Introduction

If your Xbox One controller has LT/RT issues, the issue likely lies with the magnets. Use this guide to take the controller apart and secure the magnets so they do not move again. This guide is also useful for readers with self pressing trigger problems, since magnet adjustment may fix this issue.

Guide warnings

  • Note: Be prepared to write off your controller if this fix is attempted. There is a chance this may not work or may make the problem worse. This problem is fixed on Model 1708 controllers.
  • WARNING! The plastic frame can be melted if the flame is held too long or the flame is too hot. Hold it until it seals and remove the flame once the heatshrink tubing is sealed.
  • This procedure will void ALL WARRANTIES. Make sure you cannot take advantage of it or it is expired if you care. This controller is 17 months old.

Guide notes

  • This fix does not apply to Model 1708 controllers since it cannot fail this way. This only applies to Model 1537/1697 controllers.
  • If you attempt this fix, you may not get the alignment correct. Be prepared to replace your controller frame if this fix does not work.
  • The magnets are covered in heat-shrink tubing. Once the heatshrink is cut, the magnet will be exposed and it will need to be replaced. Be careful not to burn the plastic when sealing the new heat-shrink tubing.
  • Remove the batteries from your controller (if installed). If you do not have a TR8 screwdriver, the bit can be found in the 64-bit driver kit.

  • Remove the screw under the battery cover label. To do this, puncture a hole in the battery compartment where the photo is marked. It is located roughly in the center of the battery bay where it is marked on my controller.

  • Remove the side trim from the controller, along with the 4 TR8 screws. Set the trim and screws aside somewhere safe.

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  • With the screws removed from the back, flip the controller to the front. Remove the front plastic cover.

  • With the front plastic cover removed, remove the back shell of the controller. A Plastic pry tool can be used if it is easier.

  • Once this is done, remove the back shell.

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  • Remove the LB/RB assembly and X button cover from the controller. To do this, lift the X button cover up and both the LB/RB assembly and X button trim some come off. Use a Plastic pry tool or finger nails to remove this cover.

  • Remove the wireless sync button. Remove this button from the side. Set it aside on a bright surface to prevent loss.

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  • Before cutting the heatshrink make two alignment marks that do not cross. These marks will be used to realign the magnets later.

  • After making the alignment marks, cut the heatshrink tubing off of the trigger assembly with a Utility knife. If you need to do this to both, do one at a time.

  • Using the old heatshrink as a reference, line it up with new heatshrink tubing and cut two new pieces. Set these aside as these will be needed later.

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Correct magnet alignment is critical. Misalignment of the magnet may result in the controller pressing the LT/RT buttons without any human input. Clean as much tape residue as you can. This does not need to be 100% clean. After cutting the heatshrink tubing, align the marks made in the previous step. Before applying glue, practice how you will align it so you do not get it wrong.
  • Correct magnet alignment is critical. Misalignment of the magnet may result in the controller pressing the LT/RT buttons without any human input.

  • Clean as much tape residue as you can. This does not need to be 100% clean.

  • After cutting the heatshrink tubing, align the marks made in the previous step. Before applying glue, practice how you will align it so you do not get it wrong.

  • From the factory, these controllers use double sided tape. Remove the magnet noting the way the dimple is visble and clean as much of the glue as you can. If you cannot get it off with alcohol, a solvent like Goo Gone can be used.

  • Once the magnet(s) are reasonably clean, line the alignment marks up with the frame. Once the alignment is correct, tape the magnets to ensure a correct alignment once glued in place.

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You only have 1 shot at this. If you glue it in the wrong position, you may need a new controller frame. If you are repairing both, do one at trigger at a time. If this fix is being applied to reinstall the magnets, align them before bluing them onto the frame. This is not required if you replacing worn out factory installed double sided tape.
  • You only have 1 shot at this. If you glue it in the wrong position, you may need a new controller frame. If you are repairing both, do one at trigger at a time.

  • If this fix is being applied to reinstall the magnets, align them before bluing them onto the frame. This is not required if you replacing worn out factory installed double sided tape.

  • If the glue you use cures sooner, it may be possible to reduce the drying time.

  • After taping the magnet(s) down in the previous step, verify the alignment is correct one more time. After verifying the alignment is correct, glue the magnet(s) to the controller frame.

  • Once the magnets are glued in, let them dry for 24 hours before finishing the repair.

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  • The best lighter for this job is a Ronson Jetlite. Bic style lighters are not recommended since the flame has to be held longer, which can melt the plastic. Regardless of if you use a butane torch lighter or a butane torch, adjust the flame to the lowest possible level it will sustain a flame.

  • In a pinch, electrical tape can be used.

  • Once the magnets are glued in place and the glue is cured, seal the magnets with new heatshrink tubing. As soon as the heatshrink tube is sealed, turn your lighter off.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your controller after testing, reverse disassembly by following this guide in reverse.

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Nick

Membre depuis le 10/11/2009

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