John Gonsalves

As mentioned before on this thread, use an external monitor. Here's a very common issue with the iBook (G3&G4). All laptops have a wire bundle leading from the Motherboard to the Display, via the inverter. Most techs quickly assume one of two things, either the inverer is bad (most common display issue in all model laptops, not sure why). Or, the systemboard, daughterboard or GPU has overheated and failed. Both are fixable in many cases, requiring something as simple as replacing the inverter to something as complex and time consuming as a GPU "Reflow". And, yes, this does apply to Apple Tech's as well. The true issue, is a bit more illusive, but, quite easily fixed. Provided you can find a "Display Wiring Harness/Bundle" that has NOT come from an already effected unit. Here in Lies the Rub... The "Display Wiring Harness" is positioned in such a way that after many open's and closes, wriggles it's way loose and becomes pressed against the corner of the hinge (Left Hand Side). This is just enough to cause...

Bigmark, Depending on which specific model this is there are a couple of things to try. First, and quickest is a PRAM Reset (Ctrl+R+P), which you can look up on Apple's site. The second and actually more likely (unfortunately) is that the power supply (it the modulaized component that the A power cord plugs into). I have replaced mine twice in the past 6 years. This is now where near as common as some blogs and groups might lead you to believe. The single most common issue by far is the Cap-Pop issue. Since you've had the back off, then you've seen them. What you need to do is to examine them very closely. What you are looking for is any bulging or dark residue on the silver "Top" of the capacitors. These are small components that kinda look like small soda cans, with black plastic wrapped around the sides and exposed shinny aluminum tops (normally with a crease indented on the tops in the shape of a "Y" kinda looks like a Peace Sign). Anyway, if any of these are "Popped" or bulging, this is your problem....

Dear MacHead3, Although I've seen and experienced a few of these upgrades on my personal machines. I have found that the first series "non-unibody" MBP's although actually, quite a bit easier to do. Seem to have Some fit issues, and never seems to come together "clean' if you get me. It's a super thing to get that old Dual-Core out of there, it makes a real difference in what you can do. For me, unless I'm moving it to a Socket T, there just doesn't seem to be enough reason to do this upgrade. No offense, just the math. The cost of the replacement board, time and effort, risking damage to all of those little connectors, and then there's the Mac OSX upgrade... My favorite trick is to get a Unibody (Used or broken for $125) and mod it from there. many more options and the board and socket is better and more useful. So, as for help with your issue, just be aware, if you haven't taken the system apart yet, the A110n series is a solder on CPU, not really an upgrade option. The next 2 series are ZIFF sockets,...

Wow, it looks like there are some pretty knowledgeable replies to your issue here. All of the commonly associated issues have been addressed. That's great, that's why you should look here first. One thing that you may not have tried, although you have had this poor thing in pieces more than together, and have likely either resolved or trashed the machine in the 2 years past. I had a similar issue with an iBook that I still have around here somewhere. Performed all of the recommended and some "don't try this at home" things too. The solution, was neither obvious nor logical. Often Mac laptops, although super, have some issues with very tight space. One step that I took during my diagnosis and general parts swapping was to replace the bundle cable to the inverter, not the power side, the data side. In doing so I found the bundle to be in an awkward spot by the left hinge and slightly pinched. I replaced this wire bundle and found that the issue went away for some time. Inevitably to start acting up again in...

I can confirm this latest answer, I have upgraded several Core 2 Duo's (to include Macbook Pro & iMac) to 4 GB RAM. 2x 2GB SODIMM's with absolutely no issue. These specific boards are similar to the G31 chipset boards produced by many manufacturers. Although many manufacturers configured the systems with 3 GB's of memory (as the upgrade from 2 GB), that was never this chipsets maximum memory. The specifications for this chipset allows a maximum of 4 GB system memory. Although there are many possible chipset options offered (especially during the transitional period from PPC to Intel Core 2), the Macintosh boards offered mostly soldered CPU/GPU configurations in place of ZIFF (Socket T/775). This really doesn't matter much with the exception of the limitations with CPU upgrades. The RAM is a limitation of the chipset itself, having nothing to do with the CPU socket itself. The MAC customized boards stayed with the same chipset through the change to the next generation of Intel CPU's (the I Core) then...

SAFETY NOTE: Remember ANY high voltage power supply can cause SERIOUS INJURY and may still hold charge LONG AFTER the device has been unplugged, EVEN IF PROPERLY DISCHARGED!!!

NOTE: Be aware that (especially refurbished iMac’s) may have adhesive that may increase difficulty removing sensor. Possible recommendation; Use your iFixit Jimmy Tool or spudger to assist you in reaching the adhesive strip.