How to Repair the Flashing Red Light of the Zeppelin

Introduction ¶ 

How to repair the flashing red light of the Zeppelin, which occurs when you plug a device in.

Tools ¶ 

Relevant Parts ¶ 

  • 2,220 uF 16V 105°C capacitor

Procedure ¶ 

Step 1 ¶ 

  1. Disassemble the Zeppelin, by first removing the soft rubber support (fixed by tape).
  2. Remove the 4 screws that are holding the silver ipod support. (You'll need a T20 bit with a hole in the center - available on the ifixit pro kit)
  3. Remove the ribbon cable from the base. (Be careful with the connector, it need to be slide very gently !)
  4. Remove the two black covers, by sliding them gently out while pressing the release "switch" located on the back part of the black cover.
  5. You'll find 8 phillips screws, holding the speaker assembly to the silver back of the zeppelin. Carefully unscrew them, but be careful not to detach the front from the back

Step 2 ¶ 

  1. Gently separate the back from the front.
  2. Remove the earth wire attached to the power supply, as well as the main connection (two wire cable attached on the lower part of the power supply).
  3. Remove the ribbon connection from the main board (be careful with the connector, that need to be released very gently)
  4. You may now check the power supply for inflated capacitors. It is very likely that the 2200uF 16V is the one.

Step 3 ¶ 

  1. Remove the power supply connection on the top of it
  2. Remove the 4 screws that are holding back the PSU from the back shell
  3. Remove the 4 screws that are holding the pcb from the aluminum base.
  4. Change the inflated capacitor
  5. Make sure the thermal paste is still present on the semiconductor on the base.
  6. Replace the PCB on the base, and the power supply inside.

Step 4 ¶ 

  1. Plug every wire back.
  2. Check if everything looks secure inside
  3. Place back the cover and the 8 philips screws.
  4. Gently slide the covers, by making sure they are aligned on both sides (there is some rails, and the cover has to be slide into). Make sure also that you are not mixing the two covers (there are not identical, the one with the rubber protection on the led output goes on the left).
  5. Assemble gently the ribbon for the ipod dock.
  6. Fix it back with the 4 screws.
  7. Put back the rubber part.
  8. You should be ready to go !

29 commentaires

I fixed by replacing the power supply. Part ALP0050-NU25 from Profusion.

Good luck!!

isaac - Réponse

Isaac - was there any difficulty in replacing the entire PSU?

jonathanwalk -

Hi Isaac, is the power supply module a direct swap for the output connector do you need to change cables and pinouts? Kindly email me details if possible. thank you.

James Yong -

Hi, just replaced the PSU but the light turns white and nothing happens??!

Any suggestions?

best regards


Rune Christiansen -

Hi Rune,

I didn't replace the PSU but I am stuck as well with the white light - meaning firmware update mode - but the firmware does not update even though the Utility App seems to work fine.

Have you got any luck ever since ?

Thanks in advance

christianbetheuil -

Will this work on the older model as well? Not the air, the first model (with native support for iPhone 4 etc)? Im having the same problem.

christofferdvinge - Réponse

I have the same problem as Christianbetheuil and Rune Christiansen. After a power outage the zeppelin air with 30 pin adapter shows a white light and when connecting a USB cable shows a "unfinished firmware" in the B&W control app. Even after going through the motions several times, the app still says unfinished firmware and the light stays white and the Zeppelin air stays unresponsive. No way to play any music through it.

I appreciate any info on how to get it working again.



pascal - Réponse

Tried using the firmware restore utility?

Daniel Schlaug -

Mine has the same problem as pascal, tried the software updates over and over, might be the capacitor then. Where can you get them?

dan walsh -

Hi just saw I never updated my posting. I have repaired the zeppelin and exchanged the capacitors which were defective. I had to change the three largest capacitors. It has been working flawlessly for a few month now. The guide was very useful, thanx. I bought the capacitors online as well as in a local electronics shop. I did not want to wait a day after all ;-) so after ordering on line I checked out the local shop and repaired the zeppelin the same evening.

pascal -

Hi Pascal - looks like I have exactly the same problem with a solid white LED light and unable to complete a firmware update.

Are you able to share the exact details / specs of the capacitors that you had to replace? I will open mine up later but would appreciate being able to verify against your experience as I go through the process.

Shihong Tan -

Pascal, how did you get into the power supply?

I easily removed the doc arm but can’t figure out how to get the black base (with the captive threaded inserts) out without breaking the main rear case!

bluezzer -

Has anyone succesfully repaired / replaced their power supply?

I've removed mine and no bulging capacitors but a tiny intergrated circuit black chip on the rear looks like its blown/shorted out.

its miniscue though, no idea what to replace it with if I even could

anyone tried a new power supply from anywhere?

dmulheran - Réponse


I have opend the Zeppelin but cannot find any inflated capacitor nor can i find any 2,220 uF 16V 105°C capacitor

Mike - Réponse

WHAT capacitor ?? Radial - Vertical cylinder. Both the leads come out the bottom of the cylinder along the radius.

Axial- Horizontal cylinder. One lead end along the axis of the cylinder.

Disc - A Disc. Leads come out on the bottom, generally following the circumference of the disc.

dan walsh - Réponse

where is it located the 2,200 cap?

dan walsh - Réponse

Mis zeppelin dejaron de sonar y ahora cuando lo prendo suena un golpe seco y deja de sonar pero si prende normal solo no suena y es el ruido fuerte del principio, que pudiese ser??

a_sanchez_p - Réponse

Worked for me; exactly that one capacitor. I even built a capacitor ESR tester to check the others, and they were all fine.

Neville Ward - Réponse

Hey guys! (sorry girls, but I think you are not in this topic)

I have another solution. Actually I had some other signs of malfunction. Red light was flashing, but I knew that the 30 pin stick head was a little bit damaged. Sometimes it worked, sometimes not. With AUX it worked then. So I used it with AUX line in (small jack) but then it just started not to work with that also. Stopped after 10 seconds, no sound, but red light flashing.

I went to the closest store to buy the proper TORX screwers and started to do something.

Well, you know I always wanted to buy a new, AIR one, without the 30 pin bar. Bluetooth receivers are available and as I jumped into the investigation, I saw that 30pin bluetooth adapters are not compatible with the Zeppelin. But you can buy AUX Line in (small jack) bluetooth adapter for 10 bucks also, so why not use that instead?

So I removed the 30pin bar from the Zeppelin as I started to “repair” my loving Dear, and then I saw that the wires are connected just with a simple slip in connect.

Peter - Réponse

And as I saw, there are some very tiny and just gray but corrosions, I tried to test the speaker without it. And it was working fine!

I couldn’t believe it, but it seems okay. Without changing whatever. And YES! You see right. A 30 pin version, first serie of the Zeppelin can work without the iPhone holder bar.

If it will have problem again, I will have no other way than to go on but I have a feeling that my problem was a connection wreckage of the phone holding bar. I could also solve it by fixing the connection maybe but I hate leaving my phone there on the speaker and looks better without it anyway.

Hope it helps to some of you! Good luck!

Peter - Réponse

Hi, this is me again, the Zeppelin gone wrong again in 1 day. So that I followed all instruction written above. Taken out the board and took it to a mechanic. He changed the 2200 105 capacitor and another one, charged me 5 EUR (Spanish price) and was ready within 1 hour.

My first suggestion to all of you - not to be afraid to start this project. It is really nothing. I have never before disassembled a speaker but I was ready within 10 minutes. (8 minutes were the speaker cover removal) Assembly was another 4 minutes.

The Zeppelin works flawlessly since then. I felt like having some sound quality issues but maybe it was only a “there must be something” feeling, so I made a firmware update (another 20 sec) and the Zeppelin has been going fine without any problem for 3 days now. I never turn it off, only for sleeping and it still goes.

Thanks for the topic, it was a cheap solution (except the damaging of a cover which was fxcking hard to remove.

Peter - Réponse

Hola buenas tardes, tengo el mismo problema que isaac, Rune Christiansen,

cambié los condensadores y todo perfecto, pero ahora me ha dado un problema la fuente de alimentación, me podeis decir donde compraron las fuente de alimentacion?,


Necesito saber donde comprar la fuente de alimentacion. Gracias.

Daniel Fernandez - Réponse

Hello good afternoon, I have the same problem as Isaac, Rune Christiansen,

I changed the capacitors and everything was perfect, but now the power supply has given me a problem, can you tell me where they bought the power supply?


I need to know where to buy the power source. Thank you.

Daniel Fernandez - Réponse

hola de nuevo he visto en la pagina profusion que no quedan fuente de alimentacion del modelo ALP0050-NU25, pero si hay del modelo ALP0050-NU31.

es posible ponerle esta fuente en vez de la otra de 25?

Daniel Fernandez - Réponse

To Pascal, or anyone else that fixed your Zeppelin Air 30-pin, how did you get to the power supply?

I easily removed the doc arm but can’t figure out how to get the black base (with the captive threaded inserts) out without breaking the main rear case!

bluezzer - Réponse


Thanks for this article, as it became instrumental when disassembling my Zeppelin as the red LED started flashing.

In my case though, after unplugging the Zeppelin and plugging it back again it was able to play for about a minute before the red LED kicked in.

After doing the disassembly and verifying the capacitors condition (which was quite ok by the way) I started to look closer at the power supply PCB and large heat sink it is connected with. The elements directly with the radiator had thermal paste on them. I've disassembled the radiator. Instantly it became clear what might the the red LED root cause in my case. The thermal paste had no more in the right consistency and it was barely anything left of it.

Replaced the paste, put the whole thing back together. Voilà! Problem solved.



Michał Michta - Réponse

It’s worked! Thanks a lot.

Jimmy Flanagan - Réponse

I had the white light problem on my Zeppelin Air.

The problem was with three 10v 1500uf capacitors on the power board (slight ballooning on the top).

The Zeppelin Air is a bit different internally than the Zeppelin (so some of the above instructions don’t apply) but it is a bit easier to remove the power board.

Jon Hall - Réponse

I followed Jon’s instruction and fixed my Zeppelin Air with constant white light issue. I replaced the 3 10v 1500uf capacitors and then use the Recover Utility to restore its firmware and now it works perfectly again! Really appreciate your tips!

pduancn -

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