Introduction
Tutoriel prérequis pour ouvrir un iPhone 7 afin d'accéder aux composants internes.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.
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Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,4 mm qui se situent sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.
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Utilisez un sèche-cheveux, ou bien préparez un iOpener et posez-le sur la partie inférieure de l'iPhone. Patientez environ une minute, ceci fera ramollir l'adhésif en dessous.
¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?
Sesenta segundos
Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)
If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?
Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?
Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger
Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?
The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.
Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?
After heating opening it stoped working.
Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com
It definitely can. That happened to me.
I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.
Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!
For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.
You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!
🤣 You made my day Adrian, thank you!
Jicey -
I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.
I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.
I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.
I would DEFINITELY recommend to NOT use direct heat (hair drier, etc.) on the phone. I used a hair drier to help heat the phone and ended up damaging the home button (would not work after the replacement and I did not touch or take apart the home button). Note that a damaged home button cannot be replaced so I will end up using the alternative “screen” home button going forward with my phone. Instead I would recommend preheating something else (example - metal / coins / ceramic / beads / glass stones / cookware / etc..) to a warm-to hot (but not burning hot) touch and place the heated items on the IPHONE (or visa versa) to heat and soften the adhesive.
I placed the iOpener heat bag over the bottom of the phone, disregarding the home button. Now it doesn’t work. All subsequent procedures went well as I was very careful. I should have read all the posts! Protect the home button from direct heat. Fortunately, now using the Assistive Touch feature is better than buying a new phone or replacing the home button.
It’s better to choose an iPhone back case to cover and protect your phone from bumps and scratches. Choosing premium cases is the best option for long-term safety. If you need ***iPhone 7 phone cases*** then you can check them out!
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Posez une ventouse sur la partie basse de l'écran, juste au-dessus du bouton home.
A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)
Last comment works well. Thank you !
Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.
Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.
I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.
Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!
Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?
The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.
Agreed, the iFixit suction cup was useless. I borrowed one from the sponge holder in my kitchen sink. It lacked a grip so I held it with needle-nose pliers, resting them on a bit of wood to keep pressure off the phone.
ephraim -
I am not getting this open at all! Why an I provided with tools that can't help me ??♀️
I couldn’t get the bottom to lift first, but the left side did, so I started there and worked my way around the horn.
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Tirez sur la ventouse pour créer un petit espace entre l'ensemble de l'écran et le boîtier arrière.
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Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans l'espace créé.
This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.
I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.
mcr4u2 -
I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)
Cristef -
Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain
Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful
This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/
Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.
Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.
I second Jessica’s January 8 comment. I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part. I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough). The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection. I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted) was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup. From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture). I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to). Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.
This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.
use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger
The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)
Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.
Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.
It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!
The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)
Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.
I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.
This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.
Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.
When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.
I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.
This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.
The third hand was essential.
I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.
Lucas -
It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!
I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.
I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.
Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles
seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted) was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup. From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”
I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.
I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.
More feedback on this “guide”:
“Pull up on the suction cup.” What does this mean? If I just pull up on the suction cup (with a real one that actually sticks) it just lifts the phone off the table. You need a description of what you are pulling against. Do I try to hold the frame of the phone? Do I try to stick something in the lightning port to pull against? Do I try and get something against the edge of the rounded metal on the edge of the phone (this usually just slips off). What am I pulling against???
I found a combination of iOpener, suction cup and razor blade, all applied at the same time, worked for me and I didn't need to use a hairdryer.
Dumbly, I thought that with the Spudger I'd had to hold the phone from the charging hole while pulling the screen. .. In the end I inserted the two ends of the tweezers(bends the tweezers and may damage it) in the screwdriver holes and pushed the screen out upwards so that I could insert the sharp side of a knife.
This was my first iPhone battery replacement and I can say this was the hardest part.
Be wise, go for a hair dryer and heat up the phone bottom (long enough). iOpener did not work at all for me. Heat up, use the suction cup and push the opening pick under the frame as soon as you see movement along the frame.
Then use the spudger to wander around the whole frame (leaving the pick where it is). Done!
One little corner at a time. Don't try to do the whole bottom at once. I heated with a hair dryer. Applied the suction cup to one side and worked the corner till it started to give. Took a minute or two. Use a magnifying glass to help see when it's starting to come loose. It's not hard to do.
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Glissez le spudger vers la gauche le long du bord inférieur de l'iPhone.
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Tournez le spudger pour agrandir l'espace entre le boîtier arrière et l'écran.
Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.
I used a hairdryer and a razor
The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.
I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.
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Faites glisser la spatule le long du côté gauche en commençant par le bord inférieur et en travaillant vers les boutons de contrôle du volume et le commutateur du silencieux.
Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.
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Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans le coin inférieur droit de l'appareil.
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Bougez la spatule pour agrandir l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.
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Faites glisser la spatule le long du bord droit du téléphone tout en défaisant l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran.
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Tirez sur la ventouse pour soulever l'écran et ouvrir l'iPhone.
do not pull up pull sideways it will brake
Made this mistake
Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.
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Tirez vers le haut la petite bosse de la ventouse afin de la séparer du panneau frontal.
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Faites glisser un médiator le long du bord supérieur de l'iPhone, entre le boîtier arrière et le panneau frontal pour briser l'adhésif restant qui maintient l'écran en place.
The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.
This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.
jvalaamo -
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Eloignez légèrement l'écran complet du bord supérieur du téléphone pour dégager les clips le maintenant au boîtier arrière.
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Ouvrez l'iPhone en pivotant l'écran vers le haut en partant du côté gauche comme la couverture d'un livre.
same dude im such a freak lol omg haha
Are there replacements ribbons?
Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?
I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws
Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!
Albert -
Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-
I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.
This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.
I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.
Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.
I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.
no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.
thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.
I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.
Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…
Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?
Cooper Chase - Réponse
Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.
rcheing - Réponse
Can’t get the display front
Bernadette Pfeifer - Réponse
From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.
ballina5ny - Réponse
I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.
Mark Lieberman - Réponse
in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)
Jan-Tijn Oppermann -
3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.
Ahmad Vaziri -
the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks
Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Réponse
The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.
Bram Driesen -
Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.
Jon Moylan - Réponse
If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.
Ryan Huebert - Réponse
Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction
Cynthia Lamb - Réponse
I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?
Richard - Réponse
Do the screws come out in total?
YVES THEUGELS - Réponse
They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.
Anthony Falabella -
Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??
YVES THEUGELS - Réponse
I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.
Anthony Scaminaci - Réponse
At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Réponse
I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.
I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.
Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Réponse
I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.
I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.
The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?
H K - Réponse