What am I doing right now?
Right now I’m trying to craft the perfect profile page. So far I’m two sentences in and it’s going great.
In a broader sense, I’m working at iFixit as a technical writer, tinkerer, and photographer. I take things apart, figure out how they work, take pictures, and tell everyone about it. Basically, I turned some of my early hobbies into a profession—but now I don’t break things but now I break slightly fewer things.
I spend most of my time in the office writing the best instructions on the internet, but I’ve been lucky enough to work on some other pretty cool projects, too. I’ve appeared on TWiT, helped review a $100 iPhone X, written manuals for Motorola, and consulted on a few engineering and design projects. One time, I even got to fly to Sydney, Australia as part of our team racing to tear down the first iPhone X.
The team in Australia for the iPhone X teardown.
What did I do before right now?
Before I got here and started playing with gadgets, I graduated from Cal Poly SLO with a degree in mechanical engineering, concentrating in mechatronics. As part of my degree I built an autonomous car that could drive upside-down (it also won the tug of war contest), helped start the Cal Poly Prototype Vehicles (PROVE) Lab, and co-designed the suspension for Dawn, PROVE Lab’s land speed record challenging solar car.
Dawn, ready to break records.
On my way to iFixit I worked as a mechatronic engineer for an autonomous ground vehicle manufacturer, a sandwich engineer at a sandwich shop, and a bike mechanic. In terms of skills applicable to everyday life, my experience as a sandwich engineer has proved invaluable (I really enjoy a good sandwich).
HobbiesCycling
Okay I have other hobbies, but I spend most of my free time riding bikes, racing bikes, or doing other bike-related doings.
If I’m not on or near a bike, I’m probably rock climbing, backpacking, taking pictures of things, playing video games, reading a book, watching anime, taking stuff apart, or fixing something that I have because “just needs a little work”.
Hi Mark, the hardest part of this guide is dealing with all the adhesive without damaging anything. The back cover and the battery are both heavily glued down. To get the back cover off without cracking it, I’d recommend plenty of heat and very patient and gentle prying. If the prying gets really tough, try heating the back a little more. Removing the battery can be tough as well, but using adhesive remover helps a lot. Follow the steps in the guide and make sure you give the adhesive remover a few minutes to soak in. If prying gets difficult, add a little more adhesive remover and wait a couple minutes before continuing. Hope that helps!
Check out our guide for removing stripped screws!
The vent is holding the logic board in and has to be removed before you can pull out the logic board. Check out our guide on removing stripped screws to get that last screw out!
I’d recommend the 4 mm width for installing the battery. If you want tape for other repairs as well, the 1 mm width is probably more versatile as it can be used to secure smaller parts and fit along the edges of displays. You can lay multiple strips of the 1 mm tape next to each other to secure larger parts if needed.
Unfortunately we don’t have a guide for the camera lens cover yet. It’s just adhered to the back of the phone, so you should be able to heat it and carefully pry it up, or push it out from the inside of the phone. Before installing the new lens cover make sure you scrape all the old adhesive off of the phone and clean adhesion surface with isopropyl alcohol. Then you should be able to use the provided adhesive to install the new cover. Try not to touch the clear part of the new cover since fingerprints might be tough to clean off.
Also, I’d probably try just replacing the lens cover first and then testing the camera (without sealing the phone closed) and see if that fixes your issue before you replace the whole camera. Hope that helps, and good luck with the repair!
If the black plastic piece with the flood illuminator and the proximity sensor is separated from the flex cable, then Face ID will definitely not work. Be very careful not to damage any of the parts in the front sensor assembly.
Opening your phone and cleaning the board and connectors with a soft brush and isopropyl alcohol should help, but I can’t say for certain that it will fix your phone. It’s important to look for any corrosion and clean that off, then make sure everything is completely dry before reassembling your phone—this guide does a pretty good job of describing how to do that. Make sure you replace your battery if it got wet at all. If nothing was damaged by the water and you make sure everything inside is clean and dry, your phone should work.
Hi Jose, sorry to hear about that! The only other thing I can think of is to make sure that there aren’t any small parts missing on the new display that need to be transferred from the old display. If that doesn’t help then please contact our support team and they’ll get you sorted out!
Based on forums and old manuals, it looks like you might need anywhere from 3-3.6 qt (2.8-3.4 L) of oil depending on the year and model. It’s probably best to look up the capacity of your specific bike and check the oil level view port (as recommended in the last step) to make sure you have the correct amount.
Check out the link to the adhesive card guide in the last step—that should you a pretty good idea of how to prep the phone and battery for installation and how to use our pre-cut adhesive card and apply the adhesive. Let us know if we can change something to make it easier to use!
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