tip of the spudger to gently press it into place. It took me no longer than 5 minutes to get it connected. However, others have had to persevere longer, to be patient and don’t force it. It will go on!

    Afterwards I carefully removed the small foam pad from on top of the old antenna and used a tiny square of double-sided tape to attach it to the new antenna. Others have successfully used glue.

    graemebagnall - Réponse

    Watched a video online and the guy used his finger to click the antenna back on. I did the same and managed to get it in a couple of minutes.

    cambo.robertson - Réponse

    I’ve spent over two hours trying to get that antenna connector back on but just can’t do it. Any ideas other than what’s been suggested above?

    Thomas Scherer - Réponse

    @theredhots Hold the wire with tweezers, position the connector dead center over the socket, and press it down with the flat end of your spudger so it clicks into place. That’s it. It can help to rock the spudger back and forth just slightly as you apply pressure to help get it seated. If you’ve got it centered correctly, it’ll snap down into place without too much fuss. Plenty of light and a magnifying glass helps too. Once you get the hang of it you’ll be doing them in seconds, but they can be a bit frustrating at first. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    does anyone know what anntena it is?

    Peng Yang - Réponse

    I finally got it on using tweezers and the sponger…took about 10 frustrating minures…

    billkaris - Réponse

  21. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 21, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes qui sécurisent le haut-parleur :

    • deux vis 2,9 mm

    • deux vis 2,3 mm

    000 screwdriver, not 00 (at least for my iPhone 6 first shipment).

    Tom Long - Réponse

  22. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 22, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 22, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser le clip du câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne hors de l'emplacement du haut-parleur.

    If you're replacing with a new lightning cord/headphone jack unit, this little antenna interconnect cable clip may need to be moved over to the new part.

    Smile Productions - Réponse

    Hi is there a specific name for this antenna I have lost mine and need a replacement

    David wardill - Réponse

    I'm not sure whether you can buy it separately, but you can get it as part of the Lightning connector assembly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Yes, they should add that as a step to move the connector over to the new cable. I think putting the antenna cable clip ( large hole side in on the bottom side) into the speaker before connecting the cable is easier. then snap the cable into it.

    kevinmathieu - Réponse

  23. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 23, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 23, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 23, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour décoller le haut-parleur du boîtier.

    • Retirez le haut-parleur de l'iPhone.

    Is the process completed ?

    If i remove the speaker , then what eals ? I need to fix the speaker?

    Ali - Réponse

    If all you need to do is replace the speaker, then this should be your last step.

    mcr4u2 - Réponse

    When reassembling, I recommend putting the antenna on its attachment before putting the speaker back on. That little antenna bugger is tough to reconnect and there is more room before the speaker is back on. Also, notice the funny little bracket that the screw goes through close to the battery. If you replaced the entire assembly you have to take it off the original assembly and slide it into the side of the speaker before you put the speaker on. Then snap the antenna into bracket after the speaker is on.

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

    If you’re planning to keep and reinstall the speaker, one option that I found simpler was to just snap the antenna cable out of its clip and leave the clip in place on the speaker. Fold the antenna cable out of the way, and just snap it back in after the speaker is reinstalled, making sure the cable follows its groove in the upper left corner of the speaker.

    Bonnie Baxter - Réponse

    Please note that distorted sound from this speaker might also be an indication that the grille is blocked. In that case, follow this guide and use IPA and a bristled tool or compressed air from the inside of the phone to clear the holes.

    gregor - Réponse

    What if I snapped the antenna cable by accident

    joe igneczi - Réponse

  24. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6, Connecteur de charge Lightning complet: étape 24, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 1,6 mm qui sécurisent le vibreur au boîtier.

    If you are experiencing cellular signal issues, take note. The antenna cable here has a housing clip that is supposed to be soldiered. If you dropped your phone and/or had your broken screen replaced its very possible the this clip is loose and not getting full metal to metal contact. This is why you see so many people seeing success with the "drop the phone" method and their signal is restored. I weighed soldering this joint but found I was able to make a solid joint with the force of tweezers clamping it down.

    Aaron - Réponse

    000 screwdriver, not 00 (at least for my iPhone 6 first shipment).

    Tom Long - Réponse

    after reassembling of charging cable on my iPhone 6 vibrator’s signal became very subtle (almost disappeared). Do you have some ideas how to fix it? Vibrator worked fine before changing this flex module (charging cable, mic and 3.5 headphones jack).

    Oleg - Réponse

  25. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 25, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 25, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez le vibreur de l'iPhone.

    In my experience the vibrator after all the step vibrate with very very low intensity.

    gianfrancogargano - Réponse

  26. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 26, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 3,1 mm qui sécurisent la fixation du port Lightning.

    000 screwdriver, not 00 (at least for my iPhone 6 first shipment).

    Tom Long - Réponse

    Tom Long — smart!

    Jon - Réponse

  27. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 27, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 27, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez la fixation du port Lightning.

    If the Lightning port retaining bracket gets lost, I'm assuming the phone won't function properly without it. Can anyone affirm this?

    Sarah Yates - Réponse

    When reassembling, ensure that the oval cutout in the ribbon cable fits around the double screw post to the right of the vibrator before tightening down the microphone brace.

    Steve Wechsler - Réponse

  28. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 28, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez la vis à épaulement cruciforme #00 de 3,6 mm de la fixation du microphone.

    000 screwdriver, not 00 (at least for my iPhone 6 first shipment).

    Tom Long - Réponse

    Tom Long is correct. PH #000 worked for me.

    Apoorva Korde - Réponse

  29. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 29, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 29, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez la fixation du microphone.

    be careful when realigning the microphone and brace as if not properly square - microphone sounds muffled. So check before you reassemble.

    Donna Burton - Réponse

    This was very difficult to reassemble. It didn’t seem like I could get the screw aligned with its hole. Finally did and now it appears that the microphone is totally muffled between the brace and the bumper that was difficult to deal with in the last step. Seems to match the picture so I hope that is OK.

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

  30. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 30, image 1 de 1
    • Enlevez les six vis cruciformes #00 restantes du connecteur Lightning :

    • Deux vis à épaulement de 3,1 mm

    • Deux vis de 1,7 mm

    • Deux vis de 1,5 mm

    000 screwdriver, not 00 (at least for my iPhone 6 first shipment).

    Tom Long - Réponse

    The two yellow (1.5 mm) screws were PH000. The other 4 worked with PH 00.

    David Ham - Réponse

    dropped both the yellow screws i see 1.5mm what is the other dimension. need to know for replacement

    John Paul Logan - Réponse

  31. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 31, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 31, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 31, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour commencer à décoller le connecteur Lightning du boîtier.

    Probably extremely strong glue. Some heat should help.

    Sash - Réponse

    Mind ended up ripping, heat may of prevented this. Wonder if some heat would of made it so I didn't have to scrape as much residue off. I wasn't sure but it seemed like more of this goldish to metal connection is desirable, so I tried to take as much of the old stuff off as possible.

    Ian Deshotels - Réponse

    I don't have a hairdryer or other heat gun but I put a sheet pan in the oven. I heated it to the lowest setting (170F) on my oven. When hot, it took it out, turned it upside down and waited until the pan was able to be handled by my bare hands. Only at that point did I lay the open phone on it. It was enough to soften the glue. NOTE: I DID NOT PUT THE PHONE IN THE OVEN. It worked great.

    Kent Walker - Réponse

    Heat is recommended as its stuck down good.

    lowestseries - Réponse

  32. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 32, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 32, image 2 de 2
    • Poussez délicatement le connecteur Lightning pour le séparer légèrement de la reliure à vis du vibreur et du haut-parleur.

    When replacing the new port, create a beveled fold as seen in the original. Otherwise the connector won’t lie perfectly flat pushing up the speaker and causing the screen to be elevated.

    Stephen - Réponse

  33. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 33, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 33, image 2 de 2
    • Insérez le bout plat d'un spudger sous l'ensemble du côté du connecteur Lightning pour faire levier et décoller plus d'adhésif.

  34. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 34, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 34, image 2 de 2
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser hors de sa cavité dans le boîtier la partie du connecteur Lightning où se rattache le microphone.

    The microphone portion of the lightning connector has a small black piece attached. My replacement part from iFixit did not have that or the adhesive required to reattach it. I just kind of wedged it in there but now people have trouble hearing me. I will probably have to take it apart again and find a way to secure it better.

    monroejosh - Réponse

    Did you have any luck with this? I had the same exact problem. Also the phone is dropping calls and not connecting calls all the time. I struggled getting the antenna connected but finally it snapped in firmly and I thought it was good to go.

    stanos1 -

    I had the same problem

    michaelwhitley - Réponse

    My parts come with adhesive on the back of the flex where the microphone is. It is worth adding that the black bumper beneath the microphone is part of the microphone assembly and should be taken off the old flex and attached to the new one. The bumper that is screwed down above the microphone should hold it securely in place against the bottom one, but obviously if your flex doesn't come with adhesive on that particular area you will need some double sided tape or something similar to hold them together

    phonesurgeon - Réponse

    Looks like this is where I may have gone astray on reassembly. Symptom is microphone only works with Siri and in speakerphone. Turns out there are three. So the bottom one is need for phone calls. Almost there - will pull apart again and see I can clean up the mic install.

    adamcfrench - Réponse

    My lighting cable assembly microphone cable did have adhesive. The guide should be enhanced to explain that the plastic insert is connected to the cable with adhesive and should be transferred to the replacement assembly.

    Rainer Otto - Réponse

    When you try and insert the new part (assembly) the mic may prevent you from sliding the assembly in, until you realize that the mic needs to BEND a little - to a 90 degree angle, before the assembly will fit.

    keimel - Réponse

    The grey charger port fits against a black brace that you can vaguely see in this picture, I am missing that piece currently. Does anyone know where I could possibly get it?

    e.prescott96 - Réponse

    Is there a way to order the plastic part that’s glued under the microphone? (not the brace above, the one glued under) Forgot to retrieve it from the previous one…

    Julien - Réponse

    You may need to search eBay for a badly damaged (and therefore cheap) and/or iCloud-locked iPhone 6, or even just an iPhone 6 back case, and use it as a donor for this part, unless you can improvise something from some other random piece of plastic, and you find that the plastic part is essential.

    Bonnie Baxter -

    I carefully pried out the bumper, separated it from the old assembly and then lightly glued it back in with a minimal amount of Elmer’s glue. It took some patience to get the tiny pin in the bumper to go into the tiny hole in the back of the area where it was to fit. Also FWIW, I tore the backing of the assembly early on but figured I was replacing it so no big deal. I think it can be done without heat but you have to look and relook at the appearance to know where-all to pry up slowly.

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

  35. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 35, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 35, image 2 de 2
    • Faites glisser doucement la pointe d'un spudger en dessous de l'ensemble, entre le connecteur Lightning et la prise jack pour le décoller de l'adhésif restant.

  36. Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 36, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 36, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6: étape 36, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire sortir la prise jack de sa cavité dans le boîtier.

    • Retirez le connecteur Lightning complet de l'iPhone.

    • Avant d'installer ou de remplacer le connecteur Lightning complet :

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour enlever tous les résidus d'adhésif de la coque arrière derrière la nappe.

    • Observez attentivement la pièce de remplacement et la nappe d'origine pour être certain qu'ils correspondent. Des composants pourraient manquer sur votre connecteur Lightning de remplacement. Il faut alors les transférer depuis l'original.

    • Habituellement, les composants qui doivent être transférés sont la prise jack, le cache du microphone et le clip de connexion des antennes.

    The uFL (antenna) connector can be difficult to line up and get reconnected

    kevdougful - Réponse

    I agree. I found it much easier to attach it before slipping the wire back into the holder in the bracket as you have more slack to play with. Or if the wire was removed still in the bracket from the speaker housing as the guide says, it would be easier to reattach the connector before screwing the bracket back down (again, more slack)

    phonesurgeon - Réponse

    Re: difficult antenna attachment — Sliding pressure from left to right, instead of straight down, seemed helpful. Although, I may have gotten lucky after trying to attach for about 30 minutes (!!!). Loosening the 2.9 mm screw holding the bracket seemed to better my chances for sure. Thanks!

    James Collins -

    why is it nec to remove the digitizer from the phone. as long as its propped up and not putting stress on the ribbon cables?

    gocaps25 - Réponse

    It's not strictly necessary, but it's probably easier in the long run and less likely to cause accidental damage.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    also, dont forget to pull the black gasket from the old headphone jack and put on the new headphone jack.

    gocaps25 - Réponse

    My (loud) speaker isnt working after replacing the connector. What could I have done wrong? Can it be broken?

    Bilal Oruc - Réponse

    I just swapped lighting connectors on two Iphone 6’s and as a result both speakers are not working… ugh

    Aaron Roberts -

    I completed the repair and the phone is almost working. EVERYTHING is working fine but if I try to talk on it, no one can hear me unless I plug in the earbuds. I did carefully check the microphone and the black gasket but it still didn't work. Text works, voice over earbuds works fine. I know that after reading some other comments, the microphone may not be positioned correctly but for me... this is not a problem. I only wanted to get to the iPhone 8. I rarely use the phone for voice anyway. If I have to use the earbuds to talk on it, I am OK with that. I don't want to risk opening it again and possibly making things worse. I know for some, this would not be workable, but it is for me. Thanks to iFixit... I didn't have to buy a replacement iPhone 6 at this time. It is charging, and I have tested most things and thus, if it will get me to the upgrade (whenever that elusive iPhone 8 comes out) it was a success.

    Kent Walker - Réponse

    The speakerphone should also work—it uses a microphone near the top of the phone.

    Bonnie Baxter -

    Ok..so I did this and everything seems to be working fine except now I get no signal when I'm inside. I keep getting a "no service" message. Did I muck up the antennae? anyone able to provide a clue?

    gerard thai - Réponse

    I had to transfer the headphone jack gasket, the rubber mic cover and the antenna interconnect clip from the outgoing assembly, exactly as per the guide. It would perhaps be better if this information was incorporated into the dismantling steps instead of an additional comment at the end. I’m not experienced in repairing electronics, but didn’t find this procedure ‘difficult’, as iFixit call it. Rather there are just a significant number of steps involved and you have to be committed, methodical and organised with the strip-down so that the reassembly is straightforward. The right tools were also a big help.

    I combined the replacement of the lightning connector assembly with a new battery (and replacing the pentalobe screws with the Liberation Kit) and it all worked perfectly.

    graemebagnall - Réponse

    Remove the blue tape covering the adhesive on the back of the flex-board carefully - in my case it was adhering more to the tape than to the flex-board.

    Colin Lacey - Réponse

    Just a heads up, I did the repair without removing the screen, just carefully opened it and laid it back. I did however remove the battery cable before I did anything further. Saved a bunch of time by starting at step 20 (after the battery cable). Hope this helps.

    chris - Réponse

    When replacing the kit, make sure not to touch the connecting points for the speaker, which are on the top part of the kit. Moreover, make sure to align the connecting points as far right as you can (there should be some space visible between the whole for the screw where the antenna is clipped in and the black vinyl of the kit. I did this wrong on the first attempt and the speaker was thus not working (iPhone restarted automatically when trying to play a sound).

    Hendrik Viets - Réponse

    Replacement went smoothly, except now my headphone sound is wacky - is either very quiet or totally blown out. Speaker works fine. Any idea what might be broken or not properly connected to cause this? Or could it be an issue with the replacement part?

    Ben Pontius - Réponse

    If the issue persists after troubleshooting, be sure to contact Customer Support for a potential warranty replacement.

    Cooper -

    Well ... I followed all the steps and everything is working excellent, except now the fingerprint reader of the Touch ID is not running, I press the touch and it works, but not the fingerprint reader and I did not change it, it throws me an error when turning on the computer "could not activate Touch ID on this iPhone". I do not know happened? Someone able to give a clue?

    ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

    Bien... Seguí todos los pasos y todo está funcionando excelente, excepto que ahora no anda el lector de huellas del Touch ID, apreto el touch y funciona, pero no el lector de huellas y no lo cambié, me arroja un error al encender el equipo "no se ha podido activar Touch ID en este iPhone". ¿No sé qué sucedió? ¿Alguien capaz de dar una pista?

    Lerchundi Damián - Réponse

    Exactly the same with me (I’m not sure it happened immediately after repairing): I will try to clean the home button like @decker5 and let you know…

    Jean Orloff -

    Had the same thing- I disconnected the home button cable, cleaned it, and reconnected and it came back. Be sure all connections are solid

    decker5 - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.

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135 commentaires

It isn't necessary to remove the screen as long as you can support it properly while doing the rest of the work. In my experience, unnecessarily removing screens can do more harm than good and causes extra work for yourself

phonesurgeon - Réponse

I was trying to find exactly this message. Thanks!

Emilio Zaidman -

I agree with this comment. If you can support it, don’t disconnect the screen connectors. I took the screen off and had two vertical white lines on my display when I was finished. I had to re-seat the connector multiple times to get the problem to go away. It’s working great now.

deshave -

Just completed this in about an hour. Follow the steps slowly and closely, then power cycle your device at the end. BAM you're done before you know!

djhergs - Réponse

I changed the charge port on an iphone 6. Apple diagnose the charge port not working to the owner of this iPhone. Now that its changed the phone still wont turn on. It doesnt even show the battery icon that it needs to be charged. What is a most likely scenario for this? Is it a bad LCD? A bad Battery? Someone help me.

Jose Lopez - Réponse

im having the same problem also replaced battery and charging port, phone does nothing

ocvilla -

Same issue some one knows what to do, just double checked everything and it’s not working

rrhhmmtt -

It could be the Tristar chip. Search YouTube for iPadRehab channel and watch a few of the Tristar or not charging videos to see why it may be the case.

This part can die when using non-genuine mains charger and/or non-genuine cable due to not filtering spikes on the charging lines if I remember right.

infiniti25 -

If your microphone isn't working , check to see that the double stick tape is not blocking its input. Obviously the microphone needs airflow to get it to respond to anything, and as it came from ifixit, the adhesive tape was not perforated, so no "signal" was reaching the microphone. Consequently nobody could hear me on the phone. Since the iPhone already has the microphone brace, I just removed the double stick tape that was included on the back of the new microphone, made sure the microphone was centered on its rubber housing and post, then pressed the brace tightly against the microphone with tweezers while I screwed it down. I had called myself using google voice to aid in troubleshooting the microphone, and that horrible echo feedback (aka alien-whale-sex noise) you get when you put the phone up the computer's speakers signalled that the microphone was now picking up its surroundings. Hooray! Despite my minor difficulties, I'm still blown away with the stuff you can get from Ifixit. Thanks! DW

dave white - Réponse

After connecting all worked except microphone during normal phone mode. Turns out both Siri and speaker phone mode use different microphone. Suspect it may have been the adhesive on the small piece connected tot he mic. Will tear down again and take a closer look at the microphone setup.

adamcfrench - Réponse

Any luck there Adam?

Ortenga -

Finished the repair but now my speaker isn't working properly. The volume works up to about 50% (but sounds dimmer than usual). By about 60% the speaker cuts out and stops working. Any thoughts what this could be? I took it apart again and reseated the speaker but no luck.

ginkos - Réponse

Did you re-use the little connector bracket which connects the antenna cable to the speaker casting? I did not do that in the fist place and had to re-install it afterwards. After that the speaker was working fine. Maybe your antenna cable is touching the speaker part just a little bit?

Alex G -

So question...my phone recently acquired some water damage. It won't hold a charge, the charge icon is missing on the main screen and there is a little bit of damage on the screen in that it appears like slightly smudged lines under the screen. What is the best recommendation for fixing all of these issues. I had thought at first just replace the battery but now it appears as though the best option is to replace the lightening port. I guess I'm just looking for some advice/confirmation before I begin!

Jessica Harville - Réponse

Just finished and glad to see my Phone working flawlessly again. Thanks for the awesome guide.

One thing not in the instructions - Be sure to check the old assembly for the small black rectangular bracket/setting for the mic and the super thin black gasket looking piece that goes around the headphone jack before discarding the old assembly. If you don't, your mic will likely be loose and not sit in the recess properly when you re-assemble.

Brian C - Réponse

After having done this guide I now got a problem: When I plug in my phone it shows me the charging battery symbol but isn't really charging because no matter how long I wait the phone can't be turned on. Also it's even too empty now to show the battery loading animation anymore.

What do the upper gold pins from the lightning connector unit do?

Sebastian Pini - Réponse

PLEASE tell me this problem got solved. I just ran into it myself.

Brett Anderson -

Microphone was distant sounding and muddy. Upon disassembly it appears the adhesive that holds the screen in place between the microphone and housing had liquefied a bit and spread out to the point that it was covering the entire screen (may have liquefied from cleaning it externally with alcohol over a couple of years). I peeled the adhesive off from the half of the screen that goes over the hole in the housing and left a bit on the end to hold it in place. The microphone is loud and clear now with no money spent on parts.

Scott Bellamy - Réponse

Had an issue with the charging port not working, used the walkthrough, within an hour the issue was fixed and I had power again!

2 hours later my phone started to drop out to 'no service'. Would then come on to my home network with 1-2 bars of service, but all calls and texts fail???

I assumed that it was the bottom antenna next to the battery that was the issue, as when I was reassembling the phone, I found that extremely difficult to click in place, I shook my phone and could here something rattling inside so I guessed it was the antenna.

Took the phone apart a few times to fix it, after my third attempt im positive the antenna has clicked in place. But still I have the issue of calls failing and texts not sending. I thought if the antenna was not connected properly then I wouldn't connect to O2 at all?

Maybe worth mentioning, theres a screw missing from the cover for the screen connectors? surely that wouldn't be an issue?

My SIM works in an Android phone, so I'm ruling out a network failure.

Jonathan Lewis - Réponse

I'm having this same issue Jonathan. Were you able to find a fix?

Jacob Hall -

Same thing is happening to me. Says 1x a lot. I have Verizon but I feel like I now have metro pcs

max lundeen -

Hi Jacob, Jonathan and Max,

I am facing the same issue: did you find any solution ?

Thanks in advance for your help :)

Margaux

margox -

So if replacing this the unit still does not power on. What is the next logical part to troubleshoot?

Kheenan Halvorson - Réponse

Can I replace the lightening port itself on an iphone6 not the whole unit inc the flex and jack etc with IPhone 6plus lightening port?

David Foster - Réponse

That was one of the easiest fixes I have ever had and its marked Difficult. Ironically, the hardest fix to date was the lightning port on the 5s and that is marked moderate. That was far and above anything I have had to fix before and many missing steps. Even easier than the ipad mini! Just dont forget to compare parts or tape/foam covering old parts and replace on new parts.

gocaps25 - Réponse

Jonathan Lewis,

I've had the same problem as you; however, I'm not missing a screw. After replacing this item -- which is relatively easy -- I can no longer get a good cellular signal. Cellular connection frequently goes to 3g or 1x, and with only 2 bars, and calls/texts are dropped frequently. Calls/texts do work when connected via wifi, though.

-I properly used a grounding strap prior to working on the phone

-I'm certain the antenna was clicked into place completely

-I re-opened the phone to re-check connections, and they're good

My concern is that since the new part didn't come with new foam, I re-used the old foam for the connectors/antenna. The antenna foam piece was good, but the battery and lightning ribbon connectors have only partial foam on them now due to breakage during transfer. Perhaps this partial foam transfer is causing a grounding issue. I do wish that ifixit would offer replacement foam pieces for sale if they didn't come with the part.

Paul Briggs - Réponse

Paul, more likely some of the screws have not been done up too loosely or they are not grounding properly. There is quite a few screws in the iPhone design that are used as connectors for the ariels. Have another crack at it. That antenna connector is a really difficult piece to get connected, so although you are certain, double check it. Also make sure it is guided through the right channels, and not being crimped anywhere as that may be causing premature grounding. Best.

Ben -

I had my phone repaired at a local shop for a dodgy aux port. They replaced this part but I now have no signal whatsoever and the battery died extremely fast. The back gets really hot and to top it off the aux port is fuzzy and crap.

I went back and they replaced the part again turns out to be exactly the same. I got a refund but after looking into it it's far cheaper and easier to fix myself.

Before I start any tips or explainations to what my phone is doing?

Much appreciated.

iPhone 6s

Kieren - Réponse

Is the iPhone 6 connector assembly the same than for the iPhone 6S?

I can´t find one for my 6S...

Thank you for any advise

schmitgil - Réponse

No, the iPhone 6s is a slightly different assembly. I made the mistake of buying a 6s assembly for a 6 phone. Had to wait on repair while exchange part shipped! Got mine from Amazon.

Charlotte -

I changed the charging port reassembling it all again I do not work as the speaker!

help me!!!

michele casamassima - Réponse

Make sure you've used the right screws in the right holes for this. The speaker uses the screws for connectivity and may not be getting a signal if the screws are incorrect..

Ben -

hello, did you solve this problem? I am having exactly the same problem. should I change the screws?

anlergl -

My phone took a dunk in some water and now won't turn on. I changed the battery as well as the charging port. Still nothing. Any suggestions?

Jake Benton - Réponse

You may have fried the logic board. You'll probably need a new one. :(

Ben -

After replacing the lightning assembly, my phone is still having issues charging. It will charge when the power is turned off, but once the phone is turned on, it stops charging and is not recognized when plugged into the computer, either. Any suggestions?

ajf1994 - Réponse

I got exactly the same issue. During the "operation", i spent a lot of time trying to plug properly the antenna plug to the motherboard. They were not fitting perfectly and i had to "force" the pluging. Now my phone is not charging correctly anymore (24h for a 100% charge). And I can't synchronise with my MBP neither, the data are not going throw my lighting (test with a brand new original iPhone cable...). What a mess...

Claudie Vector -

Took me about 1,5h to complete this and it seems to have solved my charging issues.

Ben Rexwinkel - Réponse

I completed this repair in about 20 minutes, little bit of difficulty getting the digitiser connector to go in, but thats just the design of the phone and connector. Great job on the guide!

Ben - Réponse

After replacing the lightning connector assembly I do not get very good signal strength. Everything else works fine and fixed my charge/earphone jack problems. My signal strength is very intermittent switching between 3G and 4G and seldom make calls. I'm guessing this would relate to the antenna connector which I have disconnected and reconnected several times, checked all the screws to make sure they are tight and in correctly around the case. It seems to be a common problem when replacing this part, any suggestions on how to fix the antenna problem?

a) try another part?

b) reinstall the old part?

c) could it be from opening the case?

d) I have no idea...

By the way the guide was really good! Thank you.

taylzee - Réponse

Update - reinstalled old part and it worked fine. Faulty part and getting refund. Will buy from a different seller with guaranteed genuine OEM part.

taylzee -

Same problem as Jonathan Lewis, Paul Briggs, Kieren and Taylzee here.

I installed the lightning connector assembly 3 days ago, everything went pretty smooth.

Like so many others it took me a while to get the antenna connector back in but that worked eventually with a bit of patience.

Now I notice the same symptoms as the people above wrote, weak signal strength and failed calls, over and over again.

I checked and re-checked everything by the way, all screws are properly in place and the antenna is clicked on.

Taylzee, did you get your lightning connector assembly from iFixit? I'll see if I can get a refund or a replacement part.

Ortenga - Réponse

I contacted iFixit and explained the situation. They replied quickly and sent me a new part with a quick delivery method. Thumbs up for their customer service.

I have yet to replace the faulty with the new part but will post an update once done.

Ortenga -

I bought the first one off eBay from Sydney and got a refund no questions asked. I bought a second one from the USA which their photos of the part were exactly like the original part, Apple symbol and part number, yet receiving the part it is the same as the first one I bought (JBL meks 121437). I am in the process of another refund.

After hours of trying to diagnose the where the signal transmission drop is coming from I gave up, it seems to be around the lower part of the case for me. When the screen is partially opened and still connected at the top (case to case) it seems to work better but not 100%. Could be just coincidence as reinstalling the old part with the phone in two halves worked fine.

Batch of $@$* parts? Could be, I am open to suggestions.

taylzee -

I'm experiencing the same problem here. After replacing the lightning assembly connector, I'm experiencing signal drop, call and message failure. Did you replace the part ? Did it fix the problem ?

Thanks for your feedback

Nicolas Rouvière -

I tried two replacement parts from iFixit: both defective (low signal or no signal, dropped calls, the works).

Never had problems with their stuff before (I am an ACMT, use iFixit parts A LOT for OOW repairs).

I am very disappointed.

Enrico -

I am having the same issue replaced the lightning connector twice, and calls are dropping (call failed) and people cant always call me , i put the original lightning cable back and the signal is fine? has anyone found a fix?

Dan -

Hey guys!

Same problem here. I haven't tried putting the original part back again, but double checked the connection and everything looks fine. However, I do have low signal in part of the house where I used to have better. And another iPhone 6 has better signal than mine. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Emilio Zaidman -

I’ve had the same issue as above… opened it back up twice to play around with any parts that are related to the antenna.

My latest theory though, is related to the sticky contact area beneath the whole assembly that is inserted…

When I removed the old assembly, I noticed there was some residue sticky gunk still left on the inside of the phone.

My first thought was to clean it, but I didn’t read anything about the adhesive in the guide, so I decided to be lazy leave it.

I got out the old part and a multimeter, and the back of the assembly does indeed connect to the antenna cable.

So I think I need to get myself another assembly, take out the current one and give the bottom of the case a good clean.

That way the assembly will have a better connection with the outer metal case of the phone.

Nick Cellini -

Fantastic guide. Finished in about 1.5 hours. My charging port was faulty. Used this to replace it. One thing I recommend to not lose screws is take a white sheet of paper and draw a rough diagram with the step number and positions of each individual screw. After removing the screw, tape it down so it will not get lost. Saves a lot of trouble trying to figure out which screw is which. See link for my diagram http://imgur.com/u32hUmA

Another example https://www.technibble.com/the-cheapest-...

Stephan - Réponse

Oh my god, I totally did just this and it worked a charm. Fortunately for me, I had an old dodgy iphone 6 to do a test run on. During that test run I lost two screws and from that point on I was paranoid! Haha… Great minds think alike!! :-)

Matthew Young -

Excellent guide! My iPhone 6 had issues with both Lightning and headphone connectivity and I'm happy to say that both are fully functional and connect flawlessy now. Patience is key- if you try to rush through these repairs it's almost certainly going to lead to disappointment, but if you take your time, work in a well-lit area, and have the right organization and tools anyone can complete this repair.

Zach Ritchey - Réponse

This guide is comprehensive and very easy to follow. This isn't a job for the technically-inept, but it's simple enough for someone with reasonably good intuition and skills.

Jeff Rose - Réponse

About as good instructions as you can find; together with a few helpful comments I aced it in 45 min.

Many thanks to all involved.

Andrei Tudoran - Réponse

Loved using the magnetic mat from ifixit, really helped with this tear down. Some of the steps in reverse were more challenging, the comments really helped. some photos or videos might be nice for some of the more challenging steps like connected the antenna again? Thanks for the guide and the parts!

Ian Deshotels - Réponse

Did you have to buy all those parts or did just having the Lightning Connector and Headphone jack part suffice? Thanks in advance

Juan Rodriguez -

I was wondering if all these parts are needed to complete this repair, or can I just use the ones already in the device. The only part I bought was the iPhone 6 Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack. The ones below I have not bought, can i just use the originals?

iPhone 6 Lightning Connector Bracket

iPhone 6 Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket

iPhone 6 Battery Connector Bracket

iPhone 6 Microphone Brace

Juan Rodriguez - Réponse

Hi Juan, the parts listed are not a requirement for this guide. You could replace any of those parts by following this guide, but you only need to replace whichever one is broken in your unit. As long as you follow the guide carefully (and the phone doesn't have other secret issues) no other component should need replacing because of following the guide!

Sam Goldheart -

I'd like to add that the part you buy from IFixIT has some blue tape like stuff which has to be removed when you install the parts. This is not noted in the guide.

keimel - Réponse

The additional PDF file with the screw and part pieces was BEAUTIFUL - every guide should include it! So helpful!

keimel - Réponse

Hey, are all Iphone 6 components like this? I'm used to a different port/component in the southern areas of the US. Great tutorial, I'm just wondering.

Daniel - Réponse

Great guide! The one item I had an issue with was the piece referenced in step 35 (as of this writing, the step where the small plastic microphone piece gets removed from the phone housing).. This microphone assembly is glued to your old lightning connector cable and must be removed and transferred to the new one. There is only a pinhole (literally) that allows sound to pass from the plastic piece into the microphone cable, and those two parts need to be very precisely aligned before you press it onto the adhesive to reattach it... It took me several attempts to ensure the plastic microphone piece was properly aligned with the cable (pinhole-to-pinhole). Other than that, flawless.

bigguyyy - Réponse

Hello there i Got thar problem With my iPhone 6 its dead it Won't turn on it won't charge ive tryed with med batteri and Mew lightning Dock but its dead Can somebody help me what Can be wrong with it :/

knold_johansen - Réponse

I've got a very strange problem and I was wondering if anyone could help me. I've replaced the unit as above and now my microphone is acting strange. If I make a call the person on the other end can't hear me and I can only hear my own voice through my earpiece! (Feedback?) even if I mute the microphone I can still hear my own voice.

Any advice?

Dank Tales - Réponse

Great! I solved the charging problem.. before it was only able to charge with some cables, or switched off.. after buying a new charging dock by 10 euros and following this material, its solved!!!! (In an apple store they wanted me to pay 400 CHF)

Thanks a lot!!!!!!

Francisco S-Climent - Réponse

Hi there

just wondering if the foam used on the mic brackets is different from the foam used elsewhere. Is it designed to be acoustically transparent. I have an ebay phone and it had lots of bits missing as well as dodgy mic. I replaced the lightning connector assemble and while doing so realised the upper mic bracket was missing. I bought a new one but it came without foam. I can buy foam, pads but don't want to be insulating the mic.

Kevin Mackenzie - Réponse

Did no solve my charging issues. Phone wouldn't charge at all and still will not charge after replacing the part.

John Tran - Réponse

I purchased the part to replace a non working microphone.

A few notes to buyers:

1. some smaller parts (brackets, etc) must be switched over from the non-working part (i.e. antenna cable bracket)

2. no EMI foam on the top of the replacement part's antenna. That may or may not cause problems.

3. the replacement antenna connector is a VERY tight fit. Take maximum care when connecting it to avoid damage to the board.

4. last, but not least: The first part I received was defective. The microphone worked perfectly, but the antenna had SEVERE connection problems (no connection, dropped call, impossible to make or receive calls). I contacted iFixit and got a replacement. Unfortunately the replacement had the SAME EXACT problem. At that point, to exclude a mistake on my part (I am a trained Apple Technician, but you never know), I reinstalled the original part. Connection is again flawless. Returned the part and got a refund, had to contact a lawyer because iFixit is refusing compensation. Not good.

Enrico - Réponse

Followed this guide and everything worked as illustrated! Great step by step manual. Laid out my screws by each step and then simply reversed the steps putting it what together. Replaced the battery while I was in the phone.

Dustin Insell - Réponse

Hi, I replaced the lightning port assembly and now my iPhone 6 says I touch is not activated and headphone jack is not working. What could be the problem?

Christopher Melillo - Réponse

Just did this, I did not remove the screen as that seemed more difficult than it needed to be. Only took me an hour and I've never opened up a phone before. Somehow everything works perfectly. I bought the part from the ifixit store and I bought a tool kit on amazon for 7 bucks. Greats purchase.

Eric - Réponse

I'm buying a second spare part because the first one (from amazon) had signal problems with the antenna. The second one says "Apple Original spare" and doubles the price of the first. I will tell you later the result...

Alejandro Matias - Réponse

Hey! Any news? Did the new replacement work as expected? If so, could you share the link with me? I bought it on Amazon (less than US $8), but having the low signal issue now. Thanks!

Emilio Zaidman -

I've repaired iPhones several times for broken switches, home button, shattered screens, faulty batteries, etc. in the past and this was the hardest one I think I've ever done due to that antenna cable. Took me over half an hour but it magically fell into place unexpectedly and everything seems to be working great. I bought the replacement part from iFixit after seeing reviews from others who had problems with parts from eBay (my usual source). Works great. Thanks for a good guide.

Brian Sanders - Réponse

I did the above process and I am having the same issues with weak service. I tossed my old original part not knowing I needed to interconnect bracket off of it for the antenna. Could this be part of my problem? Does that bracket serve as a ground? And if so, can the bracket be purchased anywhere?

Adam Mccool - Réponse

Anyone having issues with the antenna, you can also try plugging the antenna before putting the speaker back. It was easier for me to do it like that. It took me 1hr 30min first time but everything works perfectly. There are two pieces (one of them is the antenna bracket) that the item doesn't bring so make sure to remove it from the original.

Algenis Feliz - Réponse

After replacing the charging port, I immediately realized the speaker no longer functions. Soon thereafter, I came to find out calls are very frequently dropped, while talking my voice goes in and out as well as the battery takes much longer to help. Advice much appreciated?

Jordan George - Réponse

I just replaced one I had bought on Amazon with the Ifixit replacement. I can pretty much hold 3G now, but get no LTE. Before with the Amazon part I could get LTE but would bounce back to 1X a lot. I have the antenna clip arriving today and will install, hoping this helps but not sure if that clip acts as some sort of ground or not.

Adam Mccool - Réponse

I have a problem with my mic being quiet and cutting out on calls. I have replaced the assembly and it seems fine when using voice memos although not as loud as when I try my old iPhone 5 . Any thoughts on what could be causing this low mic volume could it it be software related?

Have tried repositioning the mic several times m making sure it's seated properly etc. Driving me a bit nuts.

Kevin Mackenzie - Réponse

great tools, great instructions, great price, everything took an hour and works flawlessly!

Wesley French - Réponse

This is the most frustrating thing ever. Where can we get this part that preserves original signal connectivity?? I had the dock connector replaced by a shop, everything works OK except frequent drops to 1x or no service. I can still get LTE but it will switch to 1x without me moving. Airplane mode on and off will temporarily go to LTE. The shop says he has no advice. And of course every time I'm in there it says LTE. About to buy a new phone :-(

Marshall Montgomery - Réponse

I had the poor signal issue after using a part bought from Amazon. After a lot of fiddling around, I decided to replace original part and signal was fine again. I then bought a part online from 'replacebase' in the UK, fitted that and all works fine. So my experience was that it was a faulty part rather than anything subtle about how it was fitted.

MartinW - Réponse

OK, I spoke too soon, all works fine EXCEPT the battery percentage jumping around (e.g. suddenly going down from 54% to 1% - then on rebooting the phone it came back up as 33%). I have seen this problem before with a bad battery guage, and also with a bad charging IC, but I'm not sure whether a bad lightning port assembly could also cause this? I will have to start replacing things again to track down the problem...

MartinW - Réponse

any luck?

good luck! (i hope)

DVS -

Ok so I wanted to post about how I resolved this issue. I took out the "new" part from the shop and replaced it with a "working pull" from e-bay. The part I put in is an authentic Apple part. Unfortunately you can't buy these parts new anywhere because Apple doesn't sell them. My issue is now resolved! This also fixed the fast draining battery because it isn't constantly searching for signal.

Marshall Montgomery - Réponse

Worked perfectly! I didn't remove the screen for this repair and it doesn't seem to have been an issue. One point: reconnecting the antenna I found really difficult; spent the most time trying to get it reattached. Thanks!

john.lidwelldurnin - Réponse

So Basically This is identical to an iphone 6 plus, infact identical, except a few steps are in a different order, although those steps that are different can be performed in any order...

DVS - Réponse

After replacing this part I had trouble with the phone being stuck in headphone mode even when no headphone was plugged in. The symptom of this is that it won't play music through the speaker, and that phone calls only work in speakerphone mode. Also, when I used a headphone, the balance was off.

The solution was to clean out the headphone port with rubbing alcohol. I used 91% on a Q tip with almost all the cotton pulled off to make it small enough to fit. Once you dip it in alcohol, twirl the remaining cotton between your fingers to tame the strands and take off excess alcohol, then clean the headphone port. It may take a few times. My theory is there may be some film or dust from the factory coating the contacts in there that the alcohol removes?

acrain - Réponse

I replaced my headphone and lightning ports for just that reason. No amount of alcohol would clean it. Now I know why. Same problem after replacing the part.

Rocco N April -

Hey, just replaced my lightning connector assembly, and I now notice that the phone indicates it is charging without ever turning on. A couple of other people seem to have run into this problem, but nobody in this thread seems to have a solution. Please help, I cannot afford a new phone.

Brett Anderson - Réponse

@zifker hard to say without more details. You might want to try searching through existing iPhone 6 questions for something that matches your problem. If you're really stuck, post your question in more detail in our Answers forum—you'll have a better chance of getting help. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just finished this and now my ear speaker doesn't work, I have to put it on speaker phone to answer and make calls. How can I fix this?

Chad - Réponse

@ washburnbros Most likely answer is a loose connector or a damaged flex cable. Does your front camera work or is that out, too? The front camera and earpiece speaker are both fed by the same cable. Try reseating the connector in this step (making sure to disconnect the battery first). Check to make sure there's no dust/debris or bent pins in the connector socket. Check the attached flex cable to make sure it wasn't damaged. If you still have trouble, drop your post into Answers.

Jeff Suovanen -

Every step was perfect, thank you very much for this manual. Saved my phone.

diegotrujillor - Réponse

Great guide - two things I noticed though. The microphone is adhered to a black piece which was not present on the replacement component. You’ll have to remove this piece to reuse it. Secondly - the replacement antenna did not have the metal clip that screws into the speaker but it is easy to pull off of the old antenna. Other than that the repair went super smooth!

Theodore - Réponse

In my case after the repair the vibrator vibrate with very very low intensity… someone kwon why?

gianfrancogargano - Réponse

Went through the process. All seemed fine after installing. Then after my battery charged back to 100% the phone went black and died. I have no power. Connecting to computer shows the phone isn’t recognized so it isn’t a screen issue. Took the phone back apart and reconnected all of the connections listed in this guide…still no power at all

William Hines - Réponse

After completing the part replacement, I’m getting rubbish signal strength to the point where it wears down the battery trying to search for my mobile provider. Don’t bother with this replacement unless you absolutely have to. The part is sub-standard and actually makes your phone worse as a result. My time and my money wasted!!!

cathal - Réponse

Your indepth investigation into the cause of the degradation of your signal strength came to this conclusion did it? Or did you just ‘give the instructions a go’ and it didn’t work so it must be someone elses fault? So you did everything absolutely perfectly? You didn’t accidentally touch some metal to metal contact point thus contaminating the surface with oil/grease from your skin?

this is an absolute argument from ignorance if I have ever seen one!

Matthew Young -

Same problem here. Others had a similar result.

Jonathan Bodge -

I just replaced as per the steps and now Phone is dead. I tried a new screen and new battery and still nothing.

Richard - Réponse

My charging port started acting up in me so I decided to replace myself. Was pretty simple repair. I did no take display screen off as I didn’t feel I needed to and I was able to prop up next to something solid on my workstation that kept it up. Followed instructions and worked good I took a small paper plate n a pen and “carved” squares in it. Every step I did I put those parts in the square. Once I was done I just reversed everything square by square. Took about 30-40 min to begin and finish. I’m very happy with the results. The only two issues I had was the antenna wire took a little time to snap back in. One of the screwdriver heads wasn’t unscrewing some of the screws so I took my other parts kit I bought a while back with few more bits and found one to work. Other than that it was simple. I love doing this stuff. Thanks for reading.

Christopher Imhoff - Réponse

This guide is comprehensive and very easy to follow. The part was replace and the phone is funtioning normal except it is only the one of the two earphone pieces when plugged into the phone. Any idea why anyone?

ahageberg - Réponse

Awesome instructions!

I do this kind of stuff very often and it can be tricky. You even have a printable storage guide for the screws and removed components. Great job.

Probably the two trickiest parts was removing the connector cable without tearing it and swapping the little rubber piece for the microphone. I had to use a hairdryer to heat the back of the phone to get the connector cable removed. Swapping the rubber piece required a magnifier and with something to carefully wedge between the cable and the rubber piece.

It maybe obvious but it would be good to remind those on the reverse instructions to remove the covers over the sticky tape at the appropriate times.

Ross

Milpitas, CA

R Havens - Réponse

Awesome, you are the man.

My iPhone 6 was slightly different, the vibrator was longer and one of the screws which holds the speaker was hidden, but the steps worked for me just fine.

Doc Robin - Réponse

Before opening your phone when something seems wrong with the lightning connection, try to ‘undust’ it, by blowing it clean with air pressure, or, what I did, carefully insert a wooden toothpick to remove dust.

S.Blom - Réponse

Brutal, I did the full replacement like in 1h. Thank you very much!!!

Francisco S-Climent - Réponse

I tried and it didn’t work. ) =

[deleted] - Réponse

The part on the connection on Logic board is Brocken what is it called and can you replace it

kenno12 - Réponse

Excellent guide followed it by the book,took roughly 45 minutes to complete this everything going well.

Well done to the author of the guide,only thing that is a little bit tricky is the glue that apple use it is nothing short of a nuisance apart from that good.

Gerard Martin Stadalius - Réponse

I just recently replaced this assembly and it went really well. As long as you go through it carefully. This is the second replacement I have done: the first was a screen and digitizer assembly.

Jarom Bird - Réponse

This was my first iPhone repair, and it worked. The parts and lightning port assembly all worked well. A couple points I would add for my experience.

1: Getting the antenna back on was challenging, but patience pays off.

2: The adhesive from the original assembly was very hard to remove even with the smudger.

3: Do not drink coffee prior to doing this if it makes you shaky. These screws are tiny!

The guide was super helpful, the print out for screw placement was also helpful (though my fiance made a good suggestion which was to place the sheet of where to put the screws in the top of a box lid so that they dont accidentally fall out onto the carpet like mine did.)

All things considered, this was definitely hard but not impossible. If you take your time, you can do this.

Owen Wallace - Réponse

Comparing original Apple and aftermarket iPhone 6 charge port flex assembly.

Like many others have commented on IFIXIT’s forum and on IFIXIT’s iPhone 6 charge port repair guide, I had intermittent cell service and signal strength after replacing the charge port flex assembly. I purchased the part from an eBay supplier. The cell service would fluctuate between no service, searching, 1x, and LTE, but could rarely make calls. I concluded the part was defective, and had the same supplier provide another part. This one I installed with exactly the same result.

I decided to measure continuity between several of the case grounding areas of the flex assembly and the flex assembly’s outer conductor of the antenna connector wire. I did this on both the eBay part and the original Apple part, and found an interesting difference.

Refer to the link below for more extensive write-up and the findings.

Poor cell data signal after charging connector changed

Jon Nelson - Réponse

I did this complete repair and test in under 30 minutes. I bypassed the screen removal and just supported it properly. No issues afterwards. A few notes:

1. The adhesive on the original part is a pain to get off

2. The antenna is a pain to get back on

3. Take care not to press on the battery or you will be back looking for another guide

4. Line your parts and screws in the same position and order that you took them out. Speeds up reassembly exponentially.

5. Check the original part before you throw it away. There are at least 2 pieces that you may need from it.

6. Test the part before you put your pentalobes back in

I’m not a professional and I have shaky hands but this was quite easy. Thank you ifixit!!

Teeshia - Réponse

Excellent instructions, I replaced the battery as well. I concur with the comment about not taking off the screen if you can carefully avoid that. I did take the screen off and ended up not reconnecting it properly… had to redo to get snug fit. :-)

Roland Gustafsson - Réponse

Done this successfully. However, I had to go back and re-install the little connector on the antenna cable. It was missing on the replacement assembly. The speaker was not working without the connector bracket.

Others reported that problem as well, but I did not read all those comments.

It would be great for others to include that in the instructions. Right now it only mentions that you should should compare the replacement assembly with the old one and re-use any missing parts. Rather vague…

Alex G - Réponse

In this guide, the part you’re referring to is called an antenna interconnect clip. There’s a specific reminder in the last step to make sure you include it. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

Agree with Phonesurgon, no need to disconnect the screen if properly supported. The guide was great and the repair turned out perfect. Took about 45 minutes. Thanks for the great guide.

Mkopro97 - Réponse

So the good news is I got the charge port working! The bad news is in the process I accidentally screwed up the front camera, phone speaker (like at the top for phone calls) and bluetooth. The phone was going to need to be replaced anyway so I’d say it was a success. I must’ve messed up a connector when putting everything back together that screwed up the front camera. Be really careful with the little long skinny antennae.

Shannon Whitmer - Réponse

After the replacement, the lightning connector cannot be inserted in either direction. It works only when inserted in a certain direction. I tried it with different cables to make sure it’s not the cable at fault. Any else had this problem?

Alex G - Réponse

I presume using a white lightning port replacement on a phone with an existing black lightning port is fine?

The parts don’t identify themselves to the mainboard and be detected as a mismatch will they?

infiniti25 - Réponse

Very good tuturial, 1 hour and half past

to test if battery is charging i use :

- usb meter

- lighting to usb cable

If usb meter show voltage u can say the battery is charging, battery is ok

But, price of usb meter is same than battery or complete lcd,

docteur-pc - Réponse

I completed this repairs along with a display assembly and battery replacement. Doing all 3 together took about 1.75 hours. The key is to use a mat with labeled squares (Step# and screw size) for all of the removed parts and screws and keeping the screw of different sizes clearly separated. The major challenge I found was seating the new LC connected assembly into place while exposing the sections new adhesive. I ended up removing the backing and seating it in three sections. Thankfully all of the assembly is bolted down as well. My iPhone 6 now has a new display, new battery and charges properly due to the new LC connector. It is like having a new iPhone again! Thanks, IFixit.

John Pitts - Réponse

This guide was exactly what I needed! In an hour I had the entire repair done. I didn’t disconnect the screen, just kept it supported the whole time. Apple sure does make some tiny screws … I had to search a couple times for screws that went bouncing off the table when I tried to reinstall them. Maybe a slightly magnetic screwdriver would help, but then again maybe that isn’t a good idea for electronics.

Steve BEERCANMAN Gordon - Réponse

Thanks for the guide and the comments I went with not removing the screen but making sure it was well supported.

Richard Dixson - Réponse

Had no trouble at all following this guide, and the issues I had were fixed. Removing the film from the double sided tape on the replacement part was the only step not mentioned here, and the only step of the process I had any trouble with! For some reason the the double sided tape would cling to the film and tear no matter how careful I tried to be.

Walker Foster - Réponse

I’m a beginner and this really wasn’t too bad! I followed this video as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnX_KKJn...

The trickiest part was reconnecting the antenna cable cuz it’s so small and the microphone part since it has to bend at a 90 degree angle to be along the bottom of the frame of the phone. I don’t think I was able to get it quite right and my microphone seems a bit worse quality now because of it. That specific part was why I wish this guide had some tips for the reassembly instead of just saying “reverse the steps”. The video above shows the reassembly which is very helpful.

Just make sure you connect all the cables correctly! Gotta hear the two clicks! And keep track of all the screws! Good luck :))

Desmond Aron - Réponse

Work all very well, only tricky part was to fit in the new lighnign connector (cut out for screws seems to be smaller than original). Other than that very good and detailed descritpion and photos here ! Thanks a very lot !

Mario S - Réponse

Amazon has this part for a lot cheaper, but I don’t trust the quality of their iphone parts anymore . i bought a charging port for my iphone 4 some years back from Amazon because it was cheap and it gave me nothing but trouble. That’s why I went with ifixit this time when my iphone 6 wouldn’t charge. Cost a little more but everything works great now.

JOHN MANO - Réponse

I failed. Believe the other commenters that reattaching the antenna is hard. I was working The at it, and bent the connector one too many times and it broke. Bummer! I still don’t understand how that antenna connects. I would want a high power magnifying glass if I was going to try this again. I also found that removing the screen wasn’t really necessary. I taped it to the side of the box the part shipped in and it was secure. The other thing I did was tape all my screws to a paper with the drawings and steps labeled on it so I knew where all the screws went and I didn’t lose them.

peter nyboer - Réponse

Thank you very much for this tutorial! Thanks to it, I renewed my battery *and* my Lightning connector… and my iPhone 6 is working as if it was new. The operation wasn’t expensive at all and I can wait a little bit longer to buy a new phone. :)

I didn’t noticed the PDF guide for the screws but I made one myself and used some blu-tack to keep the screws in place. It worked fine for me and I did not have any issue while following this guide. (I started with the one for the battery replacement then switched to this one and it was perfect).

At last but not least, thank you (a lot) to iFixit for the parts and the (awesomely) fast delivery (in France)! The service is perfect from A to Z.

PS: for the antenna, I read the comments, took a deep breath and did as follow => with one hand, I placed the antenna connector in place (it looks like a target so it’s “easy” to center) then, once aligned, I pressed softly on it until I heard a “click”… and it was made in a minute or two. As for the rest of the process, it’s important to be patient, organized and keep its calm. (Of course, you should read and watch everything before your to proceed, at least the first time.)

Axel Egolf - Réponse

Excellent tutorial. I completed this in about an hour, along with a battery replacement, and it was seamless. A helpful tip would be to LOOK at the creases in the OEM part installed and match those creases in the replacement part, or else it won’t fit quite right.

Doran Baltus - Réponse

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Clara Mat - Réponse

Everything went well after installing a new lighting port, plugged charger in, made a call, talked for about 5 mins. then call dropped. Called back, had a brief conversation then call dropped. I can text but have no voice cell. Any ideas?

Antenna solidly on the the screw connection mid wire, rubber boot on top of antenna plug.

Jonathan Bodge - Réponse

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