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Vidéo d'introduction

Introduction

Esta noche de viernes es el momento que todos han estado esperando: Nintendo lanzó su máquina de Zelda nueva consola, la Nintendo Switch. En este momento no jugaremos, sino que analizaremos el hardware. ¡Hora del teardown!

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Cette vue éclatée n'est pas un tutoriel de réparation. Pour réparer votre Nintendo Switch, utilisez notre manuel de réparation.

  1. ¡Feliz Switchmas a todos! Esto es lo que tiene la nueva consola híbrida de Nintendo: Procesador modificado NVIDIA Tegra
    • ¡Feliz Switchmas a todos! Esto es lo que tiene la nueva consola híbrida de Nintendo:

    • Procesador modificado NVIDIA Tegra

    • Pantalla LCD multitáctil de 6.2" con resolución 1280 × 720 (1920 × 1080 disponible vía HDMI a otra pantalla externa) integrada a la consola

    • 32 GB de almacenamiento interno (hasta 2TB de almacenamiento adicional con tarjeta microSDHC o michoSDXC)

    • Wi-Fi 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac, Bluetooth 4.1, puerto de carga USB Type-C, puerto para audífonos de 3.5mm, y tres puertos USB en el Dock

    • Altavoces estéreo

    • Batería recargable de litio-ion con duración de 2.5 a 6.5 horas de juego

    • Joy-Cons inalámbricos

  2. Los teardown son demasiado difíciles, así que nuestros amigos de Creative Electron pensaron que nos ahorrarían tiempo tomando una radiografía a la caja. Sacamos la consola de la caja, el dock, y tomamos otra radiografía por diversión. ¿Es eso una batería gruesa?
    • Los teardown son demasiado difíciles, así que nuestros amigos de Creative Electron pensaron que nos ahorrarían tiempo tomando una radiografía a la caja.

    • Sacamos la consola de la caja, el dock, y tomamos otra radiografía por diversión.

    • ¿Es eso una batería gruesa?

    • Es hora de dejar las radiografías y empezar con las herramientas.

    propaganda? where?

    Daniel Arens - Réponse

    They spy, we spy but we won't tapp that...

    Mike Atkins - Réponse

    A beefy battery? Where? *Laugh track*

    Jackson Peter Conway - Réponse

  3. Antes de empezar, veamos qué es lo que nos ofrece Nintendo. Tenemos la consola, dos Joy-Cons, el dock, y el armazón de carga para controles Joy-Con. Con los Joy-Cons acoplados a la consola, la Switch mide aproximadamente 23.8cm de ancho, 10cm de alto, y 1.27cm de grosor. La consola con los Joy-Cons acoplados pesa únicamente 400 gramos -- menos que los 500g que pesa el Wii U GamePad.
    • Antes de empezar, veamos qué es lo que nos ofrece Nintendo. Tenemos la consola, dos Joy-Cons, el dock, y el armazón de carga para controles Joy-Con.

    • Con los Joy-Cons acoplados a la consola, la Switch mide aproximadamente 23.8cm de ancho, 10cm de alto, y 1.27cm de grosor.

    • La consola con los Joy-Cons acoplados pesa únicamente 400 gramos -- menos que los 500g que pesa el Wii U GamePad.

  4. ¡Empecemos con el desmontaje! La primera cosa que vemos es el número de modelo - HAC-001. Dando una vuelta rápida, se ven los siguientes puertos:
    • ¡Empecemos con el desmontaje!

    • La primera cosa que vemos es el número de modelo - HAC-001.

    • Dando una vuelta rápida, se ven los siguientes puertos:

    • MicroSD alojado debajo de la pata de cabra (sorprendentemente dura)

    • USB-C (para el dock)

    • Jack standard de auriculares de 3.5 mm

    • Ranura para tarjeta de juegos Nintendo (patentada)

    • Las ranuras del ventilador en la parte superior del dispositivo, y los informes iniciales dicen que el Switch hace un uso intensivo de ese canal de enfriamiento cuando está en el dock y cuando se usan los gráficos a 1080p.

    Any chance the USB-C port supports Thunderbolt 3? I've been holding out hope it does and Nintendo will sell a "Pro Dock" that has an eGPU for better performance while docked.

    Toby Turner - Réponse

    You could do that with USB 3.1..

    SpyderCanopus - Réponse

    3.5mm headphone jack. You didn't mention anything about TRRS. Does that mean that there is no audio / microphone in?

    Nicholas Wagner - Réponse

  5. De manera decepcionante, los tornillos de tres puntos protegen la entrada al Switch, pero solo tenemos que mover 1/64 de nuestros músculos. Los tornillos de tres puntos son la versión de Nintendo de un cartel de "no tocar", pero una vez que los has quitado, la cubierta posterior se levanta fácilmente, sin clips ni adhesivo. Nuestro primer vistazo dentro revela: no mucho. Solo una placa de metal.
    • De manera decepcionante, los tornillos de tres puntos protegen la entrada al Switch, pero solo tenemos que mover 1/64 de nuestros músculos.

    • Los tornillos de tres puntos son la versión de Nintendo de un cartel de "no tocar", pero una vez que los has quitado, la cubierta posterior se levanta fácilmente, sin clips ni adhesivo.

    • Nuestro primer vistazo dentro revela: no mucho. Solo una placa de metal.

    • Sin embargo, una vez que no está cubierta, la tarjeta de tarjeta microSD modular es fácilmente reemplazable. ¡Buenas noticias para el almacenamiento futuro!

    Whats the model of SD card reader will it read UHS 3 SD cards??

    peacepipe_au - Réponse

    2mm Tri-Wing screws.

    Aaron Taylor - Réponse

    OK, This is extremely misleading. Good thing I’m a repair tech. There are also about 5 more phillips screws around that need to be removed before the back will come off. One by the SD card reader, one on each side in the center, 2 on the bottom and one on the top

    Jonathan White - Réponse

    Hi Jonathan, this is just a teardown, and as such we skip some disassembly steps to get to the more interesting stuff quicker. It’s not meant to be used as a repair guide. We do have more more in-depth guides here that can be referenced for repairs.

    Adam O'Camb - Réponse

    For some reason my screws were different in my switch I was trying to repair. I ordered the screwdriver that came with 2 bits and the se card reader but the bits wouldn’t fit the screws.

    caleb payne - Réponse

    There are more screws than this guide will say.

    1x middle of each joy-con rail (2 total).

    2x bottom near the charge port

    1x top near the audio jack

    1x just under the microSD flap

    each is a small Phillips head.

    Misunderstood Wookiee - Réponse

    Hi! Sorry for the confusion with screws! This is a teardown! There is a warning at the top but it might have been missed: “This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo Switch, use our service manual.”

    Chris Cline - Réponse

    The platic thread of one of the screws broke while screwing it out.. I used to push the screw a little bit to prevent over-turning the head while unscrewing - it broke while pushing. Maybe it was a bad assembly, but its worth mentioning that it can possibly break inside.. and you have to deal with a loose screw after then. (Any Ideas?)

    Varco - Réponse

  6. Y ahora, por el momento que todos hemos estado esperando ... la revelación interna. ¡Finalmente está sucediendo!
    • Y ahora, por el momento que todos hemos estado esperando ... la revelación interna. ¡Finalmente está sucediendo!

    • ¡Parece... un ordenador! Batería, tubo de calor, pasta térmica, ventilador. Todo esta ahí.

    • Las prioridades del Switch son claramente la batería y la refrigeración.

    • Por el aspecto de esa gota púrpura, esta placa de metal es más que un soporte estructural. También es un disipador de calor que canaliza el calor del tubo a la carcasa trasera.

    • Esto debería difundir el calor, evitando puntos calientes que podrían derretir el plástico o quemarte los dedos.

    If we were to remove the back plate, what should we use to replace the purple compound used to transfer heat. Should we use typical CPU/GPU thermal paste such as Arctic Silver or is it even necessary to replace the compound?

    Ambyli - Réponse

    i don’t think it would hurt to do so, but i am no expert.

    Grockle88 _ - Réponse

    I would like to replace the purple glob with a copper shim, any guesses to the distance between the heat sink and aluminum shield?

    Alan Li - Réponse

    is the battery a single or multi-cell unit?

    joseph.s.schaefer - Réponse

  7. La seguridad es lo primero: desenchufamos el conector de la batería antes de hacer palanca para quitarla de su adhesivo. La mayoría de las consolas tienen una fuente de alimentación, en lugar de una batería, pero la portabilidad del Switch requiere energía inalámbrica. Y eso generalmente significa una vida útil limitada. A diferencia del 3DS, la batería del Switch no debe ser reemplazable por el usuario. En cambio, Nintendo "planea" ofrecer un programa de reemplazo pagado.
    • La seguridad es lo primero: desenchufamos el conector de la batería antes de hacer palanca para quitarla de su adhesivo.

    • La mayoría de las consolas tienen una fuente de alimentación, en lugar de una batería, pero la portabilidad del Switch requiere energía inalámbrica. Y eso generalmente significa una vida útil limitada.

    • A diferencia del 3DS, la batería del Switch no debe ser reemplazable por el usuario. En cambio, Nintendo "planea" ofrecer un programa de reemplazo pagado.

    • El Switch incluye una batería de 16 Wh, más grande que la batería reemplazable de 5.6 Wh en el Wii U GamePad. Una vez más, esto está alimentando una consola, no solo una pantalla.

    How is this battery not "User replaceable"?

    Bally - Réponse

    It means is not that easy, you have to tear it down almost completely in order to replace it.

    Ricardo Briceño - Réponse

    The lack of a user replaceable battery in this thing is BY FAR the lamest thing about it IMO... Though unfortunatly to be fair Vita's the same way. SO crazy lame.

    Also sort of weird it has a cooling fan. I wasn't expecting that. Maybe it's off when undocked and running slower?

    wolfpup3 - Réponse

    whats the weight of the switch battery in grams? and what type of battery cell is it?

    justin thorpe - Réponse

    @Ricardo - I’m no fan of having to tear it down a bit to replace the battery, but this is by no means having to “tear it down almost completely in order to replace it.” I mean dude, steps 1-5 of this tear down consist of looking at the device, identifying the ports, and removing a few screws. After the screws you just lift the metal shield and unplug your battery. Not exactly rocket science. Step 5 even says, “but once you're past them the back cover lifts off easily—no clips or adhesive” so this couldn’t possibly get any easier. In fact after I remove those tri-point screws, I’ll just replace them with normal screws for future ease.

    Army Turtle - Réponse

    Can this battery be charged by power bank ? (5V 1-2A?) any recomendations how to “mobile-charge” this console ?

    Rodryk Pawłowski - Réponse

    Yes, it can be done. With a 20000 mAh power bank the portable console can last at least 10 hours while enjoying a game like MHXX.

    Irrawa -

    Hello, my battery connector is broken. Anybody knows where can I buy a new one?

    Thanks,

    joan

    Joan - Réponse

  8. Con la batería vencida, pasamos a la siguiente prioridad de hardware: el sistema de enfriamiento. El  tubo termosifón bifásico  está sujeto con tornillos Phillips simples, lo que significa que la aplicación de pasta térmica debería ser muy sencilla. Apuntamos al ventilador, pero parece que solo puede limpiarlo desde aquí; está atrapado debajo de la placa de E/S.
    • Con la batería vencida, pasamos a la siguiente prioridad de hardware: el sistema de enfriamiento.

    • El tubo termosifón bifásico está sujeto con tornillos Phillips simples, lo que significa que la aplicación de pasta térmica debería ser muy sencilla.

    • Apuntamos al ventilador, pero parece que solo puede limpiarlo desde aquí; está atrapado debajo de la placa de E/S.

    • Entonces sacamos el lector de tarjetas de juego y el conector para auriculares adjunto.

    • Y no, no lamimos ningún cartucho.

    Is the 3.5 mm jack a TRS or TRRS?

    Erin Lewis - Réponse

    Is the chassis metal? It looks metalic through the screw holes.

    alan mail - Réponse

    Yes. It is metallic.

    Diego Salerno - Réponse

    @elrinley I’m sure you’ve figured this out by now, but according to Nintendo the jack is a 4-pole headphone/mic jack.

    https://www.nintendo.com/switch/tech-spe...

    I was looking for the same information and ended up here! :)

    ckoerner - Réponse

  9. Con la placa de E/S libre, podemos centrarnos en el ventilador. Este ventilador electrónico Delta se mantiene en su lugar mediante tres tornillos con soportes de amortiguación de vibraciones de goma, y ​​está clasificado para 5 V y 0,33 A. Un ventilador puede ser la sentencia de muerte para la duración de la batería en cualquier dispositivo portátil, por lo que tiene sentido que los rumores indiquen que los gráficos se reducen drásticamente cuando no está en el dock.
    • Con la placa de E/S libre, podemos centrarnos en el ventilador.

    • Este ventilador electrónico Delta se mantiene en su lugar mediante tres tornillos con soportes de amortiguación de vibraciones de goma, y ​​está clasificado para 5 V y 0,33 A.

    • Un ventilador puede ser la sentencia de muerte para la duración de la batería en cualquier dispositivo portátil, por lo que tiene sentido que los rumores indiquen que los gráficos se reducen drásticamente cuando no está en el dock.

    • Además de ahorrar energía al meter menos píxeles, esto también debería permitir que el Switch ahorre batería al hacer funcionar el ventilador un poco menos.

    I have a switch that won't power up but clicks for a few seconds when the new battery is replaced. Is it the fan taking the power so it can boot up or is it the fan is broken and prevents it from starting up?

    Kirsty Cobbold - Réponse

  10. Esta es una placa base bien conectada; para liberarla, sacamos los conectores del digitalizador, la luz de fondo, los altavoces, las dos antenas y los dos rieles Joy-Con. Y luego quitamos seis tornillos Phillips. Pero bueno, esa es una modularidad increíble. ¡Incluso el almacenamiento eMMC sale con una PCB independiente! Nintendo hizo una tableta de 6.2" con almacenamiento flash extraíble, así que no digas que no se puede hacer.
    • Esta es una placa base bien conectada; para liberarla, sacamos los conectores del digitalizador, la luz de fondo, los altavoces, las dos antenas y los dos rieles Joy-Con. Y luego quitamos seis tornillos Phillips.

    • Pero bueno, esa es una modularidad increíble. ¡Incluso el almacenamiento eMMC sale con una PCB independiente!

    • Nintendo hizo una tableta de 6.2" con almacenamiento flash extraíble, así que no digas que no se puede hacer.

    • La placa de almacenamiento contiene un solo IC Flask eMMC NAND Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL de 32 GB.

    • Lamentablemente, la modularidad termina en el puerto USB-C. Este componente de alto desgaste requerirá algunas habilidades de soldadura intensas para reemplazarlo.

    What does "Side-A" of the HAC-EMMC daughter board containing the single Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL 32 GB eMMC NAND Flash IC look like?

    Jonathan Stanley - Réponse

    The USB port is soldered to the board conatining the most important hardware? I'd almost call this a form of planned obsolescence

    Nicola Pfister - Réponse

    my usb c port just gave up on me and nintendo say it's not covered under the warranty. … the switch has hardly left the dock! nintendo say 175 pounds to replace the port! looks like i need to find another option! like learn to solder!

    steve -

    Is the flash soldered on to the PCB? If so, I wonder how hard it is to remove and swap with a bigger eMMC flash drive from Toshiba.

    Jerome Santander - Réponse

    Looks like a Toshiba does make a 512Gb NAND flash model. Now the only question is can you switch between two flashes before bootup with this.

    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e...

    b0n3z - Réponse

    I just succesfully  soldered a new usb C port to the switch but it's pretty hard to do.

    First of all, I used a hot air soldering workstation. Replaced all the (presumably) leadfree solder with normal leaded solder for better flexibility and a lower melting point. The difficult part is to make both rows of connections connect. This can be achieved by heating the board on the other side while somehow keeping pressure on the usbport and making sure the plastic components of the usbport don't melt. Quite a challenge!

    What did the trick, for me at least, was to cut out a metal strip from a soda can, folded over and cut to the exact same width as to cover the plastic and serve as a heatshield. Also I used no-clean solderflux.

    dan.kusters - Réponse

    Nice. Thanks for sharing your experience.

    Lisandro Duran -

    I also replaced the USb C port with a hot air soldering station. The most difficult part was to clean the 4 holes on the pbc that anchor the port. They must be completely cleaned from any soldering residual because you need to be able to freely push the port down against the pbc once the 24 ports pads are heated and with the solder melted.

    Diego Salerno - Réponse

  11. Una pequeña colección de circuitos integrados puebla la parte frontal de la placa base:
    • Una pequeña colección de circuitos integrados puebla la parte frontal de la placa base:

    • NVIDIA ODNX02-A2 (presumiblemente el SoC basado en Tegra X1)

    • DRAM LPDDR4 de 2 GB Samsung K4F6E304HB-MGCH (x2 para un total de 4 GB)

    • Broadcom / Cypress BCM4356 802.11ac 2 × 2 + Bluetooth 4.1 SoC

    • Maxim Integrated MAX77621AEWI + T regulador trifásico de inversión (x2)

    • M92T36 630380 IC de administración de energía

    Is that an LCI near the USB-C connector?

    Positive Intent - Réponse

    There’s the connectivity issue! The series elements in the T-networks feeding the RF connectors are unpopulated, meaning the antennas aren’t connected. This is probably causing a 20dB-40dB hit in RF performance and decreasing battery life. If this is a production unit, Nintendo has a recall on their hands; software can’t fix that.

    john horne - Réponse

    To be fair, there is a chance those series components have a tiny net tie across them, shorting them out. I can't tell from these photos. This would be cheaper than a jumper resistor, even at $0.001 each. They avoided slikscreen which does indicate they might be trying to aggressively keep PCB costs down. I wish I could get a closer look.

    john horne -

    What kind of adapter would you choose to replace the battery interface adapter? JST EH5P ST90 or something else?

    Hans Müller - Réponse

    Has anyone found the original manufacturer and partnumber of the USB-Port?

    I did find a part that looks similar, but not perfectly the same: Amphenol-MCP 101-C4740-02432

    Benedikt M. - Réponse

    Where do you get MAX77621AEWI+T ? Nobody has them in stock.

    chayney shuck - Réponse

    Im surprised this didnt lose reparability points for the soldered rather than replaceable usb port.

    Kiernan - Réponse

    Is the ram upgradable or directly soldered? If upgradable, would it require software, or do you think it is plug & play?

    azileangel4u - Réponse

    Unfortunately the RAM’s directly soldered.

    Adam O'Camb -

  12. Y en la parte posterior de la placa base:
    • Y en la parte posterior de la placa base:

    • Conmutador de matriz USB 3.0 / DP1.2 PI3USB30532 de Pericom Semiconductor

    • Códec de audio Realtek ALC5639

    • Maxim Integrated MAX77620AEWJ + T PMIC

    • B1633 GCBRG HAC STD T1001216

    How come the accelerometer and gyroscope was never labeled for both the main system or the controllers? I didn’t even know the main system had them until a researched out Super Mario Party did it’s adjacent screens trick. Then I checked Nintendo’s own website which states that it has one.

    obiwankenobi23 - Réponse

    Modern accel + gyro ICs are tiny and often use cryptic package markings that can take a fair bit of work for us to identify. We’d love to research and label them all, but we don’t always have the time. They’re definitely in there though!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  13. Los altavoces estéreo están ligeramente adheridos a la carcasa trasera, pero no difícil sacarlos. Estos altavoces están tratando de ensalzar los graves. Los diafragmas más grandes desplazarán más aire, y una parte posterior con puerto permite bajos más pronunciados. Pero los informes iniciales dicen que aún "favorecen los agudos". Los tornillos Phillips sujetan un riel Joy-Con a cada extremo de la consola.
    • Los altavoces estéreo están ligeramente adheridos a la carcasa trasera, pero no difícil sacarlos.

    • Estos altavoces están tratando de ensalzar los graves. Los diafragmas más grandes desplazarán más aire, y una parte posterior con puerto permite bajos más pronunciados. Pero los informes iniciales dicen que aún "favorecen los agudos".

    • Los tornillos Phillips sujetan un riel Joy-Con a cada extremo de la consola.

    • Cada riel tiene un conjunto de contactos de clavija que se entrelazan con los contactos del Joy-Cons para pasar la carga, y el botón presiona la placa base a través del cable plano.

    Do you know similar speakers which can be used as replacement?

    Jube - Réponse

    Im not sure, but they look the same as the New 3ds ones

    tbolado -

    I was able to successfully replace mine with a New 3DS speaker

    Mptp - Réponse

    My left speaker just blew!! how does the 3DS speaker hold up ?

    Scott Jones - Réponse

  14. A diferencia de muchos dispositivos modernos con pantalla táctil, el digitalizador en el Switch no está unido a la pantalla, lo que significa que puedes reemplazar las dos partes de forma independiente. ¡Gracias por tener en cuenta la reparabilidad, Nintendo! El digitalizador está adherido por una tira adhesiva de doble cara que se extiende alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla. Con un poco de calentamiento y palanca, logramos separar el digitalizador. Pero con toda nuestra emoción, nuestro veloz desmontaje cortó el cable de datos del digitalizador. Se advierte a los reparadores, este libro se abre a lo largo.
    • A diferencia de muchos dispositivos modernos con pantalla táctil, el digitalizador en el Switch no está unido a la pantalla, lo que significa que puedes reemplazar las dos partes de forma independiente. ¡Gracias por tener en cuenta la reparabilidad, Nintendo!

    • El digitalizador está adherido por una tira adhesiva de doble cara que se extiende alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla. Con un poco de calentamiento y palanca, logramos separar el digitalizador.

    • Pero con toda nuestra emoción, nuestro veloz desmontaje cortó el cable de datos del digitalizador. Se advierte a los reparadores, este libro se abre a lo largo.

    Is the digitizer glass or plastic??

    Paul Reynolds - Réponse

    ^^ I'd like to know this as well.

    Lucas Luxton - Réponse

    It feels like and flexes like plastic.

    dave - Réponse

    It is plastic.

    Evan Noronha - Réponse

    It's perma-fused to the plastic, I take it? If so I'm rather disappointed. I'm not fond of screen protectors and would much rather someone put out a replacement instead.

    Erin Lewis - Réponse

    So the Screen is technically replaceable? Would it be possible to put a new screen on?

    Mitchell Laurence - Réponse

    It technically can but be aware the process is quite extensive and technical so in other words if you need a replacement screen, either pay a professional, not some dude off CL who says he can to do it or watch a lot of how-to videos and USE the right tools. I work at a business that fixes cellphones professionally so believe me when I say it can be done but very, very meticulous and technical.

    Josh McCard -

  15. ¿Y por la guinda de este pastel? ¡La pantalla LCD es fácilmente extraíble!
    • ¿Y por la guinda de este pastel? ¡La pantalla LCD es fácilmente extraíble!

    • Aumentar la portabilidad de un dispositivo generalmente significa aumentar su probabilidad de caerse. Así que, Nintendo marca el camino al hacer que un dispositivo más frágil sea más reparable.

    • Con eso, la consola se despacha, pero aún no hemos terminado.

    • Ahora, ¿dónde pusimos esos mandos...?

    hello , is it IPS or TN or VA LCD ?

    ttt ttt - Réponse

    IPS by Japan Display Inc. But what is the LCD model #?

    Girl Usocrzy - Réponse

    hello there i was wondering what type of connecter does screen have

    sir spudly - Réponse

  16. Nintendo proporcionó algunos códigos de colores para recordarnos que estos Joy-Cons aparentemente idénticos en realidad albergan hardware diferente. Con diferentes contenidos vienen diferentes números de modelo: el controlador azul neón se identifica como HAC-015, mientras que el rojo neón es HAC-016. El Neon no es lo tuyo? Si eres bueno con las pegatinas, puedes enmascarar sus verdaderos colores con una segunda piel.
    • Nintendo proporcionó algunos códigos de colores para recordarnos que estos Joy-Cons aparentemente idénticos en realidad albergan hardware diferente.

    • Con diferentes contenidos vienen diferentes números de modelo: el controlador azul neón se identifica como HAC-015, mientras que el rojo neón es HAC-016.

    • El Neon no es lo tuyo? Si eres bueno con las pegatinas, puedes enmascarar sus verdaderos colores con una segunda piel.

    • Los Joy-Cons no son impermeables, y Nintendo incluso recomienda que no los uses cerca de tu pecera.

    • ... o un ordenador portátil, auriculares inalámbricos, impresora inalámbrica, microondas, altavoces inlámbricos, reloj inteligente, teléfono inalámbrico, básicamente, mejor usarlo en una cueva.

    Any idea on the type of plastic for the Joy-Con shells? ABS, nylon, something else (if so, what)?

    Jonathan Stanley - Réponse

    If you didn't already notice- the step 17 photos of the inside of the shells seem to indicate it's polycarbonate + ABS

    David Eltzroth -

    I sort of wish I'd been able to get the model that includes the red/blue controllers LOL

    wolfpup3 - Réponse

    I broke my Joy Con a while back and the 2L button is missing. Would you happen to know where I can get a replacement part for that?

    Clinton Wong - Réponse

    3D printer: www.thingiverse.com Search “Nintendo Switch Joycon”

    Army Turtle -

  17. Aunque no somos genetistas, sacamos el spudger como bisturí para comparar a estos gemelos fraternos. Cada mando está equipado con una batería de iones de litio de 1.9 Wh, Bluetooth, acelerómetro/giroscopio y un motor "HD Rumble" (como háptico). Los reemplazos de batería ciertamente no son tan fáciles como en los mandos remotos Wii originales, pero se puede hacer.
    • Aunque no somos genetistas, sacamos el spudger como bisturí para comparar a estos gemelos fraternos.

    • Cada mando está equipado con una batería de iones de litio de 1.9 Wh, Bluetooth, acelerómetro/giroscopio y un motor "HD Rumble" (como háptico).

    • Los reemplazos de batería ciertamente no son tan fáciles como en los mandos remotos Wii originales, pero se puede hacer.

    • Nintendo afirma que los mandos Joy-Con ofrecen hasta 20 horas de tiempo de juego, pero llevará un total de 3.5 horas cargarlos nuevamente.

    • Si eso no es suficiente, la mando de carga Joy-Con agrega un refuerzo de batería y una empuñadura (más ergonómica).

    Might want to clarify that the Joy-Con charging grip does not have a battery so there is no boost from the grip itself. You have to plug the grip into a power source (through USB) to get the joy-cons to charge at all when they are attached to the charging grip. Otherwise the grip acts exactly like the included non-charging grip.

    Brice Gilbert - Réponse

    Oh goody...more sealed proprietary batteries. LAME.

    wolfpup3 - Réponse

    The right joycon has a little black card slotted next to the battery. Anyone know what that is?

    Phrik Graves - Réponse

    • Ha habido rumores tempranos de problemas de durabilidad con el mecanismo de riel para las unidades Joy-Con, por lo que hacemos una pausa para verlo más de cerca.

    • El riel en sí, en el borde de la consola Switch, es de metal y parece que debería aguantar bastante bien.

    • Su compañero en el lado del Joy-Con es de plástico, que probablemente sea exactamente lo que deseas: cualquier fallo probablemente se produzca en el mando desmontable, que debería ser más barato para reparar o reemplazar si es necesario.

    This piece of plastic in joy-con can be exchanged for example metal? It should be better than plastic

    Robert - Réponse

    Where would I find the metal replacement ?

    Chris Cruz - Réponse

    For replacement, search google for Alloy Buckle Lock

    Niklas Hansen - Réponse

  18. Los controladores arrojan su piel para una comparación de primer plano. Te traemos, rojo vs. azul. No somos superficiales: lo que hay dentro es lo que cuenta. El Joy-Con rojo sale con hardware IR y una antena NFC. El hardware IR consta de una cámara IR y cuatro LEDs IR. Nintendo dice que la cámara puede detectar diferentes formas de manos, distancia y en el futuro podrá grabar videos. En cuanto a los LED, nuestra apuesta es que proyectan luz IR sobre objetos cercanos para que sean más fáciles de identificar.
    • Los controladores arrojan su piel para una comparación de primer plano. Te traemos, rojo vs. azul.

    • No somos superficiales: lo que hay dentro es lo que cuenta. El Joy-Con rojo sale con hardware IR y una antena NFC.

    • El hardware IR consta de una cámara IR y cuatro LEDs IR. Nintendo dice que la cámara puede detectar diferentes formas de manos, distancia y en el futuro podrá grabar videos. En cuanto a los LED, nuestra apuesta es que proyectan luz IR sobre objetos cercanos para que sean más fáciles de identificar.

    • ¿Sabes lo que ambos tienen? Dos tornillos Phillips sujetando el joystick y dos tornillos Phillips sujetando el tablero. Eso es lo que tienen.

    • Azul, estás ahí para nosotros los reparadores, cuando sea necesario.

    • En la parte inferior de cada uno existe un fuerte motor HD Rumble que pesa 5.5 gramos.

    I had to send my Left Joy-Con for a repair on day one because the L button was acting erratically. I first noticed it when I tried to write my credit card number. I had made a mistake and tried to go back using tbe L button. When I pressed the button, my text cursor moved all the way to the left even though the button was in normal position (seemingly unpressed).

    I wonder what caused this. Fun fact: Pressing the plastic piece between ZL and L button activated the sensor for L button.

    Does the iFixit team has any idea what caused my problem? Thanks!

    Philippe Morin - Réponse

    Any component info on the Joystick? Manufacturer ROM etc?

    Eamonn Clerkin - Réponse

    the left Joy-Con Joystick and the right Joy-Con Joystick are the same?

    4646dudu - Réponse

    does some one know what could be the problem, after replacing the joy stick everythink works fine except that the switch doesn’t detect the joy con attached to it but if i conect it to it, it stills charge the joy con

    Rodrigo Barba - Réponse

    Left joy-con zif connector has lifted from the motherboard everything is intact and connected to the connection ribbon how do you reattach the actual white piece to the motherboard???

    Zeshi - Réponse

  19. Colocamos las placas del mando en busca de más silicio. Aquí está el tablero rojo lleno de funciones en todo su esplendor (el tablero azul tiene una forma un poco diferente, pero tiene la mayoría de los mismos): Transceptor Bluetooth de 4.1/2.4 GHz Broadcom BCM20734
    • Colocamos las placas del mando en busca de más silicio. Aquí está el tablero rojo lleno de funciones en todo su esplendor (el tablero azul tiene una forma un poco diferente, pero tiene la mayoría de los mismos):

    • Transceptor Bluetooth de 4.1/2.4 GHz Broadcom BCM20734

    • STMicroelectronics NFCBEA 812006 33 (Lector de NFC IC probable)

    • Flash CMOS Macronix International MX25U4033E de 4 Mb

    The chip in the center of the board is probably a Bosch BMI160 (6-DOF Inertial sensor)

    Luko - Réponse

    Would love to see photos of both controller PCBs. Only one side is shown.

    Jeff Keyzer - Réponse

    I would also like to have both joy-con because I had to send the Left one for a repair because I had troubles with the L button.

    Philippe Morin - Réponse

    Is that white quad next to home button LED?

    Damian Wielk - Réponse

    Does anyone know whether the joycons use this chip in Classic/EDR mode, or in Smart/LE mode?

    fury - Réponse

    How can I buy this whole piece?

    Fantasia Ford - Réponse

  20. Actualización de desmontaje: solo para asegurarnos de que nos llenábamos de salsa secreta, sacamos la parte superior del motor de retroalimentación háptica, un actuador resonante lineal (LRA) que alimenta el HD Rumble del Switch. Estos LRA se parecen mucho a los que extrajimos de los mandos Oculus Touch, HTC Vive y Steam Controller. Tomamos un segundo para abrir un motor háptico Oculus Touch y parece ser internamente idéntico a este.
    • Actualización de desmontaje: solo para asegurarnos de que nos llenábamos de salsa secreta, sacamos la parte superior del motor de retroalimentación háptica, un actuador resonante lineal (LRA) que alimenta el HD Rumble del Switch.

    • Estos LRA se parecen mucho a los que extrajimos de los mandos Oculus Touch, HTC Vive y Steam Controller.

    • Tomamos un segundo para abrir un motor háptico Oculus Touch y parece ser internamente idéntico a este.

    • En el interior, este motor de vibración parece bastante estándar. Esencialmente es una bobina de voz instalada en un conjunto de masa móvil, flanqueada por un par de potentes imanes.

    • Sin embargo, es interesante que este LRA parezca vibrar a lo largo de su eje corto, mientras que muchos motores de retroalimentación háptica que hemos visto vibran a lo largo de su eje largo.

    What, no slow mo video?

    kyletallent - Réponse

    If it is like this haptic module, it appears to be able to oscillate in 2 axes: http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Act...

    Aziz Nawrozie - Réponse

    pretty sure it is the Alps dual axis haptic. It only needs two wires because the magnets are polarized diagonally.

    Max Chen - Réponse

    it occilates in two directions at different frequencies. Only needs two wires because the magnets are magnetized diagonally (half the face is North and half is South.)

    Max Chen - Réponse

  21. Antes de irrumpir en la casa del Switch, hicimos que nuestros amigos de Creative Electron realizaran un reconocimiento. No queríamos encontrarnos ninguna trampa explosiva. Seamos honestos: esa imagen de rayos X es más genial que nuestros hallazgos. Para todos los efectos, el dock consta de una placa en una caja con un puñado de puertos que incluyen: Dos puertos USB 2.0
    • Antes de irrumpir en la casa del Switch, hicimos que nuestros amigos de Creative Electron realizaran un reconocimiento. No queríamos encontrarnos ninguna trampa explosiva.

    • Seamos honestos: esa imagen de rayos X es más genial que nuestros hallazgos. Para todos los efectos, el dock consta de una placa en una caja con un puñado de puertos que incluyen:

    • Dos puertos USB 2.0

    • Puerto adaptador de CA

    • Puerto HDMI

    • Un puerto USB 3.0

    • Según Nintendo, el puerto USB trasero solo tendrá soporte USB 2.0 en el lanzamiento. Una actualización futura traerá soporte para USB 3.0.

    thanks for info on this.

    does this dock board have power regulator/protection/fuse/whateveryoumaycallit that protects the switch in case the official charger goes haywire?

    MyPerk Tv - Réponse

    How much ampere are the USB ports ??

    iltenerone - Réponse

    What is the FFC connected to?

    Adam Cove - Réponse

  22. Chips en el dock: Flash CMOS de 512 Kb Macronix International MX25L512E
    • Chips en el dock:

    • Flash CMOS de 512 Kb Macronix International MX25L512E

    • Flash CMOS de 2 Mb Macronix International MX25V2006E

    • Convertidor Megachips STDP2550 de Mobility DisplayPort (MyDP) a HDMI

    • M92T17 623382

    • STMicroelectronics 32P048

    • Controlador de hub VIA 3.0 VL210 USB Labs

    • M92T55 633416

    Got some issues with the coloring of your little rectangles. M92T55 is pink on the photo, and the M92T17 is dark blue.

    LDM - Réponse

    What's the dimension of the motherboard?

    Zero - Réponse

    I would love it if someone could provide a drawing of the motherboard with dimensions in inches. For 3d printing purposes.

    Rcmaniac Ten -

    can get a name/model of the ribbon cable from the board that finishes as usb-c?

    rusenikolovski - Réponse

    I need the same information. Have you figured it out yet?

    The Real JaeLinx -

    I need another ribbon cable. What type would be a good replacement

    The Real JaeLinx - Réponse

    M92T17 is an ROHM chip.

    Blue - Réponse

    What’s the part on the dock pcb that holds the ribbon cable (zif connector )

    Hooligan - 69 - Réponse

  23. ¡Es hora de obsequiarte con nuestra mejor colección de tomas de disposición! Aquí están los elementos internos de Nintendo Switch delicadamente colocados. ¡Gracias de nuevo a nuestros héroes con super visión en Creative Electron! Ahora vamos a volver a armar esto tan rápido como podamos, es hora de jugar.
    • ¡Es hora de obsequiarte con nuestra mejor colección de tomas de disposición! Aquí están los elementos internos de Nintendo Switch delicadamente colocados.

    • ¡Gracias de nuevo a nuestros héroes con super visión en Creative Electron!

    • Ahora vamos a volver a armar esto tan rápido como podamos, es hora de jugar.

  24. Dernières pensées
    • Excepto en el digitalizador, se utilizan tornillos en lugar de adhesivo para mantener los componentes en su lugar.
    • La mayoría de los componentes, incluidos los sticks analógicos, el lector de cartuchos de juego y el conector para auriculares, son modulares y se pueden reemplazar.
    • Las baterías, aunque están adheridas a su carcasa, son modulares y pueden ser reemplazadas por los usuarios finales.
    • El digitalizador y la pantalla no están pegados, lo que reduce el costo de reparación pero aumenta la complejidad.
    • Los tornillos patentados de tres puntos impiden que los usuarios abran el Switch.
    • Reemplazar una pantalla o digitalizador requiere calentar y hacer palanca contra un adhesivo fuerte.
    Indice de réparabilité
    8
    Indice de réparabilité de 8 sur 10
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133 commentaires

So there's 4GB RAM?

Christopher Meyer - Réponse

Yes it has 4GB of RAM in the form of 2x 16Gb (or 2 gigabyte each) Samsung LPDDR4 RAM chips.

acaaew -

Does the HD Rumble operate the same way Apple's Taptic Engine works?

Dimitri Bouniol - Réponse

Probably not. The Taptic Engine is a linear oscillator, but the Switch probably uses a 3-D oscillator: That means the weight can move freely in all three directions.

Ethan Zuo -

Single pair of wires means single axis of movement.

Lemming -

two wires true, but magnets are magnetized diagonally and the W shape of the spring arms gives different spring rate in X and Y. Powered, the coil moved diagonally to the corner. Once let go, it occilates in different frequencies in X and Y.

Max Chen -

surprised to learn there's 4GB of RAM

Kai - Réponse

Well it's double the RAM in the Wii U. Four times as much if you count the 1 GB used by the Wii U OS when not playing games.

Ethan Zuo -

But also let's not compare Apples and Oranges, ARM architecture needs much less RAM than x86 to perform well, you can't simply compare ARM, PowerPC and x86 with 4GB of RAM and think they will all have the same performance.

theSUBVERSIVE -

<<<But also let's not compare Apples and Oranges, ARM architecture needs much less RAM than x86 to perform well>>>

No it doesn't. That's just...not correct at all.

And yeah, Switch has 2x the RAM as Wii U, though who knows how much will be accessible by games. Obviously all consoles reserve some RAM, but for some reason the Wii U reserved half of it (though that still left more than 2x the RAM versus 360 and PS3, which is maybe why they didn't care that they were reserving so much).

wolfpup3 -

Does the micro sd slot support UHS II (ie. has support for two rows of pins inside)? No one seems to care about this info in the teardowns lol

rosta.pospisil - Réponse

I care a lot myself too. I would even like to know what spec version of the SD Association it supports. Does it only comply to version 3.01 (UHS-1) or could it comply to the new 5.1 version or even 6.0?

Philippe Morin -

Thank god i'm not the only one that cares about this. The difference between UHS-I and II could mean half of game load times from the microSD.

Ashler -

I too would like to know this. [and on all devices.]

Josh -

Looking at the photos, It does not have the extra pins, it only has 8 legs, common for a plain SD card reader.

Toby Webb -

Game load times always seem to be CPU bottlenecked on consoles anyway.

alexatkin -

Please deconstruct the rumble motor

Vince - Réponse

Possibly the most interesting part of the design.

fastm3driver -

Do we know the thermal envelope of the cpu/gpu? I'm wondering if it's on the verge of needing a fan. If so, a die shrink version might not need the fan anymore freeing up a lot of space for a bigger battery.

fastm3driver -

Added! Check out step 21.

Evan Noronha -

I agree with Vince, I'd love to see what's inside that rumble pack. I'm betting on the same thing apple has with their taptic, but with a slightly heavier weight.

Ryan Mitchell - Réponse

I really want to know what's inside the hd rumble motor! Sounds more complex than Apple's one...

Mr. Doge - Réponse

Modular eMMC? I smell bigger storage variant from Nintendo.. Anytime Soon..

Yosia Sulistian - Réponse

Makes me wonder if we could clone the drive onto a larger drive.

vegetaban -

Like the wiiU they know it's kinda a small amount but most people won't care at launch. I bet they even double it by xmas. Or make a more expensive version with the charging dock, 64 memory, and a Zelda or mario included. It will seem like a deal!

fastm3driver -

Guys any info on the antenna in the main body of the console or joycons for the broadcom chips? I cant see much of a BT antenna in the joycons at all from the pics. Unless theyre PCB etched?

Patrick Frost - Réponse

The BT antenna in the blue joycon is pcb etched, just on the outside of the joystick. I don’t see it on the red joycon pcb at all, though.

sigoshi -

Can we get an x-ray of the HD rumble motor? Would be interesting to see how it works and whether it's a similar mechanism to the Taptic Engine.

Jason - Réponse

Jason, I'm assuming that you are wanting a video of the LRA in action as a static X-ray of the device would look pretty much like what the teardown looks like only with less color. There's an awful lot of metal there and it's just going to look like a dark block.

Actually, if you look at the X-ray of the system with attached controllers, you can easily make out the dark blocks that are the LRAs.

ritslvids -

Would it be theoretically possible to deliver HDMI over USB-C when you are not docked? I'm thinking when you visit a friend and you don't want to bring the dock etc. to play on a big screen.

Marc Schiller - Réponse

You can disassemble the dock and bring the internal board along

Cuong Phan -

Let the time work. I think there will be cables to get the HDMI out of the USB C. In the past, for every console there was a lot of non Nintendo accessories from third-party. Why should it be other this time?

TheLOD2010 -

There are many YouTube vids trying out different USB-C 2 HDMI docs, but AFAIK there is noone which works until now.

I tested it myself with the Microsoft Display Dock for its latest Lumias, but it did not work. Hopefully there will be a solution soon as I use my switch docked at two different locations and do not want to pack the dock everytime.

alex.saternus -

Megachips STDP2550 Mobility DisplayPort (MyDP) to HDMI Converter, part of the dock. You need a MyDP to HDMI converter, as the Switch puts out DP and not HDMI.

Xander Zoolander -

Theres no Nintendo word write on the board why this is not a Nintendo console?

Ricardo CB Pereira - Réponse

This is a Nintendo Console.

Reid Fleishman -

Does anyone know what the voltage range of the AC adapter is? Is it 100-240 V AC considering the Switch is now a region free console?

Sagat - Réponse

It's USB-C on the console and the dock. Any USB-C charger should provide a charge - so if you had an international charger that supports USB-C you should be good. One of the photos shows 15V / 2.6A input on the dock and the same on the tablet itself.

The x-ray they show at the top shows the US-style prongs on the charger and those are sold supporting US voltage only with a built-in USB-C cable (i.e. the cable can't be unplugged and used on a different adapter)

Jimmy -

The charger that came with my US Switch is rated 100-240. Finally I can throw my transformer away.

Tim Hurley -

Region free powersupply's are very common these days. They are cheap. Under 75W they are more cheaper, because in the EU you will need PFC over 75W. Active PFC is expensive, so a non region free supply will be get more benefit to the manufacturer @75W+.

So the charger of the Switch and every Phone are under 75W and can be build simply with an PSU driver chip and only a few more components. For every Voltage.

TheLOD2010 -

Although it is true that 100-240V power supplies are very common, previous Nintendo portables have been something of an outlier in this regard. The charger with my 3DSXL was 120 only, and that was 2012, years after 100-240 was standard elsewhere.

Tim Hurley -

I wonder if the Bluetooth transceiver different in both joy con, as there are connection problems in the left one but not in the right one.

PKMGO Ajimu - Réponse

no cartridges teardown

yenmax - Réponse

Well it would be pretty boring. It's just a 16 GB storage chip on a fiberglass board with gold-plated contacts.

Ethan Zuo -

Wow, 16GB cartridges? That's pretty awesome! I loved back in the day when Nintendo Power would list cartridge sizes, just because I'm curious about stuff like that...wish I knew how big a given 3DS/DS/Vita game I'm playing was.

wolfpup3 -

Lick the cartridge!

Ethan Zuo - Réponse

Please!!!!!!!

Ethan Zuo -

There's definitely 4GB of RAM inside of the Switch...two 2GB chips of LPDDR4.

Brent Murphree - Réponse

Max bandwidth of the 3.0 port for the console? Could be very telling when/if Nintendo launches a dock with an upgraded GPU in it that could (possibly) run in SLI with the SoC GPU.

Shankovich - Réponse

It would had been better if it was USB type-C 3.1 with Thunderbolt 3.0 for that purpose. Thunderbolt 3.0 is 8x faster than USB 3.0 and to act like a SLI eGPU, 5Gbps isn't enough for a considerable boost, if it was Thunderbolt 3.0 it would be much more future proof. Since it's just USB 3.0, I'm not sure if Nintendo is really thinking about an eGPU, which is a pity. But I hope someone with more knowledge could say what could Nintendo actually achieve with USB 3.0 regarding an extra graphics boost, I wonder if that would be enough for 4K in the future, but it doens't look like it.

theSUBVERSIVE -

Even TB 3 ends in PCIe 3.0 4x. This is to slow fore 4K gaming too. The actual 4K Graphics needs PCIe 3.0 8x as minimum to run with more than 24 fps.

It is no eGPU in existence that can bring a low power system 4K gaming. For the Switch die CPU will be the next limiting part.

TheLOD2010 -

You'll never get any form of functional dual GPU solution through USB - both bandwidth and latency are far too bad for that to be even remotely functional. Not going to happen.

And for those of you talking about Thunderbolt 3: TB3 is an Intel-developed tech. There's zero evidence of it even being considered for implementation outside of X86 systems. Heck, it doesn't even work on AMD-based systems, and those are X86! TB3 on ARM will never happen.

Trond Aasland -

Thunderbolt is an Intel proprietary external PCIe port. Nvidia would need to develop their own proprietary external PCIe solution.

The Switch would also need extra hardware for this, mainly a couple more ICs.

But it could work since USB type C allows an extra set of data lanes to be used at a non-USB port, this is how the Switch outputs a MyDP signal (which the dock has a MyDP-HDMI converter). But currently, the Switch doesn't have supporting hardware for an external/hybrid gpu setup.

Xander Zoolander -

I don't know what its wrong with the guys befor me, but it's definitly USB 3.1 Standart with an USB-C Port.

USB-C is a standart for the port/plug, and can be provided with USB 2.0 to 3.1.

Only USB 3.1 Standart provides the feature of sending video signals over the cable, and the technical Standart USB 3.1 must be shipped with an C-Port/plug.

That make TB3 only 4 times faster, in cost of an proprietary plug and protocol.

Nintendo isn't so uneconomy and so the choice was USB, cause everybody got USB-devices.

Gordon Kracht -

Sounds like a really bad idea to be honest.

Karl Fahrman -

How do the joycons charge from the console, where are the connectors for power transfer?

Tony - Réponse

Step 17 picture 3 -> metal contacts with flatflex cable tu the joycon pcb.

TheLOD2010 -

Also step 13, third picture, is the Switch's side of it. The contacts are on the underside of the rail.

Xander Zoolander -

Is digitizer is made of glass or plastic?

Maciej Jerominek - Réponse

It is made of plastic.

Evan Noronha -

So the cooling setup goes SoC - thermal paste - copper shim - thermal paste - cold plate - thermal paste -back plate. Granted the cold plate and heatpipe is the main deal, not the backplate.

You could argue that's similar to a CPU integrated heat spreader, but those are more form fitting and sometimes soldered for better heat dissipation. Cooling setup seems like a not great design, especially as DF clocked the vent area at 52 degrees Celsius. From a mobile SoC.

tipoo - Réponse

It's actually;

SoC > thermal paste > the shield/cover around the SoC and nearby components > copper shim > thermal paste > pad >mounting bracket and copper pipe, with what looks to be a layer of material between the bracket and heatpipe; also can't tell if the bracket is brazed to the sides of the heat pipe, or if it's under the heat pipe > thermal paste > backplate.

Also keep in mind that the SoC has an internal heat spreader, with is either soldered or pasted to the chip itself. So there's even more interfaces.

The 'pad' on the heat pipe can be seen on Gamer Nexus' video here: https://youtu.be/obz5tE1mdV0?t=10m46s

I also wonder what effects that shield/cover on the SoC is going to have on the DRAM it covers when it heats up.

So there's 10+ parts on top of the silicon including the IHS and it's solder/paste, 9 if the mounting bracket is brazed to the sides of the heat pipe, 10 if the heat pipe is on top of the bracket. Keep in mind that a standard computer only has 4-5 layers on top of the silicon.

Xander Zoolander -

I think seeing the inside of a game cart would be interesting, see if the pinout is different from SD.

tipoo - Réponse

Thanks your well-detailed analysis it's possible to complete wikipedia semantic info about objects components and get this:

https://tools.wmflabs.org/reasonator/?&q... (look at "has part" section)

P.D.: more info https://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/WikiObje...

Qupro - Réponse

I'm guessing the screen cover is made of plastic and not glass?

guitrasher - Réponse

Yes, the screen cover is made from plastic.

Reid Fleishman -

What about the cartridges? Can you open one?

Philippe Morin - Réponse

hello ,

is the screen IPS or VA or TN ?

ttt ttt - Réponse

Came here to ask this as well. Display is TN or IPS?

Dirty Potter -

Definitely not TN, the viewing angles are great. But, idk if it's VA or IPS.

markjkuebel -

What are the screw dimensions? It would be nice to have a set of spare screws sitting around to replace them if they break/strip whilst opening the Switch in future.

Thomas Plummer - Réponse

Your teardown doesn't seem to include flavors of any of the components... Was this an oversight, or are you planning to update this information in the future?

erixtyminutes - Réponse

Could you guys nail down the die size for us?

tipoo - Réponse

Now let's hope that Nintendo will start replacing all the systems that shipped with dead pixels instead of telling us it's normal.

http://www.techspot.com/news/68401-ninte...

marcpgreen - Réponse

Nintendo Switch Dock Set (with a separate Switch Dock, AC adapter and HDMI cable) will cost $89.99. After seeing this video, Nintendo is really screwing over the consumer with a price like that.

marcpgreen - Réponse

No they're not, at least not versus what anyone else is charging. These types of adapters are expensive, and it's an active adapter.

Maybe they should be much cheaper, but Microsoft, Apple, etc. charge similar.

wolfpup3 -

Can you give a close up and any part number on the usb port on the switch. I would love to know if that is an off the shelf part that I could get from digikey if need be. It appears to be a midmount design that I am familiar with(Molex I think), but I cant get a clear shot of it from your pictures

Tyler Daughtry - Réponse

You can click on any of our photos and delete the .huge from the end of the URL to view it in full/original resolution (which is usually 30+ megapixels). Here's the shot of the USB port on the Switch Console motherboard. Hope it helps you find what you are looking for!

Jeff Suovanen -

Kinda want to try swapping thermal paste with some Arctic Silver or something to see if it improves dissipation at all. Not sure that would aid performance but might be worth a go. Not really sure how I'd measure any impact though... Can't exactly monitor the Chip temp.

Russell Applin - Réponse

Or perhaps with Coolaboratory liquid ultra. Check it out! It smokes Arctic Silver in the tests.

Haven Games -

I was wondering if it was possible to take apart the front of the dock and get rid of the rail that could scratch the screen. Seems like it should still be functional after completely removing it.

tophoos - Réponse

Then you risk the Switch falling over as its vertical rather than at an angle. So you get a scratched screen AND potentially destroy the USB-C connector, the most difficult part to replace.

alexatkin -

It looks like different Switches use different eMMC chips.

Yours had a Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL.

Gamer Nexus' Switch had a Samsung KLMBG2JENB-B041; seen here https://youtu.be/obz5tE1mdV0?t=9m40s

Samsung's is .2mm thicker at 1mm thick.

I'd like to see someone do a swap with a larger sized chip.

Xander Zoolander - Réponse

Update: according to a forum, the devkit switch has a 64GB chip, and people have already done mods to read and write the chip outside of the switch.

The only problem that might arise is the Samsung chip has 2bit MLC (Toshiba doesn't give that spec) on their 32GB chip in the Gamers Nexus' Switch, their largest 2bit MLC chip is 128GB, they offer a 256GB chip but that has a 3bit MLC.

There's hope for storage mods, and there's hopes for a larger storage switch.

Xander Zoolander -

Hi, the stick on Joy-Con are analog or not ? When i tried to use in x360ce it look like a d-pad ?

blaplace - Réponse

What model and screen type is the LCD? Why bother pulling it without giving us the part number or identifying marks?

Bitvar - Réponse

Can anyone find out what size the player number LEDs are that are on the joycons?

Kyle Ferguson - Réponse

As always, a great tear down iFixit! Thanks for keeping the world in the know!

Wagon Fixin - Réponse

Are the analogue sticks interchangeable? Would a stick in a spare right joycon work in a left joycon that needs a replacement stick?

Benjamin - Réponse

Was the left Joy-Con's 4-button mechanism (circuit board & chassis) the same as the right Joy-Con's? I'm planning on modding a Joy-Con with a replacement (Sega Saturn) D-Pad, so I'd love to see more detail about the D buttons, for example, popping off the rubber buttons on the Joy-Con board and see what's underneath (something you could potentially solder to?). Thanks.

Haven Games - Réponse

So how can I tell I will be buying a switch with the fix version of controllers that no longer loses connectivity?

Marlon Alucard - Réponse

Any similar speakers for replacement?

Jube - Réponse

Really need to find a replacement speaker as well. My right speaker started popping then now no sound comes out unless i put pressure on the membrane. Basically its broken now.

Mptp -

Update: My right speaker started popping and then just stopped working. I sucessfully replaced it with a New 3DS speaker

Mptp -

Is there anywhere I might be able to buy replacement parts for the switch?

Nathan Alan hansen - Réponse

suupppppppppp

diego - Réponse

suppppppppppppp

diego -

The ZL button of my left joy-con is not responding. Does anybody knows if this is something that can be fix? Or i gonna need a replacement?

marcoscrispim - Réponse

What do you use for doing X-Rays ?

Aditya Agarwal - Réponse

My right joy-con can be used on console, but it can't be charging........Orz

I tried to change left joy-con's battery to right, but either....

Have any idea can fix it?

pmanyeh - Réponse

Is there a place to order replacement parts? My Joystick is jacked up and needs replaced.

Brian Johnson - Réponse

+1

I'm just looking for the L + XL buttons ribbon cable. Where can we get replacement parts?

Rockus Ultimus - Réponse

So where excactly do you find a mate on the Joy-Con side plastic?

Dexter - Réponse

Very Cool! I want to see the graphics card next time!

Ultimate Gamer - Réponse

When does the replacement parts comes out?

xFELYNEx xFx - Réponse

Hey there, I've managed to have something jam the USB-C port and it's mushed the end of the black pin connector. How feasible is it to bring the system to a local repair shop and have them replace the port for me? Am I out of luck and will have to send it in to Nintendo for repairs?

carlos.chai - Réponse

If I tore a ribbon cable in a joy on, any ideas on where to source a replacement?

Clark Sessions - Réponse

Was it a ribbon from inside your JoyCon?

zacharywd -

Patrick Frost and John Horne were asking question about the antenna or antennas. SamitSakar wrote an article on the users complaining about the weakness of WIFI. If the wiring is incorrect which Patrick Frost alluded to then how does it get resolved. Is there only one antenna or more. For example iphone has 9 antenna. Slide 11, Researching the Broadcom/Cypress BCM4356 features “Single-stream and dual-stream IEEE 802.11ac solution with data rates up to 433.3 and 866.7 Mb/s” Hence it’s not the chip but the antenna configuration. Perhaps there should be more. Any input? All ears?

hebrwn - Réponse

Hello our son has inserted a Micro USB into the USB-C socket. Now the pins are bent and the Device cannot be loaded. Does anyone know where I can get a Nintendo USB 3.1 Type C jack to replace it or an alternative jack?

marijankruljac - Réponse

I’m looking for a replacement flatflex cable for the Left Joycon. It’s the cable that goes inside the switch. If anyone can help me locate one that would be awesome.

zacharywd - Réponse

Can anyone direct me to a place where I can find replacement MicroSD card boards?

Jake Wharton - Réponse

Can someone help me? On step 19 , there’s a flex cable coming out of the joycon where the LED is , mine is malfunctioning it doesn’t work properly , if I open the joycon and stretch the cable the led lights works normally , but when I fold it to close the joycon it stops working, I think the cable somehow is broken inside I dont know…but anyway , is there a place that I can buy only this part so I can replace it? I don’t even know the name of this cable ;(

floyd - Réponse

Any clues on the model of the IR camera? I’m interested to know how sensitive it is, the Labo shows some interesting stuff, but it makes me wonder if it’s got a high enough resolution to read QR codes made up of reflective material.

Richard Hodgson - Réponse

Does anybody know if I can replace the c-stick sensors? I dont know if im using the correct word here, but mines pretty much messed up, i have two sets of joycons and only right ones broke twice, and I might be able to fix them by exchanging it.

TehVilly - Réponse

Hey, this might be a silly question, but should I wear any safety equipment when taking apart the joy-Con? To protect the controller, not myself. Obviously disconnect the battery, but will static electricity do anything? Should I be aware of anything else? Thanks!

Isaac - Réponse

Hi I strip one of the screw of bad that even super glue did’t work. To remove the glue is use a drill (1mm) drill bit and hand turn to scrape the glue out. Anyother idea? Will epoxy work?

jonathan ambrose - Réponse

Where can I buy all of these parts featured in the video?

Matt Seibert - Réponse

How many Connector Pins are on/what kind of connector is on the Swich LCD Flex Cable

Alex Sparks - Réponse

What is screwdriver used to take off the screws on the bottom and on the joycon rail on the switch?

Branden D - Réponse

I wouldn’t knock it for the tri-wing screws. They use Philips plenty once you get in. they are meant to act as a deterrent to mildly curious children who can get their hands on a small Phillips a little too easily “speaking as a former kiddo that broke a toy or two in this way…”. i’d say good job Nintendo overall and would give a slightly higher repair-ability score. maybe an 8.5.

Alan Warrick - Réponse

my switch dont charging i have replace the chip M92T36 but nothing help

the switch dont starting

any Idea?

berlin.suratthani.imbiss - Réponse

I was wondering if the microswitch for the R button (not zr) was modular and if it required soldering to fix.

Peter P - Réponse

The upper shell (where the digitizer mounts) looks as if it can come off with about 8 more or so screws? I'm looking to replace this part due to cracking as well as replacing the digitizer and a few internal parts as well. Any tips?

kragithzedrok - Réponse

Beefy Battery? Yeah right

Jackson Peter Conway - Réponse

Could you provide instructions on how to open up the analog stick module without breaking it? Joystick drifting seems to be a recurrent problem with joycons and since they’re still pretty expensive, it would be a good plus to be able to repair or at least clean them at home.

Xnerdz - Réponse

Lacks sizes for the screws and generally leaves details out.

Zachary Hudson - Réponse

Hi Zachary, be sure you check the header at the top of this teardown! “This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo Switch, use our service manual.” We use teardowns as an entertaining, educational look inside a device not a step-by-step guide! Thanks for stopping by!

Sam Goldheart -

If the joycons started to always move forward and not let you jump in games what would need tobe fixed? just the buttons or like the whole board and for the stick wouldnt it just be the stick?

Miles Pridgeon - Réponse

Hey Miles! That sounds an awful lot like the dreaded Joy-Con drift that’s been plaguing switch owners lately. The good news is, if you head over to http://support.nintendo.com, they’ll probably be able to get them fixed up for free! If you don’t want to ship them out to Nintendo, we can sell you the joystick by itself. I’m working on the replacement guide right now, it should be ready next week. Swapping out the joystick yourself only takes about half an hour, and should fix the issues you’re having.

Taylor Dixon -

Howdy, just wanted to tell people be very very careful when removing the joycon battery clip. Those things are super cheap and flimsy. I broke one, even being gentle. After some different approaches and a digital microscope I still haven’t figured out a safe reliable way to repair one. If I ever do I’ll post it.

RebTech - Réponse

While switching out the left joy-con it was dropped the zif connector lifted from the motherboard completely intact still attached to the ribbon cable how do I reattach the connector to the motherboard?

Zeshi - Réponse

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