Introduction
Is your iPhone's selfie camera failing to take photos? It may be time to replace the front camera. Use this guide to replace the front camera sensor assembly, including the ambient light sensor and microphone in an iPhone 7.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Vidéo d'introduction
-
-
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
-
Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
-
-
-
Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?
Sesenta segundos
Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)
If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?
Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?
Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger
Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?
The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.
Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?
After heating opening it stoped working.
Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com
It definitely can. That happened to me.
I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.
Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!
For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.
You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!
🤣 You made my day Adrian, thank you!
Jicey -
I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.
I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.
I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.
I would DEFINITELY recommend to NOT use direct heat (hair drier, etc.) on the phone. I used a hair drier to help heat the phone and ended up damaging the home button (would not work after the replacement and I did not touch or take apart the home button). Note that a damaged home button cannot be replaced so I will end up using the alternative “screen” home button going forward with my phone. Instead I would recommend preheating something else (example - metal / coins / ceramic / beads / glass stones / cookware / etc..) to a warm-to hot (but not burning hot) touch and place the heated items on the IPHONE (or visa versa) to heat and soften the adhesive.
I placed the iOpener heat bag over the bottom of the phone, disregarding the home button. Now it doesn’t work. All subsequent procedures went well as I was very careful. I should have read all the posts! Protect the home button from direct heat. Fortunately, now using the Assistive Touch feature is better than buying a new phone or replacing the home button.
It’s better to choose an iPhone back case to cover and protect your phone from bumps and scratches. Choosing premium cases is the best option for long-term safety. If you need ***iPhone 7 phone cases*** then you can check them out!
-
-
-
Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.
A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)
Last comment works well. Thank you !
Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.
Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.
I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.
Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!
Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?
The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.
Agreed, the iFixit suction cup was useless. I borrowed one from the sponge holder in my kitchen sink. It lacked a grip so I held it with needle-nose pliers, resting them on a bit of wood to keep pressure off the phone.
ephraim -
I am not getting this open at all! Why an I provided with tools that can't help me ??♀️
I couldn’t get the bottom to lift first, but the left side did, so I started there and worked my way around the horn.
-
-
-
Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
-
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.
This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.
I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.
mcr4u2 -
I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)
Cristef -
Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain
Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful
This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/
Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.
Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.
I second Jessica’s January 8 comment. I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part. I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough). The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection. I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted) was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup. From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture). I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to). Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.
This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.
use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger
The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)
Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.
Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.
It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!
The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)
Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.
I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.
This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.
Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.
When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.
I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.
This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.
The third hand was essential.
I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.
Lucas -
It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!
I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.
I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.
Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles
seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted) was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup. From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”
I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.
I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.
More feedback on this “guide”:
“Pull up on the suction cup.” What does this mean? If I just pull up on the suction cup (with a real one that actually sticks) it just lifts the phone off the table. You need a description of what you are pulling against. Do I try to hold the frame of the phone? Do I try to stick something in the lightning port to pull against? Do I try and get something against the edge of the rounded metal on the edge of the phone (this usually just slips off). What am I pulling against???
I found a combination of iOpener, suction cup and razor blade, all applied at the same time, worked for me and I didn't need to use a hairdryer.
Dumbly, I thought that with the Spudger I'd had to hold the phone from the charging hole while pulling the screen. .. In the end I inserted the two ends of the tweezers(bends the tweezers and may damage it) in the screwdriver holes and pushed the screen out upwards so that I could insert the sharp side of a knife.
This was my first iPhone battery replacement and I can say this was the hardest part.
Be wise, go for a hair dryer and heat up the phone bottom (long enough). iOpener did not work at all for me. Heat up, use the suction cup and push the opening pick under the frame as soon as you see movement along the frame.
Then use the spudger to wander around the whole frame (leaving the pick where it is). Done!
One little corner at a time. Don't try to do the whole bottom at once. I heated with a hair dryer. Applied the suction cup to one side and worked the corner till it started to give. Took a minute or two. Use a magnifying glass to help see when it's starting to come loose. It's not hard to do.
-
-
-
Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.
-
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.
I used a hairdryer and a razor
The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.
I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.
-
-
-
Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.
Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.
-
-
-
Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.
-
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
-
Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
-
-
-
Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.
do not pull up pull sideways it will brake
Made this mistake
Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.
-
-
-
Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
-
-
-
Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.
The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.
This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.
jvalaamo -
-
-
-
-
Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
-
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
same dude im such a freak lol omg haha
Are there replacements ribbons?
Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?
I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws
Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!
Albert -
Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-
I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.
This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.
I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.
Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.
I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.
no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.
thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.
I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.
Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…
Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !
-
-
-
Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:
-
Three 1.2 mm screws
-
One 2.4 mm screw
These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck
What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck
i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.
What if I stripped a screw what do I do??
Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?
It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.
Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.
For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.
What do I do if I Stripped one of them?
Can’t get them removed what to do ?
Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…
You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/
Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.
Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.
I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small. use a magnetised screwdriver, or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol
Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid
Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.
To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws. This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.
try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.
-
-
-
Remove the lower connector bracket.
my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off
This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.
So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.
Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?
Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…
I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.
Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.
Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.
-
-
-
Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?
Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.
I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.
The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.
It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.
In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.
Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.
It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....
Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.
after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level
-
-
-
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.
To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.
Remplacement des bandes adhésives fixant l'écran d'un iPhone
MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.
Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(
I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?
Thanks for advice!
this point is the most important in the whole manual.
Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking
I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.
My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.
Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.
I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.
If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..
It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.
I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement
I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(
Viktoria -
There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.
When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.
I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!
Viktoria -
thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.
-
-
-
Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)
It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.
If you’re having trouble removing these screws;
the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.
If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.
If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).
If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.
there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.
I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.
I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..
Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!
^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.
the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet
The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(
Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.
I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.
PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.
the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?
You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.
Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O
I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work
I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.
The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…
That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!
and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well
PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!
-
-
-
Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.
Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.
Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.
Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.
@victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!
This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.
After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.
The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?
The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?
-
-
-
Remove the display assembly.
When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).
Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?
@victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)
This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?
@trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?
If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!
If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.
-
-
-
Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:
-
Two 2.6 mm screws
-
One 1.7 mm screw
I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6
I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.
does anyone know the size of the srew on top left of the picture, next to the left red marked one? i know it’s for the earpiece in the display but i don’t know which screw has to be in there.
When reassembling the ear/speaker piece the plate and screws don’t seem to sit in snug and screws seem not to catch?? Any ideas what could be making this part hard to reassemble?
It sounds like something’s blocking the earpiece speaker bracket from sitting flat. It’s possible that any of the parts under the bracket aren’t fully seated and are sitting a little higher than they should be. There also could be bunched up adhesive or other debris stuck under any of those parts. I’d recommend double-checking that all the parts under the bracket are clean and are sitting correctly in their slots on the display.
-
-
-
Remove the two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:
-
One 1.9 mm screw
-
One 2.5 mm screw
i have the same question. Does anyone know which size the third screw on the picture (not marked) has? would be great if someone can help me out with that. thanks a lot!
If I measured correctly, it’s a PH000 1,2 mm
I noticed the the third screw is a Y000 on a replacement screen.
It is not necessary to remove the third blue screw in order to remove the ear piece.
-
-
-
Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.
-
-
-
Use a spudger to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel.
I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.
I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.
At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)
I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.
I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.
I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.
In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks
I also had to pop out the clear plastic surround of the front camera to put into my new screen. It’s just glued in, so heat and pop it out with a spudger. Best to do this step last so you don’t accidentally tear any ribbons.
I actually found that removing the assembly from the other side (like the step 35) is a bit easier. Also, heat is really useful! I took an hair dryer, and for at least 3 minutes I heated by interval the piece, and at the end, the glue was so soft, it was really easy to remove!
I forgot to read the comments for this step (unfortunately) and had the same issue like Miguel. I think the guide should write that “gently pry the ambient light sensor and its transparent plastic case from the front panel”. If you do not need the plastic case there is no problem, mine practically fell out from the rest of the sensor after turning it upside down.
-
-
-
Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.
на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры
-
-
-
Remove the front camera and sensor cable.
Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.
Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel
Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?
Thanks
fakirox -
do you know the measurements of that small philips screw?
I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement
I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?
Cheers!
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
160 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
20 commentaires
Question ..... I have a clear square plastic piece (open in the center) with a tab on one side. What is that for?
Holds the lens in place.
No that is for the ambient light sensor. LCD replacements come with it already installed on em’, so you can toss it if you see it on the replacement already. The larger, circular plastic piece is for the lens.
Does the iPhone 7 plus Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement has to do anything with the earpieces speaker? i have replace my iphone 7 plus screen and front camera and sensor cable replacement and speaker and it still doesn’t work. what could really be wrong with my iphone 7 plus?
Awesome tutorial, thank you! I couldn’t have replaced my camera without this! Well I could have but not the right way!!
Hi so i was replacing my screen when this ribbon ripped. Until I can get the part in the mail is there anything else that having this ribbon ripped will do or effect?
Hiya, I do not believe so. I damaged the ribbon, no obvious signs but must of as worked when the new one was plugged in and it did not appear to have any affect on anything else. Hope this helps.
I ripped the cable in half and was able to use my phone fine for two weeks until I had the part in hand and time to make the replacement. Calls had to be on speaker or in headphones, and I needed to manually adjust my screen brightness throughout the day. You also won't have a selfie cam.
I replaced my friends screen after he smashed it, must of damaged the cable as once put together the phone was on Apple logo and could not get it to turn on. Had a feeling it was the sensor and it was. Ordered a new one from Amazon and turned on straight away.
The phone would not turn on with the old one plugged in or not so couldn't be 100% but it worked and now have a happy friend. Luckily I didn't restore the phone too!
I bought the replacement from iFixit, and afterwards, the selfie camera didn’t work. and the reason for the replacement was to fix the speaker problem, because I count really understand anymore the phone calls and it also didn’t change the problem. Also the speaker was replaced with an ifixit part. and now the Touch ID is also not working.
the flex of iphone 7 plus are compatible with the iphone 7?
I am looking at doing this replacement because I am having trouble with siri hearing me. I believe the earpiece microphone is in this cable but it is not listed on the part description. Can anyone verify this?
In this image, the microphone is the gold rectangle with the foam pad on top. You can see it being separated from the screen in Step 27.
Replaced the camera, but now my microphone does not work. I can listen to voicemails from both the top and loud speaker, as well as sound over the lightning and Bluetooth connection. A pair of headphones (external mic?) Will not enable phone calls or voice recorder, but will let me listen to music.
Any thoughts on resolving this issue?
Double-check the connectors and re-seat them; check for damage to the cables; remove the part and make sure the microphone isn’t blocked by adhesive or other debris. If all else fails, try installing the old part (or replacing it a second time) in case you received a defective microphone. Good luck!
I am having a hard time putting the front facing camera into my iPhone7. Is there a video showing this process. The ribbon cable just does play in
Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?
Cooper Chase - Réponse
Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.
rcheing - Réponse
Can’t get the display front
Bernadette Pfeifer - Réponse
From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.
ballina5ny - Réponse
I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.
Mark Lieberman - Réponse
in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)
Jan-Tijn Oppermann -
3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.
Ahmad Vaziri -
the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks
Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Réponse
The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.
Bram Driesen -
Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.
Jon Moylan - Réponse
If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.
Ryan Huebert - Réponse
Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction
Cynthia Lamb - Réponse
I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?
Richard - Réponse
Do the screws come out in total?
YVES THEUGELS - Réponse
They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.
Anthony Falabella -
Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??
YVES THEUGELS - Réponse
I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.
Anthony Scaminaci - Réponse
At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Réponse
I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.
I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.
Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Réponse
I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.
I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.
The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?
H K - Réponse