This instruction guide is only about 3/4 complete. There are several small items that must be transferred to your new display with frame that are shown still attached to the frame in the above photos. These items are:
- Rubber piece for Upper Microphone (grey, upper left of frame)
- Rubber piece for Lower Microphone (grey, lower middle just to the left of the charging port)
- Rubber piece for seating the Proximity Sensor (black, upper middle just to the right of the earpiece speaker)
- Earpiece Speaker (upper middle of frame)
- Vibrator motor (round silver part on right side of frame)
- Contact Flex cable (gold) and Rubber Gasket (black) for Loudspeaker (lower left)
- Headphone Jack (black, lower right)
Many “Display Assemblies with Frame” do not come with these items pre-installed. If you do not transfer these parts to your new display the phone will not function properly.
Getting this back cover off with 4 little picks is nothing less than Fake News. The picks (and a halberd spudger) were good for cutting through adhesive on the outer edges, but a fair amount of heat and several plastic “playing cards” were needed to get to the adhesive holding down the cover on the middle of the device. Be VERY CAREFUL as you near the charging coil…2 little connectors near the bottom right could be easily severed. Take your time, use heat and patience.
During reassembly this is where you want to reconnect the battery then power up the device to test. Make sure the LCD, digitizer, home button, etc., are functioning properly BEFORE you seal it up.
After removing the Ear Speaker it is a great time to also remove the VOLUME BUTTON FLEX. It can be seen at the top right of the photo in Step 8. It’s a little blurry, but you can see it. If you don’t transfer this item to the new unit you will be unable to control volume. This is an important step! ''
You will need to use an iOpener or apply heat to separate the digitizer, especially if the glass is shattered. The bottom near the home button and the entire top portion has thick strips of black adhesive.
^This! An iOpener or heat is a MUST when separating the digitizer and LCD. There is no way the digitizer just pops off. This is especially important if the digitizer is cracked and spider-webbed.
This instruction guide is only about 3/4 complete. There are several small items that must be transferred to your new display with frame that are shown still attached to the frame in the above photos. These items are:
- Rubber piece for Upper Microphone (grey, upper left of frame)
- Rubber piece for Lower Microphone (grey, lower middle just to the left of the charging port)
- Rubber piece for seating the Proximity Sensor (black, upper middle just to the right of the earpiece speaker)
- Earpiece Speaker (upper middle of frame)
- Vibrator motor (round silver part on right side of frame)
- Contact Flex cable (gold) and Rubber Gasket (black) for Loudspeaker (lower left)
- Headphone Jack (black, lower right)
Many “Display Assemblies with Frame” do not come with these items pre-installed. If you do not transfer these parts to your new display the phone will not function properly.
If possible, disconnect the battery BEFORE you undo the screen connector. The battery flex is on the left, just under the LCD cable assembly.
Getting this back cover off with 4 little picks is nothing less than Fake News. The picks (and a halberd spudger) were good for cutting through adhesive on the outer edges, but a fair amount of heat and several plastic “playing cards” were needed to get to the adhesive holding down the cover on the middle of the device. Be VERY CAREFUL as you near the charging coil…2 little connectors near the bottom right could be easily severed. Take your time, use heat and patience.
ALWAYS disconnect the battery BEFORE disconnecting any cables!
During reassembly this is where you want to reconnect the battery then power up the device to test. Make sure the LCD, digitizer, home button, etc., are functioning properly BEFORE you seal it up.
After removing the Ear Speaker it is a great time to also remove the VOLUME BUTTON FLEX. It can be seen at the top right of the photo in Step 8. It’s a little blurry, but you can see it. If you don’t transfer this item to the new unit you will be unable to control volume. This is an important step! ''
You forgot to mention that the volume button flex needs to be transferred from the original unit.
You will need to use an iOpener or apply heat to separate the digitizer, especially if the glass is shattered. The bottom near the home button and the entire top portion has thick strips of black adhesive.
^This! An iOpener or heat is a MUST when separating the digitizer and LCD. There is no way the digitizer just pops off. This is especially important if the digitizer is cracked and spider-webbed.