E West

It looks as though you've inadvertently separated the display assembly from its bracket. This isn't uncommon, as the display assembly has a tendency to separate like that in the 5/5s/5c. Look around the edges and see if you can't find a thin plastic bezel still clipped into the body of the phone. You can use a guitar pick or spudger to get a little separation, which should allow you some purchase to pry the bracket up. Assuming you've removed the two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the phone on either side of the lightning port (you have removed those screws, right?) the bracket should pop up from the bottom much like the display assembly has in the photo you provided.

You'll need an adapter.

First you should make sure that the drivers are all up-to-date by visiting Asus's support site (https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ASUS-ZenBook-UX330UA/HelpDesk_Download/) and checking for driver updates for your system. You should check that your Windows updates are current as well. If there are no available updates you should talk to Asus about what you can to do to fix the issue and keep your warranty intact, as doing DIY repairs will usually invalidate any warranties. The good news is that the repair should be an easy one, so it's possible you could get your notebook back quickly, depending on parts availability and the techs' backlog.

Did some hunting and found this part number in an ebay listing: p/n 3722-003700. I've cross-referenced it with other listings and it appears legit. Good luck with the project!

barb: It's hard to diagnose stuff over the internet, but I'd guess you could have the digitizer replaced. I'd suggest you get an estimate from a repair shop and decide from there.

The LCD itself is likely lost, but it can be replaced. The top answer on this post explains how: How do I replace a cracked screen?

Unfortunately, parts for your phone would be difficult and relatively expensive to find. If you're set on fixing the phone you have, I'd suggest taking it to a repair shop that offers microsoldering services. It looks to be a pretty straightforward soldering job to replace the micro USB port. The problem is that finding the right part and installing it will likely cost you more than the cost to replace the phone. Ebay has a couple of listings for that phone in the $30-$45 range, which is probably less than what a shop will charge you for the labor, let alone the parts.

Battery problems can cause that to happen. Double check the battery connector. If that seems to be OK, try swapping out the battery for one you know is good and see if it boots.

For some reason iPhones have an annoying habit of rebooting while you're waiting for the firmware file to download. Thankfully, you can download the firmware file through your browser and select it manually in iTunes, so the phone doesn't have to wait for iTunes to download 2.5+ GB. Go to https://ipsw.me/ , locate your model and download the latest IPSW (Apple's iOS firmware file type). ipsw.me links to Apple's firmware servers, so the latest versions are digitally signed, which means you can use them in iTunes. Put your phone into recovery mode and connect it to your computer. Cancel any dialog options asking if you want to restore or update until you are at the phone's landing page. There should be two buttons on the righthand side of the iTunes window marked "Check for updates" and "Restore iPhone..." On Mac, hold down the "alt/option" key while left-clicking on "Restore iPhone...", and you'll have the option to choose the firmware file you wish to restore with. On Windows, hold down the shift key while...

It may be that the display assembly isn't seated correctly. Try following the display assembly replacement walkthrough up to step 11 and reseating the tabs located at the top of the device. Be careful when closing the device, as trying to force the display together against resistance may cause damage to the LCD or digitizer. If your device is still loose, it may be because the 6s has light adhesive between the display assembly and frame, which your replacement may not have. You may be able to substitute 1mm Tesa tape (Tesa 61395 Tape) to help secure the loose portion. I haven't tried this myself, but I have used that tape for similar fixes on other devices to great success. If your display was broken because of drop damage, it may be that the frame was bent in the impact. This seems to be a particular problem for the 5 and 5s, but it may happen in the 6s as well. There's not much you can really do about that. If this is your problem I'd suggest keeping your phone in a case and regularly praying to...

@Adam Bacon Heat guns are quite inexpensive. The model she uses in this video runs about $20 or less in most shops. A blow dryer may work, but it’s difficult to say for certain. The adhesive Samsung uses is pretty robust. If you find yourself fixing a lot of devices you should really consider investing in a heat gun.

I would actually recommend unplugging the battery cable before removing the Torx screws. The screws will give additional leverage and stability, and help keep the thin daughterboard-like portion of the logic board from flexing too much.

Yes. The ribbon cable may also be covered with a small sheet of thin black tape.

And here is why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYETzuYl...

A person would need to do some bulk stealing to justify all that kit.

I found it helpful, though you're right that it could use a lot of work.

You neglected to mention a screw that holds the motherboard to the display assembly. It can be found to the lower right of the headphone jack and should be removed immediately prior to step 17.

To others who may come along, the USB/daughterboard assembly is affixed to the display chassis with mild adhesive. The daughterboard is VERY flexible and should be removed with caution. I used the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the board up from the chassis by going underneath the cabling on the lefthand side.

Thanks!

The non-magnetic standoff receives the non-magnetic phillips screw that holds the display plate. Those fasteners are non-magnetic because they're located near components related to telephony. I've seen reports that using ferromagnetic fasteners at this location can cause interference with the cell radio, but I've yet to personally confirm that. I try to use only non-magnetic fasteners at these points just to be on the safe side.

I used both P#000 and J#00 precision bits to good effect. I tend to prefer the Japanese Standard bits in place of Philips, as the JIS bits seem not to cam out and strip screws as easily.