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What would make my voltage gauge read low when battery is good

Bought a brand new battery but still my electrical gauge reads only about a 1/4 output

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13 v is it enough current for trailblazer 2013


12.6v is the optimal battery voltage. 13 -14v is the average alternator output. Depending on the load on the electrical system, anything higher than battery voltage is good voltage for a vehicle. Current is a different story. Amperes is the measurement for current.


This is ford 460 in rv. What do I look for next.


New volt reg and new rebuil alt


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Oluseun, with the engine running the gauge should measure the output of your alternator. The low voltage may be indicative of issues with your alternator. If you have one of those that shows the voltage without the engine running, then check your gauge for a bad resistor on the dash panel. I would definitely start measuring the output there, and make sure that all the ground is properly connected. Just came across this. Seems to be an issue with GM :"

#02-06-03-008D: Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Ilde, Low Generator Output - (Jul 21, 2008)

Subject: Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output

Models: 1990-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)

2003-2009 HUMMER H2, H3

2005-2009 Saab 9-7X


This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-03-008C (Section 06 -- Engine).


Any vehicle may have a low voltage display (if equipped with gauges), lights that dim at stop lights, slow cranking, no start, low generator output at idle or dim lights at idle when electrical loads are heavy at idle or under slow driving or infrequent usage conditions. These characteristics may be more noticeable with customer added electrical accessories, or with a discharged battery. These are normal operating characteristics of a vehicle electrical system and no repairs should be attempted unless a proven fault has been diagnosed.

During normal driving conditions, when engine speed is above 1000 RPM, the generator is designed to do two things:

• Supply the current necessary to operate the vehicle's originally equipped electrical devices (loads).

• Recharge/maintain the battery's state of charge.

The following factors may affect generator and battery performance:

• Non-usage of the vehicle for extended periods of time. The vehicle's computers, clocks and the like will cause the battery state of charge to drop (For example; 30 days in a parking lot and the vehicle may not start because of a dead battery or a vehicle which is driven only a short distance once a week may end up with a discharged battery to the point where the vehicle may not start). This would be considered abnormal usage of the vehicle and the normally expected result for the vehicle battery, generator and electrical systems.

• At idle, vehicle electrical loads may exceed the low speed current (amperage) output of the generator and when this happens the shortfall comes from the battery. This will result in a drop in the electrical system voltage as the battery delivers the additional electrical current to meet the demand. This is equivalent to the brown outs experienced by homes and businesses when the electrical demand is more than the supply. See Figure 1.

• Extended periods of engine idling, with high electrical loads, may result in a discharged battery. Attempting to recharge a battery by letting the engine run at idle may not be beneficial unless all electrical loads are turned "OFF".

• Increased internal generator temperatures from extended idling can also contribute to lower electrical system voltage. As the generator's internal temperature rises, the generator's output capability is reduced due to increased electrical resistance.

The following are some typical examples of electrical loads:

System Amperage Load

Rear Window Defogger 25

Electric AIR Pump 25

Heated Seats 5 Amps per seat

Headlamps (high) 20

Blower Motor (High) 20

Headlamps (Low) 15

Brake Lights 6

Windshield Wipers 6

Ignition 6

Figure 1

Depending on the vehicle application, generator current (amperage) output at engine idle speeds of 600-700 RPM can be as low as 35 percent of the full rated output. With enough electrical loads "ON", it is easy to exceed the generator current (amperage) output when the engine is at an idle of 600-700 RPM. This is a normal condition. The battery supplements for short periods of time. Items that affect the vehicle's electrical system current and voltage at idle are the number of electrical loads being used, including add-on accessories, and extended idle times. When the vehicle speed is above approximately 24 km/h (15 mph), the engine/generator RPM is high enough and the generator current (amperage) output is sufficient to supply the current (amperage) requirements of the vehicle as originally equipped and recharge the battery.

Dimming lights at idle may be considered normal for two reasons:

1. As the engine/generator speed changes, so will the current (amperage) output of the generator. As a vehicle slows, engine/generator RPM slows and the current (amperage) output of the generator may not be sufficient to supply the loads, the vehicle system voltage will drop and the lights will dim. Dimming of the lights is an indication that current is being pulled from the battery. If the battery is in a low state-of-charge (discharged condition), the driver will notice a more pronounced dimming than a vehicle with a fully charged battery.

2. When high current loads (blower, rear defogger, headlamps, cooling fan, heated seats, power seats, electric "AIR" pump, or power windows) are operating or cycled "ON", the generator's voltage regulator can delay the rise in output. This effect, usually at lower engine speeds, can take up to ten seconds to ramp up the generator output. This is done to avoid loading the engine severely. To increase current (amperage) output, additional torque is consumed by the generator. The engine computer (ECM/PCM) will ramp up engine/generator speed in small steps so engine speed variations are not noticeable to the driver.

For diagnosis of the battery and/or the generator, refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) or Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-03-002C.

Hope this helps, good luck.

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Need help on my AC


My truck battery want dead when i went to charge the battery it burn the jumping cables why eould it do this??


periodic low amp on gauge, ABS light, idle is very low (when stopped at stop sign it runs between 1-0 rpm) but no check engine light. My truck is a Mazda B4000. The battery and alternator is only one year old. Have any ideas?


Check your ground connection at the battery and the frame. The engine block and the body are also connected to the frame for ground. Make sure you check those cables too.


my gmc truck voltage indecator suddenly drop to less than 13.o v

i change battery and alternator still the sam

what should i do .


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Here is my answer for this. If you have ever bought a Battery at walmart you may have noticed that the MARINE battery much bigger same amount of cranking amps costs 74$ VS 130 for the cheapest normal lead acid battery. For the past decade, i have had multiple cars and i have noticed something that most people don't think about. I've been replacing my batteries with the MARINE battery, this is a bad idea for a car, as the battery will be great for about a week, then its going to act like its draining fast, were if you leave your car for one night it might not start. Even though you have a new marine battery. The problem is WITH the actual NEW marine battery, as your alternator is pushing out charge, the marine battery doesn't accept the same amount of charge as the speed of charge as a normal car battery, this means that when your driving at night for short periods, the marine battery will not accept the amount charge that you have used during start or for the alternator to run, it just doesn't absorb the charge as fast and this is why your battery doesn't last long and doesn't give amount very many amps. The lesson is, buy a car battery not a marine battery as the plates are thicker and absorb much less charge, making it a poor choice for a quick charge in a started running car.

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Obviously doesn't know anything about batteries. They can be wet cell, AMG which is a acid mat, and can be deep cycle---typically for marine trolling motor which is often discharged. These should typically not be used for start batteries. A marine start battery (not deep cycle) would be great as a car battery because it has heavier plates to counteract the vibration and jarring in a boat.


(1 of 2) @peterkiryluk & @Paul Tankersley Ya I've heard those arguments before but unless your starting like a full size diesel truck or an old big block in Alaska or something, odds are the Deep-Cycle Marine Battery will have plenty of Cranking Amps to start your vehicle. Also, any "short" trips in your vehicle aren't going to drain your battery enough to matter whatsoever especially because the Deep-Cycle Marine Battery is designed to be able to be run very low over and over again without damaging the cells (also a vital feature for those of us who like to use their headlights or stereo when the engine is not running or occasionally leave your dome light on over night!) plus those extra thick plates hold more of a charge for longer so I rarely needed a jump but even when I did, I didnt have to worry how many times I ran it low because it doesn't have cell memory regular car batteries do so you don't have to worry about ruining it.


(2 of 2) And in those "short trips" (all trips for that matter), the battery is mainly only used to turn the engine over and possibly when the vehicle is just idling if you have your lights on + a large stereo system or dvd players etc.. in use (most likely not in "short trips"). After it turns over, he alternator supplies plenty of juice to run any devices or headlights etc... so there is little if any draw on the battery, so this occasional draw is pretty much negligible and will remedy itself on your next trip to work (or wherever). Personally, I always use Deep-Cycle Marine Batteries in all my vehicles and have found little or no draw backs and a few real bonuses to using them.


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it is common problem on early 2000 chevys on instrument cluster / and or oil pressure sensor that make gauges go haywire ..... check this first before you panic thinking you have major prob .............

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Thats exactly whats happening to me, first it was my oil pressure sensor now its my battery guage. I replace battety and alternator??


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check your starter if low voltage .or the bearings in your motor could be going out causing high locked rotor amperage whenever on Startup that's why you can't get enough voltage to turn your motor over. A sign would be long time if out oil change. Or over heated. Try to replace the starter change oil. And check oil pump.

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Check to see if you have an external voltage regulator and it's probably bad mine was located on the neg vat terminal its called a generator voltage regulator in GM terms it was my problem

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