Introduction
If your iPhone XS screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when your phone is powered on, use this guide to restore your iPhone to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.
The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.
Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.
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Vidéo d'introduction
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
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If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.
How to detect my Iphone what screen it is, OLED or LCD?
It’s OLED. You can find the specs here, https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201296
When you find your phone, at the bottom of the description click on, See the tech specs…
mcr4u2 -
The included suction cups were stiff and worthless. They would not lift the screen. Also, I tried every type of tape on the screen to help the suction cups stick without success. Heavy duty suction cups were for my bathroom also failed. However, I had an old GoPro mount with some preapplied double sided 3M VSB tape and stuck that on the screen near the bottom. Magic! This method had the added bonus of being able to use a GoPro attachment as a handle to lift the screen, and propped up the screen like a kickstand in step 12.
Very cool! Thanks
Antonio -
My screen was pretty stuck… would not budge. Heated, super glued the suction cup, tried gorilla tape. Ended up doing the GoPro mount with 3M VSB tape method mentioned. Worked great. That 3M tape is the bomb.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003 thick goes right in. Work your way up until you can get the pick or supplied pry tool in.
where can I buy 3M VSB plis!!
3M VHB tape is at auto stores and other big box stores, or online.
nicO -
I used the tweezers that came with the replacement screen and jammed one of them into the glass and that eventually worked. Heating with a blow dryer is also important. The suction cup was helpful in loosening the adhesive for sure, but just not enough to get the display to come out.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
It seems like I need a third hand to do this. To hold the phone; hold the suction cup; and push the pick in the space.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
FYI: I used a tiny piece of scotch tape to hold those 1mm screws in place while aligning the magnetic screwdriver. Otherwise they are so tiny the magnetic bit pulls them right out the hole.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
In my phone the connector made poor contact with the socket resulting in no sound audible through the phone receiver/headset. There was an overhang of insulation close to the socket which I believe may have prevented a good connection. So if you have these kinds of audio problems you might see if this is the problem.
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Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
Reassembly: reconnecting the press connectors upon reassembly was so hard, even for the ones not seated in a recessed location !! It took me two days to get them reconnected. What helped me was to shine bright lights on all sides of the iPhone and then hold the iPhone vertically like a book and press it in that way. They are now all in, but the touchscreen functionality has disappeared :( so I will need to reconnect that one.
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Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
Will replacing camera and sensors fix damaged face I'd
No, FaceID will be disabled because the original sensors are paired with the logic board.
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On the back of the display assembly, peel back and remove any tape covering the hidden screw at the lower right corner of the speaker housing.
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Remove the three Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
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One 1.3 mm screw
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One 1.4 mm screw
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One 1.9 mm screw
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
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Carefully slide the edge of an opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
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Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
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If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel. If the microphone remains difficult to separate, apply more heat.
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If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
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If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
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Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
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Proximity sensor
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Flood illuminator
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The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
What is that hole that is on the opposite side of the proximity sensor? Is it necessary any adhesives or special filter to put it back on the bracket?
Hi Rafael! The hole is for the front-facing microphone. You should be able to reuse the existing adhesive on the screen. If you're transferring it, you can cut a square of double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, poke a generous hole in the center of the square, and apply it to the cable with the hole.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
217 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
42 commentaires
It would be better if you provided some guidance on moving the iPhone XS Front Camera and Sensor Holder from the old display to the new one since the part you deliver does not include it. In order to remove it I ended up having to use my heat gun which warped the plastic and ultimately caused me to have to buy a replacement. Does it require adhesive? I still don’t know and it gets conveniently ignored in your guide and repair videos on YouTube. I’m quite frustrated.
Sorry about that! That’s no fun at all. iFixit’s replacement screens are meant to include that component; I’ll ask for someone to check and make sure it’s not left out in the future. However, it’s normally pretty easy to remove using mild heat and/or a few drops of isopropyl alcohol, with some gentle wiggling and prying. Then you carefully position it on your new screen. Adhesive is helpful, but once you screw down the earpiece speaker over the top, it should be perfectly secure regardless.
My phone screen feels a little loose after reassembly. Mostly in the top left area if I push it.. is this normal?
Short answer: Yes. Long answer: If you have adhesive on it that can hold the screen down. If you don’t it’s $5 and super easy to put on. It is kind of normal for the screen to be a little warped, I have done replacements on iPhones without reapplying adhesive and when applying heat it can warp it a tiny bit. The adhesive can help with this a lot. I strongly recommend you get it to hold your screen down.
Thanks a lot for this great instruction!
Sorry for a stupid question, is the digitizer and lcd screen one unit? Long story short, the screen is not cracked but the lcd somehow got damaged.
Hi Reggie,
The digitizer and OLED panel are pretty intricately attached to each other and are sold together as one unit. You may be able to replace the OLED panel without replacing the digitizer, but that would require specialty tools.
Bello, Después que tengas un buen ojo y buen pulso.
Se ve y se siente igual que el original.
Lo mega recomiendo!
Hi, I have one problem and I really hope to find somebody with answers. I need to replace an iPhone XS screen but…. My original screen doesnt have these metallic parts you use to clip it to the rest of the phone. The screen I have ordered had them and also was a tiny bit too long for my phone. This is all so very weird because I can't find any other types of screen online. Seems almost like my phone is a problem. Have you ever encountered such problem? You can reach me by email roza.francois@gmail.com
Hi. i also have the problem like fracois. Could you help me please?! You can reach me by email under dcs.privat@gmail.com
Greetings,
Daniel
Where are you guys ordering parts from? Try taking pictures of both your phone and the old/new screens and post your question in our Answers forum—you’re more likely to get help there.
It seems to me that the European models of the iPhone XS do not have the clips you mentioned (at least, I have mt9e2b/a and it has no clips). The display is much easier to replace since the earpiece speaker + sensor assembly is not fixed to the display; you can stop at around step 17 and reassemble. BUT you need the correct display module (without clips), or it won't go back together. So really the title of this guide should mention the specific iPhone XS models for which it's suitable.
Thanks for the replacement and instructions, since I replaced the screen of my previous iPhone 6 and iPhone 4 and several more for friends, it just took me around 10 minutes.
Luckily I bought the complete set with the tools, I did not know they used Y000 screws and would not have had a screwdriver for it if there wasn’t one included.
Hello, thank you for the guide and kit, everything was great but there was a problem: the space where the square part with the Proximity sensor and Flood illuminator go, originally on the original Iphone screen had a square little mirror like part (like in your tut pictures), in your Oled replacement screen set it is round and much bigger. Is this a problem?
I ask this cause now the auto-brightness is finnicky, the Iphone dims hard like (brightness auto drops), i don’t think i damaged the ambient light sensor , i was extremely slow and methodical, removed the glue carefully from the two near parts before, didn’t strain the cable, the ambient light sensor came out easily enough, slowly but steadily. Also i think if it would be broken, it would not work and dim the brightness. Could it be related to the fact that the sensor is not glued down like it was before? The screws were carefully put back in the exact order and no glue fell into/onto the sensors. Thank you
Hello. After replacing the display every many while I use it it turns black screen, then I have to lock and unlock it and it lights up again. Could you advise me something? Or is the display faulty? With the original it does not. Thanks.
The install went ok - 2 things should be mentioned….1. does the blue film on the replacement screen need to be removed Yes or No, 2. IF the touch sensor is not working mention trying a hard restart 1st it would have saved me a ton of time and frustration… I assembled, reinstalled the old screen since it was working before, since it didn’t work either, disassembled, and reassembled the replacement part several times to troubleshoot why it wasn’t working. Those screws are sooo small its a wonder I didn’t lose any. None the less, after a hard restart, the touch sensor is working great and the phone is operating as designed. I was going to replace the back glass & ordered the part but there’s no way I am going into that after doing this- its not my phone. I put packing tape over the glass and put it back into the cover. A few hours of time is way cheaper than purchasing a new phone :)
Thanks for the suggestion about the hard restart! If the blue film is lightly adhered to the replacement screen, it is a liner and should be removed.
The two screen connection modules with pins closest to the bottom are impossible to connect. They keep popping out making it impossible to put the cover on. Any tips?
The screen replacement went flawlessly. All the functions work perfectly. I have no problems with 3D Touch, nor with FaceID. The only thing that doesn’t work any more is True Tone. Thank you for the guide.
Just replaced a cracked screen. Took some time but finally managed to do it. Now have a beautiful screen and and a perfectly working device.
Paul L.
Great guide! Unfortunately I now have stripes across the screen (left-right). They are only visible on even grey backgrounds, so it’s not a big issue. Guess I bought a cheap screen, https://www.phone-parts.dk/iphone-xs-ska...
I replaced my screen yesterday and the guides were perfect. Unfortunately, when I went to bed and had my screen on its dimmest setting I noticed that the colors were massively distorted toward the red end of the spectrum. I’m worried that I received a faulty product. The screen otherwise functions perfectly and colors are all normal at any other brightness setting. Please help!
These are not authentic apple screen replacements. I’ve received two different replacement screens now and they’ve both had issues. The first worked mostly fine except when the screen brightness was on its lowest setting the screen would have a strong reddish hue and the resolution would get noisy. The replacement that was sent has different problems, and now I wish I had just kept the original. This one is over saturated, struggles to have even dimming at the lowest brightness setting, the glass itself is not perfectly smooth, and the screen is somehow strangely sensitive, which makes typing and general use of the phone more difficult. At this point I wish I just took it to a certified apple repair shop.
When i lift my screen up and off. all the top mounted components are left behind still attached to the phone ( front camera etc)
also there is some sort of metal protection border in the inside around the perimeter of the phone. blocking access to some screws at the bottom.
has anyone come across this. i cant remove the protection plate.
that is the display frame when you took the old display off you must have accidentally gone between the display and display frame. you will have to buy a new display because the display frame holds the display on the phone
It would be really good to have some (shared) instructions on how to turn off the iPhone when the display and/or digitizer is not working; after all that's why we're doing this! Most guides I've seen say that the instructions are for turning off the phone, but actually they tell you how to force it to restart.
For iPhones without buttons, the sequence seems to be: briefly press volume up, briefly press volume down, press and hold the RH side button. Continue to hold when the display turns off... Continue to hold when the Apple logo shows, then the display will turn off again. Now release the side button. (This is similar to the restart sequence you'll find elsewhere, but those instructions will tell you to release the button when the Apple logo shows.) Clearly the display may be so damaged that you can't see the Apple logo, but you may well be able to tell when the display turns off entirely for the second time. If you can't see any visible change, try holding for about 20s altogether.
TOP!!!!! did it!!!
Hello, My name is Michael and I am in search of some assistance. I recently broke my Iphone XS screen, and I am looking to buy a new one as soon as I can find the exact parts I need. If you sell these products, Please send me a message. If you don't sell these products, But you still know the answer then please message me with a link for a listing for the items that I need. Thanks in advance!!
Also, I am a decent problem solver, But I have never ever changed a Iphone screen. Does anyone know if this sounds like a bad idea? I have background experience with computers and and mobile devices. Id you know of a good tutorial Please DM me with the link. Thanks in advance!
Hi Michael!
You're at the right place! This page contains detailed step-by-step instructions on how to replace the screen for your iPhone XS. I'd suggest that you read through the guide to assess whether it's something you'd feel comfortable doing or not. You can also find the proper part to buy in the "what you need" section in that page. Best of luck!
I have just replaced the screen on my iPhone Xs following this guide for disassembling and the youtube for reassembling without any issues. Great, clear and detailed description. Thank you for saving me from another expensive purchase!
Great post! I repaired my phone in an hour, and you can't tell. I would be careful removing anything near the camera as any damage will cause Face ID to no longer work.
Der Original Akku ist codiert. Egal, ob man einen zweiten Apple Original Akku oder einen neuen Fremdakku einbaut erscheint bereits in den Einstellungen eine "Wichtige Batterienachricht" mit einem roten Punkt. "Unbekanntes Bauteil" und die "Informationen zum Batteriezustand" sind nicht verfügbar. Diese Nachricht verbleibt immer und nervt auf Dauer immens.
Der Akku muss angelernt werden und dieses können von jetzt an nur authorisierte Apple Servicebetriebe und diesen ist es durch Apple verboten die notwendige Info weiterzugeben.
Dies ist nicht zu verwechseln mit der bereits bekannten Rekalibrierung seit iOS 14.5.
Seit dieser neuen Codierung kostet der Akkutausch bei Apple auch nicht mehr 75 € sondern aktuell 99 € (Stand Novmber 2023 in Deutschland).
Damit sind künftig alle nicht authorisierten Servicebetriebe raus - denn wer will schon dauernd diese Mitteilung auf dem Bildschirm haben?
Überlegt vorher, ob unter diesen Bedingungen ein eigener Akkutausch noch sinnvoll ist .....
Manfred Wachtel - Réponse
Lieben Dank @manfredwachtel ! Mehr Infos dazu haben wir auch in unserem Blog zusammengefasst: https://de.ifixit.com/News/78890/teileko...
Sandra Hiller -