Students: Read this before claiming any of my pages.
If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users who know what they are doing).
- TOC inclusion (Note: If removed for editing, add it back. This is fine if you need to remove it for the project term).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
CompTIA A+ CE
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
School and Experience
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Graduation: 2014
- Marchman Technical Center
- Graduation: 2014
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
Les vues éclatées auxquelles j'ai participé
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Les tutoriels auxquels j'ai contribué
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Les tutoriels que j'ai aidé à traduire
Mes tutoriels favoris
Is it safe to use this hard drive cable?I got my cable in for my 2011 MBP and this is how it shipped to me (I did opt for no bracket since I confirmed my IR...
How long will my battery last?*CoconutBattery data* While I am not giving up on this notebook over the battery as I can replace it when things get worse...
Is it possible to test the SSD cache? (Seagate SSHD)I retired this drive from my Latitude a long time ago due to performance issues that were concerning since I had a WD...
I need a battery pinout for this system.Since I have largely given up on my A1181 (Late 2006) since the charge issue looks to be extensive and it needs other...
When do I need to worry about the hard drive cable?I have a 2011 13” MacBook Pro, which replaced a 2006 MacBook. I did not need to worry about the drive cabling on the 2006,...
How can I spot a fake online?I know the only way to get a new one that isn’t fake is to buy it through Apple, but the machine I am getting is on the...
Does the A1048 USB ports work well with flash drives?I currently use a G4 era keyboard with my iMac G5 ALS and I’ve had issues with a specific type of flash drive I use a lot...
Can I fix this without wiping my phone?This has happened for a while on and off but for the last few weeks it happens almost every other day. In lieu of wiping...
Why is the laptop shutting down?**NOTE: The seller included a 45W charger and did not make right on it. I need to get a 60W unit - I know.** I’ve had this...
(Dell OEM) Radeon 7570 1GB fan noise OR where can I get a new GPU fan?Video of the sound (Wear headphones): https://photos.app.goo.gl/6sGcSj7ER1Kj8t... I can clear up the sound temporarily...
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Réponse à : « MacBook not turning on »Did you get/use a knockoff or genuine charger? A lot of the times you see these old machines with major issues, it’s because someone decided to use a knockoff charger at some point in the machine’s life and it damaged the motherboard. If that’s the case, the knockoffs have this bad habit of taking out the motherboard because they can’t die alone for some reason and want a dead friend. This isn’t my first time having to deal with this problem either nor hearing they used a knockoff charger. Anyway, if that’s not the case or you want to see, the DC-In board is an inexpensive fix you can try. Refer to this guide for the part and information on installing it. If this doesn’t fix the problem, there’s a good chance you will need to have the motherboard repaired at the component level, which has a bad habit of totaling out older machines like this.
Réponse à : « How can I fix DCP-J100 printer Clean unable 32 error? »**Read: I know this since I use these printers to scan** Almost any time you see the Clean Unable error on a Brother, it’s either mechanical in the sense a motor has failed or the waste ink pads are full. The electronics usually do not fail and it tends to be waste ink in most inkjets, regardless of the manufacturer. To rule out a glitch, refer to these troubleshooting steps. You have one of the lucky few where you lose the print mech, but not the other functions. While it’s days as a printer are over without a new pad (generally totals out the printer) and knowing how to access maintenance mode (and not kill the printer; don’t take chances), it’s still a viable scanner. Consider the fax dead as well, to be safe.
Réponse à : « MacBook Pro Screen Glitch »It’s either a display issue or a board level fault. There is no GPU to fail here, so you can quickly rule that out. Hook it up to an external monitor and see if you run into the same problem to rule out the motherboard. This *is* a USB-C machine and very few people have the adapters on hand - including myself as I don’t have a need yet so keep that in mind when doing this. There are no mDP to USB-C adapters to use a common adapter anyone with a pre-2016 Mac probably has, so you will need a USB-C to HDMI (or a DVI to HDMI if your test monitor lacks native HDMI), VGA or DP adapter, depending on what level of display you have access to for testing - consumer displays that are relatively modern tend to use DVI, HDMI, VGA or a port mix; legacy monitors tend to be DVI/VGA only. Full size DP is usually only found on professional monitors like the calibrated Ultrasharps or the ASUS ProArt series. While it’s still best to ask if you’re using someone else’s monitor to test so you don’t waste your time, I’m going to...
Réponse à : « bent case by sd card slot »Reshaping aluminum is finicky and very prone to error unless you have a steady hand - that’s why it’s generally better to live with minor dents that are purely cosmetic then to try and fix them. However, you may need to replace the chassis anyway, which makes it no harm no foul if you can afford the system downtime to try. Use a wide head flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet to avoid doing significant damage if you find it’s too difficult. Tear the system down with the guide @danj linked, and then see if you can do it. If you find it’s too difficult, have someone who will get it right have a shot at it or replace the chassis.
Réponse à : « I can't install macOS on my MacBook Pro system. »Did you use the old SATA cable or replace it? I was told by @danj that some 2012’s use the 2011 cable and it sounds like you have the old cable. This was brought to my attention when I recommended the ‘11/’12 systems as a direct replacement for a SATA II capped MBP. Changing the cable is a good practice anyway since the newer drives overload the original cables and it usually ends up solving the problem anyway. The guide to change the cable can be found here, and the part can be found here. If you do not buy it here, you want the 821-2480-A or 821-2049-A. Anything else cannot be used with modern drives.
Réponse à : « What GHz to pick. »You’re between a massive rock and a hard place on this one, since you own a 2010 :-(. These do not support SATA III (added in 2011) and NONE of the current production drives support it anymore (outside of Seagate, but you need to check the datasheet). As such, you need to find an older NOS drive with autosense from WD or HGST if you do not want to use a Seagate drive. This was put to bed for good on the 2011 which shipped with a SATA II drive (with SATA III support in the EFI 1.6 update) but had it at the chipset level ready to be activated. If you run into a problem finding drives in the future and get a used 2011-12, the 2011 edu system (EMC 2496) may still be capped at SATA II and cannot take an HDD/SSD setup. The problem you run into now is if it fails, your refurbished replacement will probably be one of those modern drives without autosense in 1-2 years, so you can’t reliably RMA these drives if it fails :-(. You’re going to be in deep trouble should the drive fail and they also drop the autosense...
Réponse à : « Can I add more memory to my HP Stream 11-r010nr notebook? »The SSD is soldered as it is eMMC. The RAM is also soldered and most of these only include 2GB of RAM. The problem with these is they’re 8.1 with Bing systems and they have special requirements in terms of specs that Microsoft expects to get the discounted licence. They need to have 32GB or less for storage (type doesn’t matter, but most use eMMC) and less then 4GB of RAM (most use 2GB to be safe). You will need a laptop with an actual upgrade path if you want to be able to upgrade anything.
Réponse à : « Part of my keyboard backlight isn' t working? »I would be more concerned about killing your keyboard at a physical level over killing half the backlight. The backlight isn’t essential and you can live without it, but if the keyboard dies you’ll need a palmrest (keyboard is riveted in on this model) to fix it. See how your keyboard lasts for at least the month from when you did it. If it continues to work, live with the damage and consider yourself lucky. If it gets worse, you need a keyboard or palmrest. The stuff they put in nail primer isn’t much better then acetone in the amount of raw damage done.
Réponse à : « What is easier to replace? The expansion port or the motherboard? »The issue with replacing the port is it’s mounted with SMD soldering so you can’t easily replace it. Unless you have a donor secondary board and really good soldering skills, you will mess up the connector if you even try removing it. That said, it’s rare for the connector to fail in general (unless you spilled Mountain Dew on the port). Try doing what @mayer suggested and look for burned resistors and capacitors. Unlike the connector, it’s practical to replace SMD parts on that level. It also wouldn’t hurt to protect the connector with kapton tape to err on the side of caution.
Réponse à : « TI-30XS calculator repair in the USA »The screen is installed with hot bar soldering, so there’s no nondestructive way to replace it. You can replace it on SOME color graphing calculators, but any B&W model probably uses a hotbar. It’s almost certainly a limitation based on what is available with how common it is. I’m sure you could use a ZIF daughterboard and hotbar the display onto a subassaembly, but that’s not something the manufacturs will likely ever do. Not even good ones like the TI-84 Plus are modular but the CE is.
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