shamino

Water damage can cause all kinds of problems, some of which may not be fixable without a board replacement. Assuming your device doesn’t have permanent damage, the important thing is to try and get all the water out of the phone. If you haven’t already done so, turn the phone off and put it in a bag of rice (or silica gel packets, if you have them) for a day or two. This should help to draw any moisture out of the phone. Simply leaving it out in the air or trying to shake out the water will not generally work to remove all of the moisture, and it doesn’t take very much to short out a circuit trace. This may not be enough to get everything working, but it should definitely be one of the first things you try whenever you have a water-damaged electronic device. You should seriously consider having a repair shop look at it, even if it starts working after it is dried out. Corrosion on the circuits is progressive and will eventually kill the board if it is not properly cleaned and the damage repaired.

My guess is that they expect media professionals (the obvious target market) to be using their own audio interfaces, probably attached via USB or Thunderbolt.

Which is perfectly understandable, since most people running a desktop system (who care about sound quality) typically use external speakers anyway. My home Mac (a 2012 mini and its predecessor, a 2002 PowerMac) is connected to a Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 system and I wouldn’t have it any other way. As far as I’m concerned, Apple could get rid of the built-in speaker altogether on their desktop systems.

Yep. I wonder if my 16” long T15 screwdriver (for opening my Mac SE) will work here.

I recently found a Magic Trackpad on a junk pile, to find that the batteries are corroded and won’t come out.

I poured a small amount of isopropyl alcohol in the battery cylider, pried with a thin plastic pick and banged it against a table to get out the first battery, but the second one doesn’t want to move.

Any suggestions for how to get it out without destroying the device? The only thing I can think of would be to crazy-glue a thin rod to the top of the battery, maybe pour in some alcohol, and pull/wiggle the battery until it comes out. I’m afraid that any kind of stronger solvent will cause real damage.

Opinions?

90’s silicon may not run as hot as today’s silicon, but many PlayStation units had problems with overheating. A heat sink and a fan would’ve been a good idea.

Three AA batteries produce 4.5v. Depending on the components used, a 6v power source might cause damage.

Yes you can, but it’s not a good idea. If you hold the soldering iron on the chip for too long, you might overheat it to the point of causing damage. This isn’t a problem for someone experienced with soldering, but it could be a problem for a beginner. Using a socket avoids the problem.

If you hold the leads with your fingers, you will get burned. Hold them with small pliers or large tweezers.

A low-wattage iron or a tip that is too narrow will make this difficult. A large trace of copper requires a certain amount of thermal mass to heat it properly. A large wedge-shaped tip will help here if you have one.

The lead-length is not necessarily the best way to identify the cathode, since leads might be cut. A more reliable way is to look at the plastic housing. For a round LED, like these, you will notice that the rim at the base is flat on one side. That side should be adjacent to the cathode.

LEDs that come in other shapes may have other markings, but there will almost always be some irregularity in the plastic housing or a mark printed to indicate where the cathode is.

You might want to explain how to read the markings on a capacitor. One reference for this is https://www.engineering.com/ElectronicsD...

For capacitors with three digits, the first two are digits and the third is a power-of-10 multiplier. The units are pico-farads (pf). In this case, “105” indicates a “10” followed by 5 zeros or 1,000,000 pf, which is 1 µf