James Plosay

There’s a loose or intermittent connection somewhere. Since most of these devices use molded plugs, repair isn’t that easy unless you’re already handy with such things. Are you sure it’s the charger cord, and not the connection? Wiggling the cord side to side is probably wearing on the charger connector. The connector can be replaced, and the charger cord also.

From the owners manual (https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_p...) the answer is “no”. Set the saw on a bench or other suitable support and use the attached blade wrench to loosen the spindle nut, holding the saw down with the guard UP so the blade is captured by the bench-top and kept from moving. Alternatively, on tight blades, I’ve always inserted a screwdriver shaft between blade teeth to “jam” the blade from moving. In a pinch you can also grip the blade with some pliers or channel-locks.

My guess is that the “home” button is going faulty or is sticking. I have the same issue with an iPad Mini 2 that has a finicky home button and will run thru menus at times like it is being operated by a ghost. Manipulating the home button seems to make it stop, it’s just not obvious when it occurs because you can’t tell if the button is stuck down or to one side visually.

As stated above, let the tablet finish it’s startup cycle. Is this a 4G service, or a pre-entered wifi connection? Some of my Samsung tablets connect faster than others, but if it is a saved connection then it should get there. OP doesn’t really give enough info to know what is happening.

What style heads are on the screws, and I assume you mean the heads are stripped, not the actual threads? Most often I see folks trying to use Allen hex wrenches in what are actually Torx-style heads and they ruin the head. Sometimes you can fit a smaller or larger Torx bit into the damaged head and get enough torque on it to start turning. If the head of the screw is accessible and not too deeply recessed, you can try to use a Dremel tool and cut a slot for a blade-style screwdriver.

I do not see the pictures, but most wiring harnesses are color coded in the wires, so it should be easy (and cheapest) to simply splice them together again using short runs of same-gauge wire, matching wire color to wire color. A new wiring harness may include a LOT of work, as many of them go to many devices and directions.

The motor that drives the window regulator may be faulty. Or the switch may be bad. You’ll need to pull the door interior off and explore the window motor wiring harness for proper voltage and operation from the switch. If this is a rear window, make sure the lockout switch on the drivers door isn’t engaged. Most new cars have that and it always get inadvertently overlooked and engaged.