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I Concurr with Bonachera. I almost damaged the pins in the connector trying to twist it into position. The cable retainer holds it in tight and prevents the delicate maneuvering while reinserting the LCD cable. The pins are easily bent and broken. There is a delicate, grey, plastic thin frame holding all the pins neatly in place. After you have carefully reinserted and locked down the cable. then attach the cable retainer.
A head lamp has become an indispensable tool in my laptop repair business.
Used Metal spudger with thin edge- alternating wedge action in between male & female pulling male to the left carefully. alternate pulling top them bottom.
What happened to the very concise step by step produced by iFixit for the 2016, 15” MBP touch Bar.? Why was it taken down?? This new video. while informative doesn’t compare to the multi step picture guide that was removed. Can someone answer this?
I took a short piece of scotch tape and “bundled” the 3 cables together. I kept The screw loop out of the taped bundle. I was able to push the bundle thru the hole including the loop. Using tweezers helped grab the bunch and pull them thru.
Do not pull from the cables end. you will risk separating thin cables from connector head. Use spudger tip to push it out.
This smaller connector cable of the touch ID sensor that sits underneath the power sensor connector is easy to overlook when replacing the logic board. It is small & short and can easily hide. Make sure you account for it when placing the LB in and before screwing it down.
Both had a dab of glue underneath. I used heat gun to loosen.
I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!
At this point I Jump to step 30 . I do not use the liquid adhesive remover method. I use a silicone rubber kitchen food scooper. The scoop end is a soft, silicone rubber material with a beveled edge. The handle is a hard plastic. This tool I’ve used in about 50 retina battery swaps. No floss, credit cards or metal spatulas for me.. The angle of the ends and the rubber pliability combined with the hard plastic handle is ideal. After a few repairs you will get better at it. Be careful when applying pressure or leveraging to get between battery and base. You don’t want to slip & “overshoot” the scoop end into the logic board. EASY DOES IT…Save yourself the mess of applying the liquid. I can remove a battery in 10 minutes. Here’s the link to this tool that I found in my GF’s kitchen:
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Voici un aperçu de ce à quoi ressemble ce graphique :
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