I’m Arthur—technical writer, teardown engineer, researcher, and photographer at iFixit.
I have the illustrious honor of taking devices apart, identifying components, figuring out how things work, and showing others how to fix stuff. In addition, I perform electrical analysis and research how emergent tech works.
A day at the office: working on Google Pixel 3 guides
I graduated from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo with a master’s degree in electrical engineering, with a focus on control systems and mechatronics. Along the way, I designed high efficiency DC power circuits, grew organic OLED panels in a vacuum, and programmed a small swarm of robots to autonomously navigate and map out a cluttered room. My thesis work involved training neural networks to detect hidden structural faults in commercial buildings using acceleration sensor data. I enjoy both the theoretical and practical hands-on nature of my degree.
Making single pixel OLED panels in vacuum
“By teaching, we learn”
Much of my time at iFixit is spent instructing people how to fix stuff by writing step-by-step repair guides. So far, I’ve written over 180 guides for devices ranging from Rug Doctors to iPads. As I research, disassemble, and document repair procedures, I’m always learning something new. Working on smartphones necessitated a good understanding of how lithium-ion batteries work; writing Rug Doctor guides taught me how to remove rivets— something I haven’t had to deal with in smartphones…yet.
Installing a rivet onto the Rug Doctor
I am also a member of iFixit’s team of teardown engineers, publishing informative, in-depth reports on the inner workings of newly-released gadgets such as the Magic Leap One and the iPhone XS. These teardowns include chip analysis and explanations for complicated concepts (such as waveguides) in layman’s terms.
Identifying chips for the iPhone XS
I’m curious by nature; I enjoy exploring long-forgotten roads, trying non-mainstream food, and disassembling new smartphones! I like retro, well-designed mechanical machines; I own four typewriters and drive a Suzuki Samurai.
Driving the Sammy on Quatal Canyon road
Les vues éclatées auxquelles j'ai participé
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Les tutoriels auxquels j'ai contribué
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Les tutoriels que j'ai aidé à traduire
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Mes tutoriels favoris
Jeep Repair— 2013 jeep Sahara hood wont openCommunity member @jlew04's question has been moved here: Installed grill guard now hood won’t open or release enough to...
Réponse à : « My USB only works when under pressure »It sounds like a physical connection issue either in the USB nano-receiver or at the port. It could be that the nano-receiver’s connectors are loose or dirty, and applying pressure makes it sufficiently contact the computer USB’s port pins. Try cleaning the receiver’s connectors as well as trying a different USB port. You can also try to use pliers to slightly squeeze the top & bottom of the receiver so that it fits into a USB port tighter. It may also be possible (though less likely) that a solder joint in the receiver has broken—applying pressure bridges the broken contact. That would require some careful board inspection and soldering. You can also buy a new receiver for your mouse. Just make sure it’s compatible with your mouse model.
Réponse à : « How does flood illumator look on ear speaker for iPhone X »You can see the flood illuminator in the second image here: Remplacement de l'ensemble haut-parleur interne et capteurs avant de l'iPhone X If you are asking which traces in the flex cable is responsible for the flood illuminator, I can’t help you with that. As far as I understand, unfortunately the entire front sensor assembly is paired with the iPhone and must be transferred over to retain FaceID
Réponse à : « electrical cord replacement on shark rocket HV301 »Hi Jan, Does the power cord easily disconnect from the vacuum cleaner? If not, I can offer two options: (1) Repair the current power cord. If done correctly, this is a much cheaper option and is perfectly safe and durable. You would just have to cut out a bit of the power cord, strip the wires, solder, and adequately shrink-wrap/insulate them. If you don’t feel comfortable doing that, any local repair shop or electrician should be able to help you out. They also should not charge you very much for the simple repair. (2) Buy a generic replacement vacuum cleaner power line. You can find them online by searching for “shark vacuum cleaner power cord”. Any one that has 3 wires would work. You can even choose how long you’d like it to be! However, the tricky part would be to re-attach the cord to the vacuum cleaner, as they did not make the cord easily replaceable. This may unfortunately require disassembly.
Réponse à : « Logic board replacement iPhone SE »Unless the battery leaked, the logic board should not just die from neglect. Was the phone working perfectly before? Chances are the battery has slowly drained below a “safe” voltage, and the power management refuses to charge it. There is a chance that the power management is broken. If that’s the case, then a logic board replacement/microsoldering repair would be needed.
Réponse à : « How do you open the mouse »Try following this guide to open up your mouse.
Réponse à : « Safe Note 7 battery? »Hi Miguel, It may be possible, but not safe to use the Note 7 battery in the FE, even though it would connect. The Note 7 battery is slightly bigger physically than the FE’s and trying to fit it into the FE would increase the chance of fire.
Réponse à : « I can't login in forgot password »You can try to factory reset the tablet. Doing so will wipe all user data/apps from the tablet. (1) Make sure the tablet is charged. Losing power while performing the factory reset may brick your tablet. (2) Turn the tablet off. (3) Hold the [volume up] button and the [power] button. Continue holding until you see “Android System Recovery” show on the screen. Release all buttons after you see that. (4) Use the volume buttons to scroll to the “wipe data/factory reset” option. Use the [power] button to select it. (5) Press the [power] button to confirm the user prompts.
Réponse à : « My KitchenAid KSM7586PCA 7-Quart Pro line burned »Hi Claudete, It looks like there is no easy fusible link to replace, so something is probably burned out on the control board. Follow this guide to take the mixer apart to the control board (step 6). See if you can see any burned components. If you reply with a picture of the board (like this), we may be able to help identify what part is burned out. The cheapest solution may be to buy a replacement board, or go to an electronics repair shop.
Réponse à : « iPhone X / XS Loudspeaker Compatibility »Visually, it does not look like they are. The X loudspeaker has a notch in the bottom right corner to accommodate a screw post. iPhone X loudspeaker iPhone XS loudspeaker
Réponse à : « Which parts/kits needed to replace LCD&Dig and Battery on iPh 7+? »Hey Keith, You basically need to make sure you cover all the tools and parts in the battery and screen guides. In your case, there are two major routes: (1) Full screen kit (and guide link), which includes many small parts already pre-mounted on it, making replacement much easier. The kit will also have all the tools you’ll need for a battery replacement. You would just need to purchase the following parts: (1.1) Replacement battery (1.2) Replacement battery strips (2) Bare LCD and digitizer (guide link), which is tailored for more experienced repairers. Since that is a bare part, you will need to purchase all the tools and parts (like the stickers and adhesive) listed in the guide, in additional to the battery & battery strips.
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