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Introduction
The first laser printer teardown on iFixit.
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This teardown of the HP LaserJet 1320 is officially the first laser printer teardown on iFixit.
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According to the service manual (there is a link in the documents section), the left cover of the printer can be opened without any tools by pulling on 2 tabs.
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The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds.
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Now on to the formatter.
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Remove 2 screws on the I/O port cover.
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Remove 6 screws on the formatter cover.
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Disconnect 3 connectors to the laser assembly, the cartridge connector, and the control panel.
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Disconnect 2 flat flexible cables to the laser assembly and the control board.
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Chips on the formatter:
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PCA9551 I2C LED Blinker. I never knew there was a chip with the sole purpose of blinking LEDs.
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STMicroelectronics E6V2HP
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SC414445VF Proprietary ASIC
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More chips on the formatter...
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The large gray object on the right is a 100-pin DIMM slot for expanding the internal memory.
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Removing the right cover is as easy as disengaging 3 tabs with the printer turned on its side.
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The back cover can be removed by removing 4 screws on the back of the printer.
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The duplexer tray can be removed by pulling outwards on the
bluegreenblue-green tab, which releases the magnets that hold the tray in place.
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Remove 2 screws on the back of the printer, one on the left side, and one on the front.
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After disconnecting the control panel cable, the top cover can be removed.
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The control panel and its circuit board can easily be removed with a metal spudger.
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Remove one cable from the laser assembly.
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Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly.
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Disconnect the fan cable from the control board on the back of the printer.
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Remove the retaining clip from the fan.
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Remove 2 screws holding in the fan.
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While the fan can not be completely removed yet, this will make it easier to take apart other parts of the printer.
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Remove 1 screw from the top of the cartridge connector.
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Remove 1 screw on the front of the cartridge connector.
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The cartridge connector can be removed from the printer.
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The cable clip for the laser assembly cable can be removed from the chassis.
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Remove 3 screws on the duplexer gear assembly.
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The duplexer gearbox can now be removed.
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Remove one screw holding down the duplexer solenoid.
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This appears to be a standard 24V open-frame solenoid, although no markings were found on it.
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Remove 3 screws to remove the safety interlock assembly.
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Disconnect 2 spade connectors from the microswitch.
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The safety interlock prevents the lasers or high-voltage power supply from being turned on when the cartridge door is open.
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The fan cable can now be derouted from the cable guide and the fan can be removed.
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Disconnect 2 cables from the control board.
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Remove the gear from the fuser shaft.
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Deroute the remaining cables in the cable guide.
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Remove 4 screws to remove the main gear assembly.
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Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid.
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The cartridge door can be removed by removing 2 screws on the front of the printer.
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The pickup roller can now be removed by rotating the white tabs upwards and pulling them out.
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Remove 2 screws to remove the paper feed bar.
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Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly.
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Disconnect the cable to the tray connector and route it through the hole in the chassis.
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Disconnect 2 cables from the control board and remove them from the cable guide.
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Remove the cable guide on the other side of the chassis.
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Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board.
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Deroute the tray connector cable through the cable guide.
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Disconnect the main motor cable.
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Remove 3 screws from the right side of the printer.
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Remove 3 screws from the left side of the printer.
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After removing the plastic clip, the soft foam pressure roller can be removed.
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The metal rod in the roller allows the roller to be negatively charged, which prevents toner from sticking to the fusing film. Each end of the rod is coated in a conductive black liquid which helps it make contact with the high-voltage connector.
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Remove 2 screws to remove the metal bar from the fuser.
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After removing one screw, this small circuit board can be removed.
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The board contains a beam interrupt sensor, which contains an infrared LED pointing at an infrared phototransistor. When an object enters the slot and breaks the beam, the phototransistor detects it as a drop in infrared light.
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Remove 4 screws on each side of the printer to remove the metal midframe piece that holds the chassis together.
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The massive control board can now be seen.
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Remove the tray connector and motor cables from the cable guide.
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The high voltage corona wire used to apply a charge to the paper is visible in the right of these pictures (the spiked metal strip attached to the paper feed assembly)
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Remove one screw holding down the tray connector cable guide and then remove the cable guide.
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Remove one screw on the printer chassis.
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Remove 2 screws from the left side of the chassis.
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Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis.
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Bend the chassis to allow the control board to come loose, and disconnect the 2 cables to the paper feed assembly to remove the control board.
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Remove 4 screws on the control board to remove it from the metal plate.
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Here are the major components on the top side of the control board:
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CR8KM-12A Thyristor (Most likely for fuser control)
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Unidentified high-voltage transformers
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220uF 200V capacitor
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Main switching transformer
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Chips on the back of the board:
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STMicroelectronics 324 E9SU518 - Possibly an LM324 Quad Op Amp?
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STMicroelectronics 339 E9W2513 - Possibly an LM339 Quad Comparator?
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Unidentified Texas Instruments chip with the part number sanded off.
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Large QFP chip with the part number sanded off and a red and a blue mark on top.
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Interestingly, all the chips were covered in a clear coating that made it hard to read the part numbers.
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It appears that whoever designed this board was trying to prevent reverse engineering by making it hard to read the part numbers on the chips.
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The main motor can be removed after unclipping the cable guide and removing 3 screws.
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The motor is a Nidec RK2-0419, which appears to be appears to be a fairly powerful "outrunner" style brushless motor rated for 1.3A at 24V. The rotor (the round metal part) is about 3 inches in diameter and the entire motor weighs about 15 ounces.
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This motor might be a special motor designed for use in this printer, as it and many other components have a number with the format RK2-0xxx on them.
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The single chip on the motor is a BD6761FS Brushless Motor Driver.
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This printer receives a perfect repairability score of 10/10.
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No adhesives, thermoplastic staking, spot welding, or rivets are used.
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Service manuals for this and most HP printers are easy to find and free.
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Replacement parts are easy to find.
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Printer is designed to be repaired.
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Pièces jointes
2 commentaires
Looks like someone got a much longer teardown already :)
Excellent. I needed to see the polygon mirror of the LSU. It proved it’s too thin for my DIY project so you save me $12 for buying such unit from China