jayeff

Hi @stuig, I suggest that you replace the backlight LED strips or replace all the faulty LEDs and then check if the backlight stays on without the flickering. Other LEDs may also be on the verge of failing and this may be causing them to cause variations to the current flowing through them affecting the brightness.

Hi, Here’s the owner manual Here’s a link to the parts if you need any. There are other parts suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for 385.16126200 parts to get results.

Hi @smittyc , Try to reset the machine as shown in the image below. (click on image to enlarge)

Hi @Hai long Pham You may have to try a full power refresh. This involves removing the main battery and then disassembling the laptop and then possibly removing the motherboard so that you can disconnect the RTC battery from the motherboard and then pressing the power button for a full 30 seconds. Then reconnect the RTC battery and re-assemble the laptop and insert the main battery and connect the charger and try turning it on. I don’t know your laptop model, so I say possibly removing the motherboard from the case as I cannot see the battery when viewing this disassembly video so I think that it is on the underside of the motherboard as it is on some other Asus motherboards I’ve seen. Note: When you have removed the RTC battery, measure its voltage. If it is <2.5VDC, replace it. These batteries are a non-rechargeable Lithium battery which usually last about 5 years. Their function is to maintain the BIOS settings when the laptop is turned off. When the voltage gets low, sometimes the settings can become...

Hi @alsjdkflks, You should be able to buy an alligator clip (example only) and slide it onto the end of the lead. If it is too loose or too tight you can either crimp it on or expand the opening a bit to suit. Here’s a zoomed in image taken from the 5th image for the part in the ad, to show where I mean. (click on image to enlarge) There are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for alligator clip

Hi @ohno89 , What is the make and model number of the refrigerator? Check that the door seals are OK. Place a piece of paper between the door(s) and the door jamb and with the door closed, try to pull it out. It will come out with a bit of effort but it definitely shouldn't fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door(s), on the top, bottom and both sides. Check that the refrigerator condenser coils (you didn’t state the model so they can be either mounted on the back of the cabinet or under the compartments near the compressor unit) are clean and free from dust. If clogged with dust etc this will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system by not allowing the heat from the refrigerant flowing through it to escape more rapidly. What was/is the ice build up like on the evaporator unit? If it is being defrosted correctly there will be very little between defrost cycles but if there is a defrost problem not all the ice may be melted during the defrost cycle and it will build up more over...

Hi, Is there any obvious visible damage to the magnetron itself e.g terminals blackened, cracked magnets, burnt antenna dome or any black heat marks on other parts close to it? Blackened connections could mean loose or badly crimped connections causing heat. The other problems may be due to overheating caused by microwaves reflected back to the magnetron . You don’t state the model but has it got a stirrer blade and is it working OK? Check the resistance of the magnetron with an Ohmmeter. Normal test is ∞ (infinity) i.e. infinite resistance or open circuit (OL) if you like. Any other reading means that it is faulty. If the magnetron tests OK then you may have to look for another reason why the fuse blows. Have you measured the resistance of the HV transformer?

Hi @chaseyoung14 , Don’t know about an easy fix as there may be a problem with the ice maker itself e.g. motor turning but auger isn’t perhaps. Here’s the start of the ice maker tests from the service manual for the refrigerator (see p.18 thru to 21). Note: If in doubt about whether the manual is for your model, see p.1 to verify that your model number is also shown. Also perhaps run the full diagnostics test for the refrigerator and check if an error code 10 or 11 appears (see p.17 for description of code).

Hi @mcofficalplays , Why not backup your phone to the cloud or a PC and then do a factory reset? After the reset, test if the BT works OK or not in factory default mode. That way at least you will know whether it is either a hardware or a software problem. You can always restore it back to what it was before by using the backup.

Hi @dianne30_75 You have to review each number in the CID list for this list counter to go back to 0 (zero). Every time a new call comes in, the CID (caller ID) number is entered into a list. With most phone systems, the number is only displayed for a short while before the display changes to let you know how many calls are in the list that you haven't checked, if you didn't notice the number when the phone first rang. What is the make and model number of your phone? Look in the user manual to find out how to review the numbers. The numbers in the list are still there after you have reviewed them unless you delete them from the list or the list overflows (so systems only store 50 numbers) BUT the "new" call counter information will be either 0 or whatever the number of calls that are left that you haven't yet reviewed i.e. if you only review 2 calls then it will show 28 etc.

The 3rd wire from a battery is usually connected to a thermistor attached to the battery which signals the temperature (resistance value changes with temp) to the battery management circuit in the motherboard.

Charging will be halted to if it got too hot before being fully charged, which may create problems e.g. a fire

If leaving the 3rd wire disconnected, the battery should not be left unsupervised whilst it is charging

Hi @captainsnowball ,

FYI

voilà French exclamation - meaning “There it is!” or “There you are!”

The “red thing” in Step 3 is most probably an IR filter, to filter out visible light to improve IR operation