This sentence: “If you are not replacing the drums, keep in mind that the rear wheel hub bolt that holds the bearing in place must be torqued to 175 ft-lbs.”
Is misleading. It is better written as “If you remove the wheel hub bolt, which holds the bearing, keep in mind it must be reinstalled with torque of 175 ft-lbs.”
This is because if you are not replacing the drum, then you can still remove the four bolts around back.
Also, some installers swear the nut on some vehicles is 30mm AND that it should not be used more than TWICE. YMMV, but if your car is USED, I’d recommend replacing the nut the first time if you ever do this.
But if possible, it’s better to do the four bolts on the back - at the very least it will save you buying a 29 or 30mm socket.
The heading is wrong. This is the procedure for pulling the drum WITHOUT the spindle and bearing!
The heading is wrong. This is the procedure for pulling the drum WITH the spindle and bearing!
Grease is always part of any brake job. Always has been. As instructed, it will never have any effect on braking performance. Even if some got on the shoe it would largely be irrelevant after a short while as it would be vaporized from the friction.
And the procedure is the same 00 to 11 supposedly. At least for the US/Canada as it’s all the same platform.
You have confused and SWAPPED the “removed the wheel bearing with the brake drum” on both the take-apart and install. When you “remove the wheel bearing with” it means the center spindle, nut and cap all STAY in place and you undo and replace the 4 bolts on the back - everything comes off in ONE PIECE. Not the other way around.
This needs to be fixed for this guide to make sense.
Lorsqu'il en aura reçu, il pourra afficher un graphique de sa réputation au fil du temps.
Voici un aperçu de ce à quoi ressemble ce graphique :
Aucun point de réputation obtenu pour l'instant.