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Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic top.
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Lift the top bezel off the iPod. It's glued on using a mild adhesive, so some force may be required.
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Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic bezel.
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Lift the bottom bezel off the iPod. It's glued on using a mild adhesive, so some force may be required.
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Remove the following two screws:
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One #00 Phillips screw with a large head near the headphone jack.
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One #000 Phillips screw with a smaller head near the side of the iPod. This screw strips easily, so be sure to press down firmly on the screwdriver.
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Use a metal spudger to carefully pry the headphone jack out of the casing. DO NOT remove the headphone jack from the iPod entirely, as it is connected via a fragile ribbon connector to the click wheel.
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Slide the headphone jack out until the white plastic housing is no longer held in place by the metal casing.
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Remove the newly-revealed Phillips #00 screw from beneath the headphone jack. Be careful, this screw is easily stripped.
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Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the top of the iPod.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the logic board. You need to gently pry the connector toward (or up, if you like, the connector is like LEGO® building blocks) the front of the iPod until it comes loose from the logic board.
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Special hint for the reassembly: Push the connector inside until it is over the corresponding connector of the logic board. Then insert a thin tool over the connector and push it down onto the logic boards connector.
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Use a spudger to push the logic board through the iPod out of the casing. The click wheel and headphone jack should remain in the iPod.
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When removing the logic board, place the tip of the spudger into the hole where you removed the screw and gently push it out. The crevice will keep it in place and decrease the chance of you damaging your board.
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Completely remove the display and logic board from the metal casing.
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When reassembling, ensure that the battery is well seated. If the fit is too tight, the edge of the display will score the inside of the screen window.
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Use a spudger to scrape away the black glue covering the three battery wires.
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Peel up the orange tape covering the three solder points on the other side of the logic board.
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Place the desoldering wick on top of the existing solder ball.
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Place the soldering iron on top of wick above the existing solder ball.
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Hold the soldering iron in place until the solder melts into the wick.
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Repeat the same procedure on the remaining two connectors.
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Use a metal spudger to carefully straighten the battery wires. Be sure to only touch one contact at a time.
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Pull the battery wires through the logic board to free the battery. If the wires don't easily come free, make sure the wires are straight and all the solder has been removed.
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Slide the three wires of the replacement battery through the holes in the logic board. Going from the edge of the iPod, the order of wires is black, red, white.
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Bend the wires over to prevent them from sliding out of the logic board.
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Place the soldering iron onto the battery wire and metal connector for one to two seconds to heat them up.
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Add the solder wire and wait for the solder to melt onto the wire. Once a small bead has formed around the wire, lift the solder away first and then remove the soldering iron.
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Continue with the other two connections the same way, taking special care not to solder two of the connectors together.
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Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
96 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
45 commentaires
Unfortunately, could not get adhesive off of battery wires without damaging one of the pads. Also, the solder would not flow to the braid and so am unable to clear solder off of holes-not that it matters at this point. Looks like a failure for now.
Firstly, I ruined my iPod because these instructions are inadequate and do not describe the actual difficulty level which is high. Secondly, fluxed desoldering braid of the appropriate size should be INCLUDED in the kit. It's not like one can go to Home Depot and get the stuff, so it should be included. Two inches of the braid out of a 10' roll(which costs on the average $3 retail) is all that would be required. This screwed me. Thirdly, desoldering the tiny battery terminals requires a fine tip iron. No mention of that.
I ruined the Nano but I'm not too upset as I have another one which will need a battery change sometime as well so I'll just save the trashed one to use for parts and use this battery when the time comes. However the iFixit people need to re-evaluate the kit AND the instructions and make some revisions. iFixit assumes that everyone was born with microsoldering skills and has all the appropriate equipment and that is just not true.
All the way on top of the article it says : very difficult.
Just not everybody has the skills or equipment to finish a job like this with good result.
No need to include wick in a kit : if you do electronics repairs, that should be on your bench, always.
Ya know. Common sense sure is passed by when you want someone to hold your hand when you go pee.
Consider what was replied. "Very Difficult". Think of that as
"Expert Level", so some obvious "expert level" knowledge of using these types of tools, you know, common sense, is an obvious requirement. You messed up. Don't blame someone trying to help. That's childish.
