Matt

Have a Macbook 2010 unibody that restarts when I shut down via Apple Menu. I can shut down only by pressing the power...

I recently swapped the display in my Macbook Late 2006. It was cracked and I found a cheap working display on eBay . The...

My Macbook Mid-2009 El Capitan loses date and time when I unplug it from AC power. And when I boot up, there’s a delay of...

Macbook Air 13" 2013. It seems like I bent the connector of the USB port on the left side, somehow. It was working fine...

I just got a used Macbook Pro 13" 2011 and the battery checks out as okay, but I'm having a problem with the computer...

Here's an odd one. Odd, because the problem isn't permanent. I'm running a Macbook Pro Core 2 Duo 15" from 2006. I've...

I just got a great deal on a used Mac Pro 2008 with a single Quad Core 2.8 processor. The seller provided a 2nd identical...

Just followed the iFixit guide to install a new Superdrive in my iMac but it isn't recognized by the system or by Toast....

I've just swapped out the original 120GB non-SSD from my A1307 (2009) Air, with a 1.8" Toshiba LIF SSD 128GB. Any reason...

Press power but no response other than display flashes once for a second and then goes black. No chime or front sleep...

Same problem. I had to change the magsafe board because it wasn’t charging. Everything seemed to go okay, but now the MB doesn’t boot. The charging light comes on when the magsafe charger is connected, so that problem might be solved. I’ve tried the suggested tape method to slide the keyboard cable into the connector better, but still no go. So, I want to ask just HOW FAR the cable has to be inserted? I can just see a thin line of metal contacts on the cable when it is inserted. Should it go in far enough so that you DON’T see the contacts? On the iFixit page about changing the top case, the foto in the take apart shows the thin line of contacts just before removing the cable. See STEP 14 here: Remplacement du boîtier supérieur MacBook Unibody modèle A1342 I’ve fixed a fair number of MacBooks, but if the problem here is not the cable then I guess I fried the motherboard.

This problem just surfaced on my Late 2011 MacBook Pro 15" with Nvidia card. Just wanted to ask about the Hardware mod mentioned on the Real Mac Mods website. Is it necessary? Is it only to avoid problems after your reset SMC and/or NVRAM? If you do the rest of the software mods (booting from Linux, etc.), will that work alone? Many thanks.

Still testing. Charged battery to 100% and then started running off battery. Estimated time remaining is 15 hours, so obviously out of whack. But, from 100% down to 79% (when the computer shut down again), I got a good 3 hours out of the battery. As regards the battery brand: Coconut Battery says it's made by SIMPLO, which I read online is an original supplier of batteries to Apple.

Hi. Thanks for the fast reply. Is there any way to check if the battery is original or a knock off, using the information from, say, Coconut Battery? The person I bought it from said he used it 95% of the time at home, as a workstation with external keyboard and mouse. That would explain the fact it had only 3 charge cycles, perhaps. If that's the case, is there a way to "recondition" the battery, or reset it in some way? The battery stats look pretty good, i.e. that it has 87% of the original capacity left. Would there be any use in unplugging and removing the battery, to try to reset it?

I just replaced the processors in my 2006 Mac Pro and they've provided a big boost. Lots of instructions on the web, just google it. The original processors were the 2.66 Dual-Cores and I swapped them with 2 x 2.66 Quad-Cores: two X5355 processors that cost a total of Euro 120 shipped. The prices have really come down. As to fans, I have what sounds like a noisy one that makes a "plasticky" sound, as if it's going to rev up, but then stops. But it isn't the front or rear fan. I can hear the noise about the middle point of the top of the computer, as if behind the hard drives. Is there a fan there? Does anyone know where to get a service manual for the 2006 Pro?

Do you mean the original system disks for the Macbook? Not sure I have those, will have to check. But I don't think they were for 10.6. I have a Retail Snow Leopard DVD. Is that okay? As to zeroing the drive, what about just using a different HD? And just to reiterate, I did already try to install from the Retail 10.6 disk and, as I described above, the MB started booting from the DVD but then blanked out after about 1 minute (black screen, in a kind of deep sleep, not responding to keys but not shut down either). So I have already tried that. I was hoping for something I could do in the current situation. That is, I've finally managed to get something positive: the MB boots in FW disk mode, and its HD can be used to boot another Mac in FW disk mode, which is the current situation I'm in. I've left it in FW mode while waiting to decide what to do. And it also seems that the 10.6.8 install I tried before seems to have completed okay. What about cloning my current working 10.6.7 system from the 2.1 Ghz...

I had the same problem as the first poster. 2007 Core2Duo Macbook worked fine on AC and from charged battery, but did not charge the battery. The same battery, charged in another Macbook, worked and lasted for 4 hours. The problematic Macbook still recognized the battery, with System Profiler showing the full charge capacity (4500 mAh), percentage remaining, and charge cycles. Even though it cannot charge the battery, it still shows the full charge capacity even when the battery is fully drained. Just had a very big problem with the battery. I had charged it in another Macbook, and was using it in the problematic Macbook. It lasted for about 4 hours before being fully drained. I was out of town and at that point I used the Macbook plugged into AC. When I got home, I went to charge the drained battery in another Macbook, but to my surprise I found that the battery was completely dead. Would not charge and showed 0 full charge capacity. Power cords check out fine. The 2nd Macbook is able to charge its own...

Congratulations on getting the keyboard working by replacing the flex cable. I'm going thru a rough period where I've had 3 different Macbooks with keyboard/trackpad problems. I replaced 2 entire top cases (2007 Macbooks) and the problem went away, but now it's come back on one of the Macbooks. Power button works, but keyboard and trackpad don't work once computer has booted. With the 3rd Macbook, from 2008, it's a slightly different problem: the power button works and the Macbook boots fine, but the keyboard and trackpad don't work; external USB and Bluetooth keyboards and mice work. I thought it was a bad keyboard, but the keyboard from this Macbook works on another Macbook; and a working keyboard doesn't work on this Macbook. So it looks like the Macbook has some problems re. the connection to the logic board. Do you think? Any ideas greatly appreciated. I've taken lots of Mac portables apart over the years, but these Macbooks seem to have very fragile keyboard connectors, whether it's the flex cable or...

Slightly different question.

I’d like to replace the Wall Plug on the long AC cord included with the Magsafe. The one I have is for UK outlets, but I’d like to remove and replace it with a “Schuko” type plug, which for me in Europe is more convenient. I don’t want to use those little plastic adapter kit things.

Is there anything I should be careful with here? Or is the wiring pretty straightforward? What about grounding?

Just asking basically if it would be a standard kind of electrical cord change, or if the Magsafe has anything particularly different about it.

Thanks.

Quick Question: I seem to have an "extra" cable on my White Macbook (2007, IIRC) LCD. If you look at foto for Step 52 above, I have a thin BLUE cable running down the right-hand side - near the silver one - that goes down between the hinge and the edge of the back cover and then along the edge behind the inverter and then behind the other hinge, then goes up towards the LCD panel and is taped together in a 3-cable bunch with the 2 thin cables you can see on the left of of foto 52. This blue cable has the same "tip" as the other 2 in the foto.

Any ideas? Thanks.

I'm working on 3 different Macbooks, and having Keyboard/Trackpad probs with a 2.0 Mid-2007, a 2.16 Mid-2007, and a 2.1 Early 2008.

The Black 2.16 Black seemed to have a faulty logic board and wouldn't start up. I swapped the logic board from the 2.0 White into the Black and it fired up right away. Good news. I then put the Black 2.16 logic board into the White "just for fun". And it started up just fine too! Weird, but good news.

But the new Black KB/TP (from eBay) has just stopped working after 2 weeks. The power button works to start up, but that's it. No KB or TP activity at all. I've tried it on both Macbooks.

And now the White KB/TP, installed on the Black, stopped working. Starts up, but no KB/TP. Causes? Any compatibility problems? IIRC the cables are all silver.

And the 2.1 2008: it starts and works fine, but NOT the KB/TP: either its own, or from a 2.0 C2D. And its KB/TP works on OTHER Macbooks. Any ideas?

P.S. know of any guides on replacing upper case Flex Cables (2007-08)?