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Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus

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  1. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Écran complet: étape 1, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Écran complet: étape 1, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Écran complet: étape 1, image 3 de 3
    • Assurez vous que la batterie est déconnectée avant de toucher aux nappes dans cette étape.

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger (spatule) ou d'un ongle, faites levier sur les deux connecteurs d'écran inférieurs afin de les déconnecter de leurs prises sur la carte mère.

    • Pour remettre des connecteurs à pression, appuyez sur un côté jusqu'à ce qu'il se mette en place avec un clic, puis répétez la même chose de l'autre côté. N'appuyez pas sur le milieu. Si le connecteur est ne serait-ce qu'un peu mal aligné, il risque de se tordre et causer des dommages permanents.

    • Si vous avez un écran blanc, des lignes blanches sur l'écran, ou s'il n'y a pas de retour tactile après que vous ayez remonté votre iPhone, essayez de déconnecter et soigneusement reconnecter les deux nappes et vérifiez qu'elles sont bien insérées.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Réponse

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Réponse

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - Réponse

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - Réponse

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - Réponse

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO - Réponse

  2. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 2, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 2, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 2, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez les trois vis tri-point Y000 fixant le support au dessus du connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal:

    • Une vis de 1,3 mm

    • Deux vis de 1,0 mm

    • Retirez le support.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Réponse

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Réponse

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - Réponse

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - Réponse

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - Réponse

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - Réponse

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - Réponse

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Réponse

  3. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 3, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • Déconnectez le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ce connecteur à pression doit également être remis un côté à la fois, pour réduire le risque de le tordre.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - Réponse

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - Réponse

  4. Remplacement de l'écran complet de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 4, image 1 de 1

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - Réponse

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - Réponse

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - Réponse

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

    Shawn Hime - Réponse

    I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

    In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

    If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

    Rob Russell - Réponse

    This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

    Jezagee - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Paige Reisman

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