Done! The gear was still there but it was almost totally off the shaft. I applied a small dab of Gorilla glue in the gear and pressed it back on. And now I have a printer again!
While I've never broken a flex cable I've resigned myself to the fact that an iPad with aftermarket adhesive holding the digitizer in place will never hold together as well as the factory glue. I inform people of this before starting the repair and when I hand it back I have kapton tape holding the digitizer in place externally. I usually recommend they get an otterbox style of case to help hold it and to hide the tape. It sucks, but it's better than a broken iPad.
There is a drain in the back of that area that may be clogged. My mother in law has the same issue and I hope to try and fix hers in the next couple of days. I found some information at http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/85hp...-good-evening-i-whirlpool-gold-gi6fdrxxy-fridge-french.html
Is there anything stuck in the headphone jack? Have you backed up the phone, and then reset the phone to factory settings and tried to use the speaker before restoring your backup? Beyond that it sounds like it might be an issue with the logic board.
I read this: iPhone won't power on after repair. and decided to hook the phone up to my computer. It was in restore mode and would not come out. I clicked the Restore button in iTunes and it went through the process and the phone is now working fine!
I don't see "rear edge" anywhere in the instructions. I do see "lower edge" a few times and it looks pretty clear to me. I did this repair a couple years ago without much trouble.
The metal washers appear to have come from the bottom side of the lightning connector. Underneath the four screws. Two of mine were stuck on the old part that I had removed. I noticed this after installing the parts.
This may work fine for most dirt, but with the original design there is also a cloth mesh behind the metal mesh that helps to keep finer particles out of the speaker.
This is definitely a much much much easier way to get some sort of protection in there at least. :)
You have the wrong style of guitar pick. You need the one that comes with most apple tool kits (but have no purpose on an apple) that is much thicker and has three edges that are thinner. These edges will act in a similar fashion as the oOpener tool.
Thanks for the detailed teardown. Is there any possibility or reassembly with the different orange models?
P.S. Yes, I realize it is now the 3rd of April. :)
When lifting the logic board I also lift the front facing camera from the back of the iPod. It has a small amount of foam adhesive holding it down. I simply hook it from above, in the space where the screw holds it. Once the camera is free and still attached to the logic board you can lift the board much higher and fit fat fingers behind it to plug in the digitizer cable.
Be careful though. If you get too happy with this new found space you may end up putting too much tension on the volume cable.
I have used this technique on about 5 iPods now and it has been flawless for me.
I don't see "rear edge" anywhere in the instructions. I do see "lower edge" a few times and it looks pretty clear to me. I did this repair a couple years ago without much trouble.
I would think it would be the touch screen. The job isn't too difficult and the part was cheap on eBay.
I don't have the phone anymore, but a quick search for "T679M battery" on eBay found this for me:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Samsung-T759-T679...
It's worth a try. I wouldn't count on it lasting as the adhesive probably has dirt on it which will make it less likely to hold.
The metal washers appear to have come from the bottom side of the lightning connector. Underneath the four screws. Two of mine were stuck on the old part that I had removed. I noticed this after installing the parts.
Can you explain this in a little more detail?
I have done a dozen or more iPod screens without any issue. I have one here now that does nothing. Just a black screen. It won't even take a charge.
Should I simply desolder those pads and then resolder? Sort of like unplugging and replugging to reset something?
Thanks!
Rene
This may work fine for most dirt, but with the original design there is also a cloth mesh behind the metal mesh that helps to keep finer particles out of the speaker.
This is definitely a much much much easier way to get some sort of protection in there at least. :)
You have the wrong style of guitar pick. You need the one that comes with most apple tool kits (but have no purpose on an apple) that is much thicker and has three edges that are thinner. These edges will act in a similar fashion as the oOpener tool.
Thanks for the detailed teardown. Is there any possibility or reassembly with the different orange models?
P.S. Yes, I realize it is now the 3rd of April. :)
When lifting the logic board I also lift the front facing camera from the back of the iPod. It has a small amount of foam adhesive holding it down. I simply hook it from above, in the space where the screw holds it. Once the camera is free and still attached to the logic board you can lift the board much higher and fit fat fingers behind it to plug in the digitizer cable.
Be careful though. If you get too happy with this new found space you may end up putting too much tension on the volume cable.
I have used this technique on about 5 iPods now and it has been flawless for me.
Glad I helped!
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