On the question of adhesives - the one place I worried about was the digitizer circuit board. The old adhesive was not strong enough to hold it in place. I put a small drop of contact cement on the bottom side of the board and that seemed to hold it. For all other areas except the glass (i.e. mostly tape) saved everything I peeled off and put it back during the reassembly. For the glass, which came with an adhesive strip around its edge, I used the heating pad and some small plastic clamps to hold it in place while it cooled. Seemed to do the trick.
Overall these instructions are very good and they work fine provided you take your time and read them all once or twice _before_ starting to do the job.
It must have been pretty bad. Mine was shattered in several places around the edge and I was able to repair it. It was not as simple as just following the instructions - it took me more than 2 hours just to get the glass off - the whole repair is supposed to be a 2 hour job, LOL
I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.
I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.
Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.
Lorsqu'il en aura reçu, il pourra afficher un graphique de sa réputation au fil du temps.
Voici un aperçu de ce à quoi ressemble ce graphique :
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