Ben

I think the charger port flex are identical but I need to make sure before I try to solder one on.

Hi guys! Got another Nintendo Switch here, no liquid damage as far as I can tell under microscope, battery connector...

On a USB Ammeter it displays 0.46A and constantly stays there. Opened up device and found battery was pretty much flat....

I know that you can reset it on a Mac with command option P R but does it get reset when the battery is unplugged, OS...

I’ll explain the history of this device. The customer dropped it off at our shop to check and see if the phone can be...

I'm currently doing board level repair on it, replaced the transceiver for cellular service, fixed no service / service...

This phone has been previously liquid damaged and cleaned very well on the logic board. Now the leftover issue is: Service...

Problem description: The phone is stuck in an apple logo boot loop with Blue screen of death cutting it off. I can break...

So I replaced the battery on the same iPhone 4 3 times due to battery swelling, first time was just the battery draining...

So the phone powers on with a DC bench power supply and shows that charging symbol when charger plugged in. Won't charge a...

You need to get the home button replaced or it'll be stuck on that screen.

Either the pin inside the charger plug is bent or the charging socket on the side of the laptop is damaged. Usually charger port needs to be replaced. Most models have a removable DC-in cable instead of being soldered to the main-board.

The triple buzz indicates the phone has USB restrictions enabled until the phone is unlocked. This means that the phone can boot up normally to the lock screen but it appears there is a problem relating to the display connector or circuitry that connects to the connector. Seeing as you have tried another screen that eliminates the screen being at fault. I'm afraid this will require board-level repair to get this fixed. A local reputable repair shop that does micro-soldering may be able to fix it for you.

Power surge. I would try another power supply first and see how that goes. Edit: before trying another one try leaving the power supply unplugged for a couple of hours from the wall then plug it back in and try to turn it on again. Might just need to drain the PSU from a power surge to get it working again.

Oh yeah I get this a lot with my iPad 6 screens just disconnect the screen cables and reseat them. For every one I do I plug them in two times to make sure. I'm not sure why but with first click in it sometimes has dead spots on touch but when I reseat it is all working fine. Make sure to push down a bit harder than usual on each ends to make sure they are fully clicked into connector.

Keep it on, that is supposed to be there. Without it the keyboard cable won't stay plugged into the connector.

From your case it would be either one of the following: The home button flex cable on the home button itself has been torn. Extremely unlikely if the metal bracket for the home button was not removed from the screen. The most likely cause is a microtear on the screen cable itself. It'll be the smaller cable specifically coming from the screen and not the front camera. The part where it tears is behind the metal shield that goes on top of the back of the screen. Hopefully just the screen needs to be replaced rather than the home button which if it is the latter would required to be replaced by an aftermarket one with no touch ID.

When you do calls is the speaker icon greyed out and can't be switched on? Does the phone take like 5 minutes to boot up all the time? If yes to both it is an audio IC chip fault on the logic board. There are a few pads under the chip that get loose that need to be fixed which connect it to the logic board. A local reputable phone repair shop that does microsoldering can get this fixed for you.

Transfer the front camera assembly (FCAM) from the old screen to the replacement screen. The replacement screen probably has a faulty pre-installed FCAM assembly which has an ambient light sensor on it (ALS)

The keyboards on almost every new laptop these days are plastic molded to the keyboard / palm rest assembly. The keyboard would need to be replaced and a soldering iron would have to be used to melt these plastic molded kind of rivets. Some also have an additional metal back plate which reinforces the rigidity of the keyboard behind so it doesn’t flex so much. Then when the keyboard is replaced the plastic relds need to be re-done so I use plastic zip ties which i melt and re-use the plastic to reweld the plastic rivets to hold the keyboard and metal back plate in. The keyboard would have to be ordered from somewhere like eBay. The part number on the keyboard are generally printed on the keyboard cable or if you’re lucky you can search via the laptop’s model number for replacement parts. It does take a couple of hours at least to perform a keyboard replacement. Here is an example of how it’s done in video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhj4LunM...

If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

Yep, clean the old adhesive and apply some Tesa 4695 or 61395.

I honestly do not understand why the back cover is removed from the mid frame, you can remove the mid frame silver plastic with the back cover anyway.

They can’t be both PMI8994 Power Management IC’s I’ve looked at them under an microscope and one is PMI8994 and the other is PM8994.

Check step 3 of this guide: Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Screen Replacement

Unfortunately the connector plugs are different and the cables go in different areas.

No. Different connectors.

I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

The thickness / coverage of the area available to put the adhesive is plentiful which allows you to use more adhesive than you need. Anyway what I use is red double sided tape as it's adhesive strength is very good and the thickness is good to use in this case. It's called 'PET red double sided transparent tape'.

I think iFixit sells rolls of them which aren't really expensive at all.

Yeah don't listen to this comment. I replace Macbook Pro glass regularly and this is one of the worst ways to do it. I never replace glass without taking the screen assembly from the MacBook first.

The reason why I always separate the screen assembly from the MacBook is because it's just going to increase the difficulty of taking off the glass so much to the point that you regret that you wasted your time trying this and you could of done it in less time if you took the screen off from the MacBook.