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Vidéo d'introduction

Cette vue éclatée n'est pas un tutoriel de réparation. Pour réparer votre Oculus Rift CV1, utilisez notre manuel de réparation.

  1. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown, Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 1, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown, Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • We've had two prerelease versions on our teardown table, so we're excited to see what tweaks this Rift has in store. Here's the scoop so far:

    • Two OLED displays with a combined resolution of 2160 x 1200

    • 90 Hz refresh rate

    • Accelerometer, gyroscope, and magnetometer

    • 360-degree headset tracking via Constellation IR camera

    • Horizontal field of view greater than 100º

    • The Rift's custom VR motion controllers, known as Oculus Touch, will be ready later this year. Perhaps we'll tear them down at that time, if we're not hopelessly lost on the Grid.

  2. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 2, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 2, image 2 de 2
    • Improving the VR experience means improving the head tracking—and tracking means dots. Lots of dots.

    • Infrared dots, to be precise; they're generated by tiny LEDs embedded in the headset. You'll never see them during normal use, but our infrared camera sees all—just like the Oculus' tracker, known as "Constellation."

    • It's called Constellation because it looks like you're wearing a star chart on your face.

    • Turn your head around, and you're still being tracked. Unlike its predecessors, the latest Rift has IR LEDs in the front and the back. You can spin in circles and never break immersion—until you trip over the cord.

  3. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 3, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 3, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 3, image 3 de 3
    • This is definitely the sleekest Rift yet—lightweight, impressively comfortable, and now with earphones built right in for maximum immersion.

    • A thick foam frame attempts to minimize the effects of Oculus Face. It's simply attached with clips.

    • Fewer screws means less weight!

    • With the frame removed, we can unplug the spinal cord single cable from the head-mounted display.

    • The cable management has really seen some impressive evolution across the generations of Rift.

  4. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 4, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 4, image 2 de 2
    • Removing the adjustable earphones couldn't be easier.

    • An embedded flathead barrel nut secures the speaker arm, and spring contacts connect it to the wires in the headband. Sweet!

    • We've seen our share of expensive, un-repairable, nigh-impossible-to-disassemble earphones, so this is a welcome surprise.

    • Especially considering these lil guys are prime damage targets should your headset "fall" to the ground following a rough PvP match.

    I agree that more detailed teardown of the headphones themselves would be nice. I still wonder if they are made by KOSS or someone else.

    Nick Kisselkov - Réponse

    Hey, thanks! Totally missed that screw in the inside of the headphone connection

    Mark Carolan - Réponse

    This one picture just saved me from replacing my headset due to a failed earpiece. Turns out, after a year of passing the headset around for Beat Saber, we managed to unscrew one. That side felt a smidge loose, and then the sound went out. We assumed a bad wire, but we just needed to line the pegs up and tighten the flathead cover on the inside of the band. Thanks guys!

    Mara Methvin - Réponse

  5. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 5, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 5, image 2 de 2
    • Stretchy black lycra surrounds the lenses, covering a thin plastic frame. This dustproof fabric cleverly protects the Oculus' innards, while still allowing the adjustable lenses some freedom to move.

    • The frame also contains a small anchor point for the over-the-head strap.

    • But how to remove it? We're momentarily stumped—until our teardown engineer finds the hidden interior clips that secure the frame. After a few well-placed flicks of the spudger, it's free.

    • With that, we pop our Kato mask off the Oculus for our first real peep inside!

    Could you please be more specific in how to remove the cover. I cannot see how to remove it with just the one picture of the spudger shoved in the gap. Thanks.

    Chris B - Réponse

    Guys this is the hardest part and you just forgot to explain it. Here is a link to the mask: http://imgur.com/lDhwvfV Note the 3 interior clips. Here is another image where it clips in: http://imgur.com/VJaI52O I recommend starting with the ones on the bottom.

    Zsolt Mihalyfi - Réponse

    Zsolt - how did you get the clips off from around the lenses? Did you have to do it from over the cloth?

    Andrew White - Réponse

    Please be specific how you removed the bottom 4 screws. The T3 bit and driver are not enough. It keeps occurring like the heads will strip. Hope you can take time to provide support for this!

    GInger Jones - Réponse

    For anyone that gets stuck here, there are six T3 Torx screws (4 bottom, 2 top), clips around the outside of the mask that are pretty easy with a spudger, and then three clips per eyepiece/lens as pictured in Zsolts’s post above. I couldn’t get the eyepiece clips started by prying around the lenses so I ended up prying the mask open as much as possible at the top and getting the top ones nearest to the nose open with the small pointy end of the spudger. After that I was able to get the rest from the gap made around the lenses from releasing that first clip for each.

    terrance - Réponse

    If this true, it’s Unbeliveable you guys don’t talk about the 6 screws removal in your page script. This is CAPITAL! I’m trying to remove only be declipping and I’m sure I’m breaking everything.

    David S - Réponse

    I wish you all the best of luck with your projects, but as stated in the banner at the top of this page: this is not a guide. iFixit teardowns are meant to be a first look at the hardware and overall repairability, and should not be used as instructions.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    I spent over an hour trying to remove the %#*@ cowl. Turns out, I had to apply a LOT more pressure than I thought would be necessary. No, I have not broken anything but make sure to use plastic tools (spudgers) I had to pry my thumb between the cowl and the main housing in the lower right hand side up first as it turned out to be the easier side, to reveal the cowl’s clip that’s over and around the lens. After popping that one off, I did the same to the left. Now, at that point, run your thumb/finger over the cloth and along the ring where the other two clips are latches around the lens. Now, after running your finger across it, part of the ring should separate thus allowing you to use that as leverage to wiggle the other two clips free.

    DJHeroMasta - Réponse

    Couple comments based on previous posts: 1) “The T3 bit and driver are not enough. It keeps occurring like the heads will strip” - I ran into the same things where it felt like I was stripping the screw, ended up using a T4 bit instead and it fit perfectly, 2) The clips around the lens as pictured in the 2nd post from Zsolt were super helpful, once I knew where the clips were used a 0.46mm guitar pick to wedge in-between the lens and cover to unfasten and the cover came of easily.

    Paul Not Bunyan - Réponse

    Comments on Paul Not Bunyan's post. Confirmed T4 bit. I originally thought I needed a longer T4 bit, but the iFixit bit worked fine. The T4 screws near the nose were difficult, but let the plastic housing of the kato mask guide your bit to the head of the T4. On the subject of the kato mask clips: start on the left lens without the IPD slider. Once you have bottom lens clip unfastened, run your plastic spudger on the inside of the clip on either side of the lens to free the other two clips. Indeed, the cover came off easily once you figure out the puzzle. Thanks Paul Not Bunyan!

    Renjamin - Réponse

    I had an easier time with the clips by adjusting the IPD to the maximum and then going in for the center nose bridge clips because of the extra room, as then I could simply wiggle the other two clips off each lens with the extra slack. This might be harder if your tool is rounder or larger. Definitely not much force needed.

    Sae Yun - Réponse

  6. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 6, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 6, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 6, image 3 de 3
    • The DK2 prototype used a single 1080p display panel yanked from Samsung's Galaxy Note 3. But this time, something's different...

    • Instead of a smartphone display, Oculus has doubled your order! Two displays, mounted right to the lenses, adjustable with this knobby thing!

    • Until the day the eyePhone drops, this will do.

    • What's this? Looks like a face-detector an ambient light sensor, present to check if you're wearing the Rift, or perhaps to adjust display brightness to account for extra light leaking into the headset.

    This little Sensor is a proximity Sensor. It is used to detect if the User wears the Glasses. If the Oculus Software isn't opened yet, it will open automatically after some seconds. Its like the Sensor on your Smartphone which turns of the Display while calling sombody.

    Timo Meyer - Réponse

  7. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Lifting off the cowling reveals a couple standard-issue ribbon cables. The extra slack lets the eyepiece assemblies wiggle around and move back and forth to adjust the interpupillary distance, or IPD (that is, the distance between your eyes).

    • Three more ribbon cables attach the LED control board to the IR LED array, webbed around the inside of the headpiece housing.

    • We don't particularly love fiddly cables connecting two halves of our hardware, but at least they're nicely labeled for reassembly... More on that later.

    • Here's the meat of the Oculus!

    • Vegetarians please note: we found no actual meat in the Oculus.

    Is there a gap between the top housing and the ribbon cable? (i.e. would you be able to accidentally press down on the ribbon cable if you squeezed the housing? )

    Albert Kart - Réponse

    How did the lid break down? How can I not get it down?

    chenchen - Réponse

    not to sound like a jerk but this is the least descriptive teardown of anything ever……..

    Joshua Gayman - Réponse

    The cowl took me over an hour to remove cause I was being very careful trying not to break any clips but a lot of force was required to get that SOB off. Now, I’m stuck trying to figure out how to remove this part! I wish someone would update this with a lot more pictures and a step by step video.

    DJHeroMasta - Réponse

    I’ve disassembled mine today, so I’ll add a few words to ease this step :)

    NOTE: this can be done without force, there are no clips once you undo all screws.

    Photos + instructions: https://imgur.com/a/9UAM737

    1. 3 more torx T3/T4 screws marked in red (two holding front plate to the bottom wall, plus one holding the lens slider assembly)

    2. 4 big X-screws holding the front plate in the corners, marked in green (only the biggest ones need to be unscrewed)

    3. Tricky hidden top-center screw: DEEP directly on the front plate. Push the lenses to the sides first, or it won’t be accessible from the inside! Use a thin, long and well magnetized small cross screwdriver. The 2nd photo shows exactly where the screw was. With good lighting it should be visible from the inside with the lenses moved away.

    4. Unclip the lens slider slider (3rd photo): insert a prying tool from the inside and it will pop out — do not lose the tiny springs!

    5. Now the front plate should come off easily with some wiggling.

    Artur Kozak - Réponse

    Thank you so much for this update! That made my life 1000x easier. I never would’ve found that hidden phillips deep between the lenses!

    Squeeter McGeeter -

  8. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Leaving the meat for the main course, let's take a peek at the salad LED array.

    • Those fiddly cables connect to a set of three IR LED arrays: Top, Bottom, and Strap heading up the rear.

    • Each LED is labeled, and D8 through D10 are hanging out near a lone "hidden" microphone. What's that for, we wonder.

    • Future features like in-game chat, voice commands, or ambient noise volume adjustment are good bets.

    • A MEMS microphone is found beneath the Kapton tape at the bottom of the case.

    Where is the "hidden" microphone?

    Shane Shuttleworth - Réponse

    it's the little yellowish bit at the bottom-left in the first image, and covered by kapton tape in the second image. relative to your face while wearing the device, it would be under your left eye.

    piro - Réponse

  9. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 9, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 9, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 9, image 3 de 3
    • The top of the lens assembly hosts the motherboard. And chips!

    • Toshiba TC358870XBG 4K HDMI to MIPI Dual-DSI Converter

    • Cypress Semiconductor CYUSB3304 USB 3.0 Hub Controller

    • STMicroelectronics STM32F072VB ARM Cortex-M0 32-bit RISC Core Microcontroller

    • Winbond W25Q64FVZPIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory

    • Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822 Bluetooth Smart and 2.4GHz proprietary SoC

    • CMedia CM119BN USB Audio Controller

    • Bosch Sensortec BMI055 6-axis Inertial Sensor

    Hi, it's actually "MIPI", as in http://mipi.org/ , not "MIP". There's a typo in the headline of the linked press-release.

    Evan Cox - Réponse

    Yes it is a typo, MIPI instead of MIP. And here is the link to the Toshiba device:

    http://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/info/...

    Darius - Réponse

    "Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822", interesting... I assume that is a the RF link to the Clicker and (probably) Touch. If so, this is somewhat disappointing as it will mean that the touch controllers are only compatible with Oculus headset and can not be used separately or with another headset configuration.

    Simon Wood - Réponse

    True - it seems like a proprietary 2.4GHz ref. FCC filing.

    Body Double -

    The left display on my headset stopped working and went completely dark. I am normally brave enough to open devices and fix them myself, but the hidden clips and fragile housing makes me worried I might make things worse. I'm not even sure if I can even fix the issue or if the display itself went bad.

    hymanator - Réponse

    Parts are not available for the Rift main assembly at all after the warranty period. Oculus does not offer a repair service or a replacement program. You will have to rely on someone selling a broken unit that has a working component you need, or buy an entire new kit. Post warranty support for the main unit is non-existent.

    Charles Miotla -

    Great teardown, thx! Were you able to find what chipset is doing the power supply? Is it a PMIC? Multiple DC/DC converters?

    calvin - Réponse

    do you know what TE connector is used on this board?

    Graham edwards - Réponse

    I did 2 tear down on 2 different units bought a year apart.

    The newer board does not have Winbond W25Q64FVIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it.

    Newer board is 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was in now 4 square flat shapes of solder.

    They remove it? Why?

    Ardy Blakley - Réponse

    Great info thx for the knowledge. I had an interesting discovery on one of my head sets.

    I have 2 different headsets I bought a year apart. I tore both apart and discovered something missing on newer board.

    The newer board does not have Winbond 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it. Newer board is marked with 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was is now in its place 4 square flat shapes of solder.

    I am curious to why they removed the Flash Memory.

    Ardy Blakley - Réponse

    I did 2 tear down on 2 different units bought a year apart. The newer board does not have Winbond W25Q64FVIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it. Newer board is 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was in now 4 square flat shapes of solder.

    Ardy Blakley - Réponse

  10. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 10, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 10, image 2 de 2
    • Motherboard IC identification, continued:

    • STMicroelectronics VL53L1X time-of-flight sensor (likely)

    • STMicroelectronics BALF-NRF01D3 Bluetooth balun

    • Texas Instruments display power management

    • ON Semiconductor CAT93C46B 1 Kb serial EEPROM

    • STMicroelectronics M24C64-F 8 Kb serial EEPROM

    • Texas Instruments TPS22908 load switch

    • Ricoh R1202L721A step-up DC-DC converter

  11. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 11, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 11, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 11, image 3 de 3
    • Separating the lens assembly reveals the custom, non-Note, larger-than-lens-aperture display!

    • These OLEDs measure in at 90 mm apiece, for a resulting pixel density of ~456 ppi. In contrast, the display on an iPhone 6s Plus comes in at 401 ppi, while the Galaxy S7 is a cut above at 576 ppi.

    • Given that pixel density, an average user would need to be 8 inches from the display for the pixels to become indistinguishable. The Rift's fancy optics make the display look much farther away to the user—but also much bigger, surrounding you with pixels.

    • So for now at least, individual pixels are still very much visible, or ''indivisual," a technical term that we just made up.

    What is the sub-pixel structure of the display? Is it pentile as everyone expected, or is it RGB? And who's the manufacturer? Microscope shots of the display in action would have been great too.

    Nick Kisselkov - Réponse

  12. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 12, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 12, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Where prior Oculus Rift kits shipped with interchangeable circular lenses (left), the CV1 uses a single set of non-removable, asymmetric lenses (right).

    • A closeup of the CV1 lens reveals these concentric rings, a telltale sign of Fresnel lenses. These cleverly manufactured lenses do the same job as the thick, bulging, curved plastic lenses seen in prior Rifts—using thin arrays of concentric prisms that weigh far less.

    • The Fresnel lens yields the same large viewing angle and short focal length, but with a fraction of the material—which is exactly what VR needs. It all has to go into a brick-sized device you can strap to your face for hours, without putting a strain on your poor neck muscles.

    • Bonus round: by varying the size and shape of the concentric prisms, Oculus was able to fine-tune the lens for this specific application, minimizing spherical aberrations (or distortions) that may result from a traditional curved lens. This probably explains the asymmetric shape.

    What is the diameter of the lens? (I know its not round but in the widest part)

    Diego Chavez - Réponse

    It's approximately 49.82mm. I had to measure a rubbing of the lens (pencil over paper) in order to cut lens protectors for them. I measured with a cheap digital caliper.

    Nate -

    How sensitive are the lenses to pressure? I was wiping the lenses softly and it creaked a little bit, just once though. Is this normal?

    Nelson - Réponse

  13. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • But wait—if Fresnel lenses do away with the bulging curves of traditional lenses, why are these lenses curved?

    • Turns out, Oculus went a step further down the optical tunnel, and manufactured hybrid Fresnel lenses.

    • These lenses are made up of concentric prisms of uniform thickness (like any other Fresnel lens). But an extra, sloping layer is added to the back of the lens, creating a shape that mimics a traditional curved lens—and allowing the focus to vary along the vertical axis of the lens.

    • That's why the Rift instructs you to focus the headset by simply pushing it higher or lower on your face. Look through a different part of the lens until you find the focus suited to your eyes. Bingo, no more three-sets-of-lenses Rifts.

    • We interrupt this teardown for a Science Party. Dim the lights, fire up the smoke machine, and bring the laser beams!

    • So when you put it all together, what does a lens in a VR headset actually do?

    • For the VR experience to be realistic and not cause great discomfort, you need the optics to do two things: magnify the display so that you can't see the edges (which would kill the immersion), and focus the display at optical infinity.

    • That last one is a fancy optics term that means objects on the display have to appear far away. The lens realigns the incoming light into parallel rays, so you don't have to do any work to focus, preventing eye strain.

    • TL;DR: The Rift's lenses make up for your eyes' and the displays' shortcomings, making you think you're looking at an endless, distant display (instead of a TV screen glued to your face).

  14. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 15, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 15, image 2 de 2
    • What was behind those lenses and dual displays? A super-sleek, spring-loaded, dual rack-and-pinion mechanism for adjusting the spacing between the display + lens assemblies.

    • The use of dual displays was a major advance between Rift DK2 and the Crescent Bay prototype. By allowing each lens + display assembly to move as a unit, the Rift provides enough adjustment to accommodate the 5th-95th percentile of IPD—while keeping other key optical properties intact.

    • TL;DR: If you have eyes, you can probably use this. Nice.

    • Next to come out is the LED driver board, featuring all the labels a teardowner/reassemblist could want...

  15. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 16, image 1 de 2 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 16, image 2 de 2
    • The aforementioned well-labeled board, complete with over a dozen test points and the essential control hardware.

    • Unlike the STMicroelectronics LED drivers we found in the Development Kit 2, this IC array hails from Texas Instruments:

    • 3x Texas Instruments TLC59401 16-Channel LED Driver with Dot Correction and Grayscale PWM Control

    • On the reverse, we see a pair of (relatively) large capacitors—probably necessary to smooth the intermittent load of pulsing such a huge array of IR LEDs.

  16. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 17, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 17, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 17, image 3 de 3
    • Optics: check. Silicon: check.

    • Time to go hunting for headband hardware. Plastic opening tool in hand, we pry the FCC labels off in search of LEDs and headphone wiring.

    • Peeling back a layer of fabric, we find a slick black ribbon cable that wraps around your head to feed the LEDs in the back. Neat!

    • But wait—what are these mechanical things?

    My right strap snapped off the Rift and broke the ribbon cable inside. So no speakers or back tracking LEDs. Any way to replace or solder it back together?

    Rafael Fideles - Réponse

    Same Problem , I am trying to repair the ribbon cable : fix both sides with glue on a thin sheet (piece of other ribbon cable) , scratch with a scalpell the black lack to expose the copper layer , and restore the connections soldering thin wires . After , seal evething with got glue .

    I hope my skills are good enough …

    lughi -

    Did it work Lughi?, I have the same problem

    Emanuel Loureiro - Réponse

    Did it work? I have the same problem now.

    ExitusVR Houston - Réponse

    • Headband springs! These spring-loaded tracks in the sides of the headband each give an extra inch or so of play—without the fuss of a buckle or strap.

    • That means you can get the Oculus on and off your head about as easily as a baseball cap. No further adjustment required.

    • While we were able to fit a dozen employee noggins with no fiddling, this springy mechanism is a possible point of failure. Considering the headband is darn near impossible to disassemble, your virtual reality may eventually have to rely on its straps rather than its springs.

  17. Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 19, image 1 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 19, image 2 de 3 Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown: étape 19, image 3 de 3
    • The Oculus Rift CV1 Repairability Score: 7 out of 10 (10 is best):

    • Cable management is much improved from the development kits, with a sturdy connector for easy removal.

    • The earpiece speakers are super easily removed thanks to spring connectors.

    • The face pad is held in with plastic clips and pulls out easily.

    • Getting inside is difficult, with hidden internal clips securing the dust shield.

    • Replacing the head strap is impossible without cutting through the fabric on the headset.

    • Intricate design and delicate ribbon cables makes it very difficult to remove the lenses, displays, and motherboard.

    Könnt ihr die einzelnen Teile vom Bild mit den Fachwörter noch Beschreiben?

    mone - Réponse

Evan Noronha

Membre depuis le 02/05/15

223 241 Réputation

168 tutoriels rédigés

90 commentaires

Are you going to open up the cable, or constellation sensor?

Jim - Réponse

Keep checking in to find out ;)

Sam Goldheart -

Will you be checking to see if the Spectra7 chips are still being used with the HMD cable?

gabeh2 - Réponse

Awesome teardown! Loved the humor. Thanks for your hard work! I can't wait to receive my Rift.

Zach Fox - Réponse

What about the rack and pinion system? The camera? The remote? The cable?

Jason Znack - Réponse

Where is the microphone located?

Jack - Réponse

How about a teardown of the headphones!? Palmer Luckey demands it!

Josh Mills - Réponse

Why is the video private?

Jesse Ficarra - Réponse

Where is the Accelerometer, Gyroscope and Magnometer?

dhruvbole - Réponse

The accelerometer and gyroscope are a single chip (the Bosch BMI055) located on the motherboard. It's highlighted in pink in the above photo. I'm not sure about the magnetometer.

ProgHead777 -

For this application the MEMs are only used to track relative motion, and the camera system tracks absolute motion. Hence magnetometer is un-necessary. There is no magnetometer. BMI055 is the same MEMs used in GearVR CV1 (it gets away with not having a magnetometer by intermittently pulling from the phone's magnetometer to correct for orientation drift).

Robert -

Will you teardown the cable? Wondering if Spectra7 is still the chip. Thanks!!!

Michael Daniels - Réponse

Missing locations for microphone and IMU

gsbain - Réponse

the TI 59I C6F3 are OLEDDisplay Power Supply. I dont find any info on these, but the coils and the fact that they are 2, (1 was in dk2) proves my point.

patrickgtasanandreasmod - Réponse

nice teardown. the s in fresnel is silent, FYI. its french.

ccon - Réponse

Bosch Sensortec IMU (gyro + accelerometer) BMI055

marcellinogemel - Réponse

Thanks marcellinogemel! We've updated the teardown accordingly.

Evan Noronha -

Teardown not complete, Cable and chips in cable still a mystery? Do ur job right or forget about it!!!

macman1519 - Réponse

Dear iFixit team, please ignore that guy's rude remark. There are plenty of us here who respect your work who would in fact appreciate it if you did open the cables to see what kind of chips are inside.

Tester -

I need to know if the lenses can be rotated. I suffer from permanent torsional double vision and need to rotate the left lens to match my right eye for the picture to match up. This is the only thing stopping me from seeing in 3d.

Bradley Jobe - Réponse

Wouldnt it be easier to rotate the Image in software? Or am I just not understanding your condition?

John M -

Weird that Oculus didn't made a headphone jack to use your own headset with microphone.

Fermioncool Fermioncool - Réponse

The step 13 erroneously states that the stereoscopic display permanently focused at infinity relieves eyestrain. In fact fixed focus is a cause of eye strain due to an accommodation-vergence mismatch. In contrast an accommodative/ multifocal/ light field display or a retinal display would alleviate this cause of eye strain.

Jack Hayes - Réponse

well… i can stay 8 hours with the vr headset on without feeling eyestrain, but if i spend a few hours looking at the computer screen (and i have a 42” one) my eyes get stuck into a close focus. if i want to drive after spending a few hours at the pc, i have to close one eye because i get double vision because of stuck close focus. doesnt happen with vr tho. and with smaller screens its even worse, thats why i got a 42” tv as a screen…

Mike The Monk (MGTOW Monk) -

What about the timing controller? The displays are from samsung i guess?

Samuel Heenan - Réponse

It would be very interesting to see a teardown of the remote and the touch controllers as well! :)

Body Double - Réponse

Any idea of manufacturer and reference of the two display panels? Thanks

Cedric Pelvet - Réponse

So it sounds like it's upgrade capable to 4K resolution once displays are available! Nice!

Josh - Réponse

Not at the fps you want to hit with VR. That part can only do 30fps 4K but up to 120fps for full HD.

Rup G -

The "s" is silent in "Fresnel." :)

Suchit - Réponse

Well, you're not wrong but, neither is she :) http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionar...

Sam Goldheart -

The dictionary has this habit of changing the meanings or pronunciations of a words once the incorrect way becomes commonplace. The definition of literally has changed to “figuratively” because so many used it incorrectly. Fresnel lenses are named after french physicist Augustin J. Fresnel. Saying it without a silent “s” is mispronouncing the name of the man who invented them and that shouldn't really be up for debate.

TL;DR the dictionary is wrong. ;)

Brandon Rulez -

Virtual Reality SUCKS.. Occulus Rift is already outdated.. ( Yup they are just like you guys and missed the Memo). The best new thing is Augmented Reality. Check out the Augmented Reality here, http://www.cnet.com/videos/we-spent-90-m...

Thomas - Réponse

This is an extremely ignorant comment. VR and AR are not competitors, they serve different purposes. For gaming - where frequently you are trying to insert the player into an environment that doesn't exist - VR is required. AR can't put me in the cockpit of an F15 or a starship - VR can. Ideal would be an AR/VR hybrid...an AR headset that can become completely opaque and block out the real world if desired...can current AR devices do that?

Eric Glasper -

Can we expect a further teardown at some point? Cable? Headphones? Etc...?

Michael Daniels - Réponse

I don't like the lenses at all. Yes Fresnel lenses are cheaper to make than regular lenses, but they cause significant artifacts. The whole idea that you focus the lenses by moving the whole headset up and down on your head doesn't allow for focussing each eye separately either. All in all it seems like a massive compromise in quality for a small cost saving, and probably singlehandedly explains the comments in most reviews about blurriness.

neilcoo - Réponse

I would like to know if the lenses have an anti reflective coating on the inside?

Eamon Ho -

Dimensions of the Fresnel lens would be amazing to know. Also the distances of the inner and outer surfaces from the display(s) and the eye. I think this is key to getting the eye focus correct. Are these similar to the ones on the Lenovo ANT VR Headset accessory? (Into which you insert your phone)

vinayrrao - Réponse

On day one you said

"We don't particularly love fiddly cables connecting two halves of our hardware, but at least they're nicely labeled for reassembly... More on that later."

I was wondering how much later?

gabeh2 - Réponse

When you first reviewed the Oculus CV1 you said:

"We don't particularly love fiddly cables connecting two halves of our hardware, but at least they're nicely labeled for reassembly... More on that later."

I was wondering how much later you had in mind? Thanks!

gabeh2 - Réponse

Is Spectra 7 still in the USB cable?

max - Réponse

I'd like to see the cable busted open as well

Michael Daniels -

Confirmed. It actually contains three S7 chips. See below:

Mackie Research performed an in-house teardown of the cables, which confirmed the inclusion of three of Spectra7's chips - two "VR 7050" and one "VR 7100."

Mike Hunter -

What's the total weight of the headset?

Andrew - Réponse

can you indicate if the Spectra7 chips are inside similar to the development kit teardown?

Aman - Réponse

Whats the estimated BOM? $200 maybe?

chapas - Réponse

Is this it? When do we get an actual teardown?

Michael Daniels - Réponse

Hi! Do you have a presskit with photos?

Erika - Réponse

Hi! do you have a presskit with photos?

Erika - Réponse

Is there a mapping of the IR sensors on the front of the headset? Would love to stick a graphic to the front of my Rift and dodge all the sensors..

F4CEpa1m - Réponse

Step five is wrong. If you managed to just remove the frame "with a few well-placed flicks of the spudger" then you ripped the small hexagon screws out of their respective threads.

Eddi Lecesne - Réponse

My first time using the ifixit site.

Need to get inside this thing for an on the job examination. I removed the cable and 6 T3 screws from the housing assembly, yet with all the prying I would DARE with 2 spudgers, I still cannot get "Kato's mask" to cleanly pull free from the headset housing. Also, the black fabric seems attached securely to the lenses. I'm stumped right here. Tried calling ifixit direct but could only leave a message.

Any ideas or advice? Thanks - Ernie@ECOTNY

Ernie -

Hi Ernie! This document wasn't intended to serve as instructions, but it sounds like you're in a bind—so, I checked with the tech writer who performed the CV1 teardown. According to him: "The first pic of step 5 shows the clips you've gotta declop—If i recall, it's kinda terrible. I think the trick is pulling up enough to see in there. Everything is pretty flexible." Not sure how much help that is, but good luck with your project! Eventually we hope to have a set of actual repair guides with instructions for the Rift CV1, sometime further down the road. Cheers!

Jeff Suovanen -

@ernieaecot Did you end up getting the clips off the lenses? Trying to get them off without tearing the fabric seems to be very tricky

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Andrew White -

My unit came with the headband detached from the head mounted display. Particularly the left side. It leads mo to believe they sent me a returned product from previous customer, because my preorder came in sooner than August. I wish I could post photo because that would tell it all. I tried putting it back but it just breaks off. My problem is the 2 arms that holds the goggles that houses the chip, oled and etc, the left arm is detach and I am not sure if its designed this way. I know it allows some movement for adjustment. Please help.

preatorarsonist - Réponse

Hola, buenas tardes, i spoke little english, since you opened it , ¿ they believe can break easily fall to the ground facing the oculus ? I say this because they fell and did not detect the pc

adrian rom - Réponse

So after the tear down how would you get rid of the screen door effect?

brentarnold2002 - Réponse

Do the lenses have pincushion distortion and the displays barrel distortion to compensate, or have they been engineered to eliminate the need for display barrel distortion, and maintain full pixel resolution on the diagonal as well as the vertical.

harry - Réponse

Hi, Your work is great ! but just have a question is there a way to replace only the HDMI socket and would it work?

In my CV1 the pins in HDMI are bent and it results in seeing red dots and some lines mostly on the dark background.

I checked another cable and all is working fine so it is definitely either only the HDMI socket (most likely as I can see 2-3 bent pins) or the whole cable.

Thank You!

Rad Kon - Réponse

Hi, could you explain how the Headphones connect to allow the adjustable Straps? I have lost audio from the Left Speaker and can only get audio back if I loosen the Right side strap move it in or out!

Terence Glasgow - Réponse

Hey Terence, did you find a solution to your headphone issue? I'm having the same thing happen, now both don't work..

Jeremy -

Will be the flexible cable that runs through the head band. not much you can do about it. I have 7 Rifts here and only 1 is still working correctly. All under 12months old

Andy -

Do you have any info / insight on the components related to the IPD (inter pupillary distance) slider on the underside of the rift? I ask because it is linked with a digital, in-software readout that reports the current distance and that readout stopped working for me... was curious what kind of component linkage is going on with that slider... ? Didn't see any mention of this element of the Rift in the above article.

Jerome Graves - Réponse

I was wondering the same as I seem to have the same problem with my Rift.

Anne Caitlyn -

Its a small linear potentiometer. Left eye piece bracket moves the pot. possibly dropped out of the holder if it's been dropped. should be an easy fix

Andy -

I want to fix my oculus cv1

How could we contact?!

Dr_samah Mohamed - Réponse

My oculus was dropped. the right lens has a line going through it. how would I fix it?

PK _Gaming - Réponse

how to diassemble head strap?

no sound my right speaker

구정훈 - Réponse

Is it possible to remove the lenses so I can clean the inside? I have moisture inside the lenses and it ruins the experience!! I need to know if I can just fix it or RMA.

Trevor Tencza - Réponse

Is it possible to teardown the rift so I can clean the inside of the lenses? I have moisture on the inside of the lenses which creates unbearable “god rays”. I’m not sure if I’m able to fix it or try to RMA?

Trevor Tencza - Réponse

It's probably not moisture.. Fresnel lenses just suck like that

Brandon Rulez -

Anyone been able to identify the flexible cable that seems to be failing on many of these devices under normal operation (stretching of the side straps to put on/off head) and breaking inbuilt Rift audio?

Mine just broke of course 2 months out of warranty and Oculus basically told me to go eat a d!ck and buy a new one.

Should be an option to replace these for those out of warranty

Globe Spy - Réponse

How did you remove the small button that adjusted the lens distance?

chenchen - Réponse

Would airbrushing the front affect the ir tracking

Dustin Goodwin - Réponse

%#*@^@, still no solution for this known fail of the right earphone and the ribbon ?

where to find a replacement ribbon to fix this ?

net shaman - Réponse

Hello,

I'm selling Oculus CV1 Parts, you can contact me by e-mail at: "totto99@gmx.de". I'm from Germany so be aware of shipping cost. Currently I offer a lot of parts, because i bought a broken one Just for a working Screen. Some interesting things might be:

- 1 left Lens

- 1 right Display + Lens Combo

- whole outer housing

- HDMI connection cable for PC

Ofcourse you can also buy ALL the remainings parts (everything execpt the left Screen).

Tobias Otto - Réponse

I send you a email

mazdamx33 -

what dioptric power was the lens and how much did it vary along the vertical axis?

Mei Boon - Réponse

Thanks for the info!!! My headset is starting to freeze. I got in touch with Oculus, they checked some logs, and said it is getting hot, and of course, it is out of warranty. Is there enough space on the cowl to drill little holes in it to get some air flow going?..OR if I cut some foam off the mask, would that do the same thing? Any help would be appreciated

Terry Landis - Réponse

Hello I have a HDMI to sell in parts as there is no replacement for mine. check ebay. If your looking for parts.

Thx for the tear down, it helped a lot.

Felipe Gar - Réponse

Buenas, una consulta, ¿es posible cambiarle un sola pantalla, volviendo a poner al vacio con el lente???

Pablo Passaniti - Réponse

Is it possible to change a single (only) screen? or are the two synchronized??

Pablo Passaniti - Réponse

do you know if an oculus rift or htc vive replacement cable can fit inside hp vr1000-100?

Tommy Jørgensen - Réponse

The audio ribbon cable on my head strap broke. Is there anyway I can fix it to make my OEM headphones work? Can’t I just overlap the two ends and tape it down?

Bryan Bishop - Réponse

It’s a shame you couldn’t do more with the headstrap. The ribbon cable in there is a prime point of failure for the headphones, particularly the ground line which wraps around the back of the head from one headphone to the other (rather than both being fed from the headset)

abrannan - Réponse

The headband can be removed, but you have to cut the fabric shell of the headset to do it. There’s a pair of clips on each side of the headset holding the top and bottom halves together. If you cut the fabric over the seam, you can separate the halves and slide the headband attachment points out of the shell (after removing the 4 screws holding each in place).

abrannan - Réponse

Nice work there.

Too bad you didn’t take a look at the weakest link of the whole thing. The cable. :/

Dominik - Réponse

I have a rift and I want to know if you can actually take out the strap off from the sides. I noticed you guys didn't. The Headband springs did not let you take it apart?

ExitusVR Houston - Réponse

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