What am I doing right now?
Right now I’m trying to craft the perfect profile page. So far I’m two sentences in and it’s going great.
In a broader sense, I’m working at iFixit as a technical writer, tinkerer, and photographer. I take things apart, figure out how they work, take pictures, and tell everyone about it. Basically, I turned some of my early hobbies into a profession—but now I don’t break things but now I break slightly fewer things.
I spend most of my time in the office writing the best instructions on the internet, but I’ve been lucky enough to work on some other pretty cool projects, too. I’ve appeared on TWiT, helped review a $100 iPhone X, written manuals for Motorola, and consulted on a few engineering and design projects. One time, I even got to fly to Sydney, Australia as part of our team racing to tear down the first iPhone X.
The team in Australia for the iPhone X teardown.
What did I do before right now?
Before I got here and started playing with gadgets, I graduated from Cal Poly SLO with a degree in mechanical engineering, concentrating in mechatronics. As part of my degree I built an autonomous car that could drive upside-down (it also won the tug of war contest), helped start the Cal Poly Prototype Vehicles (PROVE) Lab, and co-designed the suspension for Dawn, PROVE Lab’s land speed record challenging solar car.
Dawn, ready to break records.
On my way to iFixit I worked as a mechatronic engineer for an autonomous ground vehicle manufacturer, a sandwich engineer at a sandwich shop, and a bike mechanic. In terms of skills applicable to everyday life, my experience as a sandwich engineer has proved invaluable (I really enjoy a good sandwich).
HobbiesCycling
Okay I have other hobbies, but I spend most of my free time riding bikes, racing bikes, or doing other bike-related doings.
If I’m not on or near a bike, I’m probably rock climbing, backpacking, taking pictures of things, playing video games, reading a book, watching anime, taking stuff apart, or fixing something that I acquired because it “just needs a little work”.
Hi Rafael, make sure you’ve calibrated your battery first. If that doesn’t fix anything and you’re using an iFixit battery, contact our customer support team and they’ll help you out. Otherwise you can post your question on the Answers Forum—there are a bunch of experts there that can offer advice.
Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!
Thanks for the questions!
1. In theory the phone could still be water resistant, but I definitely wouldn’t expect that unless it was repaired by a professional—even then I’d still be pretty careful. In my experience it’s really easy to compromise ingress protections during a repair, so I generally just assume that my repairs are no longer up to the same water resistance standards as they were before.
2. We test our batteries to make sure they’re up to OE standards. If you aren’t getting close to the same life as you were with your original battery, contact our support team.
Good luck with your repair!
No problem at all! We don’t always have space in the teardown to list all the chips so I’m always happy to answer more specific questions. I also noticed I made a mistake with one of the model numbers which is corrected now. So the pair of 30-contact chips are 3242AZLE, the pair of 40-contact chips are 3442AZLE (added that to the last bullet), the four right 42-contact chips are P13WVR 13612ZLE Z1912GG, and the four left 42-contact chips are PI3DBS 16413ZHE 1907GG.
Thanks for pointing that out, I updated the bullet with a corrected link.
The MegaChips ICs (on the left side above the T2 chip, and on the right between the PCIe slots) are all marked MegaChips MCDP6100C1 1849A905ES. It’s possible they’re USB-C repeaters, like the MCDP6000.
Hi Mark, the hardest part of this guide is dealing with all the adhesive without damaging anything. The back cover and the battery are both heavily glued down. To get the back cover off without cracking it, I’d recommend plenty of heat and very patient and gentle prying. If the prying gets really tough, try heating the back a little more. Removing the battery can be tough as well, but using adhesive remover helps a lot. Follow the steps in the guide and make sure you give the adhesive remover a few minutes to soak in. If prying gets difficult, add a little more adhesive remover and wait a couple minutes before continuing. Hope that helps!
Check out our guide for removing stripped screws!
The vent is holding the logic board in and has to be removed before you can pull out the logic board. Check out our guide on removing stripped screws to get that last screw out!
I’d recommend the 4 mm width for installing the battery. If you want tape for other repairs as well, the 1 mm width is probably more versatile as it can be used to secure smaller parts and fit along the edges of displays. You can lay multiple strips of the 1 mm tape next to each other to secure larger parts if needed.
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