Réponse à : « Not Getting Fuel to Cylinders HELP! »A Noid Light is a good cheap way to find out if you have an injector problem or an electronic problem. Unplug the harness from any injector, plug in the appropriate noid light and crank the engine. If the light flashes, you know the computer is driving the injector and you can focus on injector/fuel supply issues; if no flash you focus on the computer and the handful of sensors it needs to derive injector pulsewidth.
Réponse à : « replacing fuel filter on a 1986 volvo wagon »No secret, just use good tight fitting wrenches as you certainly don’t want to strip the hexes off the banjo bolts or the filter inlet/outlet. Sometimes it helps to set up your wrenches on the filter and bolt so that you can squeeze the handles together with one hand (like a pair of pliers) and rap on the bolt head with a small hammer - sometimes the shock wave helps the bolt break free. If you already got the front line disconnected, you may be able to get a better hold on the filter by applying a six-point socket to the front of the filter. In extreme cases you can even hold the banjo bolt (let its wrench wedge up against the bottom of the car) and turn the filter with a big long wrench or breaker bar.
Réponse à : « I want to put a new horn in the truck »Can you try honking and follow the noise? They are usually somewhere in the front, probably between the radiator and grill bolted on to one of the radiator core supports. I think I’ve seen it not too far from the hood latch on a similar truck.
Réponse à : « When I try to start the engine it will not start all I hear is a noise »A “zinging noise” is probably the starter gear not quite meshing with the flywheel’s ring gear. First make sure the battery is fully charged and does not sag too much under load. Many of these small engines don’t use a solenoid, instead they have a bendix gear that uses inertia to accomplish the same task. These types of starters are very sensitive to weak batteries. I would even try jumping it from a running car. If that doesn’t help, the next step is to turn the engine by hand about a quarter turn, then try the starter. This is to check the ring gear, most engines will always stop at the same place, so the starter usually hits the ring gear in that one place. Rotating the crank a few degrees exposes newer gear teeth to the starter. If that gets the starter to engage, or engage for most of a turn and then resume zinging, you need to replace the ring gear on the flywheel (or get used to turning it by hand a bit before hitting the starter). If you made it this far and haven’t found the problem yet, pull the...
Réponse à : « Broken nub on micro switch »try mouser.com or digikey.com
Réponse à : « tightening the serpentine belt »Looking at the routing diagram for the belt, I would say the one of (a) the power steering pump, (b) the alternator, or (c) the idler pulley is mounted on an adjustable bracket. Look for the mounting bolts that are going through a slotted bracket. There also might be a 1/2" square drive hole in whichever bracket swings, if so use use that (and a breaker bar) to tension the belt.
Réponse à : « clutch slave cylinder replacement »It looks like someone uploaded a set of dealer service manuals to ifixit (check the link just under the picture of the car). They are good manuals, but the organization is not obvious. I'd suggest you check the procedure then assess whether it is within your skills.
Réponse à : « How do I change my front brakepads? »Use the excellent guide that is found by clicking on the car model in the upper right corner of this page. Or go to this URL: 2005-2007 Ford Focus Front Brake Pad Replacement
Réponse à : « CV half shaft joint »Every Honda car I’ve seen has CV joints in the half shafts. The hub nut is usually a real beast to break loose (and staked to the axle on many models). Make a point of removing, or at least loosening, the hub nut before you start dismantling the brakes. And have an to stand on the brake pedal while you turn that nut. Without an assistant you may be able to lock the hub with a strategically applied pry bar or clamp. If the hub nut has a castle nut and cotter pin, you are lucky. If the hub nut is the type that is staked on, it will help to bend the staked in part back up before trying to loosen, this is easier said than done but I’ve had reasonable luck with pounding a small slotted screwdriver into the keyway, to create a little space, then follow with progressively larger taper punches until the staked in section of the nut sits a little bit proud of the axle threads. Alternately you could use a dremel to un-stake the nut, but that will probably take longer and might compromise the re-usability of the axle.
Réponse à : « oil pressure switch dashboard indicator »If the oil pressure light does not come on when key on, engine not running then you have either a bad light bulb, a bad oil pressure sending unit (sensor which grounds the oil pressure light circuit when oil pressure fails), or a wire has become disconnected. The easiest troubleshooting method is to find the sending unit, disconnect and ground the wire and see if the oil pressure light comes on (assuming, of course, that the key is on and engine not running), if the light comes on while grounding the wire, but not when wire is connected to sender, replace sender then confirm light works correctly and turns off when the engine is started. If you find the sender, but no wire is attached, look around in the general area for a loose wire with the correct type of connector on it. If grounding the sender wire does not turn on the light, verify that you haven't blown the fuse for the instrument panel, and then replace the light bulb.
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