Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel si le nouvel écran complet inclut l'ensemble caméra frontale et capteurs et la plaque de protection EMI de l'écran déjà pré-installés. Tout ce qu'il vous reste à faire, c'est de retirer l'ancien écran complet et de transférer le bouton home au nouvel écran complet.

Si votre écran de rechange n'inclut pas ces composants, suivez la version plus détaillée de ce tutoriel ici.

Dans les deux cas, il est important de transférer le bouton home d'origine au nouvel écran pour garder la fonction Touch ID (lecture par empreinte digitale).

Vous pouvez également utiliser ce tutoriel pour remplacer le support pour la nappe du panneau frontal complet.

Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.
  • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

  • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer son démontage.

  • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 3,4 mm situées au bord inférieur de l'iPhone, de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

Janet Monaghen - Réponse

@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

Jeff Suovanen -

It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

alexanderbrix1987 - Réponse

Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

Jeff Suovanen -

If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

Keith Hockenbeck - Réponse

L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.
  • L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.

  • Il est possible d'effectuer la réparation sans remplacer l'adhésif, et vous ne remarquerez probablement pas de différence dans les fonctionnalités.

  • Appliquez une ventouse sur le coin inférieur gauche de l´écran.

    • Prenez soin de ne pas placer la ventouse sur le bouton Home.

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - Réponse

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - Réponse

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - Réponse

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - Réponse

Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

Joe Koffee - Réponse

The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Mandy Ng - Réponse

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

Michael Magor - Réponse

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

jeffreyleung2002 - Réponse

  • Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l´aide d´un adhésif.

  • Tirer trop fort peut endommager l'écran. Appliquez juste assez de pression pour créer un petit espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - Réponse

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - Réponse

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - Réponse

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - Réponse

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - Réponse

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - Réponse

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - Réponse

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - Réponse

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

Jaredrett - Réponse

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - Réponse

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - Réponse

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - Réponse

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

Tyler Brady - Réponse

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

greghabiby - Réponse

Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

Carolann Parran - Réponse

Me too! Be gentle!

Matthew Simoenau -

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Eric Olson - Réponse

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

emaneht - Réponse

  • Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone.

  • Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.

WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

Jason - Réponse

If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - Réponse

  • Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

  • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Réponse

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

Kevin - Réponse

  • Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone.

  • Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.

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  • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.

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  • Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif.

  • Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois câbles qui peuvent se briser s'ils sont étirés.

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - Réponse

an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

Christa - Réponse

  • Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.

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  • Saisissez doucement l´écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière.

  • Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l´écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une canette de boisson fermé pour maintenir l'écran.

Smart idea :)

x226 - Réponse

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - Réponse

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - Réponse

  • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

lionno1 - Réponse

  • Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

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  • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - Réponse

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - Réponse

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - Réponse

  • Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.

If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

Edward Dziuk - Réponse

Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

Rajendra - Réponse

  • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes fixant le support de la nappe d'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 2,8 mm

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - Réponse

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - Réponse

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - Réponse

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - Réponse

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - Réponse

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - Réponse

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - Réponse

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - Réponse

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

mshary alzhrany - Réponse

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

Matthias Wagner - Réponse

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

Scott Young - Réponse

@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

Jeff Suovanen -

Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

Thomas Kintigh - Réponse

I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

Peter Bovey -

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

laffinbuz - Réponse

I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

Alex Mufatti - Réponse

  • Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran.

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  • Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter le câble plat flexible de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - Réponse

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - Réponse

  • Déconnectez la nappe du tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

  • Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe du tactile, n'appuyez pas sur le milieu du connecteur. Appuyez sur un côté du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Appuyer au milieu risque de tordre le composant et d'endommager le tactile.

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - Réponse

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - Réponse

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - Réponse

  • Avant d'effectuer cette étape, vérifiez que la batterie est déconnectée, puis déconnectez ou reconnectez la nappe.

  • Déconnectez la nappe des données d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - Réponse

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

Scott Young - Réponse

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Réponse

Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

Alex Tanner -

I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

Dennis Gagomiros - Réponse

You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

cellabella1 - Réponse

The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - Réponse

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - Réponse

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - Réponse

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - Réponse

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

Ben - Réponse

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

Joep Willemsen - Réponse

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

Christa - Réponse

  • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 1,7 mm fixant le support du bouton home.

  • Ne serrez pas trop ces vis car elles peuvent endommager l'avant de l'écran.

When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect. Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust.

amadscientist - Réponse

When reinstalling the screws be careful not to over tighten and strip the holes.

John Livingston - Réponse

INCOMPLETA

Manca tutta la parte che riguarda l’auricolare (altparlante o earpiece) che porta con se il rivelatore di prossimità e il microfono ambientale. Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. Manca la parte di separazione del touch controller dl backframe metallico (anch’esso da svitare e non menzionato in questo articolo…)

Insomma un tutorial incompleto e anche inutile, a mio avviso.

Mario Di Stefano - Réponse

When i assembled my new homebutton, I couldn’t mange to make it work properly. The screws, as described earlier, had to be adjusted but even this wasn’t enough. Once I put the iPhone case together and tightened up the screws it would push the metal cover all the way so the button wouldn’t click. After trying multiple screw settings I came to a somewhat unorthodox solution. I placed a piece of folded paper under the left corner of the metal cover. Now it wouldn`t press the button anymore and the paper keeps everything in place until fully reassembled.

max - Réponse

  • Soulevez le bord inférieur du support du bouton home jusqu'à ce qu'il s'enlève du petit piquet sur le côté droit.

  • Faites glisser le support d'en dessous du blindage électromagnétique (EMI) pour le retirer.

You have to lift it just a bit over the grey plastic knob on the left side.

Martin Born - Réponse

  • A l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur du bouton home en le faisant sortir de sa prise sur l'arrière du panneau d'écran.

Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose.

Sam Decrock - Réponse

You may need to use 2 picks/spudgers to do this as I have found that the socket and connector do not disconnect so easily. Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector.

Bryan Solo - Réponse

Thanks, Bryan this helped a lot.

Antonio Gomez -

When I did this step, the home button connecter tore right off at the bend in the thin ribbon. Not sure how - I got through other somewhat delicate steps in this project without damaging anything.

Anyway, phone won’t even power up now (I put it back together hoping that I could navigate around the interface somehow without home button).

New home button assembly on order from iFixit.

John Matz - Réponse

  • Appuyez doucement sur le bouton home par le côté avant de l'écran, pour séparer doucement le joint du bouton home et le panneau frontal.

    • Le joint est très mince et se déchire facilement. Appliquez une pression constante et donnez-lui de temps de se séparer.

What happens if the gasket ends up as toast? I had to re-assemble without and hope for the best.

Todd Strack - Réponse

I think its main function is to keep moisture and dust out. Short-term probably nothing bad will happen; long-term, I’d guess you might have higher risk of contamination or corrosion on internal components.

Jeff Suovanen -

The video shows the the tech heating the bottom at this so it releases easier. I heated mine with a hair dryer. Came off fine.

Patrick Egan - Réponse

  • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever le câble plat du bouton home de l'arrière du panneau d'écran.

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  • Retirez le bouton home avec nappe.

If you’re purchasing a replacement front panel part from ifixit, you can stop here. The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly.

John Livingston - Réponse

  • Il ne reste que le panneau frontal.

Thank you for a thorough and complete guide. The different views of each step helped tremendously. My daughter appreciates it as well, because that means I didn't have to deprive her of her phone for too long.!

Todd Chafin - Réponse

On reassembly two very important things...1 - remember to remove the blue/green protective plastic cover from the back of the new screen before putting it back together. You will notice the tab sticking off to the right side of the screen near the volume buttons. 2- take special note of how the two tabs sticking out at the bottom of your replacement screen on either side of your home button. They should be close to vertical or perpendicular to the screen face or they won't be close enough to start the pentalobe screw when finishing the reassembly. Tried to post picture but couldn't figure out how to. You can do this! ;-)

David Althaus - Réponse

also dont forget to remove the front camera, some digitizer kits donty include them

Thomas Judd - Réponse

Install the new adhesive seal (the one you peeled off in step 3) before you install the new screen. I forgot and it was tricky to line up with with all the connectors in place.

Jim Wong - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

574 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Jeff Suovanen

Membre depuis le 06/08/2013

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70 commentaires

Muito bom. Já aprendi muito consultando os tutoriais da IFIXIT. Parabéns.

Eder Macario - Réponse

Solution worked very well - a couple of comments: 1. With a cracked screen the suction cup doesn't hold very well, I was nevertheless able to get the screen corner off with some heavy prying above the headphone jack as suggested in step 4. 2. In the replacement part I received, the order of the digitizer and camera cables was reversed, I had to tuck the digitizer cable back under the camera cable to get them down in the correct order. Great pictures and guide from ifixit.

stread777 - Réponse

Agree with both points. The guide is also missing steps (or mention of) moving the camera/sensor/etc to the new digitizer. I didn't think about it until I wondered why the old screen had 3 cables and the new one only had 2.

nerdatheart -

Thanks for the tip, I had the same issue with the suction cup not working on the cracked screen. Applying clear packaging tape over the screen helped but it still didn't come apart. Ended up using a blow dryer on the highest setting to help melt the adhesive around the bottom of the phone (being careful to not let it heat up too long) which eventually made it possible to wedge the spudge inside.

The guide and photos were great along with the replacement part from iFixit. Probably the easiest screen replacement I've done so far.

gotchay -

Try putting packing tape in the center of the screen. This will keep the glass chunks in and the suction cup will stick to it.

Michael St. Hilaire -

I jus replaced the display of my iPhone everything works correctly except for the light sensor, the auto brightness setting is now useless, everything else (camera, speaker, and such) works just fine. Any ideas why?

Enrique Gutierrez - Réponse

You may have not properly seated the proximity sensor, check to assure all plastic label stickers have been removed from the from and that it is properly seated. If it is damaged you will have to purchase a new flex.

Alec -

you may have bent the ribbon cable on accident, those parts are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Michael St. Hilaire -

Stread777 I found that using a wide clear packaging tape adhered to the display that is larger that the suction cup allows you to maintain suction and pull the display up to insert splunger.

I also had to reroute cables

stolz9708 - Réponse

excellent guide 10/10

Margaret King - Réponse

If your display assembly came with it's own "new" home button installed and the target broken phone has NEVER used the fingerprint function...can you use the one on the new assembly without iOS complaining?

William Turner - Réponse

I really liked this guide but what i did not like was that it did not show how to remove the metal part from the screen, nor the speaker and camera. If possible please add this! Otherwise great guide as usual on ifixit!

Johan Andersson - Réponse

You skipped the introduction, didn't you? :) The guide you want is right here.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have order several different iPhone 6S screens from my supplier. When testing the screens I noticed without any other components plugged in (proximity sensor) just the screen I can use touch unless I cover the ear speaker area. The display doesn't dim which I wouldn't expect it to without the proximity sensor plugged in. But, is this a bad screen or a sensor of some kind in the actual screen cabling that senses light without proximity sensor?

Brady Davidson - Réponse

I have noticed with some cheaper 6S screens that the proximity sensor will not work. If that is the case for you make sure that you scratch off the black film that is on the glass where the proximity sensor is suppose to go. It is not the prettiest thing but it is functional!

Gadget Tech - PDX - Réponse

I've disconnected the 3 seperate pins (display data, digitizer and camera flex) why when i search for a screen on say amazon or ebay do the replacements only have 2??

A Fearn - Réponse

The third connector is for the front-facing camera flex/sensor assembly. A lot of screens are sold without it, so you have to transfer that part over from your old display before you reassemble everything. At the top of this guide, you'll find a link to a longer/alternate guide for transferring components over to a bare-bones replacement screen. If you prefer to save yourself the hassle, just stick with the guide you're seeing here and use the pre-assembled part linked at the top.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you for another excellent guide!

Christa - Réponse

https://www.injuredgadgets.com/LCD_Scree...

The way the cables look on this one i'm guessing is correct, could someone please tell me if this is the right fit for Verizon iPhone 6s please or send me a link to the one i need to get!!!!

Bailey Duncan - Réponse

That's an iPhone 6 display, as opposed to a 6s. They are not compatible. The correct part for the 6s is linked at the top of this guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced a screen and there's a "ghost touch" issue. Did I do something wrong or is it a defective display?

John Cavaliere - Réponse

It could be the part itself is defective or you bent a ribbon cable while putting it together. I had a similar issue once. The LCD worked perfectly fine when I tested it before I popped the screen back on. When I popped the screen in it didn't work, when I popped the screen back out with the cables still connected it worked. I returned the screen and swapped it out with a new one and it worked fine.

TLDR: it's probably the replacement screen itself.

John Cavaliere -

I don't understand , i have different displays , different producer and in my 3 different iPhone 6S the same problem.

WAPIK -

Hi I jus replaced mine. Any idea why my cameras don't work

Front or back

Tashan O'Neal - Réponse

WARNING!: You should NOT reconnect your battery FPC cable / connector until the VERY LAST reassembly step! Modify your reassembly procedure to move this "re-connection" of the battery connector until very last. I can't stress this enough. My logic board is now burned (it smoked upon reconnecting the LCD replacement part, because the battery was already reconnected and "live". The problem is that if you don't have the FPC connector aligned just perfect to the header (on the logic board), you create a momentary short (when the pins aren't aligned well)... this causes the Logic board to instantly burn. Save yourself trouble.

###You have been warned###

enoughstatic - Réponse

Sorry to hear you had such a bad outcome. The guide directs you to disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last, which is the correct procedure (and just good practice for electronics repair in general). There is no danger if the steps are followed in order. I don't know if it's any consolation, but at this point you most likely have a blown backlight circuit, which is a straightforward fix for a good microsoldering expert. There are several that frequent our Answers forum, so you may want to reach out to one of them to see about restoring your phone to working order. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I followed this tutorial to replace my broken iPhone 6s display, everything went fine, everything working after the replacement, but the display kind of has a pink hue to it. Does anybody have had the same impression? I mean, is that because of the quality of the replacement part or may I have done something wrong during the repair process?

David - Réponse

I have the same problem. Did you find a solution yet? or did you just got used to it?

Donat -

Replaced my broken screen and the display works but the touch screen is not responding to any touch or pressure. When the old screen is put back the touch screen works fine . I have tried 2 different new screens with the same result.

Brian

Brian - Réponse

I replaced the screen complete and battery and lightning / headphone jack all at the same time. Smooth as silk.

joshuabogage - Réponse

the screen was tough to get loose! ifixit sent a guitar pick with it that worked better than the spudger . little plugins are picky. maybe if i had smaller hands it would have been easier but it took less than an hour, Im happy!

Dan Powell - Réponse

Tried this repair on a broken 6s screen. The repair was easy, and the guide was helpful, but my touch ID does not work now. Does anyone know what the problem is

Jackson Kroger - Réponse

you have damaged the touch id flex cable

Computer Hacker -

Hey all! I replaced the screen just fine, the guide was amazing! However, the new screen powers on, displays the Apple logo for about five seconds then turns off…then it repeats. I don’t have to touch the phone, and it will do this over and over again. It’s doing it currently.

I tried the trick of holding down the power button and the home button and it all it does is turn off the phone and start it back up again with the exact same issue.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Kellan Bradshaw - Réponse

You’ll probably need to do a bit of troubleshooting to isolate the issue. You can find some suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced my friends screen the other day and it took only about 30 or so minutes. I used the pro tech toolkit that you can buy from Ifixit and this guide and I had a smooth install and her phone was up and running in no time, fantastic guide.

Grass - Réponse

The phone would not boot! The battery was at about 15% before I started. After I replaced the display the phone would not boot. After disassembly & reassembly numerous times looking for a problem, even reinstalling the old display-no boot. In final desperation I plugged in the charger-the phone booted! Apparently if the battery voltage gets too low it will not start the phone after the battery has been disconnected or the phone disassembled.

I don’t know if this problem has an explanation or was unique to my repair.

maltman - Réponse

My 6s id doing the same. How long did you leave yours plugged in before it booted?

Cade Billions -

Thank you for a most detailed and insightful tutorial! This my 4th i-Phone screen repair/replacement and this was by far the best tutorial I have utilized. There were no surprises and the sequential photos really made this job safe for myself AND the phone!

Peter Bovey - Réponse

Nice tutorial!

i have replaced screen and new screen is half black with the other half show semi white and with vertyical lines…

connectors look clean and undamanged… . any thoughts?

Hood - Réponse

Just a warning: my replacement screen does not work well with polarized glasses. It blacks out in the normal ‘vertical’ position. Whereas my original apple screen worked great with polarized glasses when vertical and only slightly dimmed when in the horizontal position.

davecivello - Réponse

I have done this reapair but force touch isn’t working on the new screen. Any ideas on why?

My new screen also has a slight pink tone to it, but I think I’ll get used to it and probably wont think of it. As long as I get my force touch to work again..

Björn Tirsén - Réponse

I just finished a full screen assembly replacement and all seemed to go smoothly. However, like Kellan, Once I reassembled and turned the phone on, it has been stuck in an endless reboot loop of showing the Apple logo for a few seconds, then turning off and repeating.

Any ideas what’s wrong?

Jonathan Elison - Réponse

@jonelison Try the suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just finished the repair on my wife’s phone. Really straight forward. Moving the home button was really easy too!! Turned the phone back on and everything worked just as it should. Thanks!!

Stephen Silva - Réponse

Hi all! I replaced the screen according to the instructions. But when i start up the phone the display shows vertical stripes across the screen. The connectors and cables don’t show any obvious damage. When I reinstall the old screen no problems appear. What could be the problem?

Martijn Mooij - Réponse

I completed this guide and it went smoothly. The hardest part was installing new screen adhesive and removing and installing the home button onto the new screen without damaging it. Patience is needed to complete this without any problems. I notice a slight color difference between the OEM screen and my repacement screen. I took a phone call shortly after finishing my install and noticed that the new ear speaker does not sound good. It sounds like it has a lot of feedback, which my 2 year old oem speaker had none of.

Nathan Stark - Réponse

Do I need the Display Assembly Adhesive in order to replace a broken screen?

Tobias Vielmetter-Diekmann - Réponse

@tividi Replacing the display assembly adhesive is recommended but not required. If you get the fix kit linked at the top of this guide, it comes with replacement adhesive.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello, I completed the guide and replaced the new screen from ifixit. But the screen wouldn’t turn on. I replaced the original cracked screen to check if I had done anything wrong… Its working fine…. Any solutions?

vimaladithya - Réponse

This is my first repair, and everything is great except now that I have came to the last step and am unsure on how to reassemble the device; I do not know what you mean by “in reverse order". Are you saying to start from step 28 and go all the way back to step 1?? Prompt answers are greatly appreciated.

Isaiah Gadsden - Réponse

28,27,26,25,…….1

willpowers51 -

I tried this, but my screen wasn’t broken? so why should I do this?

Carl Jefferson - Réponse

Similar issue as noted above, the new screen is dead. I can get the original cracked screen to work, but can’t get anything on the new. Second pro replacement kit i’ve gotten that was dead after replacement. Replaced quite a few screens in the past, never had an issue. Would have been less trouble to pay the extra twenty bucks for the guy at the mall to do it.

jmason - Réponse

Hi question.

If screen was broken. But Home button and touch ID work. If I will replace the screen. I will not have a problem with touch ID in the feature?

Arkady Shustov - Réponse

no because you are you going to transfer the home button on to the new screen.

hilmary -

good guide! repair done

Spence - Réponse

cool. success. just remember when reattaching the 3 cables at the end that the 2 horizontal ones are in the right order. I spent 10 minutes trying to connect the first cable as it was actually on top of the second cable (from when I added the camera, prox sensor ,etc).

just required flip on over the other at the base of the cables. and then they connected properly.

altomic - Réponse

Thank you, this guide worked perfectly and the repair process was relatively simple. The only tricky bit was reconnecting the home button connector—it didn’t ‘click’ clearly into place so I wasn’t sure if I did it right, and I didn’t want to press too hard. After reconnecting the new display, I powered the phone on and confirmed that the home button worked before removing the adhesive release liner and finishing the repair.

philballman - Réponse

I’m having the same issue with this install as some above have had: I install the replacement screen, reassemble everything, but when I press to turn on or plug in the phone nothing happens. The screen is just black. The old screen worked fine, but was only cracked. I’ve opened everything back up to check the cables/connections, disconnected everything, reconnected again, tried booting, and still nothing. Did I(we) just get a glitchy replacement? I’d love to see a response to this particular issue if anyone’s come across the same thing. Thanks.

davejmoz - Réponse

Reconnect your old screen and see if it still works as expected. If it does, you may have received a defective replacement screen. If it doesn’t, you may have damaged something during your repair. Did you disconnect the battery when removing and installing the screen as instructed?

Jeff Suovanen -

Everything is great but the light sensor doesn’t work

I traied two different iPhone 6s the same problem

is there anything on the new iPhone LCD lights sensor should I remove it before installation??

raid amri - Réponse

Fix went smoothly, and the display is fully functional - but despite replacing the display adhesive, the sides of the screen don’t seem to want to stay tightly fit. Anyone know the reason for this? And perhaps a fix?

Thanks

Brooks Anderson - Réponse

Stuck on one section while installing the new screen, adding the Touch ID/Home Button and when screwing the plate that holds the Touch ID/Home Button from the back, the screws do not reach in enough to screw into the holes. Tried pushing down as hard as I could without damaging the assembly. Screws will fit into the old screen assembly but not the new assembly from IFIXIT.

Shane - Réponse

Thanks for censoring my post. The real &&^&^$^ deal.

awesom_o - Réponse

@awesom_o I deleted your comment because it contained incorrect information—when performed as instructed, this repair does not disable any of the phone’s functions. Many, many people have done this with no problem, so to say it “sucks” and tell everyone not to try it is misleading. That said, I can tell you were frustrated and I’m sorry you had a bad experience. If you want to share your thoughts in a slightly more constructive, less-scaremongery fashion, I’ll be happy to leave them up. The point of having a comment system is to help each other identify (and hopefully resolve) issues like the ones you experienced. You can also try the Answers forum if you want detailed help. Plus, if you bought your parts from iFixit, we have a crack team of customer service reps dedicated to helping you resolve problems and making sure you didn’t get a defective part. You just have to reach out. Hope this helps.

Jeff Suovanen -

As at least one person stated, I wasn’t sure the home button cable was attached. It doesn’t click in. It’s a matter of having it in the right place, and then screwing the plate down on it. Fortunately, I had it placed properly, and upon powering up, it worked. Other than that, the only challenge is dealing with tiny screws with old eyeballs. :) Great guide!

Gregory Aden - Réponse

Instructions were, super concise, and very easy to follow. Make sure to take your time, and this was significantly easier than some of the other phones on the market to work with. Many thanks to the author.

Matt Howe - Réponse

Worked a treat, thanks OP. Home button had 3 screw holes and 2 screws so I stole a screw from the dead screen I was replacing.

Eric Bostrom - Réponse

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